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Woo hoo. Got this going over lock down. Put a new set of Eagle HT leads on as the old ones were tracking. Dropped the car off at the dyno shop on Sunday night, the drive there was a bit fraught. The car backfired into the intake and shot the caps off a couple of vacuum ports, I pulled the overflow hose off the radiator and plugged the hose tails with it on the side of the road, called it good and carried on. Was worried all yesterday. But. Good news. All went well! Gary adjusted things to 231.8 hp at about 4700 rpm and 274 ft lbs at 4700 rpm, Has max torque from about 3000 to 4700. It's 30 hp more than previous. The G3 works awesomely. Apparently it has ended up with a very unusual advance curve feels like it works well though, very well. Apparently there is about %20 driveline loss with a dyno like this so my 231 hp eguates to about 275 flywheel hp, on par with an E48 Charger! but with a 4/1bbl carb and sausage cooking gas! Anyway heres some pics of a couple of graphs. Apparently the hub dyno wouldn't fit into my low wheel arches with out the body being jacked up which caused the dyno to rattle a bit. I'm told thats why the line is a bit wobbly. Wobbly lines or not, it goes really really well now. Smooth, powerful, and lots of torque. Super pleased. The yellow line is the shit original "rebuilt motor" Red is the re rebuilt motor and Link G3 looking after timing.

bump - I sold this about 1.5 years ago when I needed some coin to do grown up things (renovate house) regretted it deeply, this weekend just been I went and picked it back up off the guy who I sold it to. it now has a vvt-i 1jzgte and MAXX ECU all scratch built loom by nz wiring, that about all he changed, got raised up and put on some china 17x9's. while I was in wellington I picked up a set of bcnr33 wheels and slapped them on it and lowered it back down to a semi acceptable height. The plans are smash an r154 in it before I blow up the w58 doing silly stuff, then later on I will put a TD06 on it and hopefully make around 350kw just for shits and gigs, also potentially some 15's of some sort again would be nice. will also unyucky the intercooler pipes. Couple of pics from before I sold it with 9j mk1 on the back and current pics, needs to come down 6mm or so in the back to get it sitting level

@piazzanoob popped over and gave me a hand refitting the manifolds so they actually seal. Bit of rtv and a extra set of hands did the trick l! It was still running like a bag of dicks until we figured out which one of the three vacuum ports needed to be connected....

And Im back, actually been doing a bit of work on this. Previous plans have led to abject failure, so have taken a deep plunge to do this right, once (although cheaped out on gearbox a bit) Have started selling off most of the engine bits and gearbox shown in previous posts here, and Im sure I will be left with a pile that will be added to the cupboard of broken dreams.. If anyone needs a new T3/T4 turbo, eboost 2 , tubosmart wastegate and bov... all for sale and more, listing in FS sooon. I have bought a Mendeola 2D box with a vertigate shifter, pro ringed, spool set up. Not new, but the previous owner put 980hp to the wheels through it, so it should hold up. Also bought a new engine, it is 3 months away, basic specs are 90 stroke x 109.5 bore , G42-1450 turbo, methanol injected (8 injector set up). Going away from any thoughts of street driven to dedicated drag car. Pic is similar to what it is, without the mount and inlet/exhaust going the other way for a rear engined set up. There is potential for a lot more HP than I think I will be able to put through the chassis I have. Longer term a tube frame chassis may be the go. I started this thread 7 years ago..... pre death is now the goal...

Went to a wrecker I discovered on Facebook, found a lot of sweet 910 parts and various other things, had a field day! Well two field days, one look around wasnt enough lol Two pair of headlights - one pair complete and the other pair NOS bulbs Two SSS grills Twilight Rust free coupe boot lid with Turbo-X badge!

New shift knob for the 910! Super rad in the light! Also a pic from a Sunday drive the other weekend

Picked up another style taillight, just the one side only though which frustrated me as soon as I put it on car after a quick polish as I knew I'd need the other side! Quite promptly found the other side in Japan, just a guessing game now on how long it'll be until regular postal services operate again!

