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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/06/19 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    hi. so 8 years after i bought a supercharger and 5 years after i made a manifold for it im actually going to install it. old people like me will tell you about how times speeds up and you just dont know where the time went but this is fucking ridiculous. how the fuck has it been 5 years since i made that manifold? how? anywho. i took the motor out. its fairly depressing to look at the engine bay that i once spent so much time and effort on and see what a pile of crap it looks like now. still, me, and a few other people too, have done a bunch of Ks in this car. ive dailyed it for almost 8 years, driven it to invercargil and back, been to heaps of nats in it, leadfoots, Toyota nationals, thrashed it at countless track days, done 70,000Ks in it. and its NEVER missed a beat. not fucking once has it ever let me down ( you could count the time i blew the gearbox up but any idiot who puts a W55 behind a UZ deserves all he gets). cant complain about that i suppose. so now its time for a new look, a new motor and a new other things as well. first point of business, motor out, 2019-05-31_08-22-40 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-05-31_08-22-32 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-05-31_08-22-24 by sheepers, on Flickr as it now takes me 27 years to scratch my arse i doubt the progress i used to make on projects is going to be a thing again. so dont expect me to have this thing finished by monday as i would have done in the old days.
  2. 9 points
    Jeez 4 years aye. Well my Harley is just about finished and while sharing a sharn with @RUNAMUCK in my shed on friday Bart did what he tries to do with everyone and thats convince them to supercharge everything and turns out I was ready for this preachers words and I spent the rest of the day thinking about how this bike will be very difficult to make road legal so I might as well get into a motorsport so Im gonna build it into a vintage Drag bike. Have always had a soft spot for Engineered to Slides Triumph 500 Drag bike so thats the style direction. Im gonna need Aisin 300 Supercharger. Suitable Carb Mickey Thompson Drag slick Norton Gearbox Than Ill fabricate the rest. Ive also decided that this is perfect bike to learn how to tig weld so Ill also look at purchasing a DC Tig welder and get into that to make Fuel Tanks and Pulley Covers and Manifolds. Should be alot of fun to tinker away on .
  3. 8 points
    yea cool so 1 month later and ive managed to get the fuel tank acid dipped and cleaned, put a liner in it and paint it. such progress, much wow. still not complied. 2019-05-28_03-45-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-05-31_08-22-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-05-31_08-23-03 by sheepers, on Flickr
  4. 5 points
  5. 4 points
    Slowing coming together New thermo housing, stant rad cap, RS2000 alternator bracket, later had to remove and throw cortina one on, RS2000 type won't work with lucas acr style, bracket fowls alternator. Blue themeDays work, helps having basically everything on hand after planing swap for 8 years....
  6. 4 points
    Went over to see Jon at Strange the other day and check the car. Was running like dicks, basically on 3-4 cylinders.. found all the spark plugs to be caked up from lots of turning on and turning off quickly. Jon cleaned em up and she went really well. Drives super nice now but the brakes aren't very good because it's missing a one-way valve in the vacuum line (which I've now provided him). I also sent him over new rear brake shoes and clutch line to install at some point. Now I just have to order a bunch of repair parts and away we goooo... might not be going on holiday this year.. Just because nobody likes a pictureless update.. Yeah it's got a loud af rotary inside..
  7. 4 points
    Just had a looksie at google maps sat images to try and get a rough gauge on the tarmac to gravel ratio. So not very accurate. I believe there to be ~250km of gravel.
  8. 3 points
    well after over 2 years of ownership and passing every wof so far as well as never really letting me down apart from the few times it hasn't wanted to start. there are a few issues with the old girl...after last years hamner meet it picked up a vibration in the drive train.(still looking into that. the motor starts and runs well but it blowing smoke (valve guides are stuffed .(working on that now) so i do have a 205 pinto motor in bits so im going to rebuild that and to factory spec ...no interested in huge cams and twin side drafts ..im happy with the motor in my cortina now so just want the same....its good on gas and can pull a trailer with another car on it fine. so i started cleaning up the old 205 pistons.
