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bonkas

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About bonkas

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  • Birthday 26/10/1986

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  1. bonkas

    DIY Rev Limiter

    Thread dredge... Not sure if your still around @Benno - How far along did you get with this? was it ever completed?
  2. It's a non-ballast coil, there is also no ballast resistor in my setup.
  3. What is the go with Hall Effect or Magnetic Pickup distributors? It seems you cant run the high output transistor type coils (~0.5ohm primary Bosch HEC715/716 or MEC717/718 for example) but should run the medium output type type (Bosch MEC723 ~1.1ohm primary) as you will burn out the switching module. Reason I ask is I have put a GT40 coil on my electronic dizzy but getting intermittent spark - Have managed to get it started twice and flattenned the battery trying, Installing the old coil restores spark. Do I need a MEC transistor type coil as replacement? I am trying to get rid of e
  4. What is the go with Hall Effect or Magnetic Pickup distributors? It seems you cant run the high output transistor type coils (~0.5ohm primary Bosch HEC715/716 or MEC717/718 for example) but should run the medium output type type (Bosch MEC723 ~1.1ohm primary) as you will burn out the switching module. Reason I ask is I have put a GT40 coil on my electronic dizzy but getting intermittent spark - Have managed to get it started twice and flattenned the battery trying, Installing the old coil restores spark. Do I need a MEC transistor type coil as replacement? I am trying to get rid of e
  5. @governorsam Keen on Amiga if it's for sale. I have had many old machines over the years, thinking of trying to track some old machines down to relive my childhood. I current have a fully working C64, A C64 with suspected faulty memory and a Amiga1200.
  6. Compression test came out with 195psi in Cylinder #1 (Suspected no issues) and 200psi on Cylinder #2 (Suspected issues). So no compression issues there... Re-did valve lash, some were a bit tight and some were a tad loose, gave it a tickle anyway but have still not been able to get rid of the tapping and rattling in the top end, may just have to live with it, or maybe convert back to hydraulic lifters as I am not revving the thing to the moon like I originally envisioned... Valve stems all looking good. Few minor things to tidy up: Front engine covers to keep the grime out
  7. Carbs all tuned and within 1% of the tuners target Air/Fuel Ratio. After some final tests we noticed a very noisy valve and cylinder #2 appears to be down on compression. Will be doing a compression test this weekend but may not be looking very good... here we go again....
  8. Have gone from 38mm to 36mm Venturi's/Chokes - This has ironed out the fuel curve but now a bit rich. Was a mission to get the old ones out as someone had over tightened the locking screws and mis-shaped the venturi and carb housing, had to re hone it for the new venturi to fit back in. Going in this afternoon to swap my main jets and re-check air/fuels and get the carbs balanced.
  9. Dunno 'bout drag day @Roman but will definitely be at 2020 nats! The bucking misfiring feeling when cruising has put me off driving it too far. This was not an issue before they dicked with my distributor so I suspect it's timing related. It does seem quick but the slow gearbox and my slow brain make for some very slow gear changes and the gears run out fast haha. Also @Roman the voltage seems to have settled down to about 13.9-14.4v now, not sure what was going on, flat battery doing wierd stuff?
  10. Small update again. Got some dyno time in to get these carbs sorted. I made ~170HP a 5000rpm, I couldn't go higher due to being too lean, tuner seems to think changing from 38 to 36 chokes/venturi's should fix this, Have these ordered and will see. For some reason they also reversed the distributor modifications I had so I could reach the peak timing without vacuum advance... I am now getting surging and bucking (feels like a really bad misfire) when cruising at 100k - You guy got any ideas? Fuel? Timing? The timing is 10 degrees static and 32 full advance at 3krpm.
  11. Some info I have dug up from the manual for the vehicle.
  12. Tested the Tridon part - Still giving a wonky gauge. Tested the sender on another vehicle of same make/model - Shows ~10-20 ohms when switched off which is the correct behavior according to the manual. @RanterGrabbed another brand new sender unit off the shelf which was listed as the correct part for my make/model of vehicle.. surprise surprise, same part number as what I already have and... open circuit. I tested the sender unit off a V8 and it is showing ~10 ohms also at 0 PSI also so might source one of these. Something like this should work a treat. https://www.superche
  13. @Ranter - Was this off a vehicle with a gauge or just a warning light? I am also getting open circuit with your sender unit and a wonky gauge. Strange as the gauge is behaving as it should when grounded or left open... I now have a TPS005 which is also showing open circuit, have yet to install in the vehicle.
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