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it goes.

Sweet Howe steering column Mount I picked up from Summit.. Got the front and rear wheels on.. Accelerator Pedal mounted - AU Falcon pedal, Suzuki swift cable. Exhaust MKII Forklift radiator, dowels through the bottom, and insulated with sway bar link Nolathanes up top R32 Skyline 4pot. Being locked diff the single 4 pot will suffice, if its too much then I can drop back to a 2pot using the same mounts.. Re-made seat brace,mounts and should seatbelt mounts. Driveshaft Loop Driveshaft Cover 3mm Plate Wilwood Reverse mount pedal Box. Before someone jumps in and informs me I cant use it. The Balance bar will be removed - and Im only running the single master cylinder for the brakes, clutch will still be utilised. - So it meets the rules as brake bias isn't allowed to be adjustible. Sat the Jig on the ground, tyres are just touching now, sat all the arms in place - but not bolted up tight

getting there. should be able to turn the key and see if it will go tonight. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr

Bloody hell, looking back through previous posts, its been over 2 years since I cut that section of guard off to rebuild it! I've nearly fixed that bit, I swear! I had been thinking about building the donor car into a trailer for camping trips, or taking inspiration from Bantams teardrop camper, I was going to cut it infront of the windscreen and make it into a caravan. Upon inspection the other day it is just too rusty to do anything with, so I cut off the straight rust free bits for repair panels when the inevitable happens to the orange race car, and scrapped the rest. Good fun. I did feel quite bad

So we doing this again next month?

this just makes me pine a starlet with crappy snow tyres, stock springs and feral truck mudflaps

UJ I bet you only ditched the booster because it didnt work after you drilled weight reduction holes in it

I ran no booster on my race car for years. It required plenty of pedal effort, but the brakes worked very well, and I think it probably helped in avoiding flatspotted tyres. Getting a suitable pedal ratio is important. Don't mess with M/C sizes unless you also mess with the wheel cylinders/calipers too. Getting a reliable source of vacuum on a small race motor isn't easy. I'd ditch the booster and call the weight saving deliberate

Wow, can’t believe that it has been almost 2 years since I last updated this. Quite a lot has happened but unfortunately not much of it has to do with the car (well not this one anyway). So at the beginning of last year an opportunity to move to Nelson came up so we packed everything up and headed North, the car ended up in storage for a while so I used that as an excuse to get another Anglia. I figured I would post it in here as it is now sporting most of the bits off my other one and will probably end up with the motor in it as well eventually. Here are photos of when I got it. It has a 1600 escort motor in it that has been bored out and has 1300 pistons and a 234 cam in it, the rest of it is pretty much standard Anglia. So I cruised around in this for a while until the wof ran out and seeing as the motor wasn’t certified I figured that I would swap the suspension and brakes out of my other car and get this one certified. As things tend to go with my projects I also thought that it was a good opportunity to change a couple of things while I was at it. First up was the suspension, because the lower arms that I had made weren’t going to be able to be certified I decided to go with some new Mk2 Cortina ones, fitting Cortina struts to an Anglia results in a heap of positive camber which isn’t too cool but with some adjustments to the top hats it looks like I can get it back to where it should be. At the back I added some clearance around the rear leaf spring attachment point so that I could run a flipped top leaf, I had done this in my other car but don’t think I had any pictures of it. I also changed the shock absorbers to the stud type end and reinforced the wheel tub where the stud ran through, probably should have done this on the other car as it was a heap less work. Anyway with 1” lowering blocks in and my wheels on it ends up looking like this. I am pretty happy with this, it has a bit of negative rake with the back sitting lower than the front but I kind of like it that way, looks broken which is cool. I might look at some shorter springs for the front eventually but it is good as for now. Then I looked at the brakes, the front ones were ok (solid rotors and escort callipers) but I had intended to go for vented ones eventually anyway so I got some Capri ones and a spacer kit from Palmside to suit the M16 callipers and rebuilt them while I was at it. This is probably way more brakes than I need but eventually these will be stopping the rotary so I can justify the cost to myself. The back brakes stayed the same but while the diff was out I swapped the head from the 4.11 ratio Anglia one to a 3.9 ratio one that the new car came with. I would like to put a lsd in it but it is just a bit too expensive for me at the moment. So at this point I hit a couple of snags with the brakes, some of the brake lines that I had made up for the rotary unfortunately didn’t suit the 1600 as the exhaust is in a different place and they interfered, so after thinking about it for a while I decided to use this Wilwood pedal box that I bought ages ago for the other car but didn’t end up using. This may seem like a bit of an excessive way of dealing with a brake line interference and it probably is but what can I say, it makes more sense than having the pedal box sitting on the shelf. Anyway I made this mounting frame up which bolts through the master cylinder holes on the firewall and clamps to the steering column, here it is mounted up in my old car, which is really useful for this sort of thing at the moment, I will switch it out in the new car as soon as I figure out how I am going to deal with the accelerator pedal. I might try and tie it in with some of the other mount points as well, I’m not sure if it is ok to clamp to the steering column as it may not be considered structural but I haven’t found anything yet that says that I can’t do it. The only issue with this is that things get a little tight under the dash between where the reservoirs feed into the cylinders and a brace that comes out to support the dash but I think I can get around this with some banjo fittings, failing that I will just add some clearance to the brace. So I was also thinking that it may be a while before I get the rotary mounted and I was offered a 5 speed Type 9 gearbox from a guy in the Nelson Anglia club so this is the next mission, I have brought a fitting kit out of the UK to suit the Anglia, it came with an adaptor plate that bolts to the front of the type 9 box and a drilling jig to redrill the Anglia bellhousing and some measurements for modifying the thrust tower. Here is the adaptor plate fitted and thrust tower which I got modified at work (it needed the o.d. turned down and to be shortened a bit). Also while I was buying parts from the UK I got a new gearbox crossmember, this one has the bonus of already having an offset in it which means once the rotary goes in I won’t have to cut the floor and add new mount holes. I am still waiting on a thrust bearing spacer (also out of the UK) before I can fit the gearbox and that will be the last thing to do before the car goes for cert. There are some other things I have done as well, I added a bunch of gauges and the seats, mounted with bits of bent up flat bar. That's about it at the moment, as I said the plan is still to get the rotary in there, but first things first I want it back on the road. More pics to come soon.....

