spangleR Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 sorry if its been asked but search found nothing and reading 80 pages would kill me. Do I need cert if Ive swapped a engine for the twin cam version (1geu to 1gge) and a manual conversion using all bolt on parts from the same chassis? Edit: Think I just found the answers, but someone who knows there stuff to say yes or no would let me sleep easy at night Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 as i understand it: yes, as you've changed the head design. I'm at the same odds with my car. If I present the right figures it comes within 20%, but is dohc vs sohc so I'm fucked. everything bolts in like you wouldn't believe but it's cert city. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 also. Was talking about camber with a joker the other day and how you're meant to keep factory specs..... I have bottom arms in my 205 that came from a 309, and a rear suspension beam from the same. all these do is add a degree of camber in the front, and like 1.5" more track width at the rear. bolt in. perfect. without knowing, nobody could even tell except a pug foamer. will I run into issues here if I was to attempt get it noted on a cert plate or should I keep mum about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spangleR Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Uhh bugger, will just have to keep it under the radar as long as possible. way to much needs tidying up before i even attempt to get cert. Rust, bog and cable ties won't quite cut it lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 sorry if its been asked but search found nothing and reading 80 pages would kill me. Do I need cert if Ive swapped a engine for the twin cam version (1geu to 1gge) and a manual conversion using all bolt on parts from the same chassis? Edit: Think I just found the answers, but someone who knows there stuff to say yes or no would let me sleep easy at night yep does need cert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 also. Was talking about camber with a joker the other day and how you're meant to keep factory specs..... I have bottom arms in my 205 that came from a 309, and a rear suspension beam from the same. all these do is add a degree of camber in the front, and like 1.5" more track width at the rear. bolt in. perfect. without knowing, nobody could even tell except a pug foamer. will I run into issues here if I was to attempt get it noted on a cert plate or should I keep mum about it? if its not certed already, then get it included. the certifier isnt allowed to ignore things that are modified, plus its in your best interests to have everything covered. you will need a wheel alignment report if its lowered or the suspension has been modified- camber for cert = maximum factory setting PLUS half a degree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 sweet. not certed yet. couple of other jokers on here hav same thing and get away with it for wofs so I'll hold off for a bit if I can til i sort some other things but will def get it noted. Have wheel alignment printout to hand etc for the win. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Sorry if iv already asked this- I'm just getting conflicting advice. Fitting a v8 into my gem. Current pcd is 4x100. Do I need to go 5 stud? Not a problem if yes- just means I need new wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berjjj Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Have tried searching, maybe I just suck but.. If I was to have a rear strut bar with 3 mounting points welded into the boot (1 point per shock tower and 1 to boot floor), would that be classifified as a structural modification and in turn require a cert? If so, any testing needed of the welds? Wondering if this would abide by the same rules regarding half cages etc. http://www.racetep.com/rbrace.html ^This is exactly what I'm talking about/have sitting in my garage, just want it welded in rather than risking the bolts ripping through sheet metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Hey Clint, how long does it typically take to get a cert plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunacy Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Have a couple of questions Cletus Ive had my starion struts cut and shortened to use adjustable KYB inserts. Then converted them to coilovers using welded on sleeves. The welding was all done mig by a certified welder (have a copy of his ticket etc). Is there a need to have these xrayed? Any other forseeable problems? Secondly am running wilwood 4 pot front calipers, and about to sort the braided front lines. Factory hardline is M10 fitting, so was thinking of using a steel M10 to 3an adaptor, 3an (crimped both ends) braided hoseline, then 3/8NPT to 3an 90 degree adaptor. Any issue with the adaptors? Thanks man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Sorry if iv already asked this- I'm just getting conflicting advice. Fitting a v8 into my gem. Current pcd is 4x100. Do I need to go 5 stud? Not a problem if yes- just means I need new wheels What sort of v8? should have same pcd/number of studs as the donor vehicle. as a rough rule of thumb. ie a rover v8 you could leave it 4 stud. big block chev would need more strength Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Have tried searching, maybe I just suck but.. If I was to have a rear strut bar with 3 mounting points welded into the boot (1 point per shock tower and 1 to boot floor), would that be classifified as a structural modification and in turn require a cert? If so, any testing needed of the welds? Wondering if this would abide by the same rules regarding half cages etc. http://www.racetep.com/rbrace.html ^This is exactly what I'm talking about/have sitting in my garage, just want it welded in rather than risking the bolts ripping through sheet metal. bolt on strut brace doesnt need cert, a weld on one would. heres a list of stuff that can be done without cert. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Hey Clint, how long does it typically take to get a cert plate? i tell people 7-10 working days usually. sometimes its faster than that, but dont like to say that, cause then it doesnt happen, and then im a prick...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Have a couple of questions Cletus Ive had my starion struts cut and shortened to use adjustable KYB inserts. Then converted them to coilovers using welded on sleeves. The welding was all done mig by a certified welder (have a copy of his ticket etc). Is there a need to have these xrayed? Any other forseeable problems? Secondly am running wilwood 4 pot front calipers, and about to sort the braided front lines. Factory hardline is M10 fitting, so was thinking of using a steel M10 to 3an adaptor, 3an (crimped both ends) braided hoseline, then 3/8NPT to 3an 90 degree adaptor. Any issue with the adaptors? Thanks man if you go by the absolute letter of the law, any mods to suspension parts like that should be tig welded and crack tested. However, i have certed quite a few struts modified like that ie just a sleeve welded on to the original strut, and ive never had one knocked back by LVVTA. IMO the weld in that situation does not have a lot of load on it for the size of the weld, so its not super critical, as opposed to a strut welded at the base which has steering/braking forces and weight bearing on the welded join brake hoses sound fine, as long as they are proper brake hoses and have crimped ends holding the hoses on to the end fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunacy Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 if you go by the absolute letter of the law, any mods to suspension parts like that should be tig welded and crack tested. However, i have certed quite a few struts modified like that ie just a sleeve welded on to the original strut, and ive never had one knocked back by LVVTA. IMO the weld in that situation does not have a lot of load on it for the size of the weld, so its not super critical, as opposed to a strut welded at the base which has steering/braking forces and weight bearing on the welded join brake hoses sound fine, as long as they are proper brake hoses and have crimped ends holding the hoses on to the end fittings. Yeah the welding is all done properly - not backyard styles. Car is a targa car anyway so not like i want things like suspension failing at 200 clicks! Long as im not going to have problems come cert time then thats cool. Cheers for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Hey Clint My cousin is getting his VK commodore certified by you this Thursday I believe (be kind to him, haha) and he said that you mentioned that the 1 piece driveshafts tend to rub - You were bang on. Whats the most common way around this? Would it be acceptable to remove the mount for the hanger bearing all together or is the mount a structural part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 i cant remember off the top of my head whats near/mounted off it, if it is near a seat or seatbelt mount, it may have to stay, or be replaced by something that has similar strength or greater, and room for the driveshaft- or re fit a 2 piece shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 What sort of v8? should have same pcd/number of studs as the donor vehicle. as a rough rule of thumb. ie a rover v8 you could leave it 4 stud. big block chev would need more strength Is that just a V8 thing because if not, that means my grande should have beeen 5 stud, not 4 stud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 "Rough rule of thumb" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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