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It's off the rotisserie for now! Needed to sort out the driveshaft which require the engine and gearbox to go back in. Got the axles sent away to be shortened and resplined by 105mm a side. That meant I should make an attempt at swapping the Altezza LSD and the 4.1 CWP into the diff head. No pics because I didn't really know what I was doing. But for those that are interested I ended up using the LSD side bearings and swapped the Estima pinion bearings onto the 4.1 pinion. The Altezza pinion bearings where thicker which made the pinion gear hit the diff case. I couldn't get the wear pattern right because I didn't have any shims other than the two that were already on the pinions. Got it close enough for the time being, will buy some shims or give it to someone else to finish off. Decided to run Coil-on-plugs instead of the dizzy relocation kit, mostly just to keep the engine bay looking simple and clean. Got a set of 1NZ coils, I'm thinking of casting up an adapter plate for them. Got the SQ engineering down-pull throttle linkage installed and got the accelerator cable shortened to suit. Made a vacuum block off plate, since I hope none of that stuff is needed anymore. Also at some stage I filled all the unneeded holes in the front radiator panel. Modded the accelerator pedal so it sits a bit closer to the other pedals, as before it was way off to the right. Two-piece driveshaft all mounted now too! Think I got the angles sorted after spending far too long trying to work it all out. It's an Altezza driveshaft with the front half shortened (yes I know the front section u-joint phasing is 90° out). In this photo you can also notice the sills have been strengthened (somehow missed that update somewhere). Used some 3mm angle and welded it the full length and ground back, so it's now really straight! Then boxed it back up to the floor, to try and stop dirt and moisture getting stuck in behind. Makes lifting the car along there way nicer! This is the centre bearing support mount, much thought was also put into this! Hopefully it's fine being welded to the seatbelt mounts haha. Still needs some doubler plates welded on to the other side of the tunnel.

Right, babies 2 weeks old now so can continue playing with this thing. Worked our I’m still not getting full throttle. It goes well but not as fast as it should. Had a look at the accelerator pedal, found the problem. FUCK OFF, seriously?! Never have I spoken a truer word..... Made a nice new one and gave it more pedal travel. Guess what, full throttle now actually makes power, real power! Wheel spinning, ear grinning neck turning power. I’m a happy man.

Just picked up this old girl off a mate of mine who had owned it for about 12 years. It's going to be a hell of a lot of work to get it legal ago. He built it as a bit of a skid hack and not alot else. Has a 2l in with with a bit of head work and a cam in it with a 5 speed box. Has been c notched which I'm not sire of i will continue down that route or hunt down a factory chassis . I've got the grill and head light surrounds to throw back on which should make it looks a bit tidier Anyway on to the pics

Well that VHT was a fail. came out sandy brown despite the cap being pretty lush and yellow..spewing. Quick dash to Mega and I got some more stuff as nothing suitable at work or repco BRO! Not even close, looked like arts n crafts time sans macaroni elbows. Wasnt about to go and get a $40 can of hammer-rite gold cause it was suggested it was a lighter gold and it’s a bit of a gamble/Jew. SEND IT. Actually looks great in person. The back is smooth yet the front is stippled so it calmed it down nicely, and the shadow effect from inner of spokes helps. Gonna let them sit inside overnite and smash some clear tomorrow. Fine print on VHT wheel clear says 7 DAYS to cure. god damn it. Let’s hope it’s hardy AF.

Took the truck for its first major drive on the weekend did a 40km return trip out to Waihi Beach and she run flawlessly! Have had the Artilleries rebarreled as after sandblasting they had a heap of holes in the barrels. Wheel and Frame in Cambrdige rebarreled them with 7 inch barrels instead of 5.5 they were factory. Centres were riveted in from factory so they drilled these out and welded the centres into new barrels. Mate lined up to paint these this week then the whitewalls can go on!

