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Project discussion above This has been in storage but that has come to a end so it was time to dig it out of the shipping container its been sitting in. I've had this for about eight years. I bought off my brother, its dead in the reg so plan is to get some live plates back on it. It has a few spots of rust in the body and the engine dropped a exhaust valve. So I pulled the short block out as the head had been pulled off years ago. Although it dropped a valve it hasn't done any major damage. Someone has done a sweet red paint job on the engine bay. I won't open up a can of worms by painting it at the moment. Just concentrating on just getting it up and running then focussing on the rust to get it back on the road.

Been pretty inactive on here for the last few years, as I’ve been staying away from old cars that tend to do my head in. But I’ve fallen into the trap again, and picked up this 1981 Mitsubishi Mirage! Has the Supershift gearbox too Have wanted one of these for years. Was looking at buying a reliable modern hatchback to daily, then stumbled across this and could help myself It has no wof, as it failed the last one on the rust in the doors. Other than the doors being rusty though, it pretty bloody tidy! So first of all, I need to get it a warrant. Then at this stage, the plan is to just slam on a set of 14 inch wheels. Then I’ll see where I go from there! Heres a couple pics anyway

Special delivery! 125cc semi auto lifan

Bit more rust work done... never exciting really. But, I decided to sort my mirrors out whilst the rust work was being done. The mirrors were from @WLDRX2 and with a bit of cutting and welding. Originally from a 80s L200 I believe. Matt

Primed the many pieces..

Cletus, you're a fucking genius. Better than chess and sandwiches with all the hot girls at Mensa. I have no idea why I didn't look at that tag. I'm off to Google now

Holy shit. Front spaghetti. Engine spaghetti. Inside spaghetti. Fusebox spaghetti. Currently (ha!) I have; Headlights high and low Indicators Hazards Park lights Brake lights Wipers and washers Heater blower Acc, main and start off the key A glow plug timer I have the glow loom stuff hacked out of the Safari loom. Things going surprisingly well, I have only blown 7 protection fuses during engagements.

Ahaaa! That I will also try. Great thinking. I have been hankering for a smartphone endoscope anyway. I'll order one now

Without the bushing but You get the idea

Since the engine and box has mounts now, I suppose I should take the engine back out to look at modifying the sump and properly welding the engine mounts. Bonus, the oil pickup pipe doesn't start bending at that step so I can cut this much out with no problem. This means I can lift the rack about 10-15mm, which means I can also shorten my spacers on the steering arms/tie rod ends. I do have an AC tig welder, but I haven't attempted any aluminium welding. I will need to find something to practice on. I plan on bolting the sump to to something flat and stiff to try keep it from warping. I also cleaned, prepped and zinc primed to weld the engine mounts on. I didn't grind down the original tack welds so I can use them to align the mounts.

^I tried one of those in the Samurai (lockright), it was shit, undriveable. Constantly unlocking either axle at random. U-turns were impossible, driving a straight line was impossible tbh. Even the diff shop couldn't get it to work. (There's a bit of a story here, but spam). Don't imo

Snappy...snappy. In other news: I have almost hit two young cattle beasts in as many weeks at night here. It's terrifying. They either just stand (black as hell) in the middle of the road, or bolt out of no-where right in-front of the vehicle. I put a 50" light bar on a week or so ago, but just about hit one at ~ 70kmph on Friday. I think I got its tail (only) with the passenger's headlight. It crossed in the rain and dark from my right. Praise be to the sweet baby Jesus that it didn't end up on my lap. In an Atlas frontal impact you only have a thin sheet of metal and then your knees. You'd possibly be a long time waiting for an ambulance on this island... (arguably the next day. Some days I can drive for 5 hours without seeing another vehicle.) EDIT: And yes, I carry a headlamp, rifle, boning knife and skinning knife in the truck at all times. Danger would be proud of me

Saturday was a right-off because of weather, Did manage to get everything prepped for the roof in between showers. So on sunday I did this, Roof and half the walls on, Bloody shattered now.

