Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

[shizzl]

1 hour ago, JustHarry said:

What actually happens @shizzl by the first post you did it sounds like motor runs.

But when put in gear and try to drive the drive line binds up. Does the motor stall like it's being jammed too? 

Surely if it's in gear with your foot on the clutch and it still runs there should be nothing wrong with the clutch arrangement

Yes correct. 
but I have noticed that the clutch fork has no free play now.

 

it will all be coming out of the car in the next week or so.

 

any video will just show it running, wheel start to move then it all stalls out 

[Mof]

1 hour ago, shizzl said:

Yes correct. 
but I have noticed that the clutch fork has no free play now.

 

it will all be coming out of the car in the next week or so.

 

any video will just show it running, wheel start to move then it all stalls out 

Probably normal 

Go on give us a video 

Have you tried giving it more throttle? 

[ajg193]

Not just a case of no fuel pressure so it just dies the moment you load it up?

[sentra]

what is the best tool for crimping those narva insulated terminals?

i think ive seen a hexagon one that crimps on all sides like a hose crimping machine?

[datlow]

We get these from DK but theyre legit

holds the bit in place too

 

[sentra]

cheeers

did you take that pic special?

[tortron]

I have something similar from aliexpress

They appear to be a mirror copy of something because you have to use it in what feels like the wrong direction 

[Nominal]

I got one of these sets a couple of years back from Amazon, has the same sort of crimp head as Datlow's

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Interchangeable-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0195VXA10

 

[cletus]

If you want to make them look neater - I remove the plastic insulation bit, crimp them, then put heat shrink on instead to insulate it 

[datlow]

33 minutes ago, sentra said:

cheeers

did you take that pic special?

I am special

/not very busy

 

I reckon any that have the colour coding should be sweet

[yoeddynz]

Oh yeah whilst on the subject of looking after your tools.. 

Always make sure to drain your compressor regularly.. 

Whoops.. My bad. 

Has anyone ever put tank seal in there compressor tank to stave off/fix corrosion? I'm thinking I could pour some into mine on a hot day and seal what I'm now picturing is a moonscape of a tank floor. 

[JustHarry]

1 hour ago, cletus said:

If you want to make them look neater - I remove the plastic insulation bit, crimp them, then put heat shrink on instead to insulate it 

This.

Those ratchet ones really need to be able to fold or pinch the metal . With the plastic in place this doesnt work that well 

Then if you've taken it off might aswell drop a bit of solder on it so it will never pull out

[Bling]

2 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Oh yeah whilst on the subject of looking after your tools.. 

Always make sure to drain your compressor regularly.. 

 

Has anyone ever put tank seal in there compressor tank to stave off/fix corrosion? I'm thinking I could pour some into mine on a hot day and seal what I'm now picturing is a moonscape of a tank floor. 

I had similar problems with my compressor, although its a big unit it had the most pathetic valve on the bottom that gummed up really fast. Replaced with elbow and 1/2" gas ball valve, ear muffs on job to drain that now. 

As for the coating, i'd be surprised if it did anything but fall to bits and clog your valve. Even when they do fuel tanks after acid dipping I think it's not THAT reliable. I just leave mine empty with valve open when not in use and hope for the best.

[NickJ]

2 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Oh yeah whilst on the subject of looking after your tools.. 

Always make sure to drain your compressor regularly.. 

Whoops.. My bad. 

Has anyone ever put tank seal in there compressor tank to stave off/fix corrosion? I'm thinking I could pour some into mine on a hot day and seal what I'm now picturing is a moonscape of a tank floor. 

Bit of a Barry fix innit?

There is corrosion allowance in the tank design based on whatever standard it is built to, so not really a big issue if you keep on top of draining and retire the tank when expired as written in the manual.....

 

[ThePog]

4 hours ago, JustHarry said:

This.

Those ratchet ones really need to be able to fold or pinch the metal . With the plastic in place this doesnt work that well 

Then if you've taken it off might aswell drop a bit of solder on it so it will never pull out

I have a ratchet set for plastic covered ones and a seperate smaller set that forms the rollover but works for standard ones with the plack cut off real sweet.

[ThePog]

Also has anyone made a steam engine out of a 2 stroke or a Briggs?

Kinda keen to build a steam genset.

[igor]

Please do it. 

[ThePog]

I cant really see a valid reason not to...

[JustHarry]

I guess it's just timing to get it working properly. 

Only thing you might struggle with it getting ththe valves to seal the wring way .

 

1 hour ago, ThePog said:

Also has anyone made a steam engine out of a 2 stroke or a Briggs?

Kinda keen to build a steam genset.

 

[ThePog]

12 minutes ago, JustHarry said:

I guess it's just timing to get it working properly. 

Only thing you might struggle with it getting ththe valves to seal the wring way .

 

 

Apparently you use the spark hole to get the steam in, then on a 4 stroke double up the exhaust lobe so it opens every upstroke. That way the valves still work the same altho the inlet is closed all the time.

2 stroke might be easier, you can just drill through the cylinder wall at bdc to make exhaust ports.

I think both would need some sort of timed inlet for the steam, i saw one that had a wooden disc that hit a valve to let it in, you indexed the disc to change timing.