Did some more digging. Managed to make it a bit better with hammer and dolly. Weld up the holes. Power file

smashed some progress, on this today, thanks heaps to @Mitch.W for doing almost all the work while i stood around, talked shit and drunk beer. Mitch spent ages on the tig and fabbed up this lush new subframe on the bike. thicker rear stays in the same spot as the stock one but the thicker pipe looks way better. a nice flat frame with a wee kink at the end that all ties in nice and level with the tank to give a lush flat backbone to the bike. I cut the mounts off the swingarm for the shocks are remounted them on the inside of the swingarm to narrow the shocks up which also helped heaps with the bikes aesthetic. Nice wee tank mount, unfortunately theI cheapo chinese CG tank isnt level so the left side drops below frame, might grab a Jap CG tank if one ever pops up. m super stoked how it all turned out and cant wait to make a seat base for it. I might still shorten the rear guard out as i dont know if i like it out that far but will see once the seats sorted.

In my last post I thought I'd made the idle better, but it turned out I just made the car idle faster when warm and hardly run at all when cold. So I kept researching. Most results relate to the more-popular V12 engine, and you also have to contend with the fact that the AJ6 had at least two different fuel injection systems on it over the years, with and without various anti-pollution devices. Here I've removed more of the intake bits to check for gunk and vacuum leaks: Some crankcase oil must end up condensing on the throttle plate and running down into the throttle position sensor mounted underneath it (TPS arrowed, throttle assembly shown upside down): I cleaned the TPS and measured its resistance. It seemed correct and linear except slightly higher at idle than immediately off idle. I measured and adjusted the throttle plate gap, reassembled everything and followed the idle setting procedure. Basically you fake the coolant temperature reading to cause the idle stepper motor to close, then you unplug that and set the base idle speed with the air bypass adjustment screw. I couldn't quiiiite achieve a low-enough base idle even with the air bypass fully closed, which I guess isn't ideal. The idle speed seems good now (hot and cold), but the car still struggles into life if it hasn't been started in a day or two and its idle still stumbles a bit. I tried new plugs and I tried spraying flammable stuff all around the intake to check for more leaks, but no luck. The next step of the idle setting procedure is to check the exhaust CO at idle, but I'll obviously need to find a shop to do that. I think you adjust the CO with a calibration screw on the airflow meter. My iteration of the AJ6 engine has no exhaust gas oxygen sensor, therefore I guess it just bases the fuelling on the AFM reading, a wing and a prayer? (fun fact - this is better than the early AJ6 EFI which just used manifold vacuum with no possibility for calibration - the vacuum would deteriorate at quite low mileages because the engine's valves didn't seal very well, or something nightmarish along those lines...) Anyway, my aftermarket electric aerial destroyed itself already. A piece of a little cog broke off and jammed the big cog..... ....but the Jaguar inline fuse did not blow. Instead the motor got very hot and began to melt the surrounding plastic, until a wire connected to the motor burned through. Electric aerials are very important and I couldn't deal with mine being out of action, so I bought another of the same brand. When I opened it up to oil the crap out of it, I noticed it had been revised - the cog which broke in the old one is now made out of a black material in the new one. Hmmm. Also, I spotted this XJ-S (not mine) with a lame personalised plate: It looks like they've parked their planet-pillaging V12 in a bay reserved for bicycles only, which of course they could get away with....because they've got a Jaaaaaaag.

Few bits and pieces sorted in the last week, Scored a set of louvers for it, got sent a photo of it previously when it had them before flares, looked good so grabbed them for a rainy day( will see if i run them with the flares or not yet) Also had a mate repaint the gauge surrounds as i sanded off the black to find the factory silver had been sanded off so didnt have much choice but to repaint it so it was tidy. While he was there got him to repaint the dash topper black. @64valiant has the dash topper for retrimming at the moment, soon as i have that it can go back together. Booked in to go to rust repairs this weekend, I also booked it into Chrome Expression Session so time to get shit moving and get it there haha. Next 4 or 5 weeks going to be all go!!

