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  1. 24 likes
    Chassis end panhard mount. Yep the drag link goes through the middle of the bracket Ive given up on the whole offroad thing. going stance spec still got about 3" of droop and 2" up to go. need a forklift. likely have to go softer on the front springs, will see what happens once all the junk on the tray goes back in the engine bay
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    So 2 weeks before moving to the US this happens! Guy in OZ is rebuilding a T57 and needed a new block. So got to and cast one up! Didnt go 100% but still really well. On a plane to LA in 3days!
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    Moral of the story is don't leave your freshly paneled and painted old car on the lawn for a decade.
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    Spent some time on the weekend with the help of @kempy with good results. Some of the stuff I remember: Changed one-way valves on injector pump, cleaned points, bled injectors, replaced injector, adjusted fuel regulator to 110psi pressure, cleared return line, adjusted overfuel lever, replaced 6 (yes 6) totally dead spark plugs, re-timed and marked ignition, swapped distributors, lost all the hair on my arms and temporary hearing whilst fireball from backfire on intake gave @Geophy and @Threeonthetree a good laugh (possibly due to me holding a can of engine start that was also on fire) and then started car. Next steps - sounds like slight miss on one cylinder but no cooling system plumbed in, so, reinstall radiator, tweak, and do skids / road test / fix all the other stuff I find broke. Finally making progress = win.
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    A little progress... Met with @dave a while back and bought 2 more 13x7 Cragar's from him. Thanks man. Gave them a good clean, the rims came up pretty good but the centres are pretty corroded. The centres were painted silver, who ever painted them sanded the chrome so they're pretty dull. Overall condition isn't to bad. Still on the lookout for a cleaner pair... Stoked I have a set now though! Did a quick test fit. I was a little worried they'd be too wide and poke out but turns out they're sweet. Still need to get the proper tyres I want to run but gives you an idea... Discuss here, Cheers!
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    Last repair to do on the passenger side was the rear section, behind the wheels. The bog here was over 15mm thick in places. Fucken rough. As it goes with chasing rust, this ^^ soon turned into this. The outer and inner skins were rooted where the dirt and shit had been sitting for years. New inner skin was sused. Then the outer was made, including around the back behind the bumper. And before it was hit with the rattle can. Short story, the passenger floor annoyed me so I replace the entire lower half of the van. Tomorrow I'll put it back together and drive it for a week before I replace the drivers rear wheel arch section. When is enough, enough?
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    The 130 alloys are 14"x6" and with 205/60 tyres the rears rub on the inside of the outer guard, and are quite low geared compared to the factory 175/80 or 85 series tyres. I do like the look of them tho! So had a set of 14"x4.5" factory steelies blasted by @Mr Vapour and they turned out pretty good. as collected from Burger Fule meet, good ol Mr V rattle can primed to stop flashing i ran a strip disc over the tyre sealing area and then primered them And then top coated. I used the light grey that i did the floor and engine bay with with a bit more roof white in it (not quite enough grey left!) I didnt sand them at all, but it turned out ok and they have had way more attention than they deserve already. I have some 185R14C tyres that ive been saving for this since getting them from @kiwi808 when he moved down sarf that have a thin whitewall on them to install when the paint is dry, as well as trim rings and dog dishes. Presidentiale! Should mean i can drop the front a bit to even out the nose high stance and still steer, as presently the front is wound up as high as it goes.
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    Well now it looks good in and out its time to make it move faster! (Yes i still haven't cut and buffed it because I feel I can put it off for a lot longer X-D) As part payment for hacking the rust out of Bart's Val, he's given me this A15. I got the headers a while back in preparation. I tore it to bits today and she is a pearler! Still standard everywhere and bores are sweeter than a hot damn. Im making moves to grind a wee cam to help it along and will run GT 323 twin carbs on a modified manifold. They are a veeery similar design to standard Datsun but likely updated a bit, mine have airbox and linkages and all that shit to make it easier. (sitting on a spare A12) It's a bit like the twin K-series Toyota carb conversion which used to be the go-to mod when they were more common.
