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Righto, gearbox mounts. The most suitable ones I could find were about 10mm shorter than I wanted so I thought some packers were in order. Also there was probably not going to be enough room behind there for an M10 nut once I had drilled the holes... So then I thought this could happen; Sweet. It was a bit difficult to get them positioned in the holes cos of the angles but brute force was the way here. And after quite a considerable amount of fucking about with alignment tools and hammers etc I had this; A quick test drive showed no discernible improvement in the ride, but it is more likely to get a warrant now. Late edit; I should have thought about it some more and not welded the spacers on, drilled and tapped another hole in the center of the spacer and just bolted them to the existing hole in the mount. Bit late now and that shit should outlast me anyway. It will be years before it needs more loving.

Convertible????????

Next weekend the lazy Trimatic is comming out .....along with the engine and radiator. I intend on installing this stuff The five speed has had a recon with new seals, thrust bearing and the left hand thread bolt near the back. A suitable drive shaft from a VK that has been ballanced and will mate up with the five speed. VK pedalbox and clutch cable. Will also remove the clutch fan and run an eletrical one with an adjustable fan controller i picked up at the swapmeet. Skids on sunday all going well

its probably because your definition of "fit" means it bolts in and has clearance and doesnt rub on the body and looks right. whereas everyone elses definition of fit, is the same definition that those big bum poly/maori girls have when they are choosing to wear tights that you can see through because the elasticity has been stretched well past the manufacturers design parameters

A friend bought an old Delica in Auckland, did a fit out and shipped it to Canada. He is currently in Alaska about to turn around and drive to Brazil... to http://overland.dikastro.com/

Got the lower airbag mounts all done. Chucked the airbags in. They sit good, just a little too close to the lower rear arm so might grind a little off. Cool video:

I see pros and cons for the idea. If it was a real good bunch of mates it would work best. If I was involved I would have to trust all the others. But then like the others on here I would only really be interested if I got access to big equipment that I just can't fit - hoist, lathes etc. Personal experience tells me it was hard enough having to manage a workshop with staff who were being paid to use the supplied tools. but even then (and I am sure others who have worked in a workshop or own rental properties will attest) some people just don't give a shit about other peoples things or milk privelages to the maxxx. Common issues; Shit gets broken and no one owns up Shit gets left in a mess People "borrow" stuff that never shows up again People hog time at certain things to do work for everyone else (perkies for their mates.) As I am writing this I am convincing myself it won't work without the right people. As I said before the difference between supplied tools, paid to use them and supplied tools paying to use them is going to lend people to have some sense of entitlement to do more with them for longer.

Ahh, the old brake pad falling out trick... Check your rotor thicknesses and keep an eye on your pads to make sure it doesn't happen again. I had an incident when racing Rhys's AE101 once at 160kph going into Higguns... The front of the car wasn't that happy about it.

Lots going on still, getting through it slowly, All the panels are on, windscreen in. Took it off the hoist and fitted the truspokes for the first time on the paint, looks epic, stoked as with how it turned out! Had to get some 5mm spacers made up for the front of the truspokes to clear the disk brakes, and have had to get longer wheel studs as only getting 4 turns so got some of them on the way. Am pulling the front end apart to grease up and adjust and put together for the final time hopefully, Brake are nearly done just need to finish making the front lines, Steering column in just got to refill the steering box and refit then steering is done! Got a few bits on the water mostly lots of chrome but few minor things to finish jobs, Doors are going back together, had door handles rechromed so those are on, and had the catches and latches zinc plated as well as all the window winder mechanisims etc, nice and clean! Imported a full 2.5" twin stainless system with mufflers, just need to make a few brackets, was a heap cheaper than buying steel etc here and making! Already had stainless headers to go with. Should keep the underneath clean as!! Couple of pics (still no paint pics!!) Yarns over here ---------------------------> http://oldschool.co....westpala/page-5

Camber gains via Beachlander@7tune.com

Vehicle has been transported to a good friend of mines garage and is ready for us to start the panel and painting work this afternoon and hopefully reassemble whats left of the engine n fire it up