Monkey shot by @Raizer

A fair bit has been done since the last update. I spoke to Trevor at Holden Diagnostics. We agreed that the tune was causing the issues, and he could sort it out. The guy who did the original tune has been known to have trouble with VT engines. I had a bunch of people coming round from work on Saturday night and wanted the car running. Trevor sent me a spare memcal and said send your old one back when all is good. Thursday night I fitted the new for the water pump. The old one looked pretty tired. I put the throttle body and everything else back together and fired it up. Then swapped out the Memcal and all good. I spend a lot of Saturday working on the car. a couple of hours went into getting the wiper motor fitted. I had made up an adapter plate ages ago which was fine. The challenge was getting clearance for the motor body on one side and the actuator arm in the plenum chamber on the other side. Using a couple of washers under one side of the adapter plate did the trick. Sorry no photos. I also put in my Dakota Digital interface box to make the speedo work. This is mounted behind where the kick panel will be. Hopefully it wont be annoyingly loud. To night, June 30, had been my goal date to have the car finished. I finished off the wiring for the wiper motor back to the switch, installed the instrument panel, and went for a drive. I consider this a win. It has got some real get up and go, the brakes actually work pretty good and the steering is OK. The exhaust is too loud, so a balance pipe will get made, the engine idles at about 1200 in drive, I'll have to work that out, and there are still lots of finishing off things to do. Not to mention registration and certification. Here is the view from the drivers seat

Black hole swallowed the rings.. These bits came clunking out of the sump plate.. Not sure if I should pull the whole case to bits or just flush it.. That's where I'm at for now, need to pull the flywheel, shoulda done it before I pulled everything else really. Endplay is. 04mm which is apparently within spec, the other beetle motor has a full 2mm endplay. Prob needs a full rebuild.

My two go-to blasters were having machine issues and I was tired of waiting so I tried blast n bits. He was awesome! Not saying it happens all the time but he coincided his other missions and picked up + dropped them off, had them done in 24hrs despite saying he had a bit of a backlog. $30 cash per centre. the fine machined face I was hoping to preserve on ridges hasn’t shown up very well, maybe under the clearcoat it will accentuate, maybe not. Not the fault of the blasting process. It’s ok though, didn’t want to polish them as the barrels aren’t polished either..slippery slope. I like the flatter look anyway. It’s a sympathetic resto of some tidy old wheels. Then I ruined my already shagged back and shoulders hunched over the table masking them up. will totally paint/powdercoat and have the faces machined in any future. Gonna have a coffee and go spray them

It's been an exciting few weeks getting updates on the car as more gets done. Here's a drop of what's going on at the moment. Not long now! To start with, I deloomed the original headlight hardness, removing odds and ends I won't use on there - Ran another wire which controls the fog lights - Relocated the battery wires to inside the cabin, the battery will sit under the passenger seat. I'll get a professional to do the rest from where I got it to - Relocated the alternator wiring so that I can run it with the engine harness 99399211_272930263826147_7742833918717460480_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr Decided to change the wastegate to a v-band style gate just for a bit more flexibility: 105598043_586600778717591_5386424791277872662_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 106187882_329482148055910_2925692963242702194_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 105597849_266782644422515_6616275111710471338_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr Dump pipe beginning to take shape: 105615022_644681836127246_411711451309123783_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 105556436_270675250862943_1630855409840158444_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 101563946_1663269867160856_6554872224073908224_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 105411255_719960381903781_5357733621582254053_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 105704969_2980500301985349_1671724521810053650_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr Bits and bobs: 101919373_692804254841049_2029492130350628864_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 106179327_3535786496441321_3516887240554195971_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 105491203_307504940295190_1570212433508974404_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr filter setup: 105522170_268305891113464_4252985428165995917_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 105587316_1689267811249447_1407559088842431286_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr BOV to go here: 106248020_2354146954894435_1154358153800778069_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr Money shot: hngggggg 106112383_3220843104625837_1220634764419048857_o by phillipbaines, on Flickr Big plug to Glenn, he's doing a bloody good job! https://www.facebook.com/SyndicateFabrication/ Discussions and feedback is always welcome