Well... this got put under the bench and forgotten about for 3 years updated pics back - some pics are lost unfortunately. Its back out on top of the bench and the bits are being worked on. Some primed bits some of the pitting I have been dealing with .. which I'm priming, then skim filling and sanding it, then high fill priming after

Well this thing still hasn't left the garage yet. Funds have slowed down greatly now as well as we've started saving for a house pretty seriously but still putting a bit away for it. Motivation was on a decline so went to the shop and got it a nice and shiny air filter (actually ended up returning and getting another as the 4.5" was too tall for the little 1300). I also dropped in to Weber Specialties to have a catch up with my old mate Murray. He's convinced me to bring in the IDA for him to have a look at as it's setup is a little unknown (previous owner had it on both a bp and pp setup), and he's going to sort a throttle wheel and help me shorten the cable. Looking to sort a malpassi fuel regulator for the old girl as well. In the pipeline I'm also looking into the ignition setup and seeing what options are available,so plenty of reading up to do get my head around the ideal setup. Cheers

Holy shit!!! I reckon there's a tag like that up high on the B pillar. BRB *dons gumboots and 12 layers of clothing P.S: it's a banjo

Should be a tag somewhere (under the seat or on one of the pillars maybe?) with an axle code on it That might help?

From one end to the other (south to north) is about 1.5 hours non-stop in each direction, but there's bits off either side too. When friends come to visit we usually go out for about a five hour look-see. The Atlas is my only vehicle here so I'm kind of careful with her. The Holden crew here a few weeks ago were probably jealous but (TBH they were mainly really nice people). /SPAM

Gave the interior a quick clean this afternoon. Would really like to give the seats a good wash at some point, when I get the motivation Hoping to try take it in for a wof check this week. A couple of the doors are pretty rusty though, so I’m probably going to have to fix/replace them If anyone on here is wrecking one of these, or has parts, flick me a message!

Left to do; • Install air filter, need couple screws • Fit dipstick • Alter wiring loom to suite • Install starter - needs a repair • Install choke cable - on order

Weldie weldie...

Can you see the diff nugget through the oil fill hole? Might give you some idea if you can see the centre

What do you think of the super-shift? I borrowed one for a day back in the '80s and found it quite fun.

today I decided to freeze my buts off in the garage. cleaned the block and moving parts.. reinstalled the pistons and crank assembly to check bearing oil clearances. I used plastigage for a rough measurement. All mains were well within spec, but 2 of the 5 have some grooving, there is no marking on the crank journals though. Big ends are basically at brand new specs top compression ring end gap is also at the min clearance range however a 2nd comp/scraper ring is broken aswell as 1 oil control ring. my guess is that this engine got a rebuild no more than 20,000kms ago, but has sat for a considerable amount of time. a couple of the frost plugs look new, where the remainder are heavily corroded. Now the big task at hand is to locate a set of +60 rings, big end and mains bearings, full gasket/seal kit, head kit etc. in the meantime I will plonk the head back on the block and make a start on the carb manifold and the headers. while I was looking over this block today I noticed many ports in the block for oil and water galleries, would be simple enough to plumb a turbo into this block if I were ever keen to see the limits of it..probably not very high.

Another part of trying to sort the idle is to replace the idle control valve, which has been a bit suspect from the beginning. I don't particularly enjoy taking the intake off, but its the only way to get to the idle valve. I cleaned the idle valve a while back, but obviously it was still suspect. Even after cleaning I was still getting a reading of zero in DIS for idle air flow (I haven't had a chance to test since replacement). After some research it turned out that the S50B30 idle valve is shared with the M60/M62 BMW V8 engines, so although its bigger and not shared with the other I6 engines, it's not too hard to source one from an E34/E39/E38. I got a good used replacement, and got to work pulling the intake out again. Thankfully last time I had it all off I chose to fit a pod filter instead of the standard airbox, as that was one part that pissed me off a lot when reassembling; refitting the airbox. Taking the plenum off doesn't take too long, it's just a bit fiddly. Here we go again Out came the old valve. The only difference between the M6x ones and S50 is that there is a rubber grommet on the M6x ones. Once you pull that off, they are the same, even down to Bosch part number. It became obvious that despite me cleaning it, the original valve was still sticking, and it moved nowhere near as freely as the used replacement. An easy test of how freely they operate is to twist/shake the unit side to side and see how easily the shutter inside it moves. The old one needs quite a firm shake to move the shutter, whilst the replacement moves very freely. I suspect this is how the original one moved in DIS but may not be working correctly. With a full whack of voltage to fully open or close it (as the DIS test does), it works OK, but you can't finesse the movement and tweak it just a little. With one of my previous orders, I had ordered a replacement mount for the valve, as the old one was brittle and broke last time I removed it (hence the zip tie in the above photos). On went the new mount. I fit the replacement valve, reassembled, and tested. It seems the idle acts a bit better than it did, with noticeable changes when load is applied at idle, but it's still rough and misfiring at idle, so obviously the idle valve was an issue, but not related to my original fault.

