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  1. its all coming together nicely. i had a fault with the idle speed controller which turned out to be a short in the loom so i fixed that. i needed more travel in the clutch to fully disengage it so i changed the master to a 13/16 bore and its perfect now. honestly the clutch is like your driving a corolla, its that good. so i have been doing some Ks in it to bed the clutch before the dyno on Friday and everything is working perfectly, im super stoked with it all. i cant really give it any stick because the tune is wrong for this turbo and it might shit itself so im being gentle. which sucks. the other thing i did was make a tool to aid adjusting the cams during the dyno session on firday. its really hard to see what your doing and its hard to accurately adjust them so im hoping this tool will make life easier. 2021-08-01_04-21-50 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-42 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-26 by sheepers, on Flickr 2021-08-01_04-21-33 by sheepers, on Flickr
    33 points
  2. Fenders Painted and Fitted Up. Fitted up a moon disc to the alloy wheel too. And the Painted peaked bonnet.
    32 points
  3. Runner system pattern complete. Re sprayed everything with the better mould release. All patterns ready to go now. Next will be testing out the new sand resin system to figure out ratios and work times. Dont really want to go all in with a 200kg batch first go!
    29 points
  4. Time to have another go Got almost a ton of sand, new resin system and a new insulating spray for the moulds (meant to help big thin castings). Planning to use a concrete mixer to do larger batches. Doing some repairs to the damaged patterns. Drilled holes in the print and injected concrete epoxy. Also adding a few bond on thread plates to hopefully get a slide hammer on.
    27 points
  5. I did not complete the two week challenge but I'm still chipping away. Aidan at Pine Engineering sent me these photos of the br-x completed last night @BobbyBreeze was kind enough to lend me a centre cap to replicate also which are just off being anodized I have a new set of Yokohama A539 in 175/60 and 185/60 at home ready to go also
    26 points
  6. So after seeing the gumboot rally guys planning a hektik drive from chch to Hanmer and back over the course of a weekend in a few months, it got a few of us thinking, we can do better than this. Much better. So thinking top gear spec shit car Roady. In undie 500 fashion, purchasing cars for less than $500 to complete a full loop of the south island over 3 days. In teams of 2. Challenging ourselves to do it as cheap as possible. Think camping/sleeping in cars spec. We'll come up with a points system for most unreliable brands getting extra points, frugalness, selling at the end of the trip etc. This is by no means a fundraising type thing. Just a bunch of us who want to take shithouse cars round the south island to show it can be done. If anyone is interested in joining, please make yourself known below. Aiming for sometime in the Xmas holidays as it's when most of us will have time off. Chur.
    19 points
  7. Trans adapter time. As mentioned earlier the 722.6 doesn't bolt up to a M180/M127/M129/M130 engine even through the bolt patterns look very similar (with the inline engine version of a 722.6 bellhousing at least). So I had a conundrum on how to go about this, taking into consideration things like starter location, ring gear location, keeping things concentric, making sure the torque convertor is seated once its all together etc. There's several things that ended up providing the answer for me. Firstly the starter; On the M130 the starter is on the right hand side of the engine, the factory sandwich plate that sits between the engine and gearbox has a provision for the starter. however on the 722.6 trans the starter clearance bulge is on the the left hand side. So which side of the motor do you want your starter? if you scroll up a post of two you'll see the oil filter housing sits on the left hand side of the motor, right where the starter would be, so you can't make use of the 722.6s starter mount. In which case you're now using the engines OG starter, which means you'll want to keep the ring gear in the original location... So I yoinked the manual trans off that engine and too some measurements and drew some circles in Fusion360 Then realized I'd mucked up the overall diameter of the thing, luckily this was prior to sending away files to the laser cutters. Sent some files off and they sent back some lumps of metal Have a 12mm spacer for the end of the crank, and a 3mm thick flexplate, plan is to scavenge one of the ring gears off the manual flywheels I have and weld that to the flexplate. I spent a rainy Sunday attempting to measure the bolt pattern for both the engine and the trans and had a test piece cut out of 3mm plate at the same time (the disc on the left) if my measurements were right