RXFORD Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 24 minutes ago, zep said: My diff has been shortened but I have realised that it would be good to come in about 5-10mm more on each side. Since all the brackets are already welded on, would it be okay to cut the axle housing flanges off, remove that 5-10mm, and weld them back on? I would shorten the axles at the splines to suit. Technically no if it was spotted because you are not allowed to weld castings, which is why I shorten them through the housing tubes. If you remade the flanges from weldable steel however... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Are the axle flanges cast though? Some diffs yes, some diff no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 I checked my hiace one here and apparantly it is... But yeh cast/forged possibly. I spoke with the bald jesus @cletus himself about about narrowing them that way eons ago and he rekons it was a jailable offense at the time or something like that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 How close is too close? There is about 5mm. This is with the handbrake engaged. The left side is Triumph, so 5/16th thread. I've shortened that. The right side is Toyota, M6 thread and unmodified. The bracket on the right could move over about 10mm before the balance bar thing hits the tunnel. But it makes only a couple mm difference to the size of the gap. I suppose I could do a project Binky and make a shorter balance bar that lets me move it farther. I can probably move the handbrake over a tiny bit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Or, I could get Melbar cables to make me a new cable that is adjusted at one end or the other, so it's only the cable that is close to the propshaft, not the adjuster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Looks ok to me? As long as it doesn't touch the driveshaft, should be fine. If you are worried about it you could make a hook or similar to keep it from getting closer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motu Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Shit, Holden's used to touch the driveshaft when applied, so if it's good for GM for 20 years or so, you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zep Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 On 27/04/2024 at 18:32, RXFORD said: I checked my hiace one here and apparantly it is... But yeh cast/forged possibly. I spoke with the bald jesus @cletus himself about about narrowing them that way eons ago and he rekons it was a jailable offense at the time or something like that. Ah yeah, damn. That makes sense. Depending on how the panel beating quote come back to create the clearance on the body instead, it still might be cheaper to CNC up some new flanges! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 On 27/04/2024 at 18:32, RXFORD said: I checked my hiace one here and apparantly it is... But yeh cast/forged possibly. I spoke with the bald jesus @cletus himself about about narrowing them that way eons ago and he rekons it was a jailable offense at the time or something like that. It's now a "grey area" It comes up fairly regularly as a lot of the time it's already been done when I see it Each time it comes up I send photos through to lvvta and they decide if it's OK or not I'd avoid it if you can as it creates unknowns, but if you want to do it, email lvvta first and see what they want /how it should be welded 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 18 hours ago, cletus said: Looks ok to me? As long as it doesn't touch the driveshaft, should be fine. If you are worried about it you could make a hook or similar to keep it from getting closer Local cert man, Julian, said much the same. "as long as it doesn't rub". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted Sunday at 22:46 Share Posted Sunday at 22:46 @cletus Is there a minimum thickness of steel required for engine mounts - the parts that bolt to the engine. I've made mine from 3mm steel and but for adding an extra gusset they are finished. I don't see them failing (each one carries circa 50kg static weight) However I have started making a new pair, mainly so I can move the bobbins and cross member away from the engine by another 5mm so avoiding any chance of annoying knocks on bumpy roads. The base that bolts to the engine is 5mm. But to build the rest in 5mm will be tricky and I feel total over kill. Will 4mm be OK. It's thicker steel than I've seen on most oem mounts. Ive looked on the lvvta site and can only find this.. Nothing about minimum thickness? An engine-mounting system in a low volume vehicle must be of good design and construction, must position and support the engine correctly, and must be securely attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted Sunday at 22:54 Share Posted Sunday at 22:54 Nope, there's no minimum thickness, the design of the mount bracket is more important IMO than thickness. 4mm would be fine if the design is right. Even 'reputable' manufacturers get the design bit wrong... 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARDRB Posted Sunday at 23:28 Share Posted Sunday at 23:28 On 29/04/2024 at 09:36, Adoom said: Local cert man, Julian, said much the same. "as long as it doesn't rub". Don't drive with the handbrake on and you'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted Sunday at 23:39 Share Posted Sunday at 23:39 41 minutes ago, cletus said: Nope, there's no minimum thickness, the design of the mount bracket is more important IMO than thickness. 4mm would be fine if the design is right. Cool. I've just made a 'acme mount jig 2000', got my 5mm base plates bolted in and will pop to town for some 4mm plate. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87creepin Posted Sunday at 23:42 Share Posted Sunday at 23:42 How legal is it to “resto” my old white license plates rather than pay to get them re-made with the new font white plates? by resto I mean colour match the metallic grey-white colour and respray it with the numbers Matty B. It doesn’t have the security watermark thingy. already hammered out a lot of the dents, feeling like a bit of a Barry now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted Monday at 00:10 Share Posted Monday at 00:10 It's not legal to do anything other than clean them with soap and water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted Monday at 00:19 Share Posted Monday at 00:19 What's the go when a car with a cert gets new numberplates? Not when the plates it had when it got the cert have lapsed but if it gets changed to/from a personalised plate. Saw a car on the tard this morning that has a cert for seatbelt mounts but the personalised plate rego on the cert plate doesn't match the personalised plates on the car. The ad goes on to say that the plates on the car don't go with it and that it will have a standard issue plate at time of sale. Is the cert still legal or does it technically need to be redone with the new rego number even if nothing else has been changed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datlow Posted Monday at 00:48 Share Posted Monday at 00:48 That’s why it also has the vin number on the tag 3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted Monday at 01:01 Share Posted Monday at 01:01 Looking at the lvvta chip lookup page the cert is registered to the vin not the plate, my plate isn't even listed under vehicle details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted 10 hours ago Share Posted 10 hours ago Going back to this cock-up where I cut my bumper support bar to fit an intercooler. if I can't fit the cooler behind the stock one could I fit a bar from another car that accommodates an Intercooler? Just found one from my 06 vw golf In my roof that is a very close fit if I transferred the flanges over would that be acceptable? If not I'll probably look at cutting back the intercooler to fit under the stock bar. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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