A bit more progress this week. LSD turned up a few weeks back but it had a broken shim, turns out the guy I purchased it off had two so he sent me the other one and I returned the original. The second one that turned up was a step up again, its still only a 1-way but its a full blown Cusco MZ version with some pretty awesome looking clutch plates. Searching around the web these are a pretty solid LSD so I am super stoked as I landed it for a fraction of the new RRP of close to $2000. So on arrival I stripped the LSD down and checked the condition of the clutch plates - they are pretty much brand new! I also checked the what the lockup was set to as the plates can be stacked in different configurations. Currently set to 100% lockup which I am assuming should be good for some Dorifto action. Next on the list is to send the LSD and my diff carrier up to Steely Gears and get him to set up with new bearings, solid pinion spacer etc. I have been looking out for velocity stacks for some time now. I looked pretty seriously at the SQ engineering ones as he is one of the few that do a solution longer than the standard 50-75mm long that are largely available. A couple of weeks ago I spotted a local company that does velocity stacks less the flange at 90mm long. I dropped in and had a looks, turns out they are correct diameter for the 20v and seeing as I am about to get a run of Ali laser cut why not add 4x 20v ITB flanges to the order. Good friend owes me a favour so ill get him to Tig the stacks onto the flanges and they will be good to go! Test fit of trumpets. Looks pretty good to me. Also while some mates were in Japan recently I got them to pick me up an HKB 25mm Boss kit spacer. Now my steering wheel wont be jamming me in the leg.

Just a thought, I had these exact symptoms when I had an incorrect knock sensor fitted, it would keep thinking there was no knock so smash in heaps of advance. It's possible that the car has a faulty knock sensor, you wont necessarily get any error codes from it. When I was driving with a blown knock sensor it would take ages to show a fault. As in, 10s of hours of driving. Here's a copy paste about it, keep in mind this is exactly same engine as what's in the Caldina: It's in a prick of a place to get to though, haha. But I guess you could bench test the knock sensor or something. Regarding the VVTI it's normal that under idle / low load it's not really advancing the cam anyway. So I wouldnt expect problems from VVTI alone causing the motor to get super hot / lean under cruising conditions.

This thread here has captivated me. The lengths that this fella is going to rebuild an old rusty Rx2 4 door and do all the panel pressings himself. I know this car and have been in it as it belonged to a good friend so for me its fucking awesome to see it getting rebuilt. The guy who has bought it and restoring it is a gifted engineer with some awesome tools/machines at his disposal. But then he goes the next step and makes his own machines like a fucking awesome bead roller. http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/178941/mazda-complete-japanese-tinworm-infestation?page=1

So this is arriving in my hot little hands in an hour or two, assuming it doesnt blow up and/or my sister does not crash it on the road from picton. I am such a dick, I dont like British cars, and anything not a wagon is stupid, so obviously I have acquired a british saloon. Got it from a mate in AKL who has had it for many years. He only let me have it on the basis that I slam it, so me and sidewaysickness have been planning that out. There will be more pics when it has arrived, but here is a potato quality one from my sister as she left Picton just now. Discussion Thread

Make sure its a slow speed also for stainless.

Thanks Clint.I have just had a look at the standards and struggled to find any information on how large these load bearing plates should be OR how much weld surface area is considered OK for my rear mounts I'd really like to weld this 80x80x3mm plate (with captive nut) along the two supported edges and then box in the two unsupported edges with more 3mm plate. (And repeat on the other side of the seat) Do you think this would be OK or should I just weld a plate to the tunnel, one to inside of sill and bridge with box as discussed above. Thanks and sorry about the paranoid questioning

Lots of people make longer shackles etc. Make sure you use grade 8.8 bolts with a shoulder or crush tube (if the bushes don't come with them) so that you can lock the nuts up tight.

I re read what I posted and edited to be more clear. The dirty steel will cause the stainless to rust.

Oh crikey, I was kind of expecting an answer like it contaminates the copper etc. Thanks for the heads up. I'll make sure I change the media when blasting ferrous metals and chuck some magnets in for good measure!

Stainless is really easy to contaminate with mild steel dust.. Blasting it into the surface will cause tears (edit. From your eyes, not in the metal) the first time ya stainless gets wet. We have to be very careful here at work to keep the two separate for this reason... Ideally you'd have two cabinets.

If ur blasting all that nice shit in there please keep ferrous metals out!

