moparmuppet

Minis were always bad at earth wires not earthing. They would cook the throttle cable and choke cable using them as earth returns. I know you said you had cleaned them but there will be probably 2 of them and the one from the engine subframe to the bellhousing gets forgotten. A good check is to use your jumper lead from the body of the starter motor to the battery earth or a known good subframe earth. High resistance will cause lower cranking speed, voltage drop and heat. I assume Moke battery is under rear seat?

Disembarking the SS Stalag on Saturday night. I will see how I go with finding something oldschool enough to drive if I am feeling alive enough. Would be nice to meet that @avengertiger weirdo since he is almost a neighbor. Time to put a name to a face of some of the other reprobates as well. I need to stop being such a hermit.

Dunno about jet boat hulls but a normal hull has a cruising speed. you can tip double the juice down its gob and get 1/2 knot more speed. also, the pleasure boat motor will probably have different cams, fuel pumps, injectors etc. as well as turbo. I have seen same series of motor in pleasure boat and Genset application. 60l sump and 50 hr oil changes, double the horsepower, 40% duty, vs 150L sump and 750 hr oil changes making 1/2 the power at 100% duty cycle. Apples aint apples. Just filled the day tank now, 9500L for 24 hrs on the 2 stroke diesel V8. What do you think about that greta

Thanks to @sheepers in the random stuff you have done thread for above. What media are you peeps using and where do you buy it please and thank you.

Moderators 6.9k Local Area: Auckland Popular Post Posted May 14, 2020 made some mods to my sandblaster and its fucking cash. so the old venturi suction sandblaster feed is a bit shit what with sand/media being really heavy and all. you need to run the biggest nozzle to get enough air flow to raise the sand and then there isnt enough velocity at the nozzle to really do fuck all once you do raise the sand up from the bottom. so i made some mods to mine to effectively run a "total loss" sand system. it works mint. so the sand sits in the funnel at the top and gravity feeds the handpiece. i can now run the smallest nozzle and the velocity is good so it removes rust/paint/crud quickly and really well. the funnel full of sand lasts ages because you only need the small nozzle. I've cantilevered the cabinet out off the bench so i can pull the bung and drain the media into the bucket, then just tip it into the funnel again. fuckin too easy. i could run the thing without the bung probably, haven't tried yet. visabality is good too with the vacuum stuffed in the side. the whole things is a win in my book. 2020-05-14_06-16-08 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-05-14_06-15-59 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-05-14_06-15-51 by sheepers, on Flickr You, Geophy, azzurro and 22 others 24 1 × Quote my MS51 and the ongoing saga. discuss the saga. my 1UZ RA28 of daily usage discuss the V8 celica. my 1JZ RA23 celica of dusty storage. discuss the 1JZ celica. my 2TG TA23 celica discuss this

Funny thing was running really good until Easter when I had a breakdown due to the float getting a hole and sinking and flooding it. Have replaced float and made sure the level is to the factory specs. Ever since then has had this issue. Sounds to me like it was fine until the carbie shit itself so thats where I would be looking. Is the car idling the same with idle mixture screws at 0.5, 1 and 1.5 turns open? Tweaking them should make a difference to idle. How old is the fuel? A bit of condensation in the tank , water sitting in a main jet or porting? A litre of meths in the fuel tank for this. Throw some of NPDs finest 100+ in it. This cleared up issues with our Caddy without pulling anything apart. Good luck.

A 13b Hunter?

I used to own this a few years ago but it was blue then and only 2 wheel drive.

guess who will be working for the man. Sailing tomorrow night. FML.

Mum is going to bid on that for me at some point, can't log on from here. Pining for some ringading in my life and hoping it sells for what little I can afford since the listing is hidden under parts and accessories.

Sorry Sunbeam. Glacial internet at sea. I clicked the discuss link but the satellite said no

@Truenotch and @Archetype are who you need to holler at for that.

Looking good. What is the brand of epoxy primer you are brushing on? Looks plenty fine for underneath and no messy overspray is a win. Thanks.Vaughan

Link for the rubber boots for your door - pillar wiring please and thanks.

School me please. Say a car is bought into NZ and regoed as for instance, 289 V8 power. On inspection of build plate it was a 6 cyld poverty pack with front disks optioned. Obviously it was repowered before entry but what do we know about springs, other driveline components (swaybar sizes, diff and rear brake sizing) being uprated to V8 specs. Should this be picked up on entry check? Should the car require a cert as driveline doesn't match decoded data plate? Does the owner just run with it? Thanks in advance, the Muppet

Not me, all at sea. Mrs is taking her 59 Caddy limo if things line up

I'm at sea. Buy me some totally pooed shit I don't need and I will sort you out later. chur

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/listing/2776488870?rsqid=f09e871ad93b4dd18470e021c7e3dd02-001&bof=kbzupWti turnerschch are selling 10 x 2013ish postie bikes at the moment. All reg/wof by the looks, around 50000kms, Bidding is $500-800 , finishing thursday. I've got nothing suitable for this and way too far out to know if I will be home, but these are cool roads. The drop from the top of Mongatapu into matai valley in Nelson might be gnarley, all the more reason to have little bikes that you can have both feet on the deck with.