  9. 3 points
    Work continues.... Got the motor back and it’s looking mint! Thanks @Mr Vapour!! Chopped the rear end to fit the rear hoop, just need to smooth off round where the steel pressed frame meets the tube steel. An order from 4 into 1 arrived which meant we could crack on with the carbs. Wicked rebuild kit which literally had everything, even included larger jets for the trumpets. Also made a start on the motor, had the bros round help lap the valves and reassemble the head. The lower casing had a oil pan fitted in the bottom which weirdly had two screws and three rivets holding it in. Had to drill out the rivets to remove it and clean the sump properly. Then drilled the holes and tapped a thread in each to add proper screws in.
  10. 2 points
    Quick fixer upper for one last hoon on Queens birthday.... Someone left coffee grinds in the fuel filter..... Yep, that sucks, tank is gunna have to come out, will be put on the winter list. Considering the filter is ~2 years old so I am going to just replaced it and let the rust be tomorrow Nick's problem. The alternator issue turned out to be an OK repair, considering I went about it the hardest way possible! The pulley is meant to have 2 flats that engage on the shaft, my guess is that years ago the nut got loose, was also stripped at some stage in its life to finally work loose until it spun and made a right mess of the lot. My fix? In some odd moment of cheap and quick I decided that fabricating a new pulley was the correct approach. (I really should have just fizzed the pulley onto the spacer and been done with it) Step 1) Wait for the workshop staff to go home and leave some machines unguarded Step 2) Spin bit of 6061 real fast like Step 3) Dig around behind the CNC mills and uncover a largely neglected indexing head and spin many dials real slow and orderly Step 4) Realise the M12 thread is actually poked and have to change the design, interference fit for the pulley and cut a M10 thread with stuff all material free. Step 5) Bake till crispy and seal in the luck thus far. Step 6) Plug it back together Step 7) Dump it back in the hole where no one will ever see it again. Step 8 turn in for the night, waking the household this late with Datsun noise will not be in my longterm interests, will be a long day waiting to test drive! Very stupid/illogical that I put in all this effort, half as much would have grafted a modern alternator into position with much less future hassle.
  11. 1 point
    This car has been a long time in the making acquiring, but being the descendant of an original Datsun foamer, it could be said it was my destiny..... The car being a 1972 Datsun 1600sss, the back story? well, take a seat..... 20 years ago the car in question was owned by a young man in Palmerston North, being an easy target it was stolen and taken on a joyride, thankfully once they had had their thrills it was abandoned to be recovered by the boys in blue, but the good luck didn't last, while in impound some scrots jumped the fence and stripped her of all the fancy sss interior, with the badges, steering wheel and dash board gone, there was not much left to identify it as the performance upgrade intended by the factory. Being the Datsun man he is, when my father got word of it being up for grabs he beelined for the impound yard for a nosey, even though the interior had been stripped, the body was in fairly good shape and for a price that we'd all love to pay now, he loaded it onto a trailer and tucked it up under a tarp in the back lawn. At this stage he had a standard 1600 set up as a track car for competing in classic classes at Manfield & car club sprints, but with a teenage family, i'm sure restoration of the sss was still a long way off. Here's a younger me in the 1600 race car in the early 2000s during a carclub motorkhana, most likely the first time I drove a 1600 too! Somewhere in the mid 2000s the race car got close and personal with the tyre wall at the end of the back straight at Manfield, coming out very much second best a donor shell was required, with the sss being in pretty good shape it was quickly fitted out with all the bits and went on to serve race duties for a number of years, thankfully my father realised that sss body shells were getting hard to find and so when a standard shell popped up cheap, he brought that to convert to a more modern safety standard and the sss was reunited with standard parts and retired to weekend road duties. As all this unfolded, I left home, traveled the