Ranter

(Mine is 400113 and for years I thought it weighed as much as a Falcon at 1665kg lol) 1665kg is Gross weight (kerb weight is 1230/1325kg) I'm guessing the 2865 is combined towing or load or max weight?? The others - don't know guessing axle loads

This is of zero help but have seen an issue with a petrol version that was impossible to recreate/find and as such the workshop repairing it replaced everything. It ended up being wiring running under the drivers seat being damaged, have no idea if the diesel version has important wiring under there. Another thing is with the 90's Toyota diesel vans I send the computer away to be checked and or repaired before I do anything when they won't start, it is becoming an issue with them now so easier and quicker to rule that out first.

Yeah the leaking fuel doesn't need a manifold to ignite it, one of my Starions lit up in about 5 seconds from leaking injector seals which surprised me somewhat as a long time Mitsi owner and not new to the fuel leaks after sitting for some time. I haven't had a 12v in over twenty years but I thought there was a Mirage inlet manifold that matched the 12v Dash engines? (I had to four extra inlet valves on a switch for no reason other than who else can switch off valves lol)

Assuming the two man method is the British car method, pedal down close bleeder, pedal up open again? I think some models had some tie up with the ride height hydraulics? Cannot remember, another thing although unlikely is if there is adjustment possible on the pedal that someone has fucked with. I admit I've given up a few times on some British stuff years ago and had them vacuum bleed at local specialist.

If fuel delivery issue remove the injectors and go buy a bottle of injector cleaner, leave the injectors soaking in the cleaner overnight and it'll start when refitted. I can't remember literally anything else about those engines but have done that a heap of times.

I usually watch them through the camera, the most interesting bit is usually how fucking massive the parking on the ship is. 8-10 levels of the biggest car park ever. And if the battery has been flat that's all you'll get, or sometimes hours of idling lol.

Light stays on, doesn't sound like the problem because usually they just won't start. Normally if it is the fault you can just hard wire the plug to immobiliser and it solves it, if it doesn't you don't want to know what Hyundai want for a new module and keys programmed.

Have you tried both keys? Next time it doesn't prime check for security light on dash. Quite common for Hyundai security system to play up basically the main reason the older ones won't start that I've seen.

Used to be under Blenheim rd bridge, also used to get the 20 pinger skims. I doubt he'll be able to do a block though. Mace is near Shands road now isn't it? Used them to clean stuff a fair bit. Edit: I remember Flemming hates cleaning things but he is a good stick so you may convince him.

The Bluebird was used for gymkhana hence the note. Anyway the MGB next to it (same owners) was in work last week and it was mildly amusing informing the Police officer owner that the internet thought he was a salty old munter.

I highly doubt Rock Auto parts will be compliant despite $20 Silverline pads being ok unless they have brand names sold here. They may have changed things it has been a while since I was replacing quality pads with cheap rubbish because of rules but where you got them was more important than what you got. If that Mitsi has the front calipers with the two plates wedging the pads in I'd swap them for later ones because I hate them and they confuse me.

Have fitted what I guess is a French ducellier distributor from I think a Talbot which is the only one I know that is a direct replacement, don't know what other vehicles had them but I think Landrovers did and late Hillman/Chrysler I assume after Talbot tie up. Not Japanese but still not Lucas.

Oh I should have done bearings twelve times on that Cruiser haha I've never done bearings because they were needed, just people reading internet and getting them done for piece of mind or preventive maintenance. Also want to see bulletin, some of the high country stuff is running all day but very little mileage and I've never needed to do them either, front end rebuilds every six months though.

Yep you could chuck an aftermarket one on to double check pressure, the last one I did didn't make the gauge read any better. The one I service with 1,200,000kms takes a while to build pressure after a service, 5-10 seconds of looking underneath for the leak.

1hz don't usually need the bearings just the turbo ones but yeah just normal ones will be fine.

Yeah aftermarket ecu required for mpi. I would put factory manifold back on (make sure injectors don't leak) fit an tc05 exhaust to the 06 front housing and boost it up until it won't let you go any higher, on mine around 14psi. Then if further modifications are required go to mpi, vr4 pistons and modern turbo.

Will probably need mpi and a modern turbocharger for 200hp. A NZ new 85.5 on Euro spec Starion was the last of them and has 177bhp (132kw) with intercooler and TC06 turbo and a 12 valve version has a claimed 200hp but they're too rare to find or modify, after that twin cam took over. The usual Sigma/Cordia/Starion import engine will have 110kw, redline 6k.

From a Starion which have gauges, probably had a digital dash though but still not a warning light sender they are just a switch. I'd take the gauge and sender unit to a instrument specialist to make them work together or go to Mitsubishi and buy the correct sender for your car or go aftermarket.

I'd be weary of that transmission one as those Mazdas do give trans trouble.

Coolant was excellent and the owner said he had never topped it up, radiator was recored and engine was stripped and cleaned although I had to use old water pump as none were available, everywhere I can see in the system is still clean. No chance of mixing A/F as I buy it per car, an expensive way of doing it but it avoids possible mixing/wrong coolant added.It is a HC Viva. Luckily the leak started the day it needed a WOF because it is vintage car club car and were it to drop one on a rally I quickly get a bad name. Next service I think I'll smash out an easier to remove one just to check how its looking, can't think of anything else I can do.

Just had to replace a frost plug that is only two years old and under 3000 miles because it had rotted out and of course it was between the gearbox and engine. Can someone educate me on why this may have happened? Engine was rebuilt at the time but for some reason I cannot recall now this particular plug wasn't a brass one, maybe availability of that size at the time but I imagine it still shouldn't rot that quick.

I'm not quite sure what you have there, are they hydraulic and you want adjustable ones? Or just more adjustment? If hydraulic to manual you can swap complete rocker arms over, you might want to line bore that on a new engine though. (but you'd get away with it) Not sure about rocker angles and aftermarket cam though.

Sent that this morning. Hope it solves your issue.

Yeah I can do that, pm me an address and I'll get it away today or tomorrow. Pretty sure I can handle postage on this one. Have you tried the Tridon part? Are the American 4G54's using the same part as our engines? (no reason they wouldn't) Also pretty sure diesel Pajeros use the same part and are/were available new from Mitsubishi, I'll check local availability if I get out today.

Are you using a factory guage and sender unit? Or are the sender unit and guage an aftermarket pair? Are you checking at idle? Mitsi's don't do much pressure warm at idle. Can't remember Lancers having a pressure guage but it has been a long time since I had one. I'll could probably remove and send you a Starion 4g63 one but the engine has been sitting for 15 years so who knows if it still works.