Get them dipped in that transfer shit. Get the centers in tartin pattern

haha good things take time and life chucks everything else in the way also, yeah look forward to seeing a vid of it on a track, its now got me wondering wether i could fit a set of those itbs to my NA motor in my ute to ditch the carb! keep up the good work

A bit of an update.. Got a bit frustrated with the output of either compressor not being able to keep up with such a small sand blaster, so I started from scratch again This time I picked up an unused 2nd hand cabinet that 's a bit larger, added a dust recovery system and instead of using garnet I'm using glass bead. Wow, what a difference, it seems the glass media cleans 2-3 times faster than garnet on the copper/brass/aluminium and ssteel bits I'm doing and I can see in the cabinet at all times, often with garnet it just turned a sandstorm in a box. I'm blasting at lower pressure which means the compressor can keep up too. Cant help but keep rummaging in corners of the shed for things bead blast

its because NZDM

I read that whole thing in your voice... But yeah, that sounds rad.

Bahahahahahahahahahaha, Neil and easy job in the same sentence, good one John. I wasn't keen to cut my car up to fit a budget chinese radiator, its beneath me, haha. (though using one is apparently ok) I talked to a nice Man from fenix today, and he swears the fenix and redline ones are different, said he would pay for postage back if it doesn't fit straight in, so a pretty black radiator will show up on Monday, and then we shall see.

I'm always stoked when I have a valid reason to hit my car with a hammer.

Hello 4x114.3 Set up On the old work mill which we added a DRO to recently. Great for doing pcd's without verniers or pen and paper.. Only had a 12mm cutter so need to poke the holes through to 14mm and press the studs in.. That 0.02mm on the z axis is the movement in the bed when you lock the bed down..

So decided to do somthing to make this cool so I get some more motivation de springing it worked, The back is a pretty good height the front needs some cutty cutty to make it the right height. Now Im pretty keen to get rid of that grill the makes the rear window sit to high because I hate it and lower the rest of the roof to suit, a bit like this. Any advice welcome as Iv never undertaken a roof chop befor cheers.

Popping put babies and turning forty I hope your undies are still dripping and naughty I want to know why you've been away My cheese rod aches and I'm turning gay It's been so long since we've heard from you I'm lonely and I've started mining poo Are you building a bike, are you wrangling a snake? You're causing the teeth of my fly to break I'll buy you a teddy, I'll suck on your feet Just please my love will you polish my meat.

A link removes all the emissions crap. All that extra plumbing is there to run the sequential turbos? Mazda do like to make a simple motor complicated. And doing stuff to live up the the unreliable stereotype. However all those vacuum and extra plumbing things are there to remind us that j-ports and 51mmIDA's are they way of the future. Great job on the build thread! Following with interest and envy. .

that will be why no cunt ever bolts the things in properly. i have done judging at 4&rotree show in auckland last couple of years and probably a third of the cars had radiators held in with a mixture of gravity, cable ties and hopes & dreams

Does this have just one O2 sensor or is there a second one further down? Any chance that the oil gallery to the vvt solenoid has been blocked up by sealant when the head gasket was done? I don't now about the old 3S-GE, but the newer engines, such as 1NZ, if you activate the vvt all the way they way with the scan tool they will stall.

Your unpicking of that car was an inspiration for me to stop being a fairy and remove the skins of mine, which I am very grateful for because I found that terrible rot which I have since fixed. Please carry on with it. It's awesome.

So I've finished off the fab work for the tunnel, seat mounts and fuel tank box. Really happy with how the seatmounts came out - if you know me I'm 6 ft 2 and when I sit in the driver's seat my shoulders are below the window height of the door. I made the seat mounts so they are wide enough to fit a 4009 wide head restraint seat as that is what I'll use as a drivers Seat and depending on who ends up in the Co drivers seat I have enough flexibility to put a bigger seat in if needed. Currently I have a skinny 4000 for Co drivers seat which will be fine for running in the car and getting used to driving it again. Made up sheetmetal box for fuel cell to be housed under. Made sure I made it the right size so I can fit a semi slick through the parcel tray opening so I can fit my tyres in the back, drive to a race meeting then drive home. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Made some straps for each side as it was the best way to make it fit up properly. Stitched the box in from underneath and will urethane-weld the top to seal it up. Looks like most of my floor has been replaced now.. Finished welding the tunnel into the floor. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Started to get good at welding panel steel. Had my subframes and swaybars sandblasted and yellow zinc dipped by the good old bugger at manawatu electro plating as opposed to just painting them black again. Really happy with how they came out. Got all the bolts passivated silver also for some contrast Subframe and arms assembled. Arms move freely now and don't bind up like they used to. Can't imagine how much better this is going to make the handling! So job for today is to get the chassis into the trailer so it can go back to the sandblasters tomorrow. Will get bottom of car re-sandblasted and will get them to prime + paint the underside and wheel arches. I've bought some 2k base coat white which I've had good experiences with so hoping it will be a hard paint for under the car. Plan is to have the car rolling in the next 2 weeks so I can put everything together for the move to the tron!

