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Then bought himself on aliexpress and got back here for free shipping

Went on another run with a few mates yesterday, truck went all good. Seems to have plenty of grip with low tyre pressures. Have been running roughly (need a low psi gauge) 4psi front and 3psi rear last few runs, with no drama. Fixing tune and changing turbo has made it a bit easier to drive, Poser shot by Stu, at top of the palace Some vids mate took. skip to 3:30ish if you're impatient and just want to see a skid

Drove the car over to Hamilton on Saturday to leave with Greg @ Midnight Upholstery for his shop open day. Couldnt make it on the day but looks like it was a good one! Few pics taken by Earl @ Popeye Pics Talk among yourselfs http://oldschool.co....westpala/page-9

I quite enjoy the contrast between the outside of the car (swooshy lines, and quite frankly beautiful appearance) Compared to the strut towers in the engine bay (Which look like a high school metal work project) It obviously does the job etc, but just not quite what I was expecting to see!

that's the oil cap

Bit of an update. I decided on a TD42 Turbo for maximum torks. Engines quite long so one of the cylinders bobs up and down under the dash. Will chuck some better pics up next week or something.

Import an NSX!

cut out the middleman... even outsources himself to china.

Containers are not suitable for anyone, says Budgeting and Family Support Services chief executive Darryl Evans

So a wee bit more has happened. Firstly I modded the head for the injectors to fit and then sent it back to be reassembled Bonnet all repaired and inside painted ready for the outside to be coated And finally put the car on the trailer and went for a ride to drop the engine in. Fitted the new heavy duty exedy sports clutch, bolted up the gearbox and boom in she goes.. And a look at the ride height...not bad, will leave like this for now and see where it settles Got the all important sign writing on too

if you ever sell this... PLEAAAAAASE tell the new owner that to open the boot he must use the cable in the fuel flap Which is opened via the engine bay

You now probably own the lushest magna in Australia.

Christ you talk some horseshit at times Muncie but that takes the cake. A Triumph 2000 or 2500 of any variety getting 4.1 litres per 100km is simply pipe dreams, pure and simple.

Side shot as resquested looks a little off due to driveway is on a slope nothing too crazy

Manu isn't anyone.

Since people are bragging about their figures, with the caravan on the back, one of my dads vals will cut a 68litre tank of avgas in 168kms. He has to bring loads of extra fuel to go anywhere.

That was a great day. Things i learnt: If I coast down the Bombay Hill and stab the throttle at the bottom, all of the smoke comes out. You can buy a set of electronic fender mirrors for $5. Beer out of Gregs fridge is at the perfect temperate. If you swing past a workshop in Onehunga, there will be people working on driveshafts. Still. Poo.

I've found doing skids is detrimental to fuel economy...