Piss-ute is now gone...long live the new king!

another small area of rust that ended up being a weeeeeeee but more. ran out of flapper discs...so still needs a clean up.

yea cool so 1 month later and ive managed to get the fuel tank acid dipped and cleaned, put a liner in it and paint it. such progress, much wow. still not complied. 2019-05-28_03-45-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-05-31_08-22-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-05-31_08-23-03 by sheepers, on Flickr

OK, so not the end of the story New owner has been busy with the pain gun. Interior is also partly re-done.

Decided I needed to get a bit of big wheeled action. As much fun as the Jog is, its not really cut out for my long frame nor longer distances. So spotted a v50 on the tard and snapped it up. Trip up to Auckland with Geophy and bada bing bada boom Guy I bought it off had it since 2011/2012 at which time he got it off a guy from Te Aroha who worked at the council and drove it to work everyday for 20 years he reckoned. The rego had lapsed at some point so was re-registered in 2012 as a 1989 model but is actually a 79 according to the original rego details (still have a rego tag from 2003). Anyway, reg on hold so all good. Got it home, fresh gas and oil, and fired right up. New battery and a couple of bulbs and all the electrics worked, perfect. Pulled carb to bits and cleaned out, otherwise haven't had to do much which is exactly what I wanted. Next step was to sort out the seat. It came with a new cover, so was going to patch up the foam and redo it factory spec, but the master upholster Greg convinced me otherwise (didn't take much).

Fleet expanded. Discuss - It's a 1985 Honda Crx, bought it for a sharp price. Its a ex drag hack from a guy on nzhondas Deanis from 2006. It had a feature in July 2007 performance car, yet to find a copy. Its best time down the strip in its hayday was 12.7 I believe. It had a high comp B18cr (kinda), quads, LSD box, super light wheels and drag radials. Current specs are aporox: - Poor man's type R engine - Non LSD box - Rust - No wof and Dereg, but has a cert Plans are: - De-rustify - Get it legal (needs at least washer bottle + motor, quieter muffler, 15 inch wheels, B pilar plastic) - Tidy up and add a couple niceties back in like carpet and a windscreen fan. Will try redo wiring and tidy engine bay. - Later - try add quads back, needs exhaust headers, get an LSD. Garage space at a premium Just fits Now to get it naked to make more space

i never thought id get to own one of these cars. like, never. so long story short Rhona needed a new daily and she wanted, no, demanded, something a bit less agricultural than a 80 series landcruiser. after talking about many different Toyotas i asked her to just put anything that took her fancy (and was a Toyota) on the watch list. many weird and wonderful things got added to the watch list chosen solely by colour and then something amazing happened. she had added an ISF. i said "you know how much that costs right?" discussions were had. a plan came together and we were test driving an ISF. the first one i drove was just punting around the back streets of greenlane but even then i knew this car was something amazing. we drove a few more and the boss didnt stop liking them, then the impossible happened. We actually bought one. say hello to our Larry. 2019-05-24_05-37-38 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-05-24_05-37-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2008. NZ new, black leather interior. radar cruse etc... plans? drive as much as i can. heres a list of stuff thats been done to the car by previous owner,

Yes it was good to catch up, and informative. Definitely keen to go that way. Good value at $995. I plan on posting a bit of engine reconditioning info in this build. Hopefully it will help people understand where all the money goes on a engine rebuild. I know i can't believe where all the hours go at the end of a engine.

Ta. I saw those Spartan lockers when searching online yesterday. It's good to know (from the chassis plate) that my truck should have a ~4.3:1 rear diff with the same crown wheel diameter as found in some Patrols, but I'll need to look inside it to see if it has a LSD clutch pack. There's heaps of rusted out Safaris and Terranos here so used parts should be easy to get locally. My old Patrol had a factory locker (air/vacuum operated). I may get lucky enough to find one of those in a paddock... Here's hoping.

Weld up some Aussie spec Roobars? Didn't realize the island was big enough to drive for 5 hours tbh

Will turn the same way if lsd. Open will go backwards If it's a stuffed lsd it would probably still do that spinning gently by hand

Old wifes tail that the wheels will turn in opposite directions if it's an lsd? Or is that for non lsd.....fuck knows

Seats are a bit faded, and the rear vision mirror is broken, but it’s pretty tidy considering it’s age. I’ve got a woodgrain Nardi steering wheel laying around that I think I’ll put on it too

Fiat got a shed mate. 17hp of grass cutting weaponry. Also a roof chopped 62 Thunderbird. Probably also only 17hp.