world, invested heavily in Ladas, eventually to settle in the Datsun capital of NZ, Christchurch. Two years ago the stars aligned on a SAR training exercise and while stocking up on pies in Fairlie, I spotted this wee beaut Sparking a deep down affection I followed it around the corner to where it stopped and of course I started chatting with the owner, turned out its been in their family for quite some time, and the lovely lady informed me that there was a Datsun club and that they had nationals on in Ohakune, even better was that year's theme, 50 years of the 510! Looking at dates they lined up and before I knew it I was hitching a ride north with our very own Datsun barry Runamuck to meet my father and other 510 foamers from around NZ. After a weekend driving around the central plateau I was convinced I needed a 1600 in my life and a plan was struck to purchase a dereg but complete vehicle that was tucked away, sadly after discussion with panelbeaters over the required rust work for re-vin the costs looked a bit daunting for my current plans. A few months later my father slipped up and offered the road legal sss to me, I rapidly agreed before he could back down, only downside was I had no leave left and a work schedule needing much attention, this meant I had to wait until Christmas break to pick up the car! For now it's late, but I shall dig out some more pics and tell more about the car itself and the mini and major plans ahead. Discussion thread here:
  12. 1 point
    @427carguy has/had an AMR500. that would work a treat at a 1:1 ratio.
  13. 1 point
    Yes exactly. so youll want your crank pulley to have 1.5 times the circumference of the pulley on the super charger.
  14. 1 point
    shit yeah, had a few day dreams about adding forced induction to my cx, one day maybe photo for inspo
  15. 1 point
    Yes yes yes. Perhaps oldschool needs a belt driven inlet manifold thread. I'll share some general blower guff wit ya all. the super abridged version is, a four stroke engine breaths half it's swept volume per revolution. (In yourcase, 600 divided by two being 300cc) on an NA engine, on the intake cycle the engine breathes in air at atmospheric pressure. (14.7psi at sea level) A supercharger is just a pump. (techincally so is an engine) By either using a supercharger which displaces more air than the engine, or overdriving the supercharger to shift more air than the engine displaces, the engine will intake a larger Mass of air than it otherwise would. as this air is mixed with fuel, more power is made. Boost, is a term often bandied about. Boost is only a measure of the resistance between the supercharger, and the cylinder of the engine. Things like a very good or very poor flowing intake tract can effect this. Given you have 300cc per rev, and AMR300 driven at 1:1 would net a boost figure of zero. (Assuming your engine has 100% volumetric effeciency, and your supercharger moves it's advertised volume. (no wear and tear/no losses through belt slip etc) If you drove it at double crank speed, youd feeding the engine twice the air it could otherwise take. Would would be a theoretical one bar. Thats an awful lot of boost for such an old engine. So perhaps 1.5 times overdriven would be a safer "starting point" Thats the abridged version.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    I have a set of them somewhere, you need to chock them pretty good if trying to drive a RWD car up them as they're quite steep and tend to shoot out from under the wheels.
  18. 1 point
    Also there is another bloke in Ozzy that built a blown SR400
  19. 1 point
    Yeah that should be fine if they are made properly of a suitable material
  20. 1 point
    Excellent question! I knew I should have tallied that up, maybe like 100km day one, 50km day two, and another 100 the last day. Give or take somewhat
  21. 1 point
    2ZZ on ITBs with a 6spd box would be magical Smash a MR2 /MRS subrame in the rear and you'll be gold
  22. 1 point
    I'm sure I read somewhere, that the suby sound has a lot to do with the way the zost is from factory. Yeah, aussiegears make them reverse things eh? Bug box can handle maybe 100hp, kombi about 200. Shouldn't hard to find one? Only thing that don't rust! Can convert swing axle floorpan to IRS. Wonder what year the pan is?
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Get it legal as is then send the kent to the bottom of the ocean? Or consider a 4age/2zz
  25. 1 point
    As long as he's dressed as a power ranger, it's acceptable.
