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getting there. should be able to turn the key and see if it will go tonight. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr

had a look at a commode today, that "was a v6 originally and its had a v8 swapped into it" hmm. can see where the ss badges were on the boot and doors those rivets on the chassis tags dont look original, and theres little scratches on the one that lives under the windscreen its a 2002 and its only done 12,000km the details and stuff on the front page of the owners manual has been ripped out oh, and someones attacked the engine number with a chisel and if you can get the cops to say thats all ok, then it needs driveshaft loops, lol

it goes.

Wow, can’t believe that it has been almost 2 years since I last updated this. Quite a lot has happened but unfortunately not much of it has to do with the car (well not this one anyway). So at the beginning of last year an opportunity to move to Nelson came up so we packed everything up and headed North, the car ended up in storage for a while so I used that as an excuse to get another Anglia. I figured I would post it in here as it is now sporting most of the bits off my other one and will probably end up with the motor in it as well eventually. Here are photos of when I got it. It has a 1600 escort motor in it that has been bored out and has 1300 pistons and a 234 cam in it, the rest of it is pretty much standard Anglia. So I cruised around in this for a while until the wof ran out and seeing as the motor wasn’t certified I figured that I would swap the suspension and brakes out of my other car and get this one certified. As things tend to go with my projects I also thought that it was a good opportunity to change a couple of things while I was at it. First up was the suspension, because the lower arms that I had made weren’t going to be able to be certified I decided to go with some new Mk2 Cortina ones, fitting Cortina struts to an Anglia results in a heap of positive camber which isn’t too cool but with some adjustments to the top hats it looks like I can get it back to where it should be. At the back I added some clearance around the rear leaf spring attachment point so that I could run a flipped top leaf, I had done this in my other car but don’t think I had any pictures of it. I also changed the shock absorbers to the stud type end and reinforced the wheel tub where the stud ran through, probably should have done this on the other car as it was a heap less work. Anyway with 1” lowering blocks in and my wheels on it ends up looking like this. I am pretty happy with this, it has a bit of negative rake with the back sitting lower than the front but I kind of like it that way, looks broken which is cool. I might look at some shorter springs for the front eventually but it is good as for now. Then I looked at the brakes, the front ones were ok (solid rotors and escort callipers) but I had intended to go for vented ones eventually anyway so I got some Capri ones and a spacer kit from Palmside to suit the M16 callipers and rebuilt them while I was at it. This is probably way more brakes than I need but eventually these will be stopping the rotary so I can justify the cost to myself. The back brakes stayed the same but while the diff was out I swapped the head from the 4.11 ratio Anglia one to a 3.9 ratio one that the new car came with. I would like to put a lsd in it but it is just a bit too expensive for me at the moment. So at this point I hit a couple of snags with the brakes, some of the brake lines that I had made up for the rotary unfortunately didn’t suit the 1600 as the exhaust is in a different place and they interfered, so after thinking about it for a while I decided to use this Wilwood pedal box that I bought ages ago for the other car but didn’t end up using. This may seem like a bit of an excessive way of dealing with a brake line interference and it probably is but what can I say, it makes more sense than having the pedal box sitting on the shelf. Anyway I made this mounting frame up which bolts through the master cylinder holes on the firewall and clamps to the steering column, here it is mounted up in my old car, which is really useful for this sort of thing at the moment, I will switch it out in the new car as soon as I figure out how I am going to deal with the accelerator pedal. I might try and tie it in with some of the other mount points as well, I’m not sure if it is ok to clamp to the steering column as it may not be considered structural but I haven’t found anything yet that says that I can’t do it. The only issue with this is that things get a little tight under the dash between where the reservoirs feed into the cylinders and a brace that comes out to support the dash but I think I can get around this with some banjo fittings, failing that I will just add some clearance to the brace. So I was also thinking that it may be a while before I get the rotary mounted and I was offered a 5 speed Type 9 gearbox from a guy in the Nelson Anglia club so this is the next mission, I have brought a fitting kit out of the UK to suit the Anglia, it came with an adaptor plate that bolts to the front of the type 9 box and a drilling jig to redrill the Anglia bellhousing and some measurements for modifying the thrust tower. Here is the adaptor plate fitted and thrust tower which I got modified at work (it needed the o.d. turned down and to be shortened a bit). Also while I was buying parts from the UK I got a new gearbox crossmember, this one has the bonus of already having an offset in it which means once the rotary goes in I won’t have to cut the floor and add new mount holes. I am still waiting on a thrust bearing spacer (also out of the UK) before I can fit the gearbox and that will be the last thing to do before the car goes for cert. There are some other things I have done as well, I added a bunch of gauges and the seats, mounted with bits of bent up flat bar. That's about it at the moment, as I said the plan is still to get the rotary in there, but first things first I want it back on the road. More pics to come soon.....