Hey people, In honor of my proud Dutch heritage, sometimes I find it to be a bit of fun to try and drive a car economically. It's pretty amazing the difference that you can acheive with some simple differences. As an example... My daily driver. Driving "normally" I will average about 5.5 litres per 100km. Driving "economically" in the last few days I can get low 4l per 100km or even dipping into the 3s. It makes the drive to work a bit more interesting, even if the financial difference is irrelevant. Regardless of whether a car is old or new there are some techniques that can help shave down that gas bill. There are a few interesting things that I've found out while trying to be as frugal as possible: 1. Knowledge is power If you've got a non oldschool daily, that's OBD2 compliant. Get an OBD2 bluetooth unit and a smartphone app that can show you realtime and "trip" fuel consumption. Seeing the numbers as you go, is what turns the whole thing into a contest haha. If not, the best thing to do is write down results. Keep a little notebook. Fill your gas tank to the brim, and record the odometer reading each time you fill up. There is an app called "fuelly" which is essentially a digital version of this that's quite good. But having the realtime info is definitely best if you can. 2. Your car has a particular speed in top gear at which it is most economical. When you drive too slow, you use more gas because your engine is running for longer to cover that same distance. When you drive too fast, your engine is revving too high and/or the aerodynamic drag becomes too high and you use more fuel. Most cars have their sweet spot at around 80-90kph for best economy. For older cars that are a little less aerodynamic, or with 3 or 4 speed transmissions this speed may be a little lower again. If you have an OBD2 setup you should be able to keep an eye on speed and try find that best spot. If you have to take an educated guess, stick with 80kph. 2. Engine braking happens all of the time Everyone knows about engine braking, but what is maybe not obvious is that engine braking forces happen even when you accellerate. If you are driving along on a flat road and your engine is doing 3000rpm. You've got 3000rpm worth of engine braking force that you have to supply power to, before any power can make it to the ground to help maintain your speed. If you're on a slight downhill, just chuck it in neutral. You'll not have the engine braking force dragging on your drivetrain anymore, so the only power the engine needs to make is enough to idle which is generally bugger all. 2. "Pulse and glide" Relating to the above, you use a LOT less gas when coasting in neutral. So coasting for a bit, then speeding back up, then coasting etc etc is actually very economical. Especially on larger engines that may have high pumping losses at low rpm. So for example accelerate to 105kph then coast to 90, accell to 105 drop to 90, etc. You're spending a much smaller percentage of time battling against engine braking forces. As retarded as this sounds, it probably makes the single biggest difference out of anything that I've tried. Dont be a jerk holding up traffic, or nauseating your passengers with this technique. As it's quite annoying. It would also get rather tedious on a long trip. But if you're heading somewhere on your own, maybe somewhere that's a regular trip and you want to try do it on less fuel than you ever have before. This is how its done. 3. Sort the basics If your wheel alignment is terrible and you've got a half flat tire, it's going to cost you some gas. Generally pumping the tires a bit higher pressure helps with economy. Dont lug around 100kg worth of crap in the boot, you're using gas to speed all that stuff up for no reason. 4. Idle while stationary is the worst. The ideal situation is that you're going at a fast speed, with minimal fuel usage. If you're stationary then you're using gas to not travel ANY kms. Dont leave your car idling in the driveway to warm up, get in and drive straight away. Your engine uses a lot more fuel when cold, so you want to minimise the cold period and also make sure you're at least getting some kms out of it. Driving it up to speed straight away helps warm the engine up a fair bit quicker. If you're at a set of lights and you expect to be there for more than 5-10 seconds then switch your car off (assuming it starts reliably haha) 5. The brakes are stealing your economy You've used fuel in order to accelerate the car up to a particular speed, then from here you're using up your hard earned momentum to keep moving forward as the car slows down. When you hit the brakes its like you're throwing away the energy you spent fuel on. I'm not advocating avoiding the brake pedal... But the point is that if you only need to get up to 30kph to get to that next set of lights in peak hour traffic. Dont blitz it up to 70kph and then slam the brakes on right at the end. 6. Aerodynamics are your friend If you wind down your window at 100kph and put your hand out, you'll feel your arm get blown backwards quite strongly. Imagine that same force applying across the whole front of your car, you need to use a fair bit of fuel to overcome this and keep the vehicle moving forward. A more aerodynamic car (like a coupe) will use less gas than a sedan (boo) or a wagon (blergh) although there are huge variations on this depending on how much thought was put into the design. Generally speaking more modern cars have lower amounts of drag, because they started realizing it passively improves fuel consumption regardless of the drivers behaviour. The measure for how slippery a car is, is called the Coefficient of Drag (C.D.) Most modern cars have a known CD value that you can look up. The lower the number, the less fuel it needs to use to push an object of that size through the air. As an example, a Honda Insight Hybrid might have a CD of 0.26. A car designed with no aerodynamic consideration could have a CD of 0.4. If you're looking to buy a new car that will be economical at 100kph, try find out its CD value. A car with a bigger engine but lower CD value can potentially be more economical if you're doing a lot of open road driving. Anyone have anything else to contribute? Feel free to discuss anything relating to being a cheap arse on the fuel front. Thanks to some advanced driving techniques I saved about 90 cents on the way to work today

The swapmeet part was pretty shit. A few mates got some good deals here and there. The car park was pretty rad with heaps of cool shit. I failed at taking pics as I was waaaaay too hungover for that. Top part of the day was playing with this badass Beetle on the way home. Bloody thing gave the poor Esky a fright!!