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    I have been doing a little on this when I can & today since I have finished refitting the rare option (for NZ new) heater I was able to fill the car with coolant & run it until warm I can report no leaks from heater & thurmostat still works. Water stains shown are from driving around with wiper spindles removed many years ago & the new goal is to get this back on the road before I restore interior etc. So while outside I gave it its first car wash in over a decade then drove for a few 100m's round the carparks
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    There were a couple of mx5s at zebra so I grabbed the cv bolts and the diff input bolts so hopefully they are similar enough to work on the fc so its less sketchy. I also have sorted a load of wheel nuts so there will be more than three holding the wheels on. Its a bit early but does anyone have a set of r32 gtst wheels for cheap? I've seen a couple on those wheels and like the look if them. This one on tardme looks pretty sweet imo
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    I have been getting down and dirty getting my gearbox sorted lately. My back hasn't been happy but I don't care car comes first. Well me and the old man got the adapter finished and have been doing mock fit up for it. I new I might have to do some cutting but not much in the end but what I didn't expect was the cost. $640 for custom driveshaft. Was looking at gearbox insides and a circling had pop loose and bopped all over the gearbox but looks ok. Took to gearbox place and getting full treatment but that costs $500 so wallet looking sad. Here's a small visual display for you.....
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    Well, ive been trying to get this old nugget going again. I have been working on it off and on over summer, when it wasnt too hot and I could be bothered. Firstly, i put some decent wheels on it : SSR Longchamp XR4 15x7.5 -14 Rear. 15x7.0 +11 Front. Was a real hassle getting them polished and machined up locally but got there in the end. Fitted the biggest front mount intercooler that I could for the size available. 3 full days of cutting carefully, making mounts etc. and I probably had the fucking thing in and out 20 times. 300X600X76 Aeroflow core with 3 inch end tanks. It was cheap and should be ample for my needs. Sorted a turbo smart 38mm external wastegate, Started the wiring, pretty basic really. I bought a new N14 GTIR alloy radiator - fits this engine bay pretty well and am about to start mocking up the aluminuim intercooler pipes next. Also fitted a genuine Walbro 255L fuel pump, was a bit of pissing around but got it mounted eventually. No rust in the fuel tank, not a single spec! Pretty happy with that. The saga continues, should be running in a few weeks hopefully.
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    mounts all on the diff for good. cant paint over the chrome..
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    Got the fwd alternator bracket to work with the rwd water pump. this lifts the alternator up out of the way of top suspension link. and bit further away from mud and crap. just had to modify the top mount to bolt to top water outlet and waterpump. also make a new inlet for water pump fwd bracket already had some racing holes in it from when it was on the starlet? Started making some towers to go around the towers. getting the sheet to do what i wanted wasn't much fun,, but turned out alright after being thrown on the floor a few times not much clearance to turbo is main issue
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    So, as above I got some rattlecans made, and they were average, but I didn't realise how average, (and by average, I mean utterly shit) until I grabbed some balls, and blew a coat of paint over the guard using a paint gun, something I've only used for hi-fill primer so far. Farrrrk, I felt like a pro. Suddenly I realised how much better it could be, so I sanded it back, and sprayed it again, and sanded, and clear coated, and sanded, and sanded and clear coated, and cut it back, and realised it needed to be better, so sanded and clearcoated a few more times. It's still average, and would benefit from a proper cut and polish by someone who knows what they're doing, and I can see all the shit bogging I did, but for a shitty old coon ute, it'll definitely do. First blast from the gun: About 4 rounds of clear and wetsanding later A rough idea of how bad the fade is on the door vs the bonnet which was resprayed a couple of years back and looks quite good. I can see where the bog spots are sunken and shit. #fuckconcours to celebrate all this I fired the old thing up, chucked a beer crate in as a seat and drove it half out of the shed for the first time in over a year and washed off the dust and suddenly it seemed like progress was being made. Before with dust: After with no dust: Also good to check all the drains under the guards are working. Also before the excitement of paint, and in between coats, I finished a ratshit weldjob on the B pillar and bogged it and sanded, and bogged, and sanded that into a passable state. Still needs another bit welded in when I have some money for a gas bottle. All in all, possibly the best holiday I've had in years. And the next one will probably involve a crack at painting the rest of it.
