For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[Guest cletus]

vws are allowed a small drop (1 spline) without camber being an issue cert wise

because with a 1 spline drop it wont get that much camber, they are common to modify, generally dont have much power, are rear engined so traction isnt a problem, and a bit of camber in a swing axle irs can make it safer because it reduces the wheels "tucking under" when cornering hard.

the alternative was not being able to drop a beetle without doing a trans lift or converting to later irs beetle suspension

[Guest Gomaxgo]

after all the boxes are ticked and the certifier is happy with the vehicle, how long until the plate arrives? is there an 'urgent priority' for an extra fee? kinda like homologation for roll cages?

[Guest cletus]

i tell people 7-10 working days usually.

sometimes its faster than that, but dont like to say that, cause then it doesnt happen, and then im a prick......

[Guest MichaelJFox]

Yeah, you came and had a look at mine.

Have just ended up getting it above 100mm and getting a wof as I tried for 6 weeks to get someone to have a look at it but no-one ever showed up after lots of yeah we'll come at the end of the week sorta stz.

It's a couple splines in the rear with widened steels, but looks tame as when the standard wheels go back on/cert time.

Doesn't have any issues that I've noticed with it, got through a bunch of Beach Hop related check points over the weekend, they had VTNZ guys there in high viz.

I just want it cert'd so I can not worry about insurance shit.

Always make it hard for the people trying to do it right.

Edit; and muppets like me who have too much money in a beetle probably spat the dummy because there are no 'factory camber settings' anywhere.

[Guest Hachi-ichi]

Right o.

Got the Kei Office coilovers in. Yay !

My car looks the beans now and feels much better as opposed to factory bus shocks with no gas in them ( that being the only way we got the rears out without spring compressors )

Problem is... A cert is a no go at the moment due to some welding that was done in Japan on the spindles-tube.

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2012_Welded_Aftermarket_Suspension_Struts.pdf

After having red through the above link. I now have the understanding that essentially welding a strut to a knucke is basically how an OE system works, problem is that after welding, responsibility of the safety moves from OE manufacturer to the LVV certifier. That meaning the welds have to be equal to OE.

Well after further reading I saw that I can get this certified ( I think) with correct documents provided to the LVV certifier in confidence stating the following.

whether the component is a casting or a forging; an

d

•

full material specifications for the cast/forged co

mponent and tube; and

•

hardness values/readings for the forged/cast compon

ent, the tube, the weld area, and the heat

affected zones at 1 mm from toe of the weld on the

forging/casting; and

•

welding processes (including pre and post heat trea

ting details).

Hmmm. Now there is an Issue with this.

Kei office has gone bankrupt/ was sold off by Tsuchiya.

meaning Im in a bit of a bad position with needing information like this.

How have other people been certed with lets say BCs on an AE85-6 or MX83/ JZX81?

Has BC just provided info to the LVV stating their products can be welded etc similar to how Falken tyre allowed stretch on the ZIEX 912s with documentation?

[Guest evil_si]

Hey Clint

I have a customers car that I'm doing an exhaust on at the moment,

He wants the waste gate pipe to follow the exhaust and exit at the rear, apart from the exhaust noise side of it, will the waste gate pipe need to be muffled for cert?

[Guest RUNAMUCK]

I don't know shit, but I was told by someone that would be legit, so long as there was at least one resonator on said pipe. To be fair, it'd be fucking hard to test. You could get pulled over for noise, but when stationary it'd be next to impossible to get that gate to open.

[Guest JoKer]

still needs to be under 90db (same as exhaust) or whatever the magic number is these days BUT YES that can work

[Guest cletus]

the wof virm changed a couple of times regarding "screamer pipes" but the way it stands at the moment you can have a seperate exhaust for the wastegate, and it doesnt need to have a muffler.

however, after driving a couple of cars set up like this, if you are doing it cause your customer wants to get the same noise as one venting all over the radiator/engine mount/steering rack boot then its a waste of time in my opinion, it sounds at best like a farty un muffled N/A car out the back when the gate opens

[Guest RUNAMUCK]

Would not an unmuffled gate pipe see less restriction to flow, therefore less back pressure at the turbo?

[Guest MRWEST]

Cant remember who told me this or why, But for a vin is it neccessary to purchase said new brake pads/shoes in NZ.

Or is it ok for them to come from US Of A?

[Guest Raizer]

I believe it needs the lines flushed, new fluid and proof that its been bleed properly.

I had to have a pit stop receipt when I got my van vin'd years back, was no mention of the age/condition of the pads/shoes.

[Guest MRWEST]

oh ok well will have new lines, MC, shoes, wheel cylinders anyways..

Reason i ask is shoes here are $320 a set , can get from the states for under $100.

[Guest k-trips]

Just get yours relined for less than $100 a set.. Brand new is an expensive way to go..

[Guest MRWEST]

dont think iv got a complete set of shoes, think im missing a couple , actually now i think about it might be some in the other diff....will investigate. however only $25usa a end so not a huge cost

[Guest capone]

I got vinned as it came from the states, no bleed, no liquid change, same pads etc etc.

[Guest Gomaxgo]

We change a lot of brake pads at work because they need correct numbers on them to pass apparently. It blows my mind how many corvettes that have genuine gm pads fail because they are not up to spec

[Guest Ranter]

Yeah that is one of the reasons I stopped complying private imports, you used to have to buy locally and provide a declaration of the quality of the pads. $20 pads were fine though while throwing out top quality pads. Just one of the bullshit rules, but at least they do update this stuff every once in a while, years ago we would have to remove the master cylinder for inspection every couple of years for COF I guess it makes sure your fluid is changed.

[Guest RUNAMUCK]

I recently had a strut out of my car.

Instead of shortening the insert, a steel tab has been welded to the spring cups to keep the springs captive. I've since become aquainted with the person who owned the car when it was certed. He said it failed on not being captive, so he added the tabs, and then passed.

Are these still legit?

[Guest Seedy Al]

ok I'm sure this has been covered a million times before

but I am starting to think about the cert on my crown

so a few questions.

It is using a factory gear box, so no moddied drive shafts, its power is 100 percent over factory

Am In the right understanding that I will need TWO drive shaft loops as it is a 2 piece drive shaft

Next question, wheels and spacers. I have 15 inch spacers on at the moment, that fit perfect over the hub, but have no locating rings for the wheels to sit on, Do I need to moddify these so that the wheel does fit on them? they were on there when I got the spacers, but I had them machined off, as for some reason they didnt work with my wheels

Third and final question. Fuel pump.

The fuel pump in my car comes on when the the key is sitched to igition through the ecu. Is this acceptable or can it only operate when the egine is cranking and running? I have not checked if it switches off then the motor is turned off tho yet.

Oh, and maybe another thing. I am most likley be going for a revin also. So, would I see the cert man first, let him check it over, get a list of stuff, fix it, then go for revin, then finalise cert? and if so can i do it longer than 28 days with the cert man?