Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/11/21 in all areas

  1. For ages I have wanted a small tool bench with decent wheels I could wheel across our rocky yard for working on cars/trucks/tractors outside. Its always been on the back of my mind to build but I never got around to it. Earlier this year a retired friend gave us a load of old tools and workshop stuff including his old tool cabinet. It was pretty beat up and had tiny little wheels but the drawers work really well. So now I had a base to start with. NZ made. Guessing its 80's going by the font on the sticker. NZ made wheels too... I started with the build by hacking it apart... Luckily the drawers bit I wanted was self contained.. I had kept a section of old stainless steel bench top left over from some project I cant remember. It was missing one end but I had a plan and it was always going to be used for my ideal toolbox design.. I cleaned it all up, removed all the tar like glue that was on the underside and cut, bent and welded up the other end to match. I also welded up a drain hole it had.. I ripped down some eucalypt timber and cut it into an angle profile then used it to edge the stainless, now glued onto a sheet of ply. So with the top sorted I started on a frame. I needed some wheels and I had just the ticket. I have had these two wheels stashed away from when I did my apprenticeship back in the mid 90s. I was building a scooter that used a weedeater motor but never finished it. I had thrown away the rest but kept these new wheels. I still had the bearings they came with too. I machined the ends of some thick pipe to suit and made an axle... I bought some 100mm castor wheels with locks for the back from Mitre 10. Now a frame to mount them on. I rummaged through the steel rack and found suitable stuff to use... The drawers sit in place like such... I removed the handles and Hannah cleaned the drawers up so I could lob some paint at them.. Now I could start cladding it in plywood, using stuff left over from the mezzanine build. I had a pair of 500mm drawer runners from Bunnings left over from the kitchen build. Handy for a large drawer below the others.. Folded up a bit of sheet steel for the front... Made some stainless handles to match the others... And this is where I am up to so far... My next thing to sort out is the slide up section that all my spanners will go on. Then some handles, and finish the top cover that will be hinged so it can open out doubling the top area and exposing the stainless tray. We've already had some fun today going to Bunnings and Mitre10 selecting a few tools to add, the idea being I can almost clear the work bench area fully of car related tools. Itching to get back into finishing this now
    12 points
  2. It's been an unproductive few months whilst I mull around and not get a chance to drive to Palmy to get to work on the old girl A while ago I bought one of those weld-on idle control valves and got one of my mates to apply glue to the MRP manifold, it's come out really nice 20210815_113119 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20210815_113412 by phillipbaines, on Flickr I spent a weekend going over everything. - Made the AN lines for the catch can setup - Disassemble the turbo and clean out all the crud left over from when the manifold face was machined - Heat wrap the exhaust manifold and down pipe (i didn't take a photo... idiot) - Ran the vacuum lines for the turbo - Refitted the Intake Manifold - Tighten every bolt 20211023_180622 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211023_180752 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211025_150642 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211025_150655 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211025_150703 by phillipbaines, on Flickr I've messaged Geoff at NZ Wiring and Performance and looking to get this bad boy wired end of January hopefully! This will give me time to: - Replace the fuel hose from the fuel rail to the supply line (it's not fuel hose and it's all perished...) - Replace the fuel filter - Check the driveline angles since the gearbox crossmember was recreated and ensure that we've got around 2 degree's each side of the driveshaft for a smooth ride. will space the crossmember or adjust the top 4-links, which ever requires a tinkering - Finish the vaccuum line for the master cylinder booster Discussion:
    9 points
  3. It begins The air is thick with anticipation....and 2smoke
    9 points
  4. Bring a big bike. Itl be fun they said. Smallbikes4life
    8 points
  5. More of the same suspension stuff. I bought the rubber top mounts, they were cheaper from palmside than the other place, and cheaper than the adjustables. these have a replaceable bearing too if needby, so, win. had to drill the bushing out to 12mm new bumpstops courtesy of Mr.Mk1 who I met yesterday. its great to know new people. cleaning and painting stuff, I went with blue in homage to the race teams and works cars of the day that ran bilstein shocks. pointless ultimately, but slightly more interesting than the standard rattle can black. still only have 1 side done though but I'll do the other side tomorrow. Boom. theres nothing like showing off to the Wof guy.
