Threeonthetree Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 I'm looking at purchasing an older van. Trouble is, it's currently registered as a non-commercial ambulance. I know that it was an ambulance from new until the late eighties, but it's been a private use vehicle ever since. It currently has five months of 'ambulance' rego left on it. I don't want to get stung for using the incorrect registration for the purpose of the vehicle. So I'm going to put it into the correct classification (becomes a classic next year anyway). My question is, when I change the registration classification from the current 'non-commercial ambulance' to a private vehicle, will the five months of registration that are currently on there be transferred to the new classification? Or will I have to pay from the date I change it? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 The should refund you the balance and then charge you for the new licencing fee. I'm guessing ambo rego is dirt cheap so don't expect to get much back hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Does the van have a COF or WOF sticker? If it has a COF then you can go get a WOF and the guy issueing the wof will make it a private vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 I'm pretty sure when you change the class of rego, they can't take back the license period it already has, so you'll have to pay the difference of 5 months rego, for a normal vehicle, minus whatever 5 months rego for an ambo costs. So say 5 months normal rego is $115, and 5 months ambo rego is only $46, you'll get stung the difference.* *Actual numbers may vary, and I could be completely wrong too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corey_jorg Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 doing finishing touches/remaking my hatch. spent all weekend completely rewiring from front seats forward, looks mint. just a few questions involving important pieces. am looking to airbag it front and rear. is currently airbagged rear but want to chop up the chassis and add a small c'notch so it can lay frame with bumps out and also have enough room for a factory bumpstop. my estimate is shown in picture, will also be lifting the spring arm up 35mm at the left end, nothing structual changes when lifting it up as is still designed the same. the "lip" seen hangs down 25-30mm lower than the chassis rail, a double skin for inner guard. just wanting to know what metals to use and how it has to be strengthened. am also looking to had a |_| piece of steel section down the length of each chassis rail to add strength and so they dont get damaged. is this allowed and what thickness/requirements are needed. front setup. yes i know the top hat is wrong and shocks arent shortened but am sorting that. am looking to swap the current spring with a sleeve style airbag. make a suitable mount top and bottom and shorten shock to suit. also any issues/requirements with this? also are my wheel spacers legit? last queery. ive had to chop a chunk out of my oilcooler to fit the lines in. am looking to add some strength back into it. does this cardboard template look ok or shall it be round? Uploaded with ImageShack.us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corey_jorg Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 also have the hotrod cert bible and couldnt find anything in it to help me with the above. so any help would be appreciated. cheers!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 So, I just fitted some driveshaft loops, and I think I cocked it up royally. It's a two piece shaft and I've used 32x6 instead of 50x5 (don't ask why I had those numbers in my head, I've no idea). Is there any lee-way in this at all, considering they are only little short shafts? Please say yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 also have the hotrod cert bible and couldnt find anything in it to help me with the above. so any help would be appreciated. cheers!!! Dunno about the rest of it but the wheel spacers are definitely not legit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Howdy Clint, Small question. I have aftermarket coilovers in my car, and they do not have the little brackets for the brake lines. Are these needed for a cert? Also, A mega thank you for all the time you've taken to sit down and sometimes repeatedly answer all of our questions!! Don't know of any other forum where you can get responses this accurate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Also, A mega thank you for all the time you've taken to sit down and sometimes repeatedly answer all of our questions!! Don't know of any other forum where you can get responses this accurate. What he said ^....most other forums dont have people that have half a clue about technical stuff let alone spend the time to respond to everyone! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Howdy Clint, Small question. I have aftermarket coilovers in my car, and they do not have the little brackets for the brake lines. Are these needed for a cert? Neither did i. I Cut mine off the orginally struts and hose clamped them to the coilovers and he said thats sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 doing finishing touches/remaking my hatch. spent all weekend completely rewiring from front seats forward, looks mint. just a few questions involving important pieces. am looking to airbag it front and rear. is currently airbagged rear but want to chop up the chassis and add a small c'notch so it can lay frame with bumps out and also have enough room for a factory bumpstop. my estimate is shown in picture, will also be lifting the spring arm up 35mm at the left end, nothing structual changes when lifting it up as is still designed the same. the "lip" seen hangs down 25-30mm lower than the chassis rail, a double skin for inner guard. just wanting to know what metals to use and how it has to be strengthened. am also looking to had a |_| piece of steel section down the length of each chassis rail to add strength and so they dont get damaged. is this allowed and what thickness/requirements are needed. front setup. yes i know the top hat is wrong and shocks arent shortened but am sorting that. am looking to swap the current spring with a sleeve style airbag. make a suitable mount top and bottom and shorten shock to suit. also any issues/requirements with this? also are my wheel spacers legit? last queery. ive had to chop a chunk out of my oilcooler to fit the lines in. am looking to add some strength back into it. does this cardboard template look ok or shall it be round? Uploaded with ImageShack.us Best idea here would be get your cert guy you want to use around to have a look at this. With this type of mods, different certifiers often have different ideas on what needs doing, i wouldnt want to say "do x" when your certifier might not be happy with it. those spacers are no good though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 So, I just fitted some driveshaft loops, and I think I cocked it up royally. It's a two piece shaft and I've used 32x6 instead of 50x5 (don't ask why I had those numbers in my head, I've no idea). Is there any lee-way in this at all, considering they are only little short shafts? Please say yes. unfortunately, anything less than 50x5 wont be accepted by LVVTA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Damn. Mighty pissed off with self. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Howdy Clint, Small question. I have aftermarket coilovers in my car, and they do not have the little brackets for the brake lines. Are these needed for a cert? Neither did i. I Cut mine off the orginally struts and hose clamped them to the coilovers and he said thats sweet this. as long as the brake hose is secure, and cant rub on anything in its new position, then it will be fine Also, A mega thank you for all the time you've taken to sit down and sometimes repeatedly answer all of our questions!! Don't know of any other forum where you can get responses this accurate. no worries gents! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Yes ...thanks man! Where are you located? Fitting aftermarket pedal box into auto gem. Do I have to fit a larger automatic sized pedal pad to the assembly or is the small one ok? If changing pcd of an axle 5 stud to different 5 stud is it OK just to drill the new pattern in between the existing holes? Same with brake disks. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 im in auckland. pedal- regular small size manual pedal is fine re drilling axle and disc is fine as long as there is enough meat between the holes, ie you arent getting within 5ishmm of another hole 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbbrad Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Hi there, long time looker, not much of a poster. Just got a couple of questions to do with custom made suspension arms. I'm building a McRae Porsche 550 that has had custom made double wishbone arms made for it instead of the original vw swingarm setup. The work looks of very high quality and was told years ago that it was done by a McRae workshop tech, who is now long dead. That's the reason the car has been sitting untouched for a long time. Trouble is according to the hobby car manual it says that the arms have to be tig welded. Mine are all mig'd. Maybe the rules had changed from all those years ago? I have no dought of the strength and quality of the work, but it's not to the rules. To throw a spanner in the works I see you can buy all kinds of custom suspension arms on the likes of trademe etc, I suppose a lot made in china, that are all mig'd. (Some of them look very questionable!) how do these arms get through a cert etc? Any advice would be a great help. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Yea they must be tiged and crack tested, as well as being made out of a specific material size. Your best bet is to talk to Mcgregor Motorsports in Chch as they have all of the McRae stuff now. They would also be able to build you some arms that would meet the required regs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIRK Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 does it mater if the tail gate on a van is fucked and completely full of rust with massive holes and cracks everywhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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