  20. 6 likes
    New sill. I then had to tackle the top of the passengers guard. To keep the theme up is was rust covered over with bog. Cut all the shit out. Made up a new inner section before making up the outer skin. I tried to take my time shaping the metal to the correct specs. I was pretty stubborn about not wanting to put anymore bog into this, so I tried to make all the repairs as correct as I could.
  21. 6 likes
    man i'm poked. managed to get the passenger sill on with massive help from Stan, the guys a legend i cant thank him enough. i still need to tidy up the ends but the strength is there. they're not bad repo panels either. theres a 5mm difference in one of the lines which is huge, granted, but somehow it doesn't look too bad when fitted. shut lines like a mercedes! this weekend we'll be back into it. discussion
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    We'll dig as deep as need be. She's a dry carpet model. And despite being rusty now, ten years ago it was completely rust free. The cancer doesn't run that deep. I've met your mate. That business caters to cheque book builders. It's no more rusty than you'd expect for a car of this age that has spent 20 of the last 47 years out in the weather. ......
  23. 6 likes
    wow - October was my last post...... all my time has gone on my family and new business - and so has any money i've made from it too (who would have thought). I've painted up my front callipers and hubs and will put them back together soon - I've got to find things I can do with no spare $$ or major time. Bit of a plea for help here....... I'm in desperate need of an experienced friend!!!, a jack of all trades - a mentor to take me under his wing!! I look at my shell and all there is to do and maybe redo (and the fact I'm a total first timer and my experience is limited to, reading oldschool posts, internet research and yarns with people)....and I am feeling a bit overwhelmed, well a lot overwhelmed! I try to think I have a handle on the next step etc but man I could go on about all the questions and doubts I have about things..... My old man had a stroke a few years back and he's pretty closed off to getting involved because it makes him feel pretty shit that he can't do anything these days. Is there any folk out there in the Waikato that could lend a hand? even if it's a few yarns to help me get my head around it all and put a few doubts to ease?? I have beer in the fridge and an espresso machine.......whatever takes your fancy!!
  24. 6 likes
    I was waiting for the long weekend to cross some bigger jobs off the list and managed to! - Put good dash pad in - Cleaned and painted instrument cluster - Cleaned and rust killed floors and etch painted, sealed up screw holes and seams, rubber bungs in - Cleaned and painted glovebox hinge panel (left as much as I could of the factory sticker with key info and tyre pressure/fuel chart) - Made covers for the rear wheel arches, lower B pillars and exposed parts of the floor the carpet does not cover with some patterned plastic sheet - Painted dash top and the area under the rear screen which are visible. - New carpets - Vinyl died seats. Don't know how long it will last but we will see. The cans sprayed too narrow so I emptied them into spray gun and got a great even application. - Put stereo in properly - Epoxy glued splits in the centre console - Factory accelator pedal back on Still need to make a shifter boot and pick up another demister vent from a mate.
