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Oh. That was like 15 years ago and the doctor had put his finger in my bum before I went to see it at the movies so the main thing I remember about F&F is the weird feeling of having a wet lubed bum that doesn't go away by wiping it with toilet paper and farts that don't make any sound.

I thought this was cute. A Motronic for each bank. Such technology!

The word association game is always a joy with Pete.

No one likes the tuna round here

Stage 1 Stage 2 Service Time Stage 3 Stage 4 Post Race selfie Back on the trailer home bound

Motronic system exhaust?

This is the best I can do in mine After this, I think I broke my fuel pump

This is what ive been looking for! Im in the same boat. .I inherited my pc vauxhall viscount approximately 10 years ago from my late uncle,iv done nothing to it since iv owned it,it's all original no rust been in dry storage since 85, it's sat in my garage since I got it, has running motor and box but no drive shaft.its a kind of car im not familiar with, i have no paper for it and no one to ask for some, car was last registered in 1985 but nothing is coming up in the system, it still has old black plates fitted, nothing comes up from body tags or plate number when I've called LTSA..finding this post has given me some hope now as i was thinking my only option was turning it into a skid car..this is my first post on oldschool.co.nz and don't access internet much and when I do its usually only Trade me..thanks

For what it's worth in 20 years of building/racing competition cars I've only once ever encounter gas build up issues, the idea that this could be an issue on the street (presuming you’re running good quality pads) isn’t even worth consideration. Our current race car has been reaching temperatures where we are cooking the ceramic buffer between the piston and the brake pad to the point where they are crumbling, and I'm still running non slotted or drilled rotors (still with no hint of gas build up). My feeling is that there is a lot of aftermarket misinformation (i.e.B/S) out there being pushed by 3rd party suppliers. Originally Rotors were only drilled to reduce un-sprung weight, great idea if you’re running a state of the art single seater but probably irrelevant for most other applications. Yes slotting can help control gas build up but unless you’re experiencing it all you’re doing is adding potential stress risers and reducing pad/rotor area per revolution. It would be great there was a magic bullet for rotor selection but there isn’t. The only advice I can give is that you will never regret buying quality components from reputable well established suppliers, (AP, Brembo, etc.).

auto dec carpets suck. also, you could find a shop that does underbody sandblasting and undersealing for repair certs/compliance. I dont think its super expensive to get done, plus they can put rust proof stuff in the chassis rails

Typical, bloody screen turned up today! Had a quick play and set up a script that took the value from my average pressure deviation and plotted it as a bar across the screen. Worked swimmingly when I blew in one tube, but pressure on the other had it inverting at half range, from a minor oversight in pressure difference from the pulses being way over the 2kPa sensor range it looks like i've destroyed the poor thing! No trouble though, i'll source another with a higher pressure range and go from there Cancel that, sensor is fine, I changed the rolling average count to try a different method and it all works fine, seems to be something in the values I'm using, hmmm. Thoughts??? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45307-nickjs-lada-niva-twincam/page-4

17in on the front,

Oh yeah for sure this is the case. But every little helps. I too suffer from poor boot sealing and dont want noxious gases inside the car. Its worse in summer when the window is down (also creating more resistance/drag plus ruffling my perfect hair) On the way back from Blenheim to Nelson we just cruised with the traffic and only passed a couple of cars. I noted that most people seem to sit on 90 kph. I think a lot of this may well be due to the fact that most cars have speedos that over read. Anyway, as we cruised along happily on a sunny afternoon I did some simple maths... I worked out that say over a trip of 100km, the difference between cruising at 90 kph with the rest of the traffic and trying to sit on 100kph and have to try and pass many cars will see you at your destination only 6 mins later. Its not really worth the bother is it? Especially witnessing, as usual, several total tits trying to pass other cars in stupid places.

maybe he's fun like a log at the beach, you could throw rocks at him then leave

Looks like a rover diesel to me, from a 220 SDi to be exact.

Maybe it's because anyone who bought the diesel version had already given up on life.

Maybe ive just had lemons haha, that orange one and a ratty as blue one when I was younger, had to sell them both due to excessive smoke and having no funds. In saying that though, they both still ran well. the cyclone 4g15s though, ive had 3 of them (all in 2nd gen wagons) and had done well over 250ks and still ran perfect with mint comp.