I was at the back in my modern daily and saw 99% of the screen. was pretty decent actually They didn't seem to give a fuck about seat belts with the cars going in. I think that's more a don't take the piss and jam 11 people in your tiida

Much success! Got a VIN, Wof and Reg today! All ticked off and ready to roll. Now time for a few mods, Artillieries, whitewalls, hub caps and beauty rings Split manifold and exhaust Fit the Fulton Visor Lower Then she be ready for summer cruising.

So i had a vmoto milian And a pgo moped both didnt go... And swaped them for another fa50.... BUT this one ruuuuns yuus. So the new plain is to simply pull of the good bits of the old 1 and put on this one choice

This isn't cranking along as fast as I want, so much other shit is getting in the way. I have also done some redesign on the table, I'm thinking of using T slot to mount the rails. This will save some hole drilling and allow for much easier adjustment. However bits are slowly trickling in, a 2.2Kw water cooled spindle and VFD;

I can confirm that Waikaremoana Holiday Park has cabins available if you call them directly. Booked a 5 bed fisherman's cabin for the 28th.

I'd poke a drinking straw down number one spark plug hole, and see where actual tdc is.

bit of a /ling thread jack, but anyone wanting a good shakedown/cant wait til november to ride with a bunch of sweaty dudes, PPSC are organising a ride from the hawkes bay up to waikaremoana for an overnighter. looking at the last weekend of august, 29-30. if that sounds appealing to you just send a fax my typist Gladys and she can telex you an information pack.

heres the pics that i couldnt post yesterday. 2020-06-22_07-55-31 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-06-22_07-55-58 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-06-22_07-56-05 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-06-22_07-56-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-06-22_07-56-22 by sheepers, on Flickr

Some good looking things arrived, if these bad boys don't sort the brake issue then I'm not sure what will. They look fucking monstrous. This is not even the most expensive brake upgrade available, but definitely not cheap. Some good y60 axles may come available very soon if anyone wants any. Old = 295mm x 20mm rotor, single pot. New = 306mm x 34mm rotor, 2 pot. The splash shields have been adjusted out of shape by the floor, they will need a bit of loving. I'll probably do the wiper seals as one looks a little weepy. It looks like the original 15's will fit over the brake setup, this is good. The axles are a bit wider than the y60 ones but with some 33x10.5 tyres the actual width will be pretty much the same as it currently has 33x12.5s. I did model this in solidworks to make sure that was the case but time will tell. Fun fun.

Hi, Thanks everyone for the advice. Pics of my car below. Currently sitting on the wharf in New Jersey awaiting to be shipped. So hopefully I will be able to get it here and certified to enjoy this up coming summer cruising. Cheers

Well well, Link in and working, took more than I thought it would, Couldn't get a spark at cranking speed, mucked around and mucked around. Swapped pick up with a Mazda/Toyota unit, brought a new battery the old one was cooked anyway still no luck. Took the whole thing back out and took it to the tuning place. LOL, G3 was looking for a different signal, changed the parameter and away we went. All back in now and working well. Japanese pick up worked out well, the advance plate is gone all together now, which simplified things alot. Also I modified this distributor to take a plastic Slant Six distributor gear. They are about $1.50 off ebay, a hemi 6 one is almost impossible to get, bronze ones are available but they wear out quickly and make the timing scatter. I have a Link and Ignitor attached to my heater box. Also added some H4 headlights, and a big relay. Now I can see in the dark! Replaced the finger chopping fan with an electric one, got all hi tech with a thermo switch even. Pics of hilux calipers fitted. This is on the AP5 but same diff. Easy to do and well worth the effort. Roller Rocker flex because I reset my tappets with a view to get this dynoed once the world goes back to normal.