no more bang bang clan clan from the ol driveshaft yay

hey guys , this is happening this weekend would be good to see ya'all! i expect to see you brocklee steven dave and retep! fags...

Because we are all half job Harrys.

And a locked diff.

So I just got photoshop and figured Id have a play tonight seeing as currently the lights in the garage dont work and came up with this. Filled in the side windows, and bought it down abit. I have acquired springs and blocks for this, that will be fitted in the next few weeks. Photoshops so much easier than real life

yup, driveway is a bit gnarley, will take me a few goes to get the system down /burnouts no real idea when move in date is, probably when i can shit, shower and boil the jug

Dicsuss ----> //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44998-wylde Edited on 9/4/2021 Due to certain Image hosting sites being dicks and losing half my photos I'll be re-writing this thread and cleaning it up a bit and updating it as to where I am now with the car stay tuned!

Well i have been wanting to build one of these wonderful machines for a few years now, i have just finished my engineering project at school (steam engine and boiler) and i needed something to fill in the rest of the year and this seemed like a good idea! About a month ago i got in touch with the guy in Oamaru who builds them down there and he kindly sent me his plans to use. Since then i have made a few parts for it but on friday he was up in Auckland and brought me the saddle, fork tubes and cranks with peddles so now i have enough pictures to start a build thread. Check out the Oamaru Ordinary Cycle club on facebook if you want to have a look at pictures to do with Penny Farthings. Each year the club does a four day long ride around the back roads of the south island on penny farthings , i will of missed out for this year as it is in november but hopefully it will be on for next year. Anyway here are some pictures This is the pile of goodies I got, leather saddle handmade by the local Oamaru saddler, seat spring, and the 1850s replica peddles and cranks, notice the 3 speed gears! Here are two of the parts i have made so far, they are welded up into the bottom of the fork tubes which are round tubes that have been squashed flat and the front axle bearing carriers are bolted to them. They took awhile to make because i could only take light cuts with the worlds bluntest endmill (high school abuse hahaha) I am planning to make the front hub at school and them go down to Oamaru to make the rim,spokes and assemble the front wheel and also bring back a backbone. This is exactly what i am building, taken off the oamaru ordinary cycle club website