Was thinking my daily (Barry basic late 90's Galant) was good for what it is on gas. Getting 8L/100km regular driving or high 6's to 7L/100km on long trips. Maybe not after reading other posts haha. Definitely no time to bother with trying to drive economicly! Managed to get it Palmy to Auckland with the fuel gauge reading bang on the half mark (but not really half because stupid engineers not making the gauge read linear) as we were going along on the Auckland motoway. Modified 20v 4AGE with bigger cams etc managed 7.9L/100km Auckland to Taupo last year. Again super stoked about that. A month earlier it was doortin around Taupo circuit doing about 24L/100km.

Would an overtightened cambelt whine hard like pingin gilliez?

Totally, we need to round out the mid life crisis sports cars.

40 litres per 100km Hahaha that is quite impressive. So from my house to Christchurch, assuming using 98 instead of Avgas would cost.... $870 each way for gas alone.

How's this going? Saw on in the weekend at the Trentham Swap Meet - had the barry's attention captivated.

I have been maintaing the just under/over 4l per 100km on each trip in the daily. Based on 45l tank, if I can maintain this I should be able to go 1100km before next refill. (?!) Auckland to Christchurch on a tank of gas... Which is nearly 5 weeks of driving to work and back, West Harbour to Penrose. It'll be interesting to see how the OBD2 compares to the fuel top up + check kms method though. I have started using fuelly so time will tell at next fill up... in a few weeks. It's taken hilariously long to go through just under 1/4 of a tank. On my other car, there are a few plastic underbody panels etc that have been off the car that I'm refitting to see if it helps at all. Some look to just be stone gaurds, but I think some of the other bits would contribute in a useful sort of way towards reducing drag a little.

So first of all, I drove from Auckland to Rotorua and back without any major issues. Was getting some noise from the front left wheel by the time I got home though. Fuck. No doubt something I cocked up when I put them in. The leading theory at the moment is that I just did it all back up too tight and the long drive at higher than norm speeds cooked it. Anyway, replaced and sorted now, seems to be okay. Next thing in trying to continue this project on a bit with effectively zero budget is getting the original wheels back in a better state. I'm going with a darker grey and decided to try the Lyndar paint system from Supercheap. I got a can of VW Pepper Grey mixed up, seems to be pretty good. This is the first coat, over a dark grey primer. Couple more coats, goes on easy without tooo much stippling/orange peel. I think it should come up good with a clearcoat Shiney bits just sitting in place

I made a bonnet, to try cut down some noise, or at least reflect it towards the ground. I made it from rimu. LOL. The awesome finish is from the flap disc on the grinder. And on concrete, it cuts down almost, possibly, absolutely NO noise at all. WINNING!

So I ordered some new OEM HT leads ex Japan, imagine my surprise when they finally turned up and this was printed on them: Mazda must have changed suppliers in the last ~25 years, hah. Mildly annoyed they are blue instead of factory orange (to match the turbo hat and radiator fan) but I guess beggars can't really be choosers. One odd paradigm I noticed when swapping over was that the trailing leads have switched back from stud-type to solid tip terminals (thereby rendering this previous post completely academic). I'd had the foresight to order some more BR9EQ-14 plugs from Rockauto while they were US$1.18 each on clearance, so installed a pair of these with the solid tips now attached. You can see the two new bright red coils at bottom left, hah. Now the car pulls to redline better and runs smoother than ever (probably the best it's ever been), and even started with no issues since it was last driven in January, so I'm somewhat happy. Discussion: http://oldschool.co....showtopic=27846

the fella I am acquiring the mx5 engine from has sent me this photo of the motor pulled from the car just the wiring loom to come out and split the bellhousing from gearbox then its ready to go. got bit excited and brought some goodies to give the b6 a spruce up when it arrives, also thinking of rewiring the non engine side of the loom while I'm sorting out the mx5 loom to suit by putting in a new fuse box ect, give the lighting side of things some relays.