Well these wheels are meant for my Panel Van, but I just got tires mounted on them today and couldn't help but try them on this. HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES! HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES! HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES! HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES!HUNDRED SPOKES! It definitely looks way better on smaller tyres in my opinion. but they are for the van.... hurl abuse at me here ---> //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/36140-shakotoms-84-vk-mayte/page-4

Not the best angle, but didn't want to get shot really

Dicsuss ----> //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44998-wylde Edited on 9/4/2021 Due to certain Image hosting sites being dicks and losing half my photos I'll be re-writing this thread and cleaning it up a bit and updating it as to where I am now with the car stay tuned!

So I just got photoshop and figured Id have a play tonight seeing as currently the lights in the garage dont work and came up with this. Filled in the side windows, and bought it down abit. I have acquired springs and blocks for this, that will be fitted in the next few weeks. Photoshops so much easier than real life

To all engineers; sorry for the over simplification The way the tachos work that are driven from the negative of the coil is as follows; the coil connects to the 12V supply, and to the points in your dizzy. When the points close, it connects the neg of the coil to ground which gets current flowing. When the points open again a split second later, the coil will do its thing where it tries to keep the same power flowing through it, and to do that it manages to create a massive high voltage as the current backs off (google "how inductors work" if you wanna know how/why, but for now just accept that it does) When the points open, the coil negative is essentially not connected to anything, so its free to generate whatever voltage it likes. so with the voltage of the primary coil rising, it also induces a current flow in the secondary winding in the coil, which gets even higher voltage, so high that it can bridge the spark gap of the spark plug. back to the coil so the voltage rises on the primary winding, and the tacho input uses that high voltage to trigger the tacho. If you just connect a 5V square wave into the input (like from an ECU) then it will just ignore that as its too low for the tacho to consider a valid trigger. To create a valid trigger, we need a higher voltage, so basically what we are going to do, is put a little tiny coil in the car that will also generate a high voltage to trigger the tacho. A relay has a coil inside it. It works by energising the coil, which creates a magnet and pulls the switch inside (as a simple way of explaining it) So to get a relay coil to generate a high voltage, we need to energise it. An output from an ECU will NOT be able to drive a relay directly, as a small 12V relay will draw ~200mA and the pin from the ECU is probably only good for 5-20mA or so, plus we need to recreate the points opening as we need the coil to be not connected to anything after energising it so it will generate a high voltage. To do this, we need something called an open drain driver, meaning it is either open (not connected) or it 'drains' current (making a connection between a device and a ground) A transistor is basically an amplifier. you put some current into the input, and it will drive the output with 100x as much current AND it can be turned off, and when its off, it is completely open, like the points in a dizzy! so not only can we use it to make the open drain driver, but it also amplifies and drives the coil with lots of current even though we only draw a little bit from the ECU. So we now have a coil and a transistor and are nearly done! a transistor is a funny beast, and the input of it wont actually go above 0.6V. This means that we cant just connect a 12V or 5V signal directly to the input because you cant connect 12V to 0.6V. That would be like connecting your battery terminals together, and you would let the magic smoke out. to connect the 5V or 12V signal to the transistor input, you need to use a resistor. A resistor is happy for one side to be 12V and the other side to be 0.6V. When that happens, current flows through the resistor. The more current, or the higher the voltage, the hotter it gets. To make sure thats all ok, you get to use Ohms Law. V = I x R and P = V x I are the two you want to remember. Voltage (V) = Current (I) x Resistance ® and Power (P) = Voltage (V) x Current (I) remember how the coil was going to draw 200mA and the transistor will amplify the input current by 100x? those were example values. The actual value could be different, especially for the coil of the relay, but when you go to jaycar, the relay will say if its 200mA or 400mA or whatever, so just re-do the calcs. The transistor will normally be 100-300x amplification, so just stick to the 'normal' ones like a BC337 or 2n2222 or something. If you're not sure if what you have is legit, just google it and see what the datasheet says for DC Current Gain or Hfe. so to drive the transistor, we need to drive it with 200mA (0.2A) / 100x amplifcation = 2mA (0.002A) and the ECU pin would be good for 5-20mA, so 2 is def under that. To get 2mA of current to flow, we need to flow 2mA of current through the resistor. So using ohms law to figure out the value resistor, we get the voltage across the resistor, which we know as its 12V-0.6V=11.4V or 5V-0.6V=4.4V and we know the current (0.002A). so if V=IxR, then R=V/I. Plugging in the stuff we know, 11.4/0.002=5700 and 4.4/0.002=2200 so the resistors we need are 2200Ohm for 5V and 5700Ohm for 12V They dont actually make a 5700, but they do make a 2200. If you get a value thats not quite right, go for one thats lower by up to 1/2. Halving the resistor value, will double the current you draw from the ECU and will double the heat the resistor generates though, but 4mA is still safe. So a good value for 12V would be 5600, or even 4700. For 5V 2200 is pretty good, but you could go to 1800 or 1500 if you want. Resistors that size are defined as K though, so 1K5 for a 1500, or 2K2 for a 2200, so get a 1K8 for 5V and a 4K7 for 12V Now to see what physical size you need to get. Use the chosen resistor value to work out what the new current will be. 4.4V/1K8=2.4mA and 11.4V/4K7=2.4mA as well (accident, i promise). With those new values, we can use P=VxI to get power dissipation. 4.4V*0.0024A=0.010Watts and 11.4*0.0024A=0.027W Most normal through hole resistors you're all used to are 1/4W, so all those values are WELL below that, so a 1/4W resistor is fine. If your values dont work out, you will have to go for a physically bigger resistor that can handle more heat before it blows up. So this is the way you wanna hook it all up, and use the math above to calculate the correct values of resistor etc so have fun