LInk to discussion thread: http://oldschool.co....ms-84-vk-mayte/ This is my 1984 VK Commodore, Meet Lana, Shes a four cylinder Commodore. and ill run you through what ive done to her so far I purchased her stock standard on the original 13inch steel wheels! but pretty much the day i got her home i threw on a set of 13x7 Cheviot Hotwires with 205/60 and 215/60R13 tyres My dad and i are members of Manukau Rod and Custom club and not long after i bought her they had a gymkhana coming up at 'Full Throttle' and i wanted to have a go but i though id simply fix the oil leaks first.... And we all know that where that leads... i decided itd be easier to work on out of the car... So oily.. i installed a new hanger bearing on the driveshaft as the old one was perished and got a new clutch dissassembled the motor for new gaskets through out and just a general tidyup and the gearbox... which went from this... to this... then i decided the motor looked too good to go back in the dirty bay and thats when i missed the gymkhana... :] to cut a long story short this was the result... so i drove her around for a while until she got fed up and wanted some attention with so she ate a distrubutior drive gear. so i replaced that Then her hydraulic tappets werent holding pressure. So i replaced those And went to a Gymkhaha! AAAANNNNDDDDD broke a gearbox the next day on the way to work So i replaced that. and then scored some EH Holden hubcaps from a swapmeet and a sunvisor Greg Murphy came into my work so i got a photo with him and Lana And he autographed her dash I made a front lip and added an external cooler... BOSOZUKU LIFE decided the cooler was tacky and that RAKE was way cooler... then went on a road trip on the standard wheels with my girlfriend got these from a swapmeet. ( I see a trend here?) and got these made

Hey all, Ok we have been busy on the old girl lately - here is what has been done....... Filler prime coat 1: Inside and outside of floor is done, including new sound deadening: I stripped the manifolds off, added an O2 sensor fitting to the headers and wrpped them in black heat wrap. There were some dodgie threads in the head but managed to overcome that by fitting studs to the head rather than using the factory bolts: I have been looking for an oil pressure gauge sender unit but couldn't find any in NZ (other than being quoted $475 + GST ex Japan from nissan.....fuck that shit! So i went hunting on zstore.com and found a new one and 2 new sunvisor clips for $130NZD delivered - chur: I decided to investigate an oil leak from the speedo drive and found that the internal lip seal that seals on the internal shaft was screwed so i striped it cleaned everything and replaced the seals: As for the body - at present the rear guards roof and doors are ready for the final hit of filler primer, next on the agenda is finish blocking the hatch, front guards, bonnet and valance. Not sure when this will be painted now as it seems to take 4 times longer than i anticipate to get anything done so ill stop chucking timeframes out there - it will farkin happen when it does Cheers

4 days from the Netherlands to Auckland. 3 days from one side of Auckland to the other, I guess traffic was bad? ha. BUT OH MY LOOK AT THE COLOUR The marks on the top of the tank are tape that's been on there for a good 30 years. Tried de-solv-it to no avail, any suggestions? Don't want to risk ruining the paint.

This has now become a rebuild thread BUGGER SHIT DAMN! I went and picked up the DeVille from the exhaust shop yesterday it sounded so good with a new pipe and muffler cruising home ( i live 10 mins out of Oamaru) 2 kms off home the faint tick that the 308 has disappeared. I was like YES SWEET no more ticking the lifter has freed itself up 10 seconds louder it came back louder with a vengeance TICK TICK TICK limped it home parked it and today i spent my time taking off all the intake hoping it had a shat a lifter nope its rounded off the intake lobe on pot 6 Bugger there goes my plans for the next week or so. time replace and maybe with something a wee bit warmer throw me some ideas guys as the stock 160hp is a bit boring anywho cos pictureless updates suck heres where i'm at with today

Would approve of that

The problem you have Ned is that the pedal ratio is set up for having a booster, so when you disconnect it the ratio is all wrong and you have to be a beast. But otherwise no, disconnecting a booster doesn't make pushing the pedal harder.

I should be there in the celeste first meet with the car

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/user/7719-poo/

There's always next month. We need more people to turn up regularly.

That's me. That'd be sweet for a future meet. As this is the first and we are testing the waters it will be in a regular cinema, be one movie and be on a week night. The movie will be decided upon with a poll thread. Anyway awesome other ideas I'll keep in mind for next time. I've got enough info to move ahead with planning so keep an eye out over the next week for new thread. Will be happening in the next month hopefully.

Has anyone seen Two Hands? It's lol. Has a sweet XA(/maybe XB/XC) hardtop and other assorted Aussie lols. They rob a bank with a VR Commodore.