Small update, but this actually took me most of the day to get done... Well, after I was done with daddy duty this morning. The majority of the day was reminding myself how the tool and work coordinate offsets are setup on the mill I'm using. Prototrack controller, would not recommend. I'm not a machinist by any stretch of the imagination, but managed to get the crank trigger wheel carved out without too much bother and nothing broken. I still wish the 32 tooth balance shaft pulley would have worked. If I didn't already have a Link Fury ECU for this thing I would have purchased a Life Racing one just so I could have used it, much cleaner solution. The new one weighs within a bee's dick of the original. I could have made it lighter, but I already had an 8mm drill setup, so that's the size speedholes it got. I set the clearance on the sensor. These hall effect ones aren't as sensitive to the gap as VR sensors, as the ASIC's inside them which convert the VR signal to a square wave have auto calibration logic built in. This is why they don't work well with missing tooth setups, as they calibrate to the big signal spike after the missing tooth, and then miss all the regular teeth. Secured the cable with some ties and it's pretty much job jobbed. I've got yet another idea for the cam sync, I think it could work pretty well, but I need to check the rocker cover clearance. I'll put an IP68 cable gland on the back of the head casting and pot / sheath the wiring to make sure it'll live inside the rocker cover. There are a few diesel vehicles out there that have wiring inside the rocker cover, so I reckon it'll be okay :-). It'd be great if I could pass the wiring out of the half-moon seal, but that space is now occupied by the spinny single toothy thing, which would not end well if the two interacted with the motor running. I'll change the wiring on the sensor to some nice ETFE insulated stuff, twist and sheath it in DR25, pass it out the cable gland (which will be sealed in with something... I think maybe threebond?). Then I can set the clearance, loctite the shit out of it and its jam-nut, pot the top and it should be good. Probably. At least till I'm driving it in the pouring rain one evening in a rush on the way home from work because I'm in trouble for staying late to work on cool shit... and then it's bound to shit out... But that's a bridge to look forward to in the future!

Been a little quiet on the LR front.... Been gearing up with some homebuilt tools to manufacture these door skins, I have a bunch of interest from others who want me to make skins, including someone who has just purchased a Forward Control S2 - they are a unique door to that model which should be interesting. Anywho, made a 'mini' door just to confirm my steps. The door handle opening was done by making a hammerform from a 1/2" plate cut to the correct shape, I radiused the edge on it so it would give me the right kind of 'roll over'. Currently have made these from 1200-H14 but might try and get something stiffer next time which will help with dent resistance.

Pulled the heads and barrels today.. One very unloved motor.. Guess which one had 0psi.. Ruh Roh.... Somethings missing..

Pretty much ready to roll, need to weld on muffler and lose the centre stand. Then shakedown followed by a bunch of fixes. Thanks a shit tonne to Goat, Seedy and the general peanut gallery who make an appearance each week to encourage me with farts and general wise cracks... PFT After Summer will be the strip down and tidy up, right now I'm going rat-rod spec.

Both sides have the inner re attached to outer and all the pie cuts stitched up. Lots of triming of the metal flare and managed to tack one side on today. Needed to get it out in the open to have a good look at how its sitting. Starts and finishes in the original body line and is same height measured from quarter glass as original, should be able to make the original wheel arch chrome work with a bit of bending

I am still working on this thing. Took some photos today as I dragged it out of the shed to turn it around to do some work on the drivers side. Don't judge me too harshly, obviously there a lot of things half done on this, but I reckon it's looking good. I call the look Mad Max meets prerunner. Next goal is to get all the bar work finished and drag it in to work to get it blasted and primed so I can put some raptor liner on it.

Heads are fucked.. Cracked, Cracked Crack close up.. Cracked in between spark plug and valve.. These are in the same place on both heads So that's pretty annoying but to be expected.. Gonna have to split the case to clean it out, no point doing this only for it to fail later on so with that in mind stroker crank and 1776 barrels should give me 2007cc. Just have to bore the case but also have to bore any heads that replace these.. might as well get a new set already bored for bigger barrels, 9 hundy for a pair ready to bolt on bar bit of port work I want to do. *sigh* Prob about time for this.. https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74619-yetchhs-more-problems-than-i-expected-bay-kombi/

I've finally got all the chrome off my test light surround. I'm going to take it to Lucentt today to be coated. I'll be super stoked if it comes out good - hopefully I end up being able to use it as the final version.

Signed up and will sort accomodations tomorrow

It's, umm, substantially bigger. Dropped it in the hole, jumped the gun a bit. Needs to go back another 150mm, but need to remove old mounts as the oil filter fouls on them. I'll need to fit a Z700 (Cortina) oil filter for more room. Tunnel appears to have enough clearance. Much better than that other engine

Current levels of foam for this

a bit like this lovely lady did, but only with much better style.... edit; the words that came out of her mouth when she caught me taking the photo....wow. Kevin bloody wilson would have blushed!

Bit of a shakedown run out to Lake Sumner over the weekend. Back in her natural habitat, gravel roads. Went like a champ!