I was going to get a thicker one cut and run that but you can see from the ticks and crosses on it only about a 1/3 of the holes lined up. Ended up getting a 12mm thick piece laser cut (the disc on the right) that utilized one of the factory dowel pins on the trans, that was to be my starting point. clamped precariously in place, the OD was large enough to blank off the now unneeded starter bulge on the left hand side Went around and marked out the holes I'd be using that didn't clash with any of the holes I would need on the sandwich plate, tapped one of them using the shitty tap set I had before buying a Volkel tap set based on someone on heres recommendation, holy moley did that improve my outlook on life. Whoever made that recommendation deserves an ice cream. Ended up here: Jealous of my phone? Whilst doing that the torque convertor was sitting on the bench next to the trans, at some point I moved the trans and knocked the converter onto the floor which caused a drama for later on but we won't talk about that. Did some maths at this point. Decided if I wanted to run a 12mm thick adapter plate I'd need to reduce the thickness of the sandwich plate by ~11mm, a buddy came through and was able to do that for me, I have a spare plate if this doesn't work out, comparing the two post surgery: That's the relatively easy side done, next step was to join that to the engine whilst keeping the trans concentric to the crank (well as much as I could anyway). There's a small win here in that the OD of the pilot on the torque convertor is the same as the ID on the end of that crank where the pilot bearing would normally go for the original manual trans (35mm). I carried this measurement over to the ID of the crank spacer so the Torque convertor could locate on it, the spacer picks up the OG dowel pin on the end of the crank so based on that assumption of it being a straight line I bolted the spacer up to the crank and slid the trans up to it, docking the torque convertor pilot in the hole. Took a brave pill and wiggled it so the trans looked straight up and down against the engine, rather than tipped to one side, and marked out the two holes for the starter then drilled and tapped those. Bolted everything back together, so far everything is lining up. took the trans off, leaving the adapter bolted to the sandwich plate on the engine, removed these two as one: Was then able to flip it over, mark out some holes and drill and tap those. Then the moment of truth, putting it all together... Booyah! that shit is attached. Had to do a bit of fettling but was bugger all. I need to change the blade on my vertical bandsaw so I can trim the excess off the OD of the adapter. Current issue is that its too tight between the flexplate and the converter, they rotate as one without being bolted together. We didn't get exactly 11mm off the plate when we machined it down, it ended up being about 11.2mm which I think is part of where the problem is, it's bringing the trans and engine too close together, in hindsight I probably should have aimed for 10mm. I think to get around this I might skim a bit off the end of the converter so it can sit further inside the bellhousing when seated, but I'm not sure how much clearance the input shaft of the trans should have inside the converter before it bottoms out, surely 1mm less isn't the end of the world? Anyone got any insight?
    19 points
  8. Main inner core done. 75kg It removes from the patterns so much easier than last time. Now need to do the largest one at 230kg. No idea how thats going to go! Added a lift point as that helped last time.
    17 points
  9. Did the bellhousing part using the mortar mixer. Gave me atleast a 45min work time on a hot day. Probably 3x as long as the last resin system. Picked up a 6cuft concrete mixer. El Camino for scale. Mixed 70kg for the runner system mould without much issue. Wasnt a perfect mix but I have time to leave it mixing for quite a bit longer. So will try that first.
    17 points
  10. Doing 2 sprues/filters on this one which each feed one side of the casting. There will be more volume but also the mould is higher with no basin which will give more pressure. Completed the box. Quicker and cleaner than the last one. Next will be the runner system pattern/box.
    16 points
  11. Made a start on the rear quarter/rear arch - the arch has had me nervous for a while, pleased with how it's come out so far.
    16 points
  12. Oh yeah! Rebuilt and sleeved to standard spec by Powerstop, so hopefully we should feel ALL the dual-diaphragm assisted Chrysler luxuriousness a poor man needs
    13 points
  13. Remember how my master cylinder was rooted and pulled all the fluid into the booster? shane at powerstop brakes cleaned it up, reassembled and tested it after another shop tore it apart and quoted the earth to repair. He’s sleeving the master for me too. I’ve ordered another pcv valve. super stoked, Look him up for classic and modern/ABS brake solutions!
