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Everything posted by SHGWAG

  1. Indeed they do, and sometimes shit hits the fan and they ship the motors anyway... For anyone buying a fresh crate motor, you should pull down and inspect prior to installation. Separately, they aren't balanced all that well from factory. So if you're upping the boost or revs, best to get the rotating assembly balanced.
  2. Hi Clint, I'm about to start the process of mounting a 20B into my FD. Have yet to get a certifier on board, but thought the internet would have all the answers anyway ('cause we all know that if it's on the internet, it's gospel). Anywho, what are the rules around modifying the factory subframe, specifically where the steering rack mounts to the subframe? The mounting points for the rack are at the front of the subframe protruding forward. Xcessive Manufacturing in the States does this kit: https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/mazda/20b/mazda-20b-m-20b-fd-xmm-k.html Kit is for LHD cars so can't be used here. Essentially I want to do the same, but rather than cut out the subframe and weld in new parts, the plan is to: Cut the stock subframe either side of the mounting brackets Bend the front of the subframe down which will rotate the rack downwards. Reweld the subframe Notch the subframe slightly to clear the steering shaft. This effectively drops the height of the steering rack. The below pic shows what I want to achieve - see the nearest edge of each subframe with the rack mounts: Top subframe is an aftermarket option, bottom is the stock subframe. The second aspect to this, is the bump steer issue caused by dropping the rack. Most kits out of the states use 'bump steer adapters' which is just an adjustable rod that spaces down the tie rod end - is this legal in nz? Both of the above things have been done in circuit cars, but unsure of legality for nz roads. The other option is to build a custom subframe, however, I'm trying to limit costs. All of this is to get the motor as low as possible in the chassis, and maintain the factory bonnet. Already cutting 40mm out of the intake manifold, however need atleast another 30mm to make it fit. Thanks
  3. Interesting, we usually scope this as builders work for services (by the builder). Not in 10 years have I ever seen a plumber put in his own nogs. May be different for residential, however?
  4. If anyone on here buys this, I have a spare front diff mount (possibly 2) at home sitting in the shed. Alternatively, Part Shop Max does solid mounts fairly cheap. Speaking of Regamasters.. Finally got around to fitting Semis on mine last week.
  5. Heaps of pics and vids posted in the Rotary Buy Sell Swap FB page. You need to be a member though. Some pics here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/Boosted-Pixels-photography-1262124677145341/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1401001403257667
  6. Yeah, I'll be there again in the 64 Bel Air. Arriving late Wednesday at this stage.
  7. Looks good, have a secret fetish for these
  8. Looks like progress is coming along well!
  9. My BT was noisey as. Drove it for 120,000kms and never skipped a beat. Daily limiter bouncing keeps them tip top. Sweet car, first time seeing it in the flesh and it's pretty damn awesome.
  10. Nice work! This thing would be a handful in today's weather!
  11. Damn that's a shit hand to be dealt!
  12. Good work! I expect a ride / hand shandy in this at the next Hanmeat xo
  13. This is going to amazing! By golly!
  14. Ok the places are pricey as fuck but right for the event.
  15. Our accommodation fell over on Friday. Scrambling to find something too now.
  16. That's the one. Wayne and I are taking the Wagon, Tim's borrowing the Delivery, The owner of the Delivery is taking his '33.
  17. I'm heading over Wednesday, returning to Hamilton on Sunday. Taking the following in our group: '64 Bel Air Wagon '28 Model A Delivery '33 Roadster Should be fun times!
  18. Hi, I may come spectate. Someone txt me and remind me, Track is 40mins from my house.
  19. Top work! I feel that the purchase of a flat peak is in order.
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