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Posted

Then photoshop it slammed with the front wheels at ungodly angles to really upset the Barries. 

Which is the way with imps it seems. Oh the hate for this one from team Barry when it pops up... 

 

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Posted
4 hours ago, anglia4 said:

That’s awesome! So stoked, and it sounds great.

Rollercoaster of emotions on Oldschool this morning between my two fav threads, this one and @Romans

He is absolutely killing it! (project progress)
 I am absolutely killing it! (my engine)
 

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Posted

So unbelievably stoked to see this running and all your hardwork has it sounding amazing from day 1!

Don't worry about the oil leaks, the honda is just trying to fit in long term.

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Posted

Cheers mr old seven and @NickJ   I'm stoked for sure but also really wanting to sort out these little issues - especially the oil leaks.

I'm now wondering if my crankcase breather sizing is not up to it when the engine is given the welly. Iirc the outlet stub has an ID of something like 8mm. I'll check. Then through to the catch can which it enters via a stub with a 8mm hole I think.  The hole size at that little venturi thing (of which I don't think probably creates a huge draw) is maybe 6mm.  Possibly all a bit too small and convoluted compared to the original goldwing setup which involved a simple pipe exiting the top of the crankcase, in a similar area to mine (see the masking tape near the top at back of engine that I had put over it the day I'd started stripping the engine)....

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 A tube exits that, heads straight up and into this oil trap...

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From there it exits and is drawn into the carb filter box.

I'll try some tests. I'll remove my line from the breather stub and run it straight to atmosphere just to see if it helps. Would be interesting to also attach a basic vac gauge to the line I've removed and see what draw I get from my catch can exit venturi at the air filter. 

I don't really want to start trying to seal up the gasket weeps before I sort out any crankcase pressurising issues.

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Posted

Near as i can tell from the parts fische, it's 4 main bearings so three shared crankpins with piston pairs going left to right together. This should not inherently pressurise the cases. Unlike a BMW flat twin which has them coming in together and out together which does pressurise the cases.

So breather size shouldn't be a problem.

Which leaves bedding the rings. You gave it a hone and reused the rings from memory. Which given the right oil should not be a problem. In my experience these low pressure rings won't bed on anything but straight mineral.

Also I suspect the cut sump may be allowing the crank to splash oil into the bores as the oil level will be higher than before/closer to the crank.

Great work so far. Only minor stuff to sort now.

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Posted

I just pulled the pistons, gave them a clean, didn't even touch the rings and put them all back in the same place. It's running on 5/40 castrol edge full synthetic. In hindsight I should have thrown in just some good old mineral so not to waste expensive oil as ideally it should be changed after a bit of use, if only because all the new metal on metal chainysprocketyclashy things bedding in.  But I'm also aware it's good practice if you're going to run good oil from the start to run it from the start and good full synthetic oils have so many advantages (and can be had cheap on sale) 

But good to know about the breather size. So really it's just more general blowby and heat expansion to get out. I'll have a play and first evaluate the leaks on the hoist when it's running. 

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