    7 points
  6. 7 points
  7. First breakdown about 10km into Motu. Brake drum reaction rod fell off locking the rear wheel. LOVELY SPOT FOR IT
    6 points
  8. Picked it up, took it home. Then retired back down to Wellington. 20211106_153031 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211106_153045 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211106_153105 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211106_153117 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Next on the todo list: - Tidy up all the panel gaps #1 priority - Purchase an MRP coil over kit all round - Purchase some semi slicks - Get a wheel alignment - Replace inner and outer rack ends Potentially on the todo list: - Price up a full suspension kit minus coil overs from T3 (LCA's, RCA's etc) Discussion:
    6 points
  9. As soon as I got the car I parked it up and dropped it off to me old mate @EmmyWest for a respray. it's a race car, I didn't want a show shine finish. Just for it to all be one nice colour, dents filled in etc. It's come out looking the absolute tits! 253199270_419318406502845_5729871740650857656_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 252763221_6236169743121377_4668944236914090276_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 252890840_1504851166542741_5343298070745770442_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 252904427_248725857275510_2033562718651960891_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 252927486_422076212848588_8398122880327394024_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 253086554_3157587697815542_2606469033873125234_n by phillipbaines, on Flickr 20211106_103237 by phillipbaines, on Flickr
    6 points
  10. Minky is now under the knife. She's on the hoist and Hannah is taking her heart out. While up in the air I took the chance to snap some photos of her undercarrige. This is the first time we've actually put her on the hoist and looked underneath. WOW! She's sooo tidy and in such fantastic condition! Even the exhaust looks almost new... Here's the lowering springs. I have no idea what make they are but they are red so they must be fast... While Hannah was draining the autobox oil out.... I spotted a very exciting thing... Most JDM Marches normally have a daft arrangement where the fixed part of the caliper is cast into the strut bottom which means you can't swap in bigger/better calipers and appropriately sized bigger discs. The front brakes on this car are different to our other two cars (those two being PFL Marches) This car has front sliding calipers that mount to the struts in the usual fashion, like most cars, with two bolts. This is also the same setup that European K11 Micra have. This is fantastic news! The one thing that lets a hard driven march down is the brakes which are a bit lacking, especially on long descents like Takaka 'race' hill. I cooked the brakes on both our pfls down there. But with the Euro spec front brakes we can swap in the larger discs and calipers from a Sentra/Primera/'insert some common as muck nissan here' So yeah- happy about that !
    4 points
  11. Done a bit more wiring stuff. Chucked the battery in it, was keen to see if the clutch was working. Had it turning over in neutral, then in 1st..then tried with the clutch in..... Yay no movement.. Then tried letting the clutch out.. She's snappy, but works. So then I got keen and tried firing it up.. She ran... Too fn loud though. Exhaust is next on the list.. But it runs and moves... Pumped Now I need to figure out how to wire up this fan relay and temp switch.
    4 points
  12. Can you guys have lots of pink pussies in my honour please.
    4 points
  13. Have a bloody good time lads ! Keep up the posts and photos for all us of to envy ! Let the good times roll
    4 points
  14. Clutch line sorted..... But... The pedal is real hard to depress. The slave is like a 3/4" bore and the master is the factory hunter one, probably 1-1/8" so I'm guessing it's poorly matched and just being gay. Or just a super heavy pressure plate. However I now have a nice -3 AN line for it. It's getting pretty close to being done. I'll swap the suspension from the other car to this one, cos the rear shocks work, and the fronts are tight with proper lowering springs, I'll swap the whole leg along with the brake hoses because I'm sure the ones on this have collapsed.
    4 points
  15. Some pest has vandalized this bike Also vandalized an ankle but the hospital has signs saying no cameras.
    3 points
  16. Hello there. I've recently acquired this new vehicle amongst my Toyota fleet! Tuned 4A-GE 16v Black top with C52 gearbox on a Link Monsoon Photos supplied at time of purchase: IMG20210418170326 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164130 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164140 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164154 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164203 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164217 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164318 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418164338 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418165839 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG20210418170151 by phillipbaines, on Flickr IMG_20200607_152650 by phillipbaines, on Flickr
    3 points
  17. If anyone is wanting to build an EFI system there is a whole load of high quality, ruggedised EFI gear for sale from martin jetpacks right now: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/search?member_listing=326563&bof=9qt4vnAL&page=3 All $1 res
    3 points
  18. Smoothed it out with some body filler and found that well beyond the repair needs some smoothing too. That was the last of the pitted rust. So I guess I'm blocking now.