I ran a trip back the other way with a little less stop and start, didnt make too much of a difference though at 7.9l per 100km (36MPG instead of 35) Travelling between 80-100kph most of the way. Might try same both ways again tomorrow or Friday but with a leaner goal AFR.

Edit Just bought slotted znoelli's and police spec pads. And a chip an exhaust and a 10 psi pulley kit..... go and stop this is a first for me.

So I'm working on another Television show and they have a 'Beach Hop' scene coming up. Basically a bunch of sweet old cars and some bogans (including myself) standing around. Filming will take place all day on Tuesday the 14th of June which is next Tuesday. It will be on the North Shore at Long Bay. Myself, Zebra Dude and some friends are taking up about half a dozen cars on Monday night which will then be left there on location with onsite security. The production company are willing to accommodate more cars though and also people. If you are willing to display your car you will be paid for it. If you would like to be a car enthusiast extra then you will also be paid hourly for that, separately. So if you have something and want to put either the car or your car and yourself on TV then just let me know. I'm not making any money out of this, just trying to get some Oldschoolers on TV and put some money in their pockets.

Cheers buddy! bit of a mash of code stolen from everywhere to test the theory and make it go but have now its running i've cleaned most of it up and added the true pressure reading to the bottom line. The sensor has a 2kPa range, could be pretty good for your windflow aero messings about. Hopefully get time in the coming weeks to try hooking it up to the Caldina and see if I can get the MPGuino thingymabob running

Yeah you stop to take a piss and you've just "lost" all of the advantage of driving like a fucken moron overtaking on blind corners etc. Drives me insane seeing some of the crazy driving around Coromandel etc. The ignition timing strategy at cruise on my engine from factory is to advance the bejesus out of the timing until it knocks, then dial it back a tad. So I reckon maxxing out timing as much as possible around cruise region is probably pretty good for economy too.

With an AFR target of 15.5:1 and travelling at 100kph all the way I got 7.8l per 100km. Not a particularly scientific comparison though, as it wasnt the same stretch of road etc. I reckon the speed you're going, and how you're driving makes more of a difference than leaning out the AFR does. Yet leaning out the AFR makes a horrid amount of extra poisonous chemicals coming out of your exhaust. (and a little into the cabin) I think I'd rather just take the penalty of 0.1 L per 100km and the reduced chance of dissolving my brain any quicker than necessary.

Picked up the new springs from archers yesterday; fingers crossed they're as low as I asked ... Always nervous when ordering one off made springs! and pretty much all the ball joints / tie rod ends are stuffed eg; so ordered these in and picked them up today with the lower arm ball joints from auto lign; And gave the front / rear bump stops a little skim to hopefully get a bit more clearance Still have to shorten the shocks (hopefully get that done this weekend) and waiting on the front bush kit coming in from australia, and then it's re-assemble time. http://oldschool.co....n/#entry1603115

I bought Autodec carport for one of my MK 1 GT Cortinas. Fit was absolutely shit and I ended up having to re make it. The issue was the front carpet. That's my experience. Stripping the underside of old sealant is a bitch of a job. I have used a heat gun and scraper in the past. Only thing that worked!

Why do people like supertrapps for braps? Is it the sound, or is it because all the noise falls out the sides they can pass a dB test easier while still being noisy?

Yeah, tacho is intermittent

Where are ya? Also be very careful when pulling the injector out that you are actually undoing the entire injector and not just unscrewing the top half from the bottom half of the injector. (they are a serviceable item) If you separate them then it is a specialist job to rebuild them - very high spring pressures and set up with shims - not a back yard job at all. They come apart like this - you DO NOT want to do this.

You need the plate that the horn button sits in (bolts between the bosskit and the wheel). I got one of these recently, works well http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/steering/auction-1103216322.htm

Just googled them up. They look ugly as fuck.

Manufacturer i think. I think it was something along the lines of the slots being tiresome with the extra load around town etc so they sacrificed a bit at the top end kind of thing.

When they made my old RS Megane, they put slotted rotors in the petrol ones, but plain on the diesels because the extra weight of the diesel engine meant the brakes tended to get more of a workout. I never quite understood that one. Seemed like the opposite of what every other manufacturer does.

He meant the boys faces.