  26. 1 point
    Biff the Kent. Some Escort foamer might even pay you good money for it. Definitely go with performance fitting of the shape.
  27. 1 point
    Shouldn't matter for lvv cert - it's not usually a requirement for a lvv certifier to sight the repair cert On rare occasions the certifier might want to see it- the only time I remember asking someone for a copy of a repair cert was an old car with a lot of repairs, where the owner had a repair cert done, then did mods and it turned into a scratch built vehicle, when that happens it is considered a new vehicle and the lvv certifier takes responsibility for the whole vehicle including the body structure So in that case it was me covering my ass as well as I could because I hadn't seen the body before paint
  28. 1 point
    I understand that it would be recorded on LANDATA that the car has been flagged and un-flagged. According to the link below the paperwork has to be kept for two years. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/light-vehicle-repair/introduction/inspection-and-certification-process I don't know how you can access the records though, maybe talk to NZTA?
  29. 1 point
    100% in on this. I just booked 2x 5 bunk rooms at Waikaremoana and currently there are a couple of beds free. $25/night. Cam Glen Neal Sentra Dave Peter Glens Brother Ned (probably maybe) Evan (probably maybe) Sparky Free Holla at me if you're keen to grab a bed.
  30. 1 point
    Source : https://www.facebook.com/Tui/photos/pcb.438873429992186/10156317686493837
  31. 1 point
    My sister's triumph had rain sensing wipers. When it rained, they stopped working.
  32. 1 point
    Glued the strengthening plates on. Pleased how well the upside down welds went. Didn't push my luck, I'll fully weld it later once I've made a rotisserie.
  33. 1 point
    This weekend was productive thanks to a few friends helping (Was on dad duty as well). While a mate was collecting the engine crane, another friend put the wheels on the car and rolled it outside. Some genius thought it'd be a good idea to do a skid (me) so I started her up, sat on the rusty floor and effortlessly ripped a single peeler. Success. All went pretty smooth form here with removing engine, a few shitty wiring examples from the original builder (Wires crimped instead of plugged) but nothing we can't deal with. With minor swearing, the engine was out and it became apparent that the top radiator stay needs to probably be removable. There are scratches up the firewall on the drivers side where the rear engine bracket has about 3mm clearence when trying to remove the sucker. Engine was out finally and the car could go back in ready for me to remove subframes and go on a hunt for some more rust. After all that, no more photos was taken, it all went back inside in a hurry. Spent an hour with it last night getting it to a good position to lift it on axle stands (See: Final resting ground). Plan is to take all subframes and suspension off, I have requested/ordered an energy hyperflex kit from Adam @ Speedscience. will then clean up arms stuff then Por15, install new bush and reinstall to car. Today also bought an engine and body loom from an SIR EG Civic. This will be sacrificed to convert the car to obd1 and also to ensure nothing is missed/fucked from the current butchered Da6 wiring job. It allows me to have free wiring for things like dash fans etc which the car doesn't have... And now for pictures. Rest now sweet Prince. Location of the engine until I can get new bits for it. Should probably do cambelt etc right?  During the process, the was left in the trolley jack... Hmm We only lifted the tow hooks. Hmmm, not this side... (Can also see the traction bar & mounts, needs to be cleaned up or redone) Oh, don't even need to get on my hands and knees to see this lol. That bit to the left bottom is bottom rad stay BTW. You shouldn't be able to see light through that other hole...
