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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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I had a triumph PI  someone had brazed in a T into one of the pressure lines and then brazed in a return to the tank on the pump to bleed off pressure

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1 hour ago, h4nd said:

Does PC related tech crap go here?

As far as OS goes, this thread is pretty PC

  • Haha 2

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Just had to replace a frost plug that is only two years old and under 3000 miles because it had rotted out and of course it was between the gearbox and engine.

Can someone educate me on why this may have happened? Engine was rebuilt at the time but for some reason I cannot recall now this particular plug wasn't a brass one, maybe availability of that size at the time but I imagine it still shouldn't rot that quick.  

 

 

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Coolant was excellent and the owner said he had never topped it up, radiator was recored and engine was stripped and cleaned although I had to use old water pump as none were available, everywhere I can see in the system is still clean. No chance of mixing A/F as I buy it per car, an expensive way of doing it but it avoids possible mixing/wrong coolant added.It is a HC Viva.

Luckily the leak started the day it needed a WOF because it is vintage car club car and were it to drop one on a rally I quickly get a bad name.

Next service I think I'll smash out an easier to remove one just to check how its looking, can't think of anything else I can do.

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Electrolysis - brass plug should fix that.

Cavitation - a cavity behind the plug creating air bubbles, is the plug in deep enough? 

Coolant mix (but I doubt it) - no more than 50/50 mix, 30-40% antifreeze is best. Too much af to water can be acidic.

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can someone point me where I could get some templates to print off to make pie cuts in 4" tube to make bends?

I cannot think of a way to do it as I only have grinders no way to clamp it at a set angle

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NZ pie cuts on Facebook do kits of precut bends ready to weld for not bad prices.

Saves a lot of mucking around cutting

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Ended up cutting a strip of paper that fitted around the pipe then fold it in half and cut tapering angles on it, worked well, It was confusing with all the talk about degrees and stuff that was unnecessary

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I have a cheapish UniT clip on multimeter, which also does dc down to ~3mA. Holy shit this makes finding current leaks easy.

Neighbour was getting a soggy battery. instead of all that undoing and inline metering with the other multimeter terminals, it was just:

  • set to DC 2A scale
  • hold near wire(s) to reset/calibrate for the moon's magnetic field
  • clip around wires(s). 105mA

5 minutes to check all the wires on a 24V system.

--wrong link--

Added advantage, you don't then forget to put your probes back in the usual meter terminals, to it doesn't blow up the next time you measure a battery /mains.

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You can also loop your test wire through the clamp to increase the reading if your meter does not go low enough.

Eg loop it 10 times through the clamp to move the decimal place by 1

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On 07/08/2019 at 10:41, h4nd said:

I have a cheapish UniT clip on multimeter, which also does dc down to ~3mA. Holy shit this makes finding current leaks easy.

Neighbour was getting a soggy battery. instead of all that undoing and inline metering with the other multimeter terminals, it was just:

  • set to DC 2A scale
  • hold near wire(s) to reset/calibrate for the moon's magnetic field
  • clip around wires(s). 105mA

5 minutes to check all the wires on a 24V system.

$35 https://www.banggood.com/UNI-T-UT202A-Handheld-Digital-LCD-DC-AC-Voltage-Current-Ohm-Tester-Clamp-Meter-Multimeter-p-1042321.html

Added advantage, you don't then forget to put your probes back in the usual meter terminals, to it doesn't blow up the next time you measure a battery /mains.

The one you linked is AC current only.

 

I also have the DC one, it's an awesome little toy. (UT210E)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32956426086.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3fe74c4du2XSnc

Except that listing only cost me $49 at the time.

Only thing that you need to be careful of with the DC measurements is that the Earth's magnetic field/anything steel will interfere with the reading if you move it after you hit the zero button.

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Machine them out and fit new ones?

 

Or heat will probably do it, the wheels are alloy right. You could also use ammonium aluminium sulfate (alum at bin Inn) it will dissolve steel but should leave aluminium alone

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5 hours ago, kicker said:

How hard would it be to remove rusted wheel nut inserts?

Y7aGDbZ.jpg

In my experience they would still pop out fairly trouble free.  Hopefully the surface underneath is OK enough to accept a new insert.  

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