Imagine if some time in the future, your grand kids say "Grandpa, what was it like back when there was petrol? Did you have a car like Mad Max?" And you're like "I owned a pathetic car and then drove like a jerk to save myself an immeasurably small amount of money" Seeing them frown dissaprovingly would be awesome

Just make sure you're in 4th or 5th gear to get best Litres per skid kilometer.

finally got all the beadlockers on after getting the rears to fit over the brakes short vid bro took on the weekend.

Just because I'm a weirdo I spied this at Pick a Part Wellington - a NZ-new V3000 SEi with digital dash and full steering wheel pod mounted climate control. Had never seen this setup before!

so I've still been working on this POS. I have done: - fitted remote central locking and swapped out front door handles for ones without key barrels for someone to screw driver. Yes I have run power lines to the boot if I get a flat battery etc - fitted power mirrors and permanent hidden power feed to dash cam - finished fitting the maroon interior and retrimmed the roof lining as it was sagging down - swapped out shitty rear speakers for not so shitty speakers - replaced a rear brake caliper as the handbrake mechanism had seized - swapped over the best five rims I had from a set of ten - doubled up the number of horns and added a relay Future plans are EFI swap it with Magna TR/TS manifold/loom/ECU etc and maybe five speed swap if I can be bothered - I kind of like the super low gearing and the surprising smoothness of the stock auto.

Would of updated last night but Botophucket was not available. Anywho yesterdays progress on the lowering job. Take note of the Lovells springs box beside the car in relation to height/ drop before Boing Comparo not too much difference half way through the job I got worried if there would be any difference (would of felt like a right dumb cunt if i swapped in the same type of springs).Also took the gamble and Didnt buy new shocks to match good thing I didnt as the springs remain captive when car is jacked up- score i suppose Also found the rear shocks are Bilstein units. Cool! no pics of them yet as I didnt have much time and the final Result As you can see shit be lower so quite happy with that. had to take the Towbar off to shut the garage door still then only have a Bee's dick clearance front and rear of the giant sedan More yet to come Cheers

I'll accellerate slow-ish up to say 95-100kph Then put car in neutral and coast down to say 80-85. then accellerate again, rinse repeat. You only end up with foot on the gas for about 1/4 of the time or less because it actually takes quite a while to scrub off your speed. What I find is that I am generally travelling at the same speed as traffic around me anyway (Most of my trip to work is 80kph zone) but using 20-30% less gas.

That was a choice day! Well done on the successful event Greg.

Tried to make the door work this afternoon. It's so handy being able to access so much of the door innards by taking off the strakes. Slightly alarming how little side-impact protection there is though.

You still owe me a shirt from the Container sale Greg. Not mad, just been shirtless for the past year and half.

Powerful cars save lives. And the environment (from not being written off and scrapped).

crown and Gloria about the same length

Ah sadfacerednoseclowncar can not be unseen!!!!! Finished off the drivers door today. so I still need to do this on the other door, but I really want to get on with finishing the heater channels and get some paint on the underneath and the pan before the weather gets colder.

jeah, love the OS/non sheepers way - 'do it once, do it right' + cost of doing it right = throw bare minimum in there and see how long it lasts, multiple times

Great for reheating pizza too

cheers to archetype

Pretty much carrying on from where I left off. I made a new shifter... The old shifter looked to be part W58 welded to 85/86 stuff... And the new parts I machined up Because I lengthen the selector end by 25mm to reduce the throw of the shifter, I had to make this space plate to compensate for the difference in length And all together Put a bend in the shifter, towards the driver side and back a little bit. Big fuck off shift knob installed too

Got the exhaust manifold tacked together. Each runner has145mm of straight, 3 bends and enter collector in firing order. Because you need every last bit of power and crisp exhaust note, coming from your 4age Hilux

engine is now on the stand and dissassembled ( more or less) SURPRISE MOTHERFUCKER!!!!!!! Fuck! cylinder #6 why must you torment me? What do I do now bloody holdens

That spoiler has got to go.