    3 points
  19. Pickapart reopened yesterday in Auckland, and there was a mad rush for all of the good stuff! I have never seen it so busy, queueing to get in, car park full, big queue getting out. Bloody hot day too, I think I suffered a bit of sunstroke in my mad rush to grab the good shit! (this was only a small part of my parts haul below BTW, lots of parts for my race car were had too!) Anyway, the point of this trip was to get some better brakes for the Mk1. They have always been a bit scary - anything more than moderate pedal pressure will lock up the rears, not ideal! After some measuring, I discovered that the rear pistons on the Lincoln calipers were 65mm, whereas the fronts on the old Falcon XA calipers were only 61mm. The brake discs are similar size front to rear. So it actually has more braking on the rear than the front, which explains its tendency to lock the rears, not ideal for any car, especially a van with a relatively light rear end ! So, the solution I reckon will work is Mk4 Mondeo rear calipers with integral handbrake, discs and cables for the back end, and AU3 Falcon 2 pot front calipers, which will fit nicely on my existing slotted DBA rotors. I will rebuilt and paint them, and need to make some suitable mounting brackets, but hopefully that should sort the brake issues! All for around $250 https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45289-browndogs-1972-v8-transit/page/4/
    3 points
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
  22. my 2c - for the home handyman type stuff straight co2 is the best. Downsides: -It has its limitations in that it wont spray transfer, most little welders probably won't get there anyway. -about 5-10% more splatter (in my limited experience) -Probably other things, I'm not an expert Upsides: -owner bottles in the form of fire extinguisher bottles are cheap, usually around the $300 mark full. -it stores as a liquid unlike argoshield mixes. this means that you fit a whole lot more in the bottle. This is a massive upside in my book, when I want to run mig I want it to be cheap. -Last fill I got was at gaspro, cost $45, a lot better than the $130 swappa bottles for argosheild. The chap there said its $10 per kg, its a 5kg cylinder but it was a bit too warm to get the whole 5kg in one hit that day. -Apparently runs a bit hotter than argosheild mixes would for the same amperage on short circuit mig. For little machines this might be handy. In saying that I haven't had any issues welding panel steel either so not an issue for rust repairs. I have put a good number of hours on the mig over the last few years, built a couple of trailers and lots of random crap with co2 and haven't had any cracks/breakages or weld related issues. I guess the caveat is that I also have a tig so if I want a fancy weld I can use the tig but generally I use mig for most fabrication type things. Also, I'm just a guy in a shed sticking stuff together for fun so I don't really know what I'm talking about hahaha.
    2 points
  23. Possibly not want you want to achieve but I'll add it anyway, on my townace I blocked the egr it didnt idle very well after that so I removed the throttle plate but left the actuator and shaft there all hooked up so the ecu thought it was working It ran a lot better and used less diesel
    2 points
  24. Found this weird rust as I stripped the windscreen area. Was a bit difficult to patch for me because the top skin of the roof just wanted to drop as soon as the tension got taken from it. I went back over it and tried taking little parts at a time but it simply wouldn't hold that edge. Ended up creating a bit of a valley along there.
    2 points
  25. Time to make things look pretty and rustproof the chassis for its next 70 years. There was some surface rust on the rear of the chassis rails that needed to be put in its place. A couple of cups of washing soda crystals…. Add some water and connect a power supply….. Some hours later – rust soup! And no rust.
    2 points
  26. Shit that's a good job on snapping the fork
    1 point
  27. Twin butterfly throttlebody in these older 1kz negates that a lot, the smaller blade is normally wide open. The vacuum pot is for closing it, one of the ports closes it a bit over half way when the EGR is open and then the second port is to pull it the rest of the way shut for soft shutdown.
    1 point
  28. New old stock sub for more doof Went 10" as it needs a smaller box so will be easier to live with. The 12" takes up most of the boot space
    1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. Panic buy them. And a bag of ice for your built in chilly bin.
    1 point
  31. It's actually modelled after a screw driver handle thank you very much
    1 point
  32. Text directions and google maps links coming via email tonight Probably Maybe Also anymore non attendees that are still on the list in the first post? @tortron you're out yeh? Just trying to get my tallys right. @peteretep I suppose you're stuck in AKL too?
    1 point
  33. Beers 4 @Beaver! Picked up 4 new glowplugs at first light, threw them in and unsurprisingly the voltmeter now drops to 11V on pre-start, never done that in my ownership! Turn the key and the engine was tripping all over itself to start. Pretty stoked to finally have it starting with ease, hopefully the last two years of ownership haven't taken too much out of the starter. That will teach me for reading too many Land Rover barry forums that state the 300tdi doesn't need glow plugs, although I would still like to do a compression test for future reference.