  25. 5 likes
    Suzuki Owners Group, Take One Tried to order everything I could think of at once, hopefully more than half of it works / fits. List for future reference / if anyone wants to do similar and for myself to order replacement parts. Por15 tank sealer NOS leg shield inddicator assemblies BIG BLOCK! GPX 140cc Motor MIKUNI - PZ30 30mm Carb CDI - 8 Pin Race Wiring Loom - 8 Pin x2 Vesrah brake shoes VB312 Clutch, Brake and Throttle cable Dual Layer Pod 44 x 102 15deg Angled Uni Filter Domino Tommaselli Throttle Petrol tubing neoprene 3/16"i.d. black (m) Fuel Filter x2 Brake & Clutch leavers 2008/09 Hayden Paddon poster "signed . . . oh what! x2 275-17 HF307 Trail tyres x2 Tubes & Rim Tapes for rusty rim jobs New side stand Carb Manifold Intake Rotator Adapter image hosting websitescertificity.com Frame water blasted and ready for re assembly ish. how to take a screenshot on a pccertificity.com The plan is to try and retain some patina with new running gear in places required. So far the frame is a fair bit more different than from the Honda CUB family so this might not be the simple bolt in job I expected, hence the grinder on standby. Getting the carb to fit will the least fun! Que Rotator Adapter If anyone speaks to the wife . . . all the above only cost a box of beer! LETS DO THIS
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    The little Fiat seemed to be running horrendously rich. There was fuel oozing out around the emulsion tube due to a bad seal. Also, it turns out the mixture screw was set 7 full turns out... 6 and a half turns in later and it's much better. I took it for a good fang up the road and the plugs are a much nicer colour. 3 days after this, a carb kit turned up. So easy to get at, I love it. Minutes later... Take one of these and call me in the morning.
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    Bit slow on updating but that doesn't mean I haven't been working. I made up and welded in another seat rail. I then folded up some sills out of lengths I had laying around, which happened to be thicker then the original steel. I also replaced the bottom of the guard, and made up the remaining floor panels. Photos or it didnt happen. Cut the drivers sill out. Replaced with a new sill. The remaining original sill was cut out after this. Back of the sill and guard before being primed etc. There was a crazy amount of dirt in behind the sill. Replaced the inner rusted strengthening piece. The passengers floor looking better.
  30. 5 likes
    Made a start on the passengers side door. When it sat on the car it looked lumpy and sticking out a mile but rest of the door sat nice. So pulled it off stripped it down and sanded bottom of door down. I would say I sanded 1.967km of filler out and uncovered a terrible patch job. Chopping old patch out starting a fresh here's a picture update.
  31. 5 likes
    I thought i was looking at my old VG when i first read this thread! I sold it to a guy down in gore before i moved to Melbourne in 2006 but you have had your one a lot longer obviously. Mine had a 360, it went pretty hard. Hopefully all that rust doesn't put you off too much, you should see the 68 impala im currently restoring...
  32. 5 likes
    Bike starts, runs, changes gear, and stops. Lights all seem to work, so I'm calling that 'about done' for now. Just need to get my license...
  33. 5 likes
    So I got a bit behind with the thread, oops. Just going to do a bit of a photodump catchup: New braided brake line. Serviced front caliper with new piston and a seal kit at the same time. New repro carb diaphragms. This has twin Keihin CV carbs, and one of the diaphragms was split (pretty common problem apparently). Ran miles better after swapping these in. Had a crack at condensing all the electronics down into an under-seat box. Tiny gel battery means that the original battery tray (which was incomplete anyway) was unecessary. Got carried away. Also converted to blade fuses with some AliExpress goodies. Has gear, hurrah! Despite the stealth electronics box, I wasn't quite happy with the side profile. Had to keep factory airbox as apparently the CV carbs have a mare if you run them on pods, so the whole area was a little cluttered. Only had one side panel and it was damaged, so decided to make some simple ones up out of sheet to cover it up a bit. Pretty happy with that.