Having set a new direction I started puzzling the next steps. I'm still keen to replace the Thames rear axle with the Toyota. Reasons being greater availability of spares and diff ratios for the Toyota as well as bigger drum brakes. So current thinking is to fit up the diff first and then I can fine tune the front to match by making up some spacers between my newly fabricated front beam mounting brackets and the beam itself. Getting the front beam further away from the chassis gives me the added advantage of dropping the engine and gearbox lower to the ground which not only buys me a lower centre of gravity, but also gives me more clearance between the chassis rail and my clutch slave cylinder which up to now have been in close contact with each other. The gearbox bell housing will also clear the rear wall of the engine box whereas before they were touching and I was looking at having to notch the wall. So all round I'm killing a few birds with a single stone. With this all decided yesterday I set about sorting out the axle perches for the Toyota diff. I took a bit of a short cut by cutting the original Thames mounts off the spare Thames axle that I picked up in New South Wales earlier in the year and that has been languishing in the back of my other HiAce parts van since then. I felt a bit guilty for destroying the old housing, but it's for the greater good. A quick cutty, cutty with my favourite little grinder of angles and I'm half way there. Just need to glue them onto the HiAce axle

So looking at the "path of least resistance" I've decided to stick to something closer to standard road height. Not only does it solve my rubbing front wheels, but it addresses a few other smaller challenges including a steering rag joint that is rubbing on a chassis leg. Someone on the Book of Faces posted a pic of their Thames running on 15 inch diameter Torque Thrust 2s at standard road height. He is running 6Js up front and 7J rears. The 15s fill the arches really nicely. The Torque Thrusts give a similar look to the Dragways, but the chrome on my Dragways is flogged and would cost moonbeams to re-chrome. The Torque Thrusts are alloy so no similar problems going forward.

Quick swap over this morning. Hasn't got a flywheel at the moment, at least I can mock up. Manual setup come out of a dirt car

Do we have a backup bike sorted or should I chuck a new belt on smokey sue mk2 for 55kph of small wheeled punishment

Tamed some birds and welded the mufflers on It idles okay but is super rich and backfires Will have a yarn with weber specs at some point and get a idea on what jets I need Yeah she's rich I need to weld up some hangers and wack another flange in so it's easier to remove and refit and weld up a tail pipe

More back panel progress this weekend.

A quick look around the $2-shop for something suitable and this popped up. Yip, I can work with this...snip, snip, snip... Tadah...

So yeah new bike is really cool. Need to stop spending $$$$ now and sell some shit.

With it's bum back on the wheels I gave it a few bounces and then let it settle overnight. In the morning I grabbed my measuring tape and was able to confirm that the back is sitting about 7 mm higher than original. I then played around with some temporary spacers between the Starwagon front beam and the Thames chassis. Took a few goes to get the optimum height and again I gave the front a few hefty bounces and let it settle overnight. Result is that I am back to more or less the original ride height before I started the conversion. From the start of this project I have been hoping to dial in some low, so this isn't where I had originally planned to end up. But sometimes when you can't find an easy solution its best just to learn to love the problem, and I can with all honesty state that over the last two days I have learned to love the problem. Reasons being as follows: Engine and gearbox are now almost 80 mm closer to the ground than original setup. Original 4Y carbie now fits perfectly under the floor so I have the choice of running the original Aisan or a 32/36 Weber or the SU on its snorkle manifold. Steering rag joint no longer clashes with chassis leg. Side mounted selector levers on the gearbox are in a much better position. The lower selector clears the chassis leg completely and the top selector should be easier to sort out. I can run 15 inch diameter rims with the same profile tyres which will drop overall revs slightly at cruising speed. Front wheels happily clear the front doors with plenty of gap for suspension travel and steering. Gearbox bell housing clears the rear wall of the engine box. Clutch slave cylinder is now way below chassis leg. Some things are just meant to be. I've pulled the front beam out once again and have started making up some templates for the front beam spacers that I'm going to fabricate out of 8mm plate. Thanks for reading. Pic of dirty old Aisan carbie back on the mock up engine.