    12 points
  14. So I have been waiting for essential parts to arrive from overseas and have been keeping myself busy with little things. The manifolds are all fitting nicely and all I need to do is trim the carburetor flange to size so it looks a little more attractive. I will wait until I have the carburetor mocked up in place before I do this to make sure I don't run into any clearance issues with the throttle and transmission linkages etc. It all ended up fitting very neatly around the strut tower and the carb should end up in a reasonable position with sufficient hood clearance. I also decided to fit larger fuel lines as the factory ones seemed very small. This is probably more for the future but since I am installing an electric fuel pump now I figured it was best to do the fuel lines as well. I removed the factory 1/4 inch return line from the car, and from the tank pick up assembly, and replaced it with a larger line that will become the fuel feed line. The original 5/16 fuel line will become the return. Bending all that hard line into the correct shape to fit with the factory lines was a challenge but it all turned out pretty well and looks neat and tidy installed in the car. I had to pull the driveshaft out to get access but no big deal.
    11 points
  15. Shed has been a mess for 4 years at least. Started as organised clutter then progressed to utter shambles. Took most of the weekend, and a few hours tonight. But it is nearly ready for car again. Done one trip to the dump already, have to take some waste oil/dirty fuel containers to work to empty out. And move a few things to the garden shed. Nearly have room for the tv too!
    11 points
  16. Bags packed for a no stopping pickup from Brock lee.
    10 points
  17. pics Haven't done much glue sniffing lately, finished the 88 mm, just the weathering to do now but apart from that, nuffin. /pics Needs a diorama so I guess that's next.
    10 points
  18. This brace wasn’t bracing shit any longer. It’s quick and ugly cause it’s largely hidden by vents
    10 points
  19. I have been picking away at the cabin of an evening, which got me thinking about camping trips and spare wheels. So I thought I had better make provision for one, and later, two; It's a bit flexi, which it probably needs as it is bolted to both the cab and deck, but it might bang on the roof if I hit a bump. I'll go for a run and see how it goes, I'll probably wedge some padding underneath, it's pretty close. Even though you can't tell the cabin is now covered with 3 diffey thicknesses of three different types of material, ie a $100 sheet of 2mm ACM, $20 sheets of 3mm foamed PVC, and free sheets of 4mm foamed fuck knows what packaging material. It looks way better in the pics than it actually is. Nevertheless I ordered a few hundred dollars worth of hardware from Comac today, this will give me lift struts and locking doors and allow me to clamp it to the deck, yay. That's all for now.
    9 points
  20. I havnt had a fan on this for a while as all my viscous are either siezed or nof doinh anything so i took it off so it didnt sound like a van Carfully route planning and nof sitting in traffic was the key to not overheating it. Anyways. I had the radiator record recently and at the same time i got the shop to put a bung for a temp switch in. So tonight i put an electric fan in it Its actually out of a 1992 galant out in field
    8 points
  21. Did a trial fit of a 7.5 a type which has the same wheel bolt face to outer lip dimension as the wider pair
    8 points
  22. Taking Felicity out to get a drink from the local liquor shop and an angry sounding beautiful XT pulled in behind. Couldn't resist a photo. Much excited as time for exhaust and sundry bits of fabrication!
    7 points
  23. Something something something maybe I'll get it together this weekend
    7 points
  24. Well it didnt 100% work. But it could definitely be fixed with a welder! It didnt fill fast enough and there wasnt enough pressure. So they had to frantically fill from one of the riser holes to try save it. In doing that there is a big section of cold lap and a big hole! So the changes would be to have 2 filling sprues in the middle of the casting. Then increase the head pressure a little bit. The bowl I had in the sprue was way too big and reduced the head pressure. For the most part it looks pretty good. All the finer details are there. No cores collapsed or shifted, no shrinking of any areas so I dont need to worry about chill blocks. El Camino for scale. Going to have to figure out an easier way to do this in the shed. Was way too much work!