Slowing coming together New thermo housing, stant rad cap, RS2000 alternator bracket, later had to remove and throw cortina one on, RS2000 type won't work with lucas acr style, bracket fowls alternator. Blue themeDays work, helps having basically everything on hand after planing swap for 8 years....

I need to flip this thing on it's lid, so I can finish welding up the frame. I got it running, to heat up the oil pre draining, it was running like a hat full of vagina's, but It's probably only run like 5 times in the last 18 years, so that's understandable. When I drained the oil it seemed to be mostly petrol, so I guess a float is stuck. Whipped the carbs off for a clean, hopefully that will help it run better. Regards, VG.

So clean...

Work continues.... Got the motor back and it’s looking mint! Thanks @Mr Vapour!! Chopped the rear end to fit the rear hoop, just need to smooth off round where the steel pressed frame meets the tube steel. An order from 4 into 1 arrived which meant we could crack on with the carbs. Wicked rebuild kit which literally had everything, even included larger jets for the trumpets. Also made a start on the motor, had the bros round help lap the valves and reassemble the head. The lower casing had a oil pan fitted in the bottom which weirdly had two screws and three rivets holding it in. Had to drill out the rivets to remove it and clean the sump properly. Then drilled the holes and tapped a thread in each to add proper screws in.

Haven't heard anything from Stephen Fleming but it's not really a rush and she did say he is very busy. Maybe I'll ring in a week or two. Tried cranking it over with the wifes car running and connected the to battery cables at the front of the Eureka. Touch cut wires of dash and it turns over with the starter (previously had battery jumper leads directly on the starter). Still sluggish, so maybe the starter needs a rebuild. Tested and found no spark, had it turning over with wifes car and spare battery connected to the coil. I'll take the distributor out and see what I find. Having silly thoughts of an all aluminium KLZE 2.5L v6 and ITB's sticking out the bonnet. Or maybe bike carb's on the Kent after getting it running on the DCOE 42. Depends on whether I need to go through a cert or not (what paper work I can get, if any). The V6 just suits the car I reckon. But the kent is 'original'....but heavy and half the power.

V3.0 Bottom end All the ARP's Threw the bottom end in the car, before attempting to put head on, since don't have an engine stand. One small issue. 16v sumps are a little bigger than the 20v one that was in there. Hits the bash plate/ brace. will probably modify the engine mounts engine to lift the engine 5mm or so. cbf'd taking sump back off.

In the mean time, the old owner managed to track down the leg shield which he reported was fucked, but I wanted it anyway. Turns out my standards must be lower as its perfect. Perfectly aged! I also ditched the front guard as it looked weird as it had faded to grey and sat waaay to high. Looks much better without in my opinion. And to keep the barrys happy, here is my solution to stop me from losing the key (it is just a random key that works but rattle out when riding). Perfect. Next are plans to big block/chuck a lifan in. Not really going to touch the bike otherwise, as I like the idea of a originalish looking bike but with enough grunt to go adventuring.

Was needing to bend 7/8' pipe 180deg with a 250mm outside dia so i knocked this up today .Tho not 100% happy as there is a wee kink at the end of the bend

a wee small update on th old girl (picture less ) she flew throw her 2nd WOF in my possession... i also swapped th aftermarket hard as fuck engine mounts that shock evry thing to death out for the old factory ones in th mk3. so much better but the engine sat a wee bit lower and that in turn lifted the arse end of the gearbox and then that made the driveshaft rubber doughnut hit the tunnel.. so i spaced the gearbox crossmember down and man its so smooooooth and awesome to drive. i also swapped the heater motor out (chewed to fuck and on full tit vibrated like mad) for the mk3 motor...man the heat and silence is perfect. on a side note with the 5speed i am now getting just over 500ks of daily driving goodness to a tank of gas. so all in all still happy with it..(needs and LSD and 100 more HP)

So... I have finally got one of the original "rust-spec" ones all sorted and took it for a skid 4Km later and chasing cars @50kph down a steep hill ..... i was officially - CERTIFIABLY NUTS!! It shall stay exactly as it is (bar some further mechanical maintenance) and be used + abused