Soooo I got some T1Rs fitted yesterday, now running 205/50/15 all round instead of 195/50/15. Some may dissaprove of a 205 on a 7" rim but such is life haha. Car feels so much different! Previously had Bridgestone RE001s on front and Direzzas on the back. It has soooo much more grip now! Even without traction brackets I can hoof through 1st and 2nd without wheelspin which is great. One unexpected thing though is that turning has become a bit more sluggish and it understeers a lot more. The front/rear balance has previously been pretty good (if not on the oversteery side) with less grip. Which is why I've never fitted up the rear swaybar. But now that grip levels have increased it might be time to look into fitting it to get the balance right again. So I'll get that underway and increase front camber in 1 or 1/2 degree increments till turns nicely again. Might dump some friction modifier oil in the diff as well. Either way I'm pretty stoked to have some decent grip! Cant wait to drive it again after work today.

This was one of the biggest highlights of the Hanmer weekend for me. Such an awesome thing to do, made me feel honoured to be in the presence of such good people. Sweet bike for a GC with a sweet attitude. You QCR boys don't do things by halves.

Soooooo these arrived today! Going to paint them and polish them up. Not sure what colour. Maybe red? But will clash with my blue car I feel? Any who I love them. They are however all welded together. Is that much of a bitch to get undone? Flip the centres? I dunno

fuck yeah il take that... noone else had a tandy and trailor was headed for the scrap man anyways... wasnt too bad for the little 1.5 donk

This is basically what I read this thread as Drive with your booster disconnected currently, and that's exactly what it will be like using your current MC without a booster. You'll probably find the pedal is way too hard. The only way to improve this is to change the ratio of fluid pushed by the MC per CM of pedal travel. (Or fit a booster haha) So you could: -fit a smaller MC (But it might reach the floor before you acheive full/desired level of braking) -Change the leverage point where the MC attaches to the pedal (Same problem as above) -Make the pedal travel longer for same amount of MC piston movement (Although you can only increase so much until impractical) Basically it seems like a big kick in the balls for not much gained, and will take some experimenting to find out what works well for you. I'd just leave it as is then go do some hoonage

not much left that wasn't salvageable... will be getting back into the shell now for some finesse touch ups with the mig... Has anyone got any 1800 slant parts; need bottom pulley and fan/waterpump pulley (or knows if the 2.3 is the same).... keen as for one of those... cheers

Fuck I'm braindead this morning.. just got busted by the boss walking to the shops to get a red bull..

Better do a pic dump ... Im busting Jag was in springs junction

Just some random pics: and a couple from the drive home:

#LikeaBoss Raised heaps of money for Breast Cancer Research at the wife's netball club on Saturday and went for a cruise through the local arts markets today. So many people stopped us for photos or to ask where I got it, many jealous dads

Getting there. Seat base built (just going to trim temporarily at this stage), floor cut, folded and fitted (big thank you again to De Lena Metals) and even buffed the body as it's maiden voyage is this weekend for my wife's Netball Club breast cancer fundraiser. To do list: Mount lake pipes Find better front wheels Replace galv pipe handle with something nicer Get seat properly trimmed Panel & Paint

You guys are not even close, i think you will find the answer is to put a pinto in it. Thanks

Tunnel's all done. got the sedan back home now to get the drive shaft made up then can go back for exhaust.

Hey, I assembled the engine crane. I didn't even look at the instructions until I ran out of bolts and had some doohickeys left over.