The 4g11/12s maybe underpowered as fuck but they can take an absolute beating. I thrashed the shit out of my old hori'd out matte black hatchy for a good 3years straight with no problems at all and it still ran like clockwork!

There were a few episodes of 8000rpm in there haha

So this is exactly one hr in the tank. And I made a video to show how cool it looks (and used YouTube's filter and music for the first time hahaha)

you can also get 1kg bags of silica beads from Gun city for like 10$ and you can dry them out again in a microwave

pro tip trd brake fluid is the same as motul rbf600 but cheaper

link & details here (sorry for 'other' forum link) Fluid http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40541-Keltiks-Parts-Review&p=523128&viewfull=1#post523128 Rotor's http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40541-Keltiks-Parts-Review&p=523129&viewfull=1#post523129 Pad's http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40541-Keltiks-Parts-Review&p=523130&viewfull=1#post523130

If you want to dehumidify your lock up use calcium chloride (damp rid), put it in a cheese cloth over a bucket and watch it fill up with water.. You can get big bags of it for cheap from pool shops..

Suited and Booted On the Startline Having a bit of sideways fun

Interesting few weeks messing with the carbs, had issues with cylinders not doing much on idle, pulling plug leads didn't change anything. I tried all sorts of fiddling looking for manifold leaks but couldn't track it down. Guessing this was connected to the idle adjustments not doing much on the same cylinders I pulled the jets for the 100th time but this time flushed the passages resulting in near instant success, much happiness! Keeping track of fuel use I'm getting 250-280km/40L tank around town, that equals the open road use pre head gasket, need to find time for an out of town trip and hopefully be back to 400km/tank open road. I have suspicions the pump jets are a little rich from the way it hesitates at low revs, I'll give them a tweak and see how it responds. A few weeks back a differential air pressure sensor turned up from ali express, i've had it running on the work bench and but have waiting on a screen to also arrive so I can hook it up in car to balance the carbs, bit more hi-tech than a clear pipe filled with oil i've used in the past (and quite likely less effective). Today, still waiting on the screen I decided stuff it, lets just do it with the computer: Bet thats a sight not ever seen before, tuning a twin carb Lada with a computer! Things didn't go too well, with the sensor hooked up to the ports on carb #1 during the first run readings were full scale each way due to the pulses from each cylinder, to fix this I sampled at a higher rate and played with a time average over a set number of samples, this smoothed things out slow enough I could read directly off the screen. Opening a balance screw right out increased the pressure value while turning it right in decreased. Assuming this may have been a fluke fluctuation I tried again to the same result, bonus! I gently adjusted things to get a mid range value and closed the vacuum port only to find it had a residual leak, with darkness falling I've left it for now, but will fix the leak, re-test and hopefully confirm my balance made with the tube & oil method (which should be near perfect) If the screen ever turns up I plan on making a simple bar graph to show imbalance between the ports which should be pretty cool!

gone. 2016-06-13_03-42-56 by sheepers, on Flickr

Not much time this weekend, had a footy road trip, but did make up a jig to hold the trans on my bike lift. Coupla bits of waste ply and some 45 x 19 moulding... and this is shaped to fit the pan, weight bearing on the bolts around the edge... And she sits beautifully, should make it real easy to mate up to the engine... Too hungover to do anything else, but getting there...

so its looking a bit sad now. got the dirty lpg tank out and tail lights ect . floors don't look in to bad a shape after the carpet being removed. got to the body bolts and took them out and still doesn't want to come of the chassis

40 valves! imagine replacing the stem seals and setting clearance in that... depending on your budget and packaging requirements you could consider some second hand Fg xr6 turbo falcon ute mufflers these are twin in and out, and flow well on a boosted 4 litre. often these are removed for "performance" upgrades but these are fine at over 350 wheel KW, my ute runs 22+psi on the fatory rear half of the sytem (does have a bigger dump pipe and cat) http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/aberfoyle-park/engine-engine-parts-transmission/ford-falcon-fg-ute-turbo-2008-on/1084126623 not in NZ I know but gives you an idea of what they look like.

Said no one ever. How many bikes do you need = n+1 Where n is the number of bikes you already own.

my "other" car while I sort Gearbox on RED and Exhaust on WHITE and WOF on Legacy dumb fwd offsets on the Mark VI Escort, mags no go :/