I'm calling on some advice from those that know the Mini A series engine a bit better than I do. Mrs Flash owns a 1974 1100cc Mini Moke that we bought a while back. There are signs that the engine has been apart before and it’s always suffered with an intermittent misfire that new plugs, points and condenser didn’t solve. I figured if I ignored it long enough, it might go away, but sadly not. The misfire got steadily worse and then last week it got to the point where it died and it was a battle to re-start it. When it did eventually start it sounded really sick. So I figured it was high time that I investigated the issue. As a first step I popped a timing light on and noticed that at idle the timing mark was intermittently jumping around. I then pulled the distributor out and discovered a huge amount of play in the distributor shaft. I decided to invest in a new 45D electronic distributor rather than having my tired old 29D refurbished. The new distributor arrived yesterday afternoon and I set about installing it this morning. It's at this point that things started to get interesting. When I went to re-fresh the timing marks on the flywheel with a bit of white paint I discovered that the dull painted marks placed by a previous owner are not actually on the correct flywheel factory markings. I decided to ignore these home-made marks and proceeded to use the factory flywheel timing marks to setup the engine at the correct position for cylinder 1 using the procedure outlined in my Moke repair manual (cylinder 1 at TDC on compression stroke with factory TDC flywheel timing mark aligned with the pointer). I then installed the new distributor and it's at this point that things became really interesting. My repair manual states that with cylinder 1 set to TDC the key at the bottom of the distributor should align with the slot in the distributor drive shaft and the rotor should point at roughly the 1 o'clock position. In my case with the new distributor snuggly fitted into the distributor drive shaft slot the rotor points at the 3 o'clock position. This, together with the presence of the home made timing marks on the flywheel has got me wondering whether at some point in the past the gear at the end of the distributor driveshaft has been set a tooth out. Does this sound like a reasonable assumption ? Thanks for reading Picture of Moke as everyone likes pictures.

Got to enjoy the little things!

Pretty much right. Centre bearing flange should be around 3° off gearbox flange like you say to make the ujs work. This can be up or down btw (you drew down). Diff angle should be the same angle as centre bearing flange, but some say to angle it slightly up to counter suspension twist when accelerating. Personally I think yes for a race car, most of the info I've found on the internet comes from Americans setting up drag cars. I'd be pretty much bang on for a road car.

Aaaaaand I'm registered Fizzing.

Two things: 1, the flywheel can slip on the crankshaft rendering the timing marks useless. 2, the intermediate dizzy adapter drive ( the bit that has the gear on the bottom and slot at the top) can be installed incorrectly.. 2 is more likely than 1, and given your description sounds like it could be a tooth out. Which means you run short of timing adjustment on the mounting slot. The above suggestions from @RUNAMUCK and @nzstatoare definitely all good, I would start with a tdc vs crank position check because it's easy, and sometimes crank pulley removal can suck with the engine in the car, bearing in mind you cannot 100% trust flywheel marks. You could also add some fresh tdc and 10 degree marks to the crank pulley area as a rough timing light guide. EDIT: if the chain slackness is of concern perhaps watching the dizzy rotor or rocker gear whilst turning the motor clockwise and then anticlockwise slightly would give you an indication of timing gear wear.

Will grab some vacuum, fuel, and brake booster hose to replace what's Missing/old/fucked. Went to replace the hoses and the new ones are way to short which is a bit of a cunt. Supercheap took 6 weeks to send them so they better bloody take them back. The drivers flare nut was tight/stripped af so it'll be getting replaced soon

Hey Hamilton crew. I'll need a hand packaging and addressing all the nats shirts that need to be sent away. Perhaps we should have a bit of a mid week meet up to sort this out sometime soon? @64valiant, @mark105, @Beaver, @Archetype, @Geophy, @Yowzer, @Zeubin, @WankBankA100, @flyingbrick

heres a photo just after i got it all driving and running properly. hasn't changed much from this photo apart from being about 10mm lower all round

Hi all, Long time lurker. I brought this car out off Dunedin 2 and a bit years ago, off a friend of mine who id hounded for a while to be able to buy it off him. I brought it Reg on hold, no wof, motor not running, manual swap not quite complete, and the interior in the boot. Car is a Hardtop, with the eagle Mask front end, my favorite combination! A buddy of mine and I drove down, threw it on the trailer and brought it home. Car was originally a 1geu, Auto. It had a 1gge and W57 stabbed into it, but a long way from running. Once it arrived home i reassembled it to see what was missing. A pic form the day i picked it up In the 2 years following that i battled my way through making it run. Someone had REALLY funked up the motor loom, and most of the time was spent chasing that. A few spots of rust were removed, Engine painted and freshened up, engine bay painted (twice god damn it). Interior was re instated, wiring loom tucked, coilovers, bushings, booster delete, proportioning valve, strut brace and eventually a full respray. Among a thousand other jobs December of 2019 the car was certified for everything, luckily it went through with very minor issues. Car as it sits now While in lockdown ive been chasing issues with the factory EFI. I hate this EFI system, it is rubbish. Probably more of an issue because of the muppet who tried to fix the loom for the owner before me, but none the less its been a nightmare. So to cure it, ive started collecting the parts to do a full conversion to side draft carbs. Triple webers seem to be the answer in my mind anyway. Thats all for now, ill detail some of the process in future updates, and specifically the carb conversion. Thanks!