  34. 1 point
    Holy shit! I finally had some time to get working on the car again. Thing's have been crazy around here. Been working out a ton (dropped about 40lbs of fat so far and 2" off my waist), did some written testing for being able to apply to a couple of police services back in my home province, and now have some applications in to a couple services. Which means in the next 6-8 months, I may have to move this thing 3200km across the country, so time to start putting some time back into it. The weather finally started to turn around..we had snow 3 weeks ago, and it was 23c on Saturday, so I decided to crack the door on the garage and spend some time on the car. I finally got around to finishing the GL front end. I replaced some old plastic screw clips that held in the lamp surround/marker lamps, popped everything into place and lined up correctly. I also pulled my MK1 GTI lip spoiler I got for my birthday 2 years ago out of storage and decided to do a dry fit. Its only held in place by a couple cable ties, but looks good. I'm going to have to fabricate some little brackets to hold it in place when it comes time. But I think it looks good! Now the big debate is with or without badge? I'm still on the fence. I'd have to modify the badge a bit to fit the GL grill as it came off my factory North American Spec grill. Thoughts? I also apologize for the state of my garage. I honestly haven't stepped foot into it since November of last year except to grab a shovel, so it's a bit of a mess. It'll be cleared up soon enough.
  35. 1 point
    Its a miracle! Only took about 8 years to get the engine in the hole....
  36. 1 point
    In the mean time, the old owner managed to track down the leg shield which he reported was fucked, but I wanted it anyway. Turns out my standards must be lower as its perfect. Perfectly aged! I also ditched the front guard as it looked weird as it had faded to grey and sat waaay to high. Looks much better without in my opinion. And to keep the barrys happy, here is my solution to stop me from losing the key (it is just a random key that works but rattle out when riding). Perfect. Next are plans to big block/chuck a lifan in. Not really going to touch the bike otherwise, as I like the idea of a originalish looking bike but with enough grunt to go adventuring.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    New plate makes me happy. Fitted my new exhaust too. Highly recommend cycleworks.
  39. 1 point
    More progress with the Bluebird left side outer sill. Welded the three outer sill segments together. Started with these two shown previously Then I fixed the sill segments together with these little clamp things. These set up a nice gap to make good weld penetration to the back side. Then starting making tack welds. The first strikes in the center of pic were really bad and missed. Remainder of tack welds were usually on target. About 70 percent complete in these pics. Front and back side shown with good penetration. Front side will eventually get ground and sanded flush. Back side gets left as is. Initial grinding and sanding. After that I held the assembly against a bright light and check for pin holes, fill with weld and complete. It looked pretty good in a fit check against the car body. No weird wrapping or anything. Then on to the joining of the third sill segment to the assembly, same as the first. Except I was checking against the fit to the inner sill on the body before tacking, and after initial series of tacks, because there is a slight bow or curvature on the body fore and aft and I wanted to make sure of no issue. Did a little more rough trimming of the forward end as well so as to permit tailoring a nice fit up against the A pillar and lower stub later on. Finished weld of the last segment. Overview of the situation Then I decided to play with this. No, I did not actually try and jack the car up, just having fun with it. Later on I bolted the doors on again, probably for the fifth or sixth time, and did a final check for gap along the lower edges. Plus I formed the forward edges of the sill assembly to mate up with the A pillar stub with just the right gap next to the fender (or wing, right?) As seen underneath in above pic, there are several joggles along the lower flange to accommodate fit against several parts that are layered on the vertical inner sill plate. Below, the gaps look decent and body lines of door to sill are flush. Installed some trim to show off for the camera. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
  40. 1 point
    I'm a bit stuck, not sure what to do next... Decided to lie under the car and stare at the floor where the gearbox cross member needs to exist. It's a W57 box, so it has a weird angled 'V' shape where the mount bolts on. The previous owner of the box cut up that mount to make it into a flat plate so a different rubber mount could be used. It's the mount on the left, I don't know what it's from. If I use that mount, then add a cross member to it, it will hang much too low under the car. After looking at a photo of the factory Supra/W57 mount, that will also be too low. So I had a look under the Starlet, which has a CA nissan gearbox, and thought "hmmmmmm". So I borrowed the mount off the Starlet. The one on the right. If I use the modified 'V' bracket thing and the nissan mount with some 40mm box as the cross member, it will hang about as low as the factory Triumph mount.