Yeah that'll be appreciated Today's gc award goes to Jarrod at the mount shop Henderson. Mega friendly helpful dude. I ordered a set of mounts so the engine might actually stay contained. Ordered at lunch and they were delivered by the end of the day. Pic of mounts as text is boring Cdl auto parts also have jets to suit the 34adm and were nice and helpful on the phone unlike a certain specialist. Once I figure out what jets I need I'll be ordering off them

For some reason this thing came with the wrong alternator pulley. It had a 13A belt pulley and the rest of the engine needs an 11A belt so I ordered a new dual row pulley from franklin engineering. Top notch stuff they make and seriously reasonable prices for quality Nz made products. Ordered an oil sender block at the same time to run my oil pressure and temp gauge senders. Will fit that in the next couple of days.

Thought I may as well do an update on this thing, tore apart the new engine a few weeks ago and looks good internally, another one i suspect spun some rod bearings but thankfully no other damage. Have acquired almost everything I need for stock rebuild except new piston rings ( if anyone knows where to find some please let me know), so once I get those and have done a valve job on the head it should all go back together quite quickly. I now have shelfs full of parts I need to work through cleaning, polishing, painting, and or replacing. This weekend Ive manged to clean and paint the block and I painted exhaust manifold after sandblasting it at work. Its only a small achievement but it's got me amped for everything that comes next! Cheers everyone

Entrants, as of 28-06-2020 6:30pm @johnnyfive Daniel, aka Ruckus guy, aka Grom guy. @GuyWithAviators @UTERUS @MopedNZ @TimShadboltfan27 Shannon D Daniel W @Shakotom @Threeonthetree @Tumeke Brudda @Tumeke @keltik @Vintage Grumble @Truenotch @Mr Vapour @tortron @WankBankA100 @BLIZZO @anglia4 @mark105 @RUNAMUCK @Duke Blackwood @HighLUX @Mitch.W @Beaver @00quattro00

Got a plate to remind me of what I should really be focusing on every day! Disclaimer: I wouldnt normally buy a personalised plate. But in CA they are only $50 so why not.

As much gravel as possible. This front tire is pretty weak but i have the mt21's to go on next. Swapped the rear spring yesterday as the new one was super heavy. Managed to set the static and loaded sag and they both came out perfect so total win there. Now have to swap over the steering dampener from old to new bike. It's pretty powerful compared to what im used to- be lying if i said it wasn't intimidating at times. I had to give it twist to a avoid a car that hadn't indicated on a roundabout, holy hell it can move fast when you ask it to.

Went to buzz bug this arvo to borrow a kombi Bell housing, ended up with a small pocket haemorrhage... Also did a compression test.. front two cylinders 125 each, not bad, Rear two 90 and...0. There's ya problem.

Much success! Got a VIN, Wof and Reg today! All ticked off and ready to roll. Now time for a few mods, Artillieries, whitewalls, hub caps and beauty rings Split manifold and exhaust Fit the Fulton Visor Lower Then she be ready for summer cruising.

Both back sections of the floor done. Has an exhaust tunnel through it to suit a duel 2" system, should be able to tuck it right up above the chassis rails. Sills and chassis rails are now the lowest point in the middle section of the car. Made a rear strut brace to strengthen the upper shock mounts and to accommodate the extra load of coilovers. Made the exhaust tunnel through the front foot well too. Notched out the crossmember above the diff for clearance. Made a mount for a Wilwood pedal box, need to figure out where to put the reservoirs and move the accelerator pedal over a little. Raised the spare wheel well up 60mm to fit a larger fuel tank. Was a good chance to also drill out the spot welds on that centre mount and tidy up the rust that was forming in between.

Chuur, at this stage we have a willing MaxPower and Thphantum, which should probably cover it, maybe, hopefully, probably.

terrible timing (on my part, i should have considered this!) but we have a little one due on the 9th of Dec... and with Lexys history, there is no way i'm going to be able to make this one sorry. And i was even planning on riding this time hahahaha

It's CHCH... ...someone must have a TE72 with bolt on flares attached to the bottom of the factory flare, rolling on Performance Wheels Spitfires and Eagers?

Here it it. 4.0l SOHC Falcon out of a AU3. Done a Derby. $50 Special. Also have a dirty Holley 4bbl and a turbo off something to go along with it. Have manual bellhousing and 3 speed up it's bum.

This arrived today! I always wanted a really nice wooden steering wheel for a classic and after uming and ahing over a nardi I decided to go with this momo Indy. I think it looks the part. A shame the rest of the interior doesn’t match yet. also found some inspiration for what I would like to do with wheels and jdm lip.