  34. 5 likes
    Much to talk about... First of all, #CleansheetVTNZ #Levelimposibleclocked Time to set my mind onto more interesting things, hooked up the wideband to the Niva and had a horrible surprise, all nice at idle and up to 50kmh, but then open up the secondaries and she's rich as, so rich no amount of tweaking and miniature jets could alter, I gave the single carb a full half day of messing about but in the end ditched it for the dellortos, even though these are rich, the results were far more consistent and changes to mixture followed changes I made. With the twins on it was time for some serious thinking, driving around with the wideband on the dash wasn't really the easiest thing to do so I sat down last night with a beer and bashed the keyboard to get python to read throttle position and mixture via arduino, all thats needed then is a tps on the carb, PAP wanted $40 but i'm too cheap for that kind of extravagance, headed down to jaycar and grabbed a $3 10k potentiometer and aluminium knob for $4, mix that with a bit of scrap ali sheet and boom, tps! (well not quite, still had to hack a slot for the shaft to engage in, man I wish I had a mill!) All that set up I dumped the laptop in the passengers seat and had a play Worked out far better than I imagined, managed to tune Idle much quicker than listening, by simply looking at the rev counter and O2 reading, awesome! Pre-drive calibrating of the tps found this wee fella: The 3 equal peaks are me pushing the throttle pedal, the larger peak is holding full throttle on the carbs, few free ponies if I sort the linkages better! With that in mind, I went for a drive and things got tricky... Blue line is O2, red tps, scale is kinda random, but ~500 = good for mixture, tps runs 180->1024 and ignore the green, thats there for when I get engine speed mixed in, but so far its floating along for fun. Oh and graph reads right to left. At cruise and idle mixture is about right, average acceleration (pulling away from lights etc) is lean as, while planting foot runs mega rich(after a brief lean out), my conclusion is the idle jets are a bit small, and needs a size or two up there, and the mains need to be dropped a similar amount with a little more on the pump jets to see about the lean as the pedal hits the floor. Fun times, but man I wish I could just go full EFI without having to cert the darn thing! Discussion about carb tuning tips please:
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    The lads in Christchurch have come through big time and I have a sweet little SR Corolla organised for the Hanmer trip. You folk all love Aucklanders right?
  36. 4 likes
    Post Nats update: Tightened front left wheel bearing, rolled guards a bit more, installed oil, de-greased some bits, changed polarity of windscreen washer so that it squirts instead of sucks. Will remember to take pics next time. Things to do: Fix brake shudder. Still driving it lots. Weekend jaunt on some closed roads (it said ROAD CLOSED AHEAD, not road closed....) around the Clevedon coast with some OSGCs.
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    Lunchtime today I get a call to say I need to go to work and a few minutes later I get a message to say my glass guards will be dropped off in a few hours what was my address. I completely forgot about things due to workload and 12 hours later arrive home to a pair of guards lovingly wrapped in thick sheets. This is why I love OS....There are some seriously good bastards here who insist on doing something for nothing.. it's seriously awesome and I thank you all Also... IV been zapping new steel bits into my chassis! Then bought some chromoly and weld spuds plus a bias valve
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    Oh yeah, ran reasonably well in spite of the carb hoses all being disconnected and better yet, it blew fuck all smoke, so the stem seal job seems to have worked. It doesn't appear I ever documented that, but I did the rope in the cylinder trick with the head on and found that two seals had disintegrated, so now it has new ones, and it is much happier. And the LPG tank and system is nearly all gone except for the filler hose which I haven't got around to crawling under it to remove. When I do the 50 tonne tow bar is coming off too. I hate excess weight. Hopefully between the lighter arse and petrol power it'll do some skids soon.
