SHGWAG

Finally got around to reading this! I've found the best way to launch a gtr is hold the rpm just off limiter, dump clutch and bury right foot at the same time. You should end up spinning 3+ wheels off the line (depending on if you have a front LSD or not). Then it just hooks up and leaves. Sounds violent, but at your power level everything should hold up fine. Should give you a sub 2 second 60ft on semi slicks. Disclaimer: Street tyres / semi slicks only.

In the last 4 years I have: Bought a turbo, wheels, surge tank, lower intake manifold. That's it. Would be the longest build thread ever. That 476 wouldn't make power until over 5000rpm and then it would come in like a sledge hammer. Still think a 300sxe frame is the go.

Specifically on rotaries, seem to last on piston engines - might be due to the exhaust temps? I know a rotary tuning shop has numerous issues and couldn't even get a refund from them. I've also heard some negative stuff about PAC, but don't run any of their gear. Borg SXEs are good bang for buck, although aren't as responsive as the newer turbos. I've gone Garrett G40-1200 for my 20B build, should be nice and responsive but will be awhile before I have any feedback.

Yes, do this. Actually don't, unless you're going to run an 80mm+ turbo. Trust me. Yeah, those days are long gone. Should have kept my spare blocks, would be a rich man now. Dumb thing is, have been thinking of parting out the race car recently, it's sat in the shed for 5 years and gone nowhere. They also run drag radials on the road too. 650rwhp is the sweet spot, you get traction in gears 3 and up. What a Rollercoaster of a thread! Good read after being absent from OS for months. Have heard bad things about the large frame pulsar turbos. My vote is a BW 366sxe, you'll make 300+ wkw on pump gas and 400wkw+ on e85. 1.15? (Might be 1.09) AR T4 exhaust flange. Relatively cheap turbo as well and have proven reliability. Go for a stand alone ecu and save yourself from a future rebuild. FDs are a sweet car, I sold my 1st one, soon regretted it and bought another one/two.

Indeed they do, and sometimes shit hits the fan and they ship the motors anyway... For anyone buying a fresh crate motor, you should pull down and inspect prior to installation. Separately, they aren't balanced all that well from factory. So if you're upping the boost or revs, best to get the rotating assembly balanced.

Hi Clint, I'm about to start the process of mounting a 20B into my FD. Have yet to get a certifier on board, but thought the internet would have all the answers anyway ('cause we all know that if it's on the internet, it's gospel). Anywho, what are the rules around modifying the factory subframe, specifically where the steering rack mounts to the subframe? The mounting points for the rack are at the front of the subframe protruding forward. Xcessive Manufacturing in the States does this kit: https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/mazda/20b/mazda-20b-m-20b-fd-xmm-k.html Kit is for LHD cars so can't be used here. Essentially I want to do the same, but rather than cut out the subframe and weld in new parts, the plan is to: Cut the stock subframe either side of the mounting brackets Bend the front of the subframe down which will rotate the rack downwards. Reweld the subframe Notch the subframe slightly to clear the steering shaft. This effectively drops the height of the steering rack. The below pic shows what I want to achieve - see the nearest edge of each subframe with the rack mounts: Top subframe is an aftermarket option, bottom is the stock subframe. The second aspect to this, is the bump steer issue caused by dropping the rack. Most kits out of the states use 'bump steer adapters' which is just an adjustable rod that spaces down the tie rod end - is this legal in nz? Both of the above things have been done in circuit cars, but unsure of legality for nz roads. The other option is to build a custom subframe, however, I'm trying to limit costs. All of this is to get the motor as low as possible in the chassis, and maintain the factory bonnet. Already cutting 40mm out of the intake manifold, however need atleast another 30mm to make it fit. Thanks

Interesting, we usually scope this as builders work for services (by the builder). Not in 10 years have I ever seen a plumber put in his own nogs. May be different for residential, however?

If anyone on here buys this, I have a spare front diff mount (possibly 2) at home sitting in the shed. Alternatively, Part Shop Max does solid mounts fairly cheap. Speaking of Regamasters.. Finally got around to fitting Semis on mine last week.

Your Cosmo is also worthy.... Of a spot in my garage.

Meowzer, when is the next burger fuel meat?

Heaps of pics and vids posted in the Rotary Buy Sell Swap FB page. You need to be a member though. Some pics here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/Boosted-Pixels-photography-1262124677145341/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1401001403257667

Yeah, I'll be there again in the 64 Bel Air. Arriving late Wednesday at this stage.

Looks good, have a secret fetish for these

Looks like progress is coming along well!

My BT was noisey as. Drove it for 120,000kms and never skipped a beat. Daily limiter bouncing keeps them tip top. Sweet car, first time seeing it in the flesh and it's pretty damn awesome.