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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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Do the cameras still freak out with the engine off?

Another issue could be poor ignition coil earth or faulty coils. This causes a massive spike back through the 12V that can cause all sorts of haywire behaviour. Falcons for example are great for this and it trips out all the vehicle control systems. Honda's induce a spike into the crank angle circuit and causes the ecu to lose crank sync and ends up firing the wrong coil. Something like this could also freak the camera out.

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13 hours ago, Yowzer said:

Sure about that? A multimeter won't necessarily tell you if it's dropped a winding and will still read 13-14v, but the AC fluctuations can mess with switchmode supplies like the powerpack for the camera

Turning on the headlights will drop the peak voltage, leveling it out with the battery float voltage and stop the powerpack freaking out as much. A capacitor will only mask the issue.

That might be something to look at

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I found the camera will stay on but stop recording if i turn the ignition off one click and stop the engine but the camera still has power from the cigarette lighter,  

The last camera worked well for 3 years but developed problems like I am having but also SD card slot problems 

@ghostchips can you try that camera i gave you and see if it stops recording?

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22 hours ago, Yowzer said:

Do the cameras still freak out with the engine off?

Another issue could be poor ignition coil earth or faulty coils. This causes a massive spike back through the 12V that can cause all sorts of haywire behaviour. Falcons for example are great for this and it trips out all the vehicle control systems. Honda's induce a spike into the crank angle circuit and causes the ecu to lose crank sync and ends up firing the wrong coil. Something like this could also freak the camera out.

Non resistor plugs in a resistor plug engine?

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Does anyone have any experience with silicon bronze mig welding? Was thinking about having a go at it as I'm going to cut the guards off the well side of my isuzu ute to weld on ones off a mu as they have a bigger flare, only thing is that a 5kg roll is $440,

XEhVvMY.jpg

 

pyLSvYE.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Cut it over size and joggle a lip to go inside the wellside skin. Then PU adhesive it in with a handful of plug welds. 

I assume you want to use the sil bronze to keep the heat down?

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Just use solid 0.6 wire. lots of tacks, move around a heap, short welds to link tacks, lots of gentle hammering as the welds cool. What are you going to do about the fuel flap? 

I reckon that could look pretty cool. Good on ya.

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On 27/08/2019 at 09:09, SOHC said:

@ghostchips can you try that camera i gave you and see if it stops recording?

Ok, i report back that it works fine if you turn off the motion sensor.  Otherwise it takes bumps in the road or driving into the sun & doing a Uturn to get it to start recording again.

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Drum Brakes - why do I keep having to bleed the damn things?

Where is the air getting in - it seems to be at the wheel cylinders but hard to be sure.........

 

 

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I had much the same problem, I eventually installed new cylinders and have not been through the same issues, still unsure as to exactly why.

Bore was in good condition, new seals and still leaked. Honed to be sure and new seals installed, leaked again, gave up and brought new cylinders.

 

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Next time I have to work on them I'll pull the rear cylinders (fronts seemed fine this time, clamped the hose to the diff and they were all good) and have a look inside them. M/C is a bugger to get out so less keen on dealing with that.

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42 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Next time I have to work on them I'll pull the rear cylinders (fronts seemed fine this time, clamped the hose to the diff and they were all good) and have a look inside them. M/C is a bugger to get out so less keen on dealing with that.

Are they repro parts? Repro castings are/were porous

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On 30/08/2019 at 12:28, 00quattro00 said:

Does anyone have any experience with silicon bronze mig welding? Was thinking about having a go at it as I'm going to cut the guards off the well side of my isuzu ute to weld on ones off a mu as they have a bigger flare, only thing is that a 5kg roll is $440,

XEhVvMY.jpg

 

pyLSvYE.jpg

 

 

 

 

I got a 3 kg roll for about $50 of bronze wire, you have to use straight argon with it,

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On 01/09/2019 at 07:46, moparmuppet said:

Just use solid 0.6 wire. lots of tacks, move around a heap, short welds to link tacks, lots of gentle hammering as the welds cool. What are you going to do about the fuel flap? 

I reckon that could look pretty cool. Good on ya.

Was going to see if I could extend the filler hose other wise it will have to be filled in and moved to the ute position 

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4 minutes ago, SOHC said:

I got a 3 kg roll for about $50 of bronze wire, you have to use straight argon with it,

Yea know about needing argon. Where did you get it from?

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5 minutes ago, 00quattro00 said:

Yea know about needing argon. Where did you get it from?

I got it from Kedall welding supply in south auckland, I think they are gone now, I welded up a cracked bell housing and an engine block with it, I got the wire for welding bronze castings together but it was a different color  

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1 hour ago, tortron said:

Are they repro parts? Repro castings are/were porous

Not that I know of, Probably original, I haven't changed them in the 20 years I've owned it.

IIRC I did swap the M/C with a spare that had been sleeved in brass way back when.

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