  39. 4 likes
    One complete box ready for action. Body work will start again in a couple of weeks so looking forward to finally getting progress
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    So this is what happens when I’m on Trademe at midnight…. I accidentally the whole motorcycle. Yup, once again trademe is to blame for this. This had been on my watchlist since it was listed, with a low start reserve. When it came to the day it was closing, and the bidding was still really low, I couldn’t help but watch and see what happened. Sure enough, being midnight, no one was around to bid. One person had set an autobid, so once I exceeded that, it was mine. The photos showed a complete bike, and one that didn’t actually look bad. The seller had this to say I had a skid on this and got spooked, so it ended up sitting in the yard until the registration lapsed. It’s was running when I parked it up, but has been sitting so long now it’s probably only good for parts. So, so sad So yes, the rego is lapsed, and it hasn’t been on the road for 4 years. Apparently it last ran 2 years ago, but not since. It’s also been sitting outside this whole time, and it’s taken its toll. This is the photo that caught my eye It’s a pretty cool looking bike. So, what is it? It’s a 1993 Yamaha FZX250 Zeal. It’s a JDM only (except for a few late-model ones released new into the Aus market) high revving four-cylinder, four-stroke bike. It has about 40hp, 6 gears, and a slightly more upright, relaxed riding position. Despite what my better half says, it’s a fairly small bike but should suit me well. I finally had the bike transported from another suburb, to my house today. I couldn’t do it myself as my only car with a towbar was the S401 and that’s now gone. The transporter was very good, and kept me updated on when it was picked up And when it was delivered (since I was at work) I came home after work and after getting it into the garage, had a good poke around it. The first issue was immediately obvious; either the front, rear, or even both, brakes are seized and binding. This makes it a real dog to push around. I got there though Cosmetically, it’s not bad. Some paint fade, some scuffs and scratches, and a badly torn rear seat are the bulk of it. Theres also some surface corrosion, and general grot (and lots of spider webs and spiders) A quick check of the basics was in order. Oil? Check. Black and thick, but it has some. Front brake fluid? Check, it has some, but it’s gross. Rear brake fluid? Check. Also has some, but a spider tried to come at me bro when I went to take the cap off. I presume it’s also gross. Coolant? I saw something sloshing around in the bottle, so I guess so. Fuel? Once I freed up the lock on the cap, and pried that open, yes, its half full of the most rancid smelling petrol ever. Will turn it into a 50:50 new:old mix for the mower. Free fuel, and better than disposing of it. The Mustang will love it. The tank opening had some rust (and grot), as did the cap. It’ll clean up OK though. I can’t see much inside the tank, but the fuel wasnt obviously full of flakes of rust, and what I could see in there appeared to be nice clean metal. Hopefully it’s not all rusty. Unfortunately the front forks will need rebuilding too. One seal is completely buggered, the other is leaking, and the forks are really soft. Once I worked out how to get the seat off (key on the side. Turn it one way and the helmet holder slides open and closed, turn it the other and the rear seat pops up. One 8mm bolt to release the front seat) I opened it up and checked the wiring and battery. Battery is flatter than a flat thing. Will try reviving it with my charger, but it’s likely toast now. The clutch lever has a lot of play, and doesn’t seem to be disengaging the clutch. The lever looks like its been rotated forward too. The plan? Drain and replace ALL fluids. Recondition/replace front and rear braking system (hoses appear OK, no swelling or cracking) Free up clutch and gearing Rebuild forks Remove, strip and rebuild carbs Drain and inspect fuel tank Replace fuel filter Replace spark plugs I want to try to fire it up sooner rather than later, so I can check that the engine isn’t complete junk, so I wont be doing it in any real order. Brakes, fluids and fuel will be the priority. It should be a nice rewarding project. Eventually I’ll get it back on the road, legally, and enjoy winding that engine up to the 15,000rpm redline. First things first though, I need to tidy up Scooty and get that sold.
  41. 3 likes
    Just run steelies and white walls.
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    I suck at photos. All going well this will be getting collected from its nice warm shed and be dropped off to me next week. I'll have to ask the landlord to put up another garage so I can work on my stuff at home
  43. 3 likes
    I have my buddies in Christchurch working on locating an acceptable mode of transport. If we can come up with a suitable vehicle I will be keen to come down and do the mission to Hanmer.
  44. 3 likes
    This pics ar from sunday after i cleaned up for the day. So far ive only put the old bars back on (flipped) and re atteched all the controls. Ive wired up the head light, contrals, gauges and ignition. Mounted the tank and rear number plate holder and also the new speedo. Now i just have to buy a battery, wire up and mount the indicators, mount the seat some how, remount the rear gaurd (because atm its been held with zip ties) and cut the excess rear frame off,cut the exhaust, as well as most importantly ->MAKE IT RUN AGAIN!