  41. 1 point
    Build of the lifting jack structure Original outer sill panel where the lifting jack pipe was Inside the sill are the remnants of the jack bits Made a forming die to recreate the indented outer shape, test looked good on scrap piece so went ahead Simple as sandwich the panel and tighten the bolt Looks not too bad! Closer examination. The extra metal around the bolt hole gets trimmed out to match original. The lower pop out section (to left) is welded on and then cut off. Wrong position darn it ;( Straight on view after trimming Moving on to recreate the inner vertical stiffening brackets. Takes a bit of imagination since only about half of the originals remained Bits getting ready for weld Checking bits out for fit Sand blasted the original pipe free of rust Now really ready for weld Welded and checking results for fit against inner sill Coated with POR 15 for future rust protection. Turns out this coating can catch fire real easy and sustain flames. Next are the three outer sill segments to be welded together. I've kept a lot of extra flange widths, top and bottom, to resist warping. These flanges gets trimmed back to about 1/2 inch. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/60267-marts-pl310-61-datsun-bluebird-sedan/
  42. 1 point
    AAAAAARGH!! So with my two triangles connected to the subframe mounts, lined up with the centerline of the car and using the factory body reference points, I thought the subframe must be pretty straight. Now I have reinstalled the suspension and wheels(no tyres). I don't know what measurements to trust. According to my triangles the subframe is straight. But with the wheels on I have measurements that disagree. The factory adjustments are set to max toe out and max neg camber. Both sides are at the same height. If I put a straight edge vertically against the wheel, both sides sit 20mm in from the top of the wheel arch. So You would think "it's in the middle". I used a plumb bob to see where on the wheel arch the wheel center was and marked it on the wheel arch. I was having trouble getting an accurate measure using just the rear guard, so I measured from the mark to the A pillar (2030 both sides) and the B pillar (right side 1128, left side 1122) and the leading edge of the rear guard(right 365, left 364). So both wheels are the same distance front/back, right? I've measured from the centerline of the car to the flat bit on the lower part of the sill, along the whole length, on both side of the car, the measurement is the same within about 5mm. So I thought I could use it to measure the toe angle. So I got some 1800mm lengths of aluminium angle and attached it horizontally to both wheels. Then measured the distance between that and the sill(over a distance of 1300mm). According to that, the right wheel sticks ~10mm further out than the left wheel?! The right wheel toes out by 0.8 degrees and the left wheel 0.2 degrees. Sure I could adjust that out, but I shouldn't need to and AFAIK it's a large percentage of the available adjustment. Or I could rotate the subframe anticlockwise(looking from above), but that would move the right wheel forward and the left wheel back and put my triangles off by heaps. So what's right and whats wrong? A wonky subframe could cause it, but I would be surprised if my narrowed subframe was wonky, the jig I used to narrow it was/is substantial.
  43. 1 point
    Subframe front mounts and the jig to allow me to transfer it to the other car. My current thinking is to plate the floor and some of the wheel well, around the front mounts, with 2.5mm, on the inside of the car. If it's not solid enough, I'll tie it into the sill.