Have you fixed your points yet?

Probably should fill the form out aye.

I emailed them the other day, just got my booking confirmation

all part of Oldschool Karhmacollect, brother. what goes around, comes around.......... now, where the fuck we getting OTP in August ?

I assembled one of these A engines a few months back, your description of dizzy position sounds correct.... If it hasn't been replaced the chains in these will be getting really slack now, they can jump teeth. Put it on TDC, pull the cover off and see if the crank/cam marks point to each other. I cant recall the exact position but the crank key should sit in a particular reference to this also (it may have stripped the key). In the Haynes manual

Maaaate i can roll 6 deep in mine not sure how many would actually want to be with 6 sweaty people in a drive in movie to watch blues brothers though

Yeah I dunno how he thinks hes going to get out of there without a light bar

Decided I was unhappy with the black fuel tank so I threw a coat of silver on, it’s a bit better but I’m still not sold (and now it may not even end up being used, more on that below) got my replacement spring mounts back from being made built a frame to put the car on so it can be moved around loaded the car up onto my mates car trailer and took it to Greg at R3 Fabrications (check them out on Facebook) Was a pretty nerve racking drive that’s for sure. Not that it moved at all but the height of the car on the trailer just felt wrong haha Upon Greg looking at it he identified that the rear chassis rails have a slight downward kink, and the front is twisted to the right, so it’s going onto the chassis machine this week to be straightened and have the new spring mounts fitted, have the boot floor cut out (it’s basically uneconomical to repair due to the amount of creases in it, so we will replace it with a flat boot floor (which means the spare wheel well that the fuel tank mounts to is gone, hence the comment about not using the tank) I may end up running a drop tank or fuel cell. TBC at this point. Then I will pick it up and start saving to have the next stage of work done, (rust in the outer 1/4s Which Greg believes will be best to stitch a couple of whole 1/4s on) One step closer..... discuss here:

Here are a couple of photos from last weekend when I put the tank in Filler tube. It the original extended to meet the tank And the breather. The wiring at the top of the photo is the power and fuel sender to the tank. Reusing the original fuel line hole through the body.

What's the last pic of? I cant see anything Also lol at @piazzanoob plate. Sounds like something my dad says. Good to see the galaxie is mobile again

12 inch stockies on for a change, rides like shit but it’s ‘lively’

Cant help you because I too am retarded But there was a trap with my one which I'm not sure yours has, the ignition switch has 2 positions , start and run... start has a rpm limit so it cant get away on you Took me a while to figure why it would idle but not rev

^all those contribute to fade problems- weight makes it worse, more power makes it worse cause it can get up to speed quicker so less recovery time between stops, and bigger wheels because of the leverage as you mention, and bigger wheels are usually heavier, especially on 4wds

Can get a safari to pass the 5 stop test, usual easy combo is the 2 pot later caliper, slotted discs, and some really good pads. Pads is where most people run into trouble, they go into repco or supercheap and ask for the best pad, which usually equals the most expensive they have in stock at the time, which might still be junk . some wilwood/other fancy name brand brake kits come with rubbish pads to keep the cost down, fail a brake test and the guy with the 250k hot rod says "what are you on about m8 it's a wilwood kit it should be fine "