    7 points
  25. Linkage kit installed I need to shorten the balancing tab between carbs to fit the front one on. I need to grind down the boss on the second runner so the carbs can slide back, would also like to shave 5mm off both surfaces of manifold to gain 10mm clearance from carbs to van body (currently both flanges are 13mm thick each and overall manifold 54mm thick.
    6 points
  26. Last time I bought some , the most economical way was to get them from super cheap But yes, snug fit in the holes, and not longer in the shank than the wheel is thickness wise And steel washers. Also if you are getting close to bottoming out the nut, make sure the wheel stud doesn't taper out at the bottom. I've seen that happen and the nut got stretched bigger at the shank end, making it very difficult to get back out of the wheel...
    6 points
  27. So in echo related updates, Picking up the new wheels from swap meet this weekend, big thanks to @Goat who is bringing them along! I also picked up box full of C56 internals including a torsen LSD. Big thanks to my mate Ken for this. LSD will be glorious! But I have a decision to make. The "proper" way to install it is to sit the box on a bench with bellhousing facing down. Then disassemble the box from the far side and remove the gearsets and detents and everything to eventually get to the ring gear and diff center. But this is like, you've got some food stuck in your teeth but you can only reach it by sticking a broom up your arse. There's a bodgey way where you can remove the front cover only, looks fiddly as fuck but saves a big headache (maybe) So I'll give this method a try on my C152 box first to test the practicality of it. I hate working on gearboxes so I'm torn between taking the long/proper way, or the potentially short but fiddly way. Historically speaking, trying to take any shortcuts usually leads to misery and having to do things the proper way anyway. Also my alternator situation has been nothing short of a miserable headache that's stopping me from driving the car currently. It was fine when I first installed the bracket and tensioner, but it would squeak a little bit sometimes. Eventually my shitty tensioner broke, so I made a better one with the aim of eliminating the squeak. Didnt work, it still sqoke. Rechecked belt alignment, fine tuned it to be as exact as I could. Pinged belt up tighter. Squeals like a stuck pig. Eventually my alternator bracket broke. So I got the local workshop to jizz it back up with some welds. Then it was fine for a little bit, then started squealing in an incredibly annoying manner and hasnt stopped since. I found that the bracket had bent, for I think the same reason it broke initially. The alternator has a sliding sleeve of sorts that pulls inwards to tighten the alternator to the bracket, where the bolt threads in. If it's a bit rusty (they all are) it doesnt move too freely, so takes a lot of force to pull it back in. I CRCd it a bunch and hammered it in and out to free it up a bit. But when you crank the shit out of it to tighten it up, it's trying to crush my bracket before its trying to pull that end bit in. Also I think another potential problem is that the original motor has 3 accessories on it. Aircon pump, waterpump, then alternator. The belt path means theres maybe 190-200 deg worth of belt wrap on the alternator. But if you run just from the pulley to the alternator, there's only ~160ish degrees of belt wrap. So then you need to tighten the belt heaps to try make up for it - then you have issues with things bending or breaking especially when rpm is high and maybe some harmonics stuff coming into play. Then the short belt length probably doesnt help either. So at the moment I'm torn between trying again with another alternator bracket, or just calling it quits on this motor. Evenutally I need/want to get an NHW20 prius motor so I can run VVTI, bolts to gearbox properly, and then I can use the factory bracket to fit an alternator on. With extra belt wrap and belt length because it's back to a mechanical waterpump. But I'd like to compare notes to this existing engine first, hopefully get both on a dyno and see how much difference the compression ratio difference makes (or not) The NHW20 motor is funny because the only thing running off the accessory belt is the waterpump, which then runs on the non V side of the belt. So the only thing running on the Vs of the belt is an idler where the alternator usually goes... But it can definitely fit an alternator there, as the block is the same part number as a normal 1NZ motor. Pretty frustrated at the moment as it's a really unfun sort of problem to deal with, and I dont really have any tools or ability to fix it myself.