Gidday Yowzer. I just got a hoist, new, single phase. 2.2kW,( 4200kg) so about 3 times the size of the tyre machine motor . I understand there will be a bit of torque loss with a VFD converter but I am hoping it takes less ergs to turn a tyre than to lift a yank tank. They did build this machine as 230V 1 ph but who knows what gearing differences to achieve it etc. Bodging it myself with a motor from under someones bench would probably end up with a sub-optimal result so if I went single phase it would need to be as per factory, especially with your input there. kinda has me leaning toward VFD. Cheers

Cheers @Adoom That plane must be getting low on fuel. If it runs out it will be stuck up there forever. If it turns up I would be keen on your review of it (Mauser lathe right?) Just seen this on T.M. but it sure seems arse about face with the wiring. https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2725788388 230 1 phase to the motor and converter out the other side? I just want a VFD with a PDL plug on the output I would think. Do you have a link to the VFD you allegedly bought? Thanks for clearing some of the muddle up. Seems like if I am rated 230V Delta it shouldnt be too hard. (easier than getting a single phase and making it reverse. Gonna email the agents as well though. Nothing like doing it once, poorly eh?

Thanks @vk327 @drftnmazI was thinking about all the control side and wanting to reverse the motor too, thinking it might have been in the too hard basket with single phase. I will ring the old agents and see if they have any info. You mention star, most of these 3 phase tyre machines are 2 speed turntables and assume the first 1/2 press of the pedal runs star, a full press will go delta so I am guessing that means the motor will be happy running star all day without overheating. Drftnmaz. Looking at your motor plate it is 220V on delta and 380 on star? not the other way round as you mention at the top of your reply? Does that mean it is rated for 3 x 220v in Delta Are your machines running 220 or 380? Hooked up star or delta? Do the 220V x 1 input VSDs output 3 x 220v or 3 x 380v? Just trying to get my head around it all. I will be home mid weekend and will look at the motor plate. Cheers, Vaughan.

Who are the clever electrical boffins on here? There was a tyre machine topic 3 years ago but looks like the O.P. has left our fine company. I have an 2nd hand 3 phase tyre machine on the way and a single phase supply. Can anyone school me on 230V single phase to 3 ph 400V thingeys and terminology. The 3 phase motor is 0.75 kW. I have 230v 15Amps available. For a tyre machine that you would want to start and stop instantly ( and reverse on its rotary switch) I guess I want a frequency converter? not a VSD? Guess they are cheaper too? Or use a VSD and make the starting and stopping ramps as vertical as allowed? What is the recomended way of sizing the units for fairly high load instant running applications like the tyre machine? @00quattro00 does Mum still work for ABB? I also have a work card that worked bloody well last time I bought at IDEAL electrical. Depending on the neds I figure a brand name sourced from this once-great nation will be a better bet than one from the buttplug builders. As you can see I know nothing. School me please. Hugs, Vaughan.

Hey @Valiant. Nooice car. I chased high temps in my 440 for quite a while. Have a 4 core copper radiator, similar cam etc to you. 3.73 gearing in a 8.8" Changed to a MrGasket thermostat that failed after 3 heat cycles(Hint, read the Fkn review BEFORE you buy, lad). Fixed it now I reckon, 10 mins idling in Park in Nelsons glorious midday summer sun OK. ( twin china fans.) Biggest gains. Go to www.Flowkoolerwaterpumps.com for one of their waterpumps at about $120 USD, made for bigger flow at reduced R.P.M. and a proper RobertShaw branded balanced thermostat from the same place.(370 series? Don't quote me on that) These balanced thermostats are more of a "sleeve style than a "poppet" type and on my pump housing at least they kinda seal on a second part of the housing 3/4" down with the sleeve part. they circulate the water right round the block when warming up instead of the water just running round and round the bypass. Thus no hot-spots at the back of the block. they were designed for when the big 4-5 tonne motorhomes came out with 440s to aid cooling when lugging up hills etc. A high volume water pump can actually push enough water that a normal poppet thermostat will struggle to open against the pressure, hence the balanced thermostat needing fitted with the pump as a pair. These 2 things, fitted together transformed it. No more anxious coming up to the lights, how far will the needle climb malarkey. Good luck.

Good stuff @Mof . So much of this will help me out soon. I have a broken dream in my shed. What fixings were you using between the wood and cladding? Nails or just special glue. What about fixing the wall and roof linings? I heard treated wood reacts with the alloy. Did you cut down your own wood from clears? Any link to the rules on venting a gas fridge as mentioned. I haven't succeeded with Dr Google. Thanks for spending the time with blogging this.

@ValiantHi Pete. It goes like this. Chinese 5.5 hp Honda. Pump is a Hi/Low unit, means quick ram until the load comes on, then gets slower but grunty. Motor, pump and ram specced as a unit. The v/v is a logsplitter v/v, it latches on in the return stroke while you grab another ring. Where you stand you are in right close to the ram and the v/v. A bit of table on the far side. As photos show, it will split a 450mm round with 1 hit. I grab the far bit, roll it sideways onto the table, the 1/2 on my side gets put on the table to my right. grab the other bit against the guts and roll it 1/8 turn after every split, Wood falls onto the elevator (run off the return hyds, can be removed) The stroke required to ping a bit off is around 200mm as seen. The pump doesnt kick into low for this sort of stuff so a cycle every 2 secs is no sweat. Photo shows where the head is when the average piece splits, barely driven the head depth. You can see how the Angle iron that the wood is supported against is the secret to the whole thing, allowing the wood to "hinge"on it and ping off. The beam that it sits on is the oil tank, holds 20l. Magnet bung at towball end with filler and sightglass, pump sucks from other end via a screw-on filter. Can be moved with a small 4 wheeler. As can be seen by the last photo, it doesn't want for power, cutting wood in 1/2 across the grain. Cheers to @scooters for doing the pics, Im on dial-up and my cellphone has a steam valve on the side of it coz oldschool.