Bit of a sad update on my little wagon. Its soon going to a new home I'll miss this wee car. Its been great fun, tootles along fine, goes hard for what it is and has been bloody reliable too. However I have not been using much due to that slutty little minx of an Imp taking my fancy. Now if I had to choose one car that was to be the only car to keep for ever and we didn't have the old hiace van then I would probably keep the Viva, modify the fuck out of it as I had planned and make the most of its usability. But I have a van for usability and little Impy the minx is just such a hoot to drive on twisty roads (and will hopefully soon be very much more so but that is another story....) so the wagon has to go - because I am not Barry enough to be a car hoarder and I don't like seeing cars fester. So the wagon found a new home quite quickly. Its going to a fella up north who has just retired from being a fireman (funny that - because my other Viva went to a Fireman and I am also a 'part time' fireman.... @RUNAMUCK you have been warned. I see an old Vauxhall in your future ) The fella getting it already has a few Vivas so he knows them well. Wagons are a pretty rare thing so not surprised it got snapped up quick. Anyway. I stole the Turbos from it. I have been eyeing them up since the Imp came to me with my old widened Viva steels that didn't actually fit the imp properly. So a plan was hatched way back then. I re-painted the steels and had the tyres from the turbos swapped over. I had a spare set of stainless hubcaps I have been saving. On with them and wow ! I reckon it looks bloody superb but then I always did love the widened steels on my other Viva. I also nicked the Recaros from the Viva because they really suit the Imp better (little spoilt brat of a car) and the Mx5 seats were bolted back into the Viva. Its been a fantastic journey and I'm sure the story has entertained many of you along the way. But we only have one life and well... things move on. I do really hope that the next owner looks after this little wagon and it continues on being good at what it is- an unpretentious useful little daily classic I'm off to watch a movie and have a cry. You can send me happy thoughts and discuss what Viva Bart will be getting here....

Finally got it running again and out for a drive, very fun in the wet!

Hightailed it down to Whanganui via New Plymouth over the weekend to extract a 4ZD1 engine out of a Trooper. It's 2.3 litre and about 110hp in stock form. Will bolt up to my standard Gem 5-speed and into the bay with the Gem engine mounts. Will probably use the 4ZE1 (2.6) head on it as it has better combustion chambers and way bigger ports. Thanks @alfalfa for helping out.

Making a bit of progress.

How deep? Balls deep

Here is the engine, it was built at Mcintosh racing, it runs well, its around 1100cc, it dropped a valve when the retainer snapped in half but it was ok, I made the exhausts and oils lines, engine plates, mudguards, and half the shit on this bike. it has Hemmings heads, I know a guy who has a KTOR engine on the floor in his shed, I can put you in contact with people but you probable already know them?

Wow. 5 years later and what a ball ache that turned out to be. It turns out that the closest engine reconditioned isn't always best choice.There were numerous issues with the above engine which only became apparent over time. The most obvious issue was that it wouldn't rev past 4900rpm. After much mucking around, buying parts, getting shagged around by Australian parts suppliers, booking dyno time, and sitting in workshops around Christchurch I discovered that my oil pump drive gear was slipping on its shaft as the load came on, causing a drop in oil pressure, not enough to bring the oil light on and too briefly to make the gauge drop This caused the lifters to bleed down and stop the engine until the gear gripped on the shaft and things went OK again. So the upshot of all this? A re, rebuilt engine, this is where the lid came off the tin of worms. Anyway. got it going all seems OK. After all the wasted time and money, as well as a couple of other factors this thing has been parked up since Hanmer last year. I've just got it back from 6 months to life to be served in a workshop in rural Canterbury. I haven't been able to decide what to do with it or the AP5, I thought about selling them but soon changed my mind, I've thought about parking them up and ignoring them for a decade or two. Neither option made me happy. Nats 2019 made me realize how much I miss having one or both of them running so now I'm back and have the VG home. It's time to make The VG awesome to again! I have a list of things to do. As you can see, some of those things are already done! I gave it a good wash and polish, now it looks much better. I think I need to add "Replace boot rubber" to the list.

I've converted my Valiant to run a dedicated LPG fuel system. The whole Petrol system is gone. Its been an ongoing mission but today it fnaly paid off. The car is converted, Dyno tuned, has an LPG warrant, instlation cert, new Testing Station WOF, and rego. To drive it's better in every way, smoother, idles better, easy to start and goes just as well as before. Also $1.33/L at the pumps. It's early days yet but kays per litre seems better than petrol too. When I get a Rock Gas card $ per litre will drop again too. So yeah, so pleased with it. Photos. LPG filler is where the petrol filler was. Tank in the boot, lost some boot space, not worried. Impco L model convertor Impco 300a gas carb mounted on a Holley throttle plate. It works like a very large Stromberg. Done. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=23905&p=557639