Has anyone seen Two Hands? It's lol. Has a sweet XA(/maybe XB/XC) hardtop and other assorted Aussie lols. They rob a bank with a VR Commodore.

now we can hire batches a block back from the sea front and still go fishing from the deck

not very haha, its 3kish to hire out manfeild. We would be better to invade a trackday.

Tyre swan style?

#LikeaBoss Raised heaps of money for Breast Cancer Research at the wife's netball club on Saturday and went for a cruise through the local arts markets today. So many people stopped us for photos or to ask where I got it, many jealous dads

For those of you that Know I have been on the look for a new work vehicle for a while now. The poor old Alfa must be getting near the end of its life with 255,000 kms on it . So the challenge was on to find a Vehicle that was up to the job hopefully Oldschool was first on the list. Next it needed be able to move stuff (cakes) with care and carry half a ton if needed . So I found this has a warrent , rego , rust and a rattly motor but it goes and road legal starts like dream from cold and the 1.3 power plant what more could you want . Had to have at least one photo of this great car has changed the way I look at an Alfa's with this many Km how can you fault them??????????????? More on the new Work Van I have these wheels sitting around and think they will suit this well While I had the wheel off I noticed 9 inch drums which is great but the plan is to keep it very standard with a little low and some wheels. Inside the back is in such good condition looks like it's hardly carried anything and rides that high as well. The guy I bought it off swore black and blue that it had 87,000 km. I'm not sold but there are some very good condition parts inside it. The urgent list has a new window rubber new floor pan fix the messy back door repair. And for looks wheels lowered Discussion Thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44953-shaneos-79-escort-work-van/

Ok Mr Wee's, my mates had half a dozen or more movies night at his place and its been awesome. nights with a full moon suck though. So if your Wee's, who is pooman?

Your deVille looks mint, I was going to buy one once, the guy bought it over and parked it in my drive, we couldn't make it go for love nore money, it stayed there over night and then when he picked it up he robed my house

The van is doing the work already everyone that has seen it is loving it.

Ned, dude, that was awesome. Though for a how to I'm sure we could cut that down somewhat again If you need any help 77 let us know, or better yet do a "so Bangbug and Ned said this works...." thread and we'll help you out (Ned, I've volunteered you).