    6 points
  28. Yeh so I haven't driven the off-roader since a week or so before the initial covid lockdown, and still haven't finished the trailer, but I did just make a terrible financial decision, probably induced by severe sleep deprivation, but hey, these things happen. So a customer of mine offered me an unused pair of 10" travel FOX factory racing remote res coil overs, at basically half the new cost. I then priced up a second pair to match, and the eight springs I need to go with them. Not surprisingly it got very expensive. The new second hand shocks, plus another matching pair, plus all the required springs was going to be north of $3600. I also thought about doing a mixed set up with FOX air shocks on the front, and these coil overs on the back, but my OCD wouldn't allow it. So, I've ordered a full set of FOX 2.0 10" travel air shocks (Basically the cheapest decent shocks you can get for this sort of application) and you don't have the added cost of springs. These are way too flash for this thing, but I have a cunning plan. So because I am basically going to cut the front and back ends off the current offroader for all these suspension and drive line upgrades, and because the cockpit is a little small for me, I've decided I will build a new frame from scratch, and then sell the current offroader to possibly pay for a more modern (EFI hopefully) engine (or just use the spare 600). Because SXS's have become so popular, a few motorbike parks are having SXS days, so I will actually have legit places to use this, which makes me happy. Now to finish the other trillion jobs I have to do, so I can play with this thing sometime in the future. Regards, VG.
    6 points
  29. Got the local exhaust shop to bend some pipe for me so I could replace the crusty exhaust. Couldn't find a ball & socket joint to match the manifolds so decided to just weld the new pipes directly to the manifolds. One less flange to leak is a good thing. Pulled the manifolds off to weld everything up after tacking it in place and discovered one spark plug was mega loose. I unscrewed it and saw this.... Now those plugs were new.... maybe 10 hours of running. I'm not 100% sure if I blew it to bits by running mega lean with those crappy injectors or if there's other things going on here. Had a look at the piston which seemed to be ok. Did a compression test to make sure there were no bits missing and all the other cylinders were around 190-200psi. This one was down to 100. Put the leak-down tester onto it and sure enough, the valves weren't sealing very well at all. So I think I've either burned up a valve seat or since the back side of the exhaust valve is pretty crusty, perhaps this one has been sat open the last few months and got some crap on it. After careful consideration, the plan is to reassemble everything and carry out another compression check once it's been run for a while. Then I can decide if it's worth fitting my spare head.
    6 points
  30. This is what $150 ish gets you in old xplod gear It's not entirely period correct, but that's fine. Because I'm retarded I spent extra to not only get a 10cd stacker, but then extra to get a head unit with a proper input for said CD stacker, tho I think I could have hacked a lesser head-unit to run one easy enough. But this one has front and rear L/R outputs too 1000w amp 1300w sub I have no idea where any of this will fit without taking up folding flat boot space, I may have to make some rear quarter pods, put the stacker in the glove box, and the amp under a seat or something. Current sound system is some after market head unit, factory 6x9s in the D pillars and I'd guess factory 4-6" in the front door panels. Probably just upgrade the front speakers and bridge the rear to the sub. But still...... I want flashing lights and a fibreglass pod that takes up the whole back
    6 points
  31. Got some more things fixed she's getting better I got an entire manual conversion but keeping her auto for now. Today is fixing small things like alarm made it hard to start sometimes must be a loose connection then door lock was jamming locked and suspension knock which was wheel bearings
    6 points
  32. Not much progress at the moment, waiting on some transmission bearings and case sealant to arrive but other things are under way. I sourced some of these things Which will let me use the bigger one of these. Stock on the SR is a 28mm carby, dirt 200 is 35mm. The SR has oil injection through a port in the inlet rubber, the new inlet I will use doesn't have this as the 35mm carbs are used on premix only bikes. So I'll drill an unused boss on the carb and feed it in through there.
    5 points
  33. Thanks OS! A box of grommets was just delivered. Not sure who you are? Not latex rubber/silicone for a change. (Which is the norm for mystery packages from OS users)
    5 points
  34. holy heck, 3 days away!! Catch you all in the Lounge Bar at the Ding !!
    5 points
  35. And @Slacker_Sam. and @azzar have bought this fine hyundai sonata with the big block 3.0v6
    5 points
  36. Deck complete, fencing done. Schedule has us completed next week with asphalted driveway ready for my landscaper. Very close to getting this back on the market....
    5 points
  37. 5 points
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