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Posted

I think mr vitesse is querying the calibration going forwards.

You’ve calibrated the numbers on the face, but the odo will still roll over kms fast/slow at Mitsubishi pace won’t it?

so your economy calcs will be wrong 😵‍💫

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Posted
1 hour ago, anglia4 said:

I think mr vitesse is querying the calibration going forwards.

You’ve calibrated the numbers on the face, but the odo will still roll over kms fast/slow at Mitsubishi pace won’t it?

so your economy calcs will be wrong 😵‍💫

Ahhh yes OK I see what you mean.  It'll be fine. The original mitsi speedo read about 110~115 at 100 true. So only around 10% out. Some of that will be the seemingly typical over optimistic Japanese speedos? 

Once it's up and running again I'll see how the odo reads on a long trip compared to GPS (the original imp odometer is optimistic and I have to allow 5% in my calculations) 

 

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Posted
51 minutes ago, tortron said:

Perfect time to make up some nice brass gears for a diy inline speedo corrector. I have an old Miles to kph one in morrie

I have actually made a little adaptor that screws onto the existing imp speedo cable to fit a spare toyota hall sensor so hopefully my new setup can run off that when I refit the datsun for wof time. However the imp speedo cable runs off the front wheel so it's spinning at wheel rpm. 

I have no idea yet what the actual speed is of the subaru output is. Most Japanese boxes spin at similar speeds from what I know. I'm hoping it'll be close to wheel rpm.  If it's way out then I'll have to locate and fit a speedo corrector to alter the pulse frequency (Jaycar used to sell a kit years ago but I'm sure there's something cheap that could be built... @h4nd..... 

Posted

(sucks teeth) 

yeah, that's gonna cost coffee and lamingtons.

As a brofessional firmware engineer, I gotta say: have you considered brass gears?

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Posted
Quote

#define adjust_ratio 1.00

#define pulse_ip 7        // input
int ontime,offtime,duty;
float freq,period;

#define pulse_op 8       // output

void setup()
{
  pinMode(pulse_ip,INPUT);
  pinMode(pulse_op,OUTPUT);
}

void loop()
{
   ontime = pulseIn(pulse_ip,HIGH);
   offtime = pulseIn(pulse_ip,LOW);
   period = ontime+offtime;
   freq =  1000000.0/period;
   duty = (ontime/period)*100; 
   
    tone(pulse_op, adjust_ratio * freq);
   
   delay(100);
}

NB: this simple form pulse output is limited to min 31 Hz.

Prob have to re-write the Arduino library...

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Posted

If you've got any IO left over.
Bring the speedo signal into your ECU, then output a result from that to your dash to run the gauge. 

 

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Posted
23 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

Jaycar used to sell a kit years ago but I'm sure there's something cheap that could be built

i could never get these to work with holden 700r4 to holden dash with mitsi diff. 

yellowbox worked right out of the box

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Posted

I have got io left but I was a very very silly boy and never thought to add any wires to the remaining spare pins on the db37 plugs (dear old megasquirt - db37.. chuckle..). The whole loom is wound up tight in several rolls of insulating tape and I really don't want to upset what works. 

Silly me. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, tortron said:

i could never get these to work with holden 700r4 to holden dash with mitsi diff. 

yellowbox worked right out of the box

I seem to remember a thread about this subject yonks ago. 

Yep. It is probably one of those very tricky sort complex things to