This car is going in quite a different direction from my Black Starion, so I figured I'd make it it's own build-thread. This has to be oh-so-borderline of what is 'old-school'.... But I reckon it still qualifies . This car had been for sale up in Auckland for quite a while. I'd umm'd and ahhh'd about it for ages. I finally snapped, bit the bullet, and had it shipped down. The main deciding factor was the body and paint-work. I'm pretty confident with most things automotive related, except paint and bodywork, its not my bag.... There is no way, for what I paid for this car, and to get it here, I could get my Black one looking anywhere near as nice. It needs a bunch of work, but the bones look pretty good. I need to check over every nut and bolt, replace the suspension, change all the fluids, un-sieze the brakes, and all the usual stuff that comes with getting a car running after it's been sitting for a prolonged period. While the car did come with the factory ECU, loom and injection setup, they're little better than a blow-through carby setup, and I wasn't keen to muck around getting it going. I'm updating the injection setup to a multi-point system, sort of on-the-cheap. I'm using an EVO V ecu, sensors and throttlebody, but modifying a SOHC optical distributor to output the correct triggering pattern. Should all work pretty well I'm hoping. These ECU's are re-tunable in situation via the diagnostics port, which is nice. They're not real-time tunable, which is a downside, but there is excellent logging support for them to help the process along. Intake manifold selection is a little annoying. There are two available factory options that are usable, both have theirs advantages and downsides however. 2.4L injected L300 vans had an MPI manifold for a RWD setup, which means all the water plumbing is in the right place for a Starion, but the bolt pattern of the throttlebody doesnt match up to the evo unit I need to use (to get all the idle control stuff). The other option is a converted SOHC Galant intake manifold. This entails moving the throttlebody flange to the other end of the plenum... But once you've done this, you still need to correct the water flow. In a RWD application, you want the thermostat housing connected to the water passage at the front of the head, the Galant manifold has it at the other end, can lead to hot spots. I decided to make a manifold from scratch, it overcomes all these problems, plus it should be a bit of fun, something I haven't tried before . Anyway, here are a couple of pics. I borrow DJZ's wheels for a try: It really is pretty damn tidy, should be an awesome car once it's back together and up and running. I've started making the manifold, I bought some pre-formed runners on trademe, and had a flange laser-cut. They kind of fucked up the flange, but I'll make it work. As the ports are grouped in pairs, the runners needed a little clearancing to fit them together. The length of them is determined by the required plenum space, and being able to install and remove the distributor. I machined the ends down to fit inside the flange, this is part of the plan to rectify the fuckup autobend made. They cut the ports way too big, but the ID of the runners is pretty much perfect, so that should sort that! I reckon it's looking pretty damn awesome .

Driving DJZ's quite insane 280zx around, and being part of the Japanese Nostalgic Car cruise the other day made me realise I need something old, japanese, and RWD in my life. Starions were the first car I ever saw and though, 'Shit, I WANT one'... And at 18 I bought my first car, a Starion, a red and primer monstrosity that I ended up crashing into a curb and selling to pay various debts. I've had two others since then, a silver one that both myself and my father drove for 3 years with it never missing a beat, and a white one which was fairly quick, but had a bit of a shitter body. Skip forward many years and its time to own another, but now that I'm not quite so young and stupid, own it right. Spent all week chasing down starions for sale, checking out what was available. This black one held the best hope for me, as I wanted something that was fairly original and un-played with. The pictures on TradeMe made it look pretty weird. At the last minute a guys project starion came up for sale again on trademe in auckland, and it is an absolutely mint body, with all the good running gear, but no motor or loom... This put me on the fence about which way to go... However, when i started really poking around this black starion, it turned out to be much more honest and tidy than I had thought it was going to be... After some negotiation, and me paying a bit too much in all honesty, the deal was done, and it was towed home. Wait, TOWED? Yeah. Cant drive it at the moment. The engine goes (and actually sounds really smooth and nice), but the clutch master was buggered. Its 12:14am now, so a little late to change it, but I have a new one sitting there ready to be installed first thing tomorrow morning. So it begins. The best news? If you spin one rear wheel, the other spins the same way

A few more pics, Because the engine bay is so short and because of where I mounted the motor the oil filter hit the firewall so I had this made to relocate it I also needed a remote reservoir for my clutch master cylinder so made up a mount to suit a Wilwood reservoir and here is a shot of how it sits, the master cylinder is quite close to the inlet manifold but once again clear is clear Engine bay as it sits now So I finally have the engine bay plumbed, all of the brake lines, fuel lines, oil lines etc have been finished. No wait I tell a lie I still have to mount the coils, still its getting closer......

Been really slack at taking pictures of what I have been doing but heres a couple of small things Needed to convert the accelerator to a cable type as the anglia one is a bar that attached directly to the carb so after a bit of measuring etc I made this up, added some holes too it to try and make it look a bit cooler then the lump of flat bar that it is. Here it is sitting under the dash Then got part of a motorcycle clutch cable (I think) to bring the cable out The other small job I did was to the gearbox crossmember, as it happened the Anglia gearbox mount almost bolted straight up to the rx7 gearbox, I only had to slot the hole by about 1mm so I used the Anglia crossmember and managed to pick up on 2 of the original mounting holes as well. the front holes of the crossmember are attached to the rear holes in the body. I needed to add a couple of mounts so I cut some holes in the floor and added these bits inside the chassis rails. shown in place Then welded some patches in the floor and its all good