    1 point
  34. I have been trying to sort the ride out a bit lately on the Mk1. I replaced the rear multi leaf springs which were really stiff (5 or 6 leaves? ) with a pair of 2 leaf springs I nicked out of one of my Sundowners. This lowered the rear 40mm, and softened the ride up at the same time. At the front, I replaced the multi leaf springs which again were really stiff, with a pair of single leafs out of Mk2. This lowered the front about 20mm. The rear already had an ARB fitted, so I fitted an ARB to the front axle to give some balance to the front/rear roll stiffness. I had to fit the front ARB virtually inside the front axle beam, to clear the sump pan, but it all seems to works well. It drives and rides much better now, and grip has improved somewhat. Okay I probably won't be able to load 600 kgs of cement bags in the back now, but its working days are long over! A few pics of the front end: I also got rid of the hydraulic throttle, which was always getting air bubbles in it, and limiting throttle opening. Being bottom hinged made it feel quite awful to drive, a bit like an old VW or Porsche with bottom hinged pedals. I replaced it with a Lokar pedal, and fitted a matching pedal pad to the brake pedal. Browndog's 1972 V8 Transit - Page 3 - Project Discussion - oldschool.co.nz
    1 point
  35. I've been driving this around a bit, still sorting some stuff like minor coolant leaks. But on the whole it's great. I started a bit of a resto on the wheels but ran out of patience and so just painted them fairly half arsedly. 2 meter rule! Havent swapped the tyres over yet. Can confirm that LSD works good, but it's still a fairly narrow window between bogging the motor and over revving and just spinning the front up off the launch. But it's infinitely better than it was. I bought an NCP91 Vitz ABS pump from a wrecker. So hopefully this can output wheel speeds in a digestible manner for my ECU. I found a pinout for this pump, and repinned my plug for it. Except I didnt check the main power and earth wires, for god knows what reason they swapped them back to front. So it blew a 60 amp fuse that I had to drive to Tauranga pick a part to replace. Fixed that and plugged it all in. So after some mucking around I got it sending can frames to try decode. It turns out that Toyota canbus of this era runs at 500kbps and the abs pump regularly sends about 5-6 distinct frames that seem to be largely empty and useless data Two frames have a value that just increments from 0-255 then resets to zero. I managed to isolate the value that changes when you put your foot on the brakes. But that's it! No wheel speeds, yaw, or anything cool or useful. I wrote some code so that instead of getting constantly spammed with all of the messages over and over. It will only show you what's changed since the last time that same message arrived. So if you spin a wheel, if this makes a value change it should show you which frame and byte the data is in. But, im still not seeing anything. After a few hours of mucking around I'm a bit stumped. Possibilites are: -The pump doesnt actually output wheel speeds over canbus (seems unlikely, as these motors dont have a speedo drive in the box anymore, and it communicates with the power steering) -The pump requires some sort of wakeup command from something else on the factory can network to begin transmitting wheel speeds (seems unlikely, as I'm geting brake pedal signal, and it's spamming useless stuff out anyway) -The wheel speed sensors have been revised, and my existing sensors arent compatible with this pump. The last option seems most likely. So next thing to do is source a wheel speed sensor from an NCP90 to test with. Why cant things be easy? They are but I make them complicated
    1 point
  36. Ahhh man, big success today! I got the car together enough to go for a run up the road. There are some big holes in the firewall currently from aircon stuff. So it's open to the engine bay. And when you go full throttle the intake noise in the cabin is so friggen loud that I think I need ear plugs. All of the loom and sensors are working well, new intake manifold with flipped throttles worked out perfect with SCP10 cable. LSD is doing LSD things! No single wheel peels anymore! The new gearbox is a little notchy into 2nd gear but its much much better than the other one. It's all a big relief, gearbox issues are/were main thing I was afraid would go wrong at this stage. Also not a peep out of the alternator! no more squeals. Hallelujah. I took it to the weigh bridge again. 830kg with half a tank of gas. Happy with that! Still on the heavy ROH wheels. So it's looking good to getting somewhere near my 820kg target for drags etc once I've swapped wheels. Swapping drivers seat for a bucket seat would probably be next easy win for some weight savings. Maybe eat a few less pies? Nah. Lots of small jobs to finish off but pretty relieved to have no major issues at this stage.
    1 point
  37. Built a ghetto sheet metal folder thingy on the end of my welding table 2 sections of grader blade from the scrap bin at work and some gate hinges from m10 +angle iron for handles+ random bolts and some old handles from my hoard - also has some cut spring from a fox 40 bicycle fork so it springs back up for loading and unloading Not bad radius on the bends may need to reinforce and tension the middle of the blades
    1 point
  38. I have a possible top of the south island loop planned for a future ride that includes these plus quite a few other adventures, we'll see what the appetite is post Molesworth 2022.
    1 point
  39. I put a cyclone separator on mine and it works quite well,you can buy them for under $40 locally. Mine feeds a vacuum cleaner with a variable speed controller so I can turn down the airflow when using super fine media. Pulled an old vacuum apart, stuck it in a ply box and fed it to an outside vent so there’s no fine dust in the shed which was fairly important as at one stage I was blasting some old bronze pieces and the dist from that it pretty nasty I've been told\ Bolted a tall round Systema container I stole from the kitchen (Shhh!) on the bottom of the cyclone so it’s easy to remove and clean out, the whole thing just hangs off the side of the cabinet as the input Port fits the dust outlet perfectly on the cabinet Have been toying with making a small vapor blaster with one of those 220l cabinets from topmaq
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Auckland/GMT+13:00
×
×
  • Create New...