I would consider using one if it had tools/facilities I don't have eg hoist, presses, pipe benders, lathes, spray booth yadda yadda Then again I couldn't be bothered with fuckwits breaking stuff, so many clowns won't ask how to use something if they don't know. Would there be a supervisor keeping shit in order? If not I probably wouldn't bother.

Create a survey. Post link. Then you'll get more info and related to what you want/need. Unless this thread is to create said survey, lol. In which case: I would use it (if I was a city critter) A bay with a hoist and bench. A bay with a bench. A sanding bay with a bench. All with air/power/light/water adequate ventilation. Refuse/recycling/waste oil. Pay per hour (then you don't get people parked in the damn things). Wouldn't expect tools, that would be a nightmare for the poor bugger running it! And a bar next door/connected

Certifier came and looked at this last week and said everything looked good. His only suggestion was to box the whole chassis because of the engine upgrade. Finished the top airbag mounts in the front end. Fitted together quite nicely. Just need to get the lower airbag plates laser cut, then drill some holes for the bags and the front suspension should pretty much be done for now.

Hi Clint Im thinking of building an exact replica of the flintstones car. My understanding i can do this using the factory wooden chassis if built as a replica scratch built. My question is can i get solid concrete wheels certified ? If so who do you suggest i can see to get them made. Also if i import a Chev truck with no paper work to comply it. Can i change 60% of the chassis to register it as a scratch built ?

Thread hack Here's some pics I took today.

What's with new icar welding thing

Finaly got the wheels mounted, exhaust done and a tune! The vacuum advance has a hole in it so am trying to source a new one, then the tune can be finished. I have only been able to find one supplier and they want $158 for it! So may end up buying a whole dissy new or second hand and using it for parts and spares. She was running like POS last night and I found out today that the brand new thermostat has locked shut (I even boiled it and it wouldn't open). Whiped it out and drove her around without one in and a huge difference off the bat. Will slap one in tomorrow night. I aim to get some cool pics up but here is one i got tonight before it got too dark. Front /rear ride height needs a tweak......not sure if I should raise the back an inch or drop the front. Will let the suspension settle and put pics up for your guys 5c on the matter. lovin the mags!

If it wasn't for work I'd come to wagnats and twerk, drive you guys bazerk while my hips jerkity jerk.

My minds gone numb Trying to figure out if 9 fingers include thumb. Imagine the pain and bunghole diameter gain, tears would remain long after the bedsheet stain. Plunging into her drain would fly me insane, nine fingers of fury to tame while she screams my name on a plane. We could make it a game! Or are you insane? 9 fingers could Mame so be careful what you claim as mummy told me not all buttholes are the same.

Poetry..it's been a while. Its like rapping for white people? Yo Navneal drop me a beat. If you were my mum I'd never be glum, how many fingers can you fit in your bum? Yo yo?

So.... the starfire is out and the 202 is in, running and holding fluid. Waiting on a longer throttle cable (should be here monday/tuesday). Suspension is in, front and rear discs mounted. All that remains is to change the rear bumper, bleed the brakes, fit handbrake cabe, exhaust from extractors, wire the tacho, fit the new (longer) cable and get thoses hotwires mounted. Will look at a leky fan but that can wait. Runs mint, cant wait for brakes so we can take her out for skids. Once i can take it out of the garage and get the wheels on ill post better pics.

Say hello to my new 14'' friends. Before and after. They have been machined back, repaired, painted and slotted to 5x120. New centercaps and shanked wheelnuts.........CAN NOT wait to mounts these suckers

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/60s-style-gasser-willys-build.40254/