  44. 1 point
    Enough backstory, now for the car. As mentioned, I picked it up over the Christmas break from the family home up north, being that it has been used sporadically I put aside a few days to go over every nut and bolt to be sure the trip back to Christchurch would be uneventful. First up, a few small jobs... Sort the petrol smell: The original rubber joiner had given up years ago meaning the tank couldn't be filled past halfway, a crowd in the west island have reproduced them so out with old, in with the new Then came a tune of the engine, I had been nervous about this as i've never touched SU style carbs, turns out they're easy, plus my learning was made faster by having a full set spare to look at. The engine also has a mysterious click from about #2 or 3, I have adjusted the valves but it still doesn't change, oddly it comes and goes, is mildly engine temp dependant and there is good compression on all four, for sure something that will need more digging..... The eagle eyed 510 spotters will notice the brake master setup is not correct, having be swapped out for a different style for race duties. for now I will run with these until I get the original rebuilt and cleaned up. With mechanicals looking ready for a drive I moved onto the interior, how about the stolen dashboard you say? well as luck would have it, a history of writing off Datsuns racing had left my father with just enough bits to kit the car out as required, he even produced a full set of badges that I now have tucked away awaiting some modern technology for reproduction. The carpet was very much in fine race spec consisting of two or three coats of red paint, in order to prevent my girlfriend from running off halfway back I needed something to muffle the road noise, once again the family parts warehouse presented a front carpet in the most delightful shade of poo brown, matched with carefully positioned black mats to cover the tears a more suitable environment to conversation was produced. Yup, white interior, far better suited to summer! With everything packed and a torn bit of envelope to suppress the steering wheel vibration we headed south, we both held our breath over the Cook strait as the Datsun met salt air and stumbled on start up leaving the ferry, incidentally some muppet had forgotten to fully set the distributor after resetting the timing and had come loose, sorting that we drove on to Marahau for a bbq with Alex and Hannah. On stern advice we reluctantly drove over the Takaka hill, well actually I have been fizzing to do this for a long time and boy was it fun, even with 50km speed restrictions and road works its gotta be one of the best drives in the country polished off with an epic view. And that dumps us back home nice and safe. So plans from here? I was planning on a full restoration beginning this winter, the paintwork is pretty rough from being done for the track but i'm just enjoying driving it too much to take it off the road for any considerable time, there are a few things to start with: The engine tick, it may just be me but I want to dig further just in case I have a side draft manifold and throttle bodies, efi was also on the plans, but SU's just drive so nice and the fuel economy is pretty reasonable. Replace a broken shaft spring on the rear carb - this is causing the idle to not fully drop occasionally, no biggie, but sometimes irritating. Complete the CAD models of the badges and get some replicas made, this way I don't have to cry if they fall off/get broken. Get around to picking up a 5 speed or fit the 3.5 diff in the shed, 3500rpm cruise is a tad loud for my increasing age! Repair the split dash, irritates me a bunch looking at it Paint up a few potential rust spots. Actually decide what colour the carpets should be and source new front and rear Polish up the chrome Clean up the wheels Source new window rubbers so the window trims can be installed. While the list is long of potential performance upgrades, I'm not keen on going too far from factory with it and any modifications that can't be reverted to factory are off limits. Long term it really does need a repaint, but the BRE colours are growing on me and the aged look is reflective of why I brought it, for driving!
  45. 1 point
    I made some additional temporary 'jig' brackets that connect into the original shock top mounts. I made them removable so I can still get the cross member out.
  46. 1 point
    My streak of buying awesome parts for supercheap continues. Found some gauges on a local forum on Saturday evening for cheap. Problem was they were going to get sold quick due to how cheap they were and they were an hour and a half north of me. Option 1. Pass and find something else instead, Option 2. hop into the car and drive an hour and a half north through massive thunderstorms and hope they don't sell by the time I get there, or Option 3. Remember I have a friend from uni that lives in the same town as the guy selling the parts, so I got her to go meet him and buy them for me. She also happen to be passing through town today, so she even delivered them for me. The gauges in question though... Older (circa 2004) Defi BF Gauges, Defi-Link Display and Defi Control Unit 2, with 2 optional warning lights. It came with water temp, oil pressure, oil temp, 11K RPM tach, the controller, link display, 2 warning lamps, and all the daisy chains, wiring, manuals and sensors. Only thing it's missing is the cups for the gauges, and one sensor (I think the water temp). Price?.......$60. Lol. It was actually $40, but I threw him another $20 to hold the gauges for me so my friend could grab them. I'm going to go through all the wiring tonight when I get home and run the gauges through some tests to figure out if they still read properly. I figure for $60, if one part is toast, I can flip the rest and make a profit, or replace the parts and still be ahead of the game.
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