PedRac3r

You get a really good powerband with the reed valve over piston port. Used to be kinda peaky when it was piston port, with power coming on around 8k rpm and hauling ass to around 17k then slowly dropping off to 19k, power comes on much sooner and a little better up top.

Couldnt find any of my old photos, used to have heaps, but this was nearly 13 years ago (Im 26 now)... Been lost through the few PC's over the years I guess. I dug it out of storage though, exhaust and other bits and pieces have some surface rust on it. TS Reed Cases, 2mm stroker crank, ESP ported cylinder head with the combustion chamber re-machined, Tillotson carb, ADA S1 pipe. Frame has a 3mm fender fully welded... as you know they break off after time. Billet wheels, rear needed a beadlock from memory, as the rubber would begin to expand and seperate from the wheel which felt pretty dodgy at high speed.

I built a few Go-Peds back when I was 11-13, still have one. Ill see if I can dig up some old pictures of it. Got Trevor Simpson reed cases, ported, 14:1 compression, ran it on methanol for a little while but too much up keep for a toy. It was pretty quick, would rev out to 19-20k rpm, I could be hooning down the foot path on a main road passing cars doing 50-55kph...

#Prerunner build is look good Kris! haha. Seriously though, next update should be it jumping the KP...

Yeah - sent the cluster to them, sorry should have been more clearerer

If you got a Link, then Roman and Stu are onto it. I did the same thing in my AE86 so that the stock rev counter works with the Link ECU. I just sent it down to NZEFI and let them deal with it, think it was only 30-40 dollars. Then you can calibrate it on the link (it will do a needle sweep with key on), more accurate than it could ever be from the factory.

You'll want one of these connector sets if your going to make a new engine harness http://www.nzefi.com/products/wiring/connector-sets/. No need to be cutting and soldering up in hur. Also speak to NZEFI about your shielded cable, Id imagine they would have a pretty good idea where to get it if they dont have it in stock already. Also www.msel.com for all your connectors, wire and heat shrink.

Has anyone nicked your oil filter yet?

Moving the rack for and aft will effect your ackerman angle closer to full lock, by altering the angle of the tie rod ends in relation to the tie rod/upright/knuckle (top view) and the leverage (and distance) it can apply to the tie rod.

You could probably run a Link Atom to control just ignition and go coil on plug, if you cant source a ignition kit like above. Obviously a bit more coin involved, but would ultimately allow the engine to be tuned better, and you could have ignition compensation tables for IAT's, water temp etc. Throw a few more pressure/temp sensors at it and you could data log/be warned of pressure and temps (fuel, oil etc). Food for thought.

So what are your thoughts on the GTX stuff?

Looks pretty sweet! Should have a pretty wicked doooort to it haha.

I found the same problem with the STA bends as above, they suck. Chase, Autobend or Steel and Tube is where you want to get your bends from.

Had you been missing a screw driver? haha. You could look at raising the engine 7-8mm (which shouldnt have to much effect on much else), and same with ride height, to give you another 15mm sump clearance?

It has been a few weeks since an update, I was hoping to have everything done and painted by this point, but theres still a fair amount of work to do. I finished off the rear end/diff rebuild on my brothers car and got that all back together and driving, which has free'd up some space and cleared my plate so to speak. With my attention focused back on the front clip for my car, I was able to finish off a majority of it. Got the front tub end cap panels welded on which added a lot of rigidity back to the tub section. Picked up a new intercooler from Fenix. This one is slightly larger with 500x300 core, instead of the old 380x230 core. So intercooler and oil cooler mounts were added to the front clip, along with radiator and bonnet pin mounts. Made up some headlight mounts and got those welded on. The plan was originally going to be to have the entire head light mount to the front clip, so removing the front end was easy. At this stage only the inner mount of the headlight is attached to the front clip, and the standard outer mounting bracket still attaches to the front guards. Got the new tubs mocked up, they still need a little more trimming and tweaking here and there. Will remove the engine before I go ahead cut the factory tubs out and weld these ones in, which is pretty much where I'm up to at this stage.