Heh. Critter. This does kind of make you sound like lice though...

what about DOOD WHERES MY CAR

Thought of this but I will still have the lovely rubbers to look at . And I have a pretty clear vision of how I want it to look like but weather it turns out like I want will be another story .

the only option was the 308 but the earlier ones have the TH350 auto

I'm in, gives me plenty of time to get the fire extinguisher mounted.

Good write up dude! I do this on just about every Link I wire up (quite a few)

who's the head critter behind this carry on? a mate of mine has a field for a drive in. unfortunately he recently pulled down the screen as it was made from untreated timber and was rotten. I shall put you in contact with him if you wish...

Nit-picking, but I think you mean surface mount here. Thin-film specifies the internal construction of the resistor and has nothing to do with the packaging type.

Hi! I'm just calling in to high five you. These rule.

/Fast company

Hell yeah Christine is a sweet movie. But ignore me cos I'm not going.

if the driveshaft is standard and not modified, and a 2 or 1j makes less powers than the original engine, then no

preserve it mainly and other small things

Nothing to amazing going on Final assembly Battery cage made Bare metal Rust treated and etch Seam sealer Plate bracket

It's a fucken sweet gravel road, NZ's longest, you can go in just north of seddon, do the molesworth leg then do the Wairau/Hamner hyrdo rd and come out near lake Rotoiti, nearly 250kms of Gravel.. need a permit for both legs tho..

Been driving this every day since getting it. Great little van. It's booked in for next week to get a new floor pan put in and few little panel jobs needs to be water tight being a Daily. This is how it sits at the moment Got these from a donor car once they are all cleaned up I will fit them I keep adding ideas to the plan managed to get over 200 km so far out of a tank and just over 1/4 tank used It's all to do with the super sized carb on the power plant

I must say great to see such Large car representation from all makes - pics are awesome guys.

My first breakfast in the south. Chicken & Biscuits w/ Grits 'MURKA!

just to put some numbers on that, to go legit you're looking at 100-300 a movie (depending on what movie it is etc) and often if you email the studio directly and tell them you're getting together with a bunch of mates for a make shift drive in, they are happy to flag the fees

Theres only 1 that exists and thats in wellington (permanently), so not keen to go there, and the only other drive in is the one in Tauranga once a year, which is cool, but only once a year. You can get royalty free movies, or there are ways you pay the man some money and watch movies legitimately as well

drive in would be ace you can hire giant screens etc, but they cost $4500 which is a bit much for the 50 people that will turn up Theres a whole "Guerrilla Drive-in" thing called MobMov, where dudes just put a DVD player and a projector in their car with some FM transmitters and meet up at random places and play movies on the side of a building etc, which is pretty bad ass http://mobmov.org/manifesto/ might even be something that OS wants to invest in and send it around the country throughout the year to different cities and events for regular drive-ins? or maybe pass the hat around auckland members to raise a little money to buy one for 'regular' drive in events? I've looked into it before, and happy to nut out some pricing and what gear to use etc if people were keen?

My mate factored a projector/home theatre room into his house renovation plan, and recently started on the fitout. It'll only cater for a max of about 10 people though.

Done, I feel ashamed to say i have seen very few of the list But im going to work on it and am down for what ever movie is chosen because movies are awesome.

I vote American Graffiti. Ever since watching that movie as a kid I have wanted a puke yellow deuce coupe. And an Edsel. And a 55 Chevy. And a 56 T-bird. And a Citroen thing. And a RX-3 So yeah.

gone in 60 seconds??

what about fast and furious and then after we can all go put RIP paul walker stickaz on our carz

Your magnet annoys me terribly. Please post it to me so I can spend half the day trying to pluck every last bit of grinding dust off it, only to drop if on the driveway and cover it in iron sand. Sweet looking project though!

hi jesus these doggs are ripping through it, now i'm definitely holding things up. that guy!

A few more pics, Because the engine bay is so short and because of where I mounted the motor the oil filter hit the firewall so I had this made to relocate it I also needed a remote reservoir for my clutch master cylinder so made up a mount to suit a Wilwood reservoir and here is a shot of how it sits, the master cylinder is quite close to the inlet manifold but once again clear is clear Engine bay as it sits now So I finally have the engine bay plumbed, all of the brake lines, fuel lines, oil lines etc have been finished. No wait I tell a lie I still have to mount the coils, still its getting closer......