bbbrad

Hi there. I have searched and found a bit of info regarding side exit exhausts. My question is, I know I can exit the pipe out the side as long as its behind the cabin, directs the gases away from the vehicle etc etc. But can that pipe be say 500mm from the ground?? out the side? My car is mid engined and it makes it very easy to do so just before the rear guard at a height of around 500mm. I suppose in a similar place to where a normal fuel filler door may be. Thanks in advance.

Whats the progress on the ecu?

The microsquirt has 2 ig outputs and can be configured to a total of 4 ig outputs. These things run ls v8's directly in wasted coil on plug ignition. So yes will run a 6 cyl.

Yo, thanks for the input. I am deleting the power steering as im doing a v6 engine swap and want to keep things simple, light weight, and im wanting room up the front for other things. I had been driving around with the p/s fuse removed because it feels alot better than the feather light steering when its operating. Flying brick...try brad.glasgow@hotmail.com Oh I have seen in another forum where the input shaft is locked into the pinion with a resin. Gets around the welding problem. And from what i've researched most of the jap racks are pretty much break proof, in terms of they are a like a loose course fitting splined setup, as opposed to the weaker tang drive setups. (tangs break off.)

Thanks for that Cletus. I'll look into it.

1999 Toyota mr-s. There is no manual option. I'm wondering if an older rack pinion from another toyota may fit? What are the chances of them having the same tooth profile etc?

Hi everyone, I'm trying to find out if a power steering rack can be turned into a manual one, legally? I understand the workings of the internals, as in the torsion bar etc and I know that the input shaft is not connected directly to the pinion gear. I understand that a ps rack can fail if it is used when no pump etc is connected. Anywhere else in the world, (not nz), they just weld the input shaft to the pinion. But after reading the hobbycar manual it says that no internal part of the rack can be welded. What are my options?

Ya, thanks for the reply. I have the hobby car manual, that's the reason I'm pissed because it says it has to be tig'd. Funny thing I've just been to the field days here and talked to a very in the know welding rep. I explained the problem and he thought it was a joke. He explained to me that the basic er70 tig wire is the same as er70 mig wire and both methods will produce the same strength welds. He also added that a tig weld on a suspension arm would be approx half the thickness of a mig weld so would have less surface area joined by weld. Makes sense to me, but I'm sure the people that make the rules would be harder to convince. Anyway I've just sand blasted the arms off to get a good look at the welds. They look great as expected. It would be a shame to go to all the trouble of grinding them off just to lay a tig over the top.

Hi there, long time looker, not much of a poster. Just got a couple of questions to do with custom made suspension arms. I'm building a McRae Porsche 550 that has had custom made double wishbone arms made for it instead of the original vw swingarm setup. The work looks of very high quality and was told years ago that it was done by a McRae workshop tech, who is now long dead. That's the reason the car has been sitting untouched for a long time. Trouble is according to the hobby car manual it says that the arms have to be tig welded. Mine are all mig'd. Maybe the rules had changed from all those years ago? I have no dought of the strength and quality of the work, but it's not to the rules. To throw a spanner in the works I see you can buy all kinds of custom suspension arms on the likes of trademe etc, I suppose a lot made in china, that are all mig'd. (Some of them look very questionable!) how do these arms get through a cert etc? Any advice would be a great help. Cheers.