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    After much contorting, sweating and swearing, the side glass and rubbers are all in on the coupe. I just need to fit the door cards and window felts and jobs a goodin. I tore my hood lining the other day….sooo I’m having to buy another $300-$350. I’m not entirely looking forward to fitting it… The engine front mount bracket has been ditched…..the engine was at 8 degrees which is way too much of an angle. This was due to the fact that I’m running a 13b turbo box (89-91 FC RX7) which is substantially taller in the main body than the series 1-3 box. This means it limits the angle as the top of the box contacts the tunnel roof. I’m now getting a custom front bracket that will lover the block 5cm ish which puts the drive train at an acceptable angle. The sump is sitting on a spacer 20mm off the cross member at the moment - now the clutch slave clears the tunnel. Now I need to get a drive shaft made to suit and then set the entire drive train up so that I’m happy with all the angles. THEN the front bracket can be made…THEN the custom quad throttle body intake manifold can then be made to suit the angle of the block. I got a drive shaft off a mate however it appears to be 20mm too short unfortunately - when you are talking about a high revving engine, you really want the drive shaft to be on point etc. Yes I have a loop to go in. I also tidied up and prepped the diff brake line and fitted a new hose I had hanging about the place 4 steps forward, 6 back….
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    RR door striker RR door/sill LR door/arch/pillar. Shocking! RR guard RR C pillar RR C pillar LOL so fragile and thin. RR wheel arch RR sill RF door RF door/sill/guard RF A pillar lower RF A pillar LF door LR guard LR C pillar LR C pillar LR sill/pillar LF C pillar lower LF guard LH bonnet RH bonnet RH bonnet RF guard
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    You can't just say "build space stuff" then bugger off. SPACE STUFF!!
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    And a waaaaayyyyy over engineered gas cap. But come on, its sexy eh! My OCD kicked in and I even domed the top because it looks better that way. Kj
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    Finished! Bit of machining porn for you!
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    To continue with the theme of not finishing any of the utes sub- projects before moving on to another, today I decided to clean up and repair the leather Audi seats so they are ready for installation (even though the rest of the vehicle isn't, lol) Research was done and I did my best while also being extremely cheap. Firstly the seats were given an extremely through cleaning using an old toothbrush and soapy water to get human filth out of all the stitching, seams and cracks. Just this made a huge difference which is hard to show via pics. Before After Next I got a $6 bottle of liquid shoe polish. It is NOT like shoe nugget- this is a thin black liquid that dries and will not rub off- more of a dye. Multiple layers of this were applied to each cracked area- allowed to soak for a short while and then rubbed off with a rag (so it pretty much only remains in the cracks and damage) Before After So the cracks in the color layer are still there- they just don't stick out like they used to. Next up was this hole in the driver's side bolster. This side is pretty fucked and I always said I'd get it replaced properly....But reality says NO right now. Here's the hole. So I copied some instructional videos for $100 repair kits and made a backing patch out of vinyl. I trimmed the hole up a bit cleaner and stuffed the vinyl in there with the cloth surface facing out so the adhesive had a nice surface to bond. Next I grabbed a tube of trusty simpson panel/chassis adhesive and squeezed some out onto cardboard. I agree this is a strange choice of poo BUT in my defence- I know it sticks to EVERYTHING extremely well, it remains flexible when cured AND it is easily painted. I used a flat blade screwdriver to push glue between the vinyl and leather and pushed the leather down as hard as I could. Then I filled the depression with adhesive and smoothed it out as best I could using a rag soaked in thinners. I tried to stipple the surface so it wasn't glossy smooth. Once that was cured I used my finger to apply some cheap black paint. This was WAY WAY WAY WAY more effective than I expected and after a damn good rubbing have established it's pretty durable too! Not perfect but you wouldn't know it's there unless you look really closely! So after a through coating with leather conditioner cream here's the end result.. I'm EXTREMELY happy with how they came out
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