anglia4

Oh sweet. I won't muck about then and will just leave all the belts as they are. Thanks!

My Galaxie is advertised from new as being a 10-seat option and I want to register it as such. Being a 67, it doesn't require rear seat belts, so I'm not fussed about that. But to achieve the 10-seat thing, it has 3 seats across the front bench, but currently only 2 seat belts. I'm assuming I'll need the third lap belt in the front for my VIN check guys to sign it off as 10 seats. Is it OK to bolt in a lap belt that shares the bolt holes with the other two belts? I was just going to take out all of the rear belts and use one of them in the front for the inspection so that they all match.

Windscreen is installed. Thanks to Taranaki Windscreens. Now, FINALLY, I will be able to give it a wash. When it arrived from the states it got pushed straight into the shed, then had no suspension, then no window, now its ready for a bath.

I think mr vitesse is querying the calibration going forwards. You’ve calibrated the numbers on the face, but the odo will still roll over kms fast/slow at Mitsubishi pace won’t it? so your economy calcs will be wrong 😵‍💫

I haven't worked on this for aaaaages since the Galaxie arrived and I've been focusing on that. But I need to start making some progress on it because we would like to go camping at New Years. So today I got out there and cut out the floor. Then I jacked it up high to get ready for replacing the drawbar. I jacked the front up with the jockey wheel and put axle stands under the front of the chassis. I already had some stands under the back, but thought I would jack it up a little higher in the bum. Stuck the Jack under it, and it flexed the whole bloody thing so much that one of the semi-detached front corners let go and the whole fucking then felt like it was going to collapse. This thing is so terrifying to work on, I have to think so hard at every step whether what I'm about to do will make it cave in. In positive news, there is no rust in the chassis.

That looks pretty tidy! What was the process with VTNZ to get the VIN plate assigned without putting it through the whole VIN check vehicle inspection? (or have I misunderstood). I'm thinking it would be a good idea for my to get my Austin 7 an identity before I go taking the ancient number plates off it for the rebuild.

Thats pretty cool. Is there any muffling in that pipe or does it sounds awesome? <3

I’m just going to drop these here for later 🤫

The paint match is not even close 😅 Not a drama though as it will all be covered by the glue and chrome. It was a good test for the rust repair I have to do though. For that I might have to take the fuel door off and get it paint matched by the laser paint matcher thing.

I’ve been spending some time locked in my garage with a heater running and some strong aerosol paint fumes this week. Primed it, smoothed out some pitting, primered again, and sprayed white. Don’t let me forget the clearcoat… I only remembered that as I’m writing this… It’s nearly ready for the windscreen to go back in. I also fitted the roof rack. It’s a proper wagon now.

Nothing too exciting here, just the video to go with the post above.

What are the relevant legalities around making the EGR and DPF go away?

Jeeves says it absolutely will not do a DPF burn while the ETC light is on.

Alrighty. My bluetooth OBDII tool arrived from China the other day, so I've been able to get a bit deeper into things. So it definitely appears that the oil viscosity code is more than likely being caused by the DPF, and that I really need to take it for a big long drive. I have also reset the oil change counter, so we can rule that out now. To complicate matters though... yesterday I got the Electronic Throttle Control light come up on the dash, which comes with a limp mode effect where it won't let me have most of the engine torques. So I'm not sure if it will do the DPF burn while that light is on I can't find a specific code or module related to that on JSCAN, but did find some other interesting codes hiding deep in the tool: It appears that one of the O2 sensors is unplugged or faulty. I asked Jeeves if this could cause the ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) fault, and it said yes it could mess with the calculations and put it into fault mode. So I'm going to start by checking the 02 sensor and see if I can solve that one. Any suggestions are welcome! I have no idea what I am doing.

Wow. Misa shed move will take a few hands and a couple of minutes. Is he leaving Taupo?

Today I took the day off work with the plan of pulling the engine and box, but that plan fell through, so I shifted it outside and took the opportunity to give my shed a decent sweep out for the first time this year. Then I spent the afternoon getting all the windscreen adhesive off. What a shit of a job. It’s resting with some rust treatment on the surface rust at the moment. It’s in surprisingly good shape. Next on the list is to tackle the dash pad.

Yeah that was my thought too

Been sitting for yonks. i have a filter kit for it. Just need to get it as far as my dads hoist…

I have been slowly chipping away at jobs on this. i got the brakes back together a few weeks ago and put it back on the ground. One thing I noticed while poking around underneath, was that one of the trans cooler lines had a hole in it… I patched it up with some hose and clamps as a temporary repair, and checked the oil which had the correct level, but was suspiciously clean… Nevertheless, it was time to attempt movement under its own power. I fired it up, got the whole family out to watch, and put it into D. Nothing happened… I gave it a rev, and as the rpm came back to idle it lurched forward and started to drive. I managed to get it out of the shed, which was good cos then I could give it a proper warm up and run for a while. Sorted a couple of leaks and then backed it back into the shed with the same rev-lurch approach. So yeah… I’m thinking the transmission might be a bit stuffed. I gave it another good warm up yesterday and checked the fluid and topped it up a wee bit. Then managed to drive a lap of the cul-de-sac! It seems to be really shitty at selecting gears, so I’m wondering if the valve body needs some attention. Proof that I drove it, it’s the wrong way round in the garage. Edit: photos are failing from my phone. I’ll come back and finish this on my pc!

@alfalfa keen to nearly freeze to death again?

My scan tool seems to be too basic to feed me that much info. Annoyingly, the 2011/2012 jeeps, as far as I know, can only have the oil change counter reset with a proper tool. I’ve had the “oil change due” warning on startup for the last 50,000kms…

Yeah google had filled me in on this. And I think it may have been doing a regen when it first threw the code as I stopped and got out of the car to pick something up and all the fans were going hard, for seemingly no reason, a few minutes before the light came on. i thought changing the oil would have taken out the diesel though? It doesn’t get highway driven often these days so I might take it out for a run this afternoon. Would half an hour be enough?

Valid

I’ve got a 2012 Grand Cherokee WK2 3.0 crd. Last week it threw a check engine light, fault code p1d30, which google tells me is “low oil viscosity”. So yesterday I changed the oil and filter, and then drove about 4km into town and parked. When I started it up again, the check engine light was back on, with the same code Does anyone know what can cause this fault code? and, how does it measure it? 4km of driving doesn’t feel like enough time for the oil viscosity to be genuinely altered, so I’m wondering if it might be a faulty sensor, or some other issue.

Either of those is >40 years old so the annual rego is cheap as. Like $60 a year or something. if you are talking re-vin from dead rego, just go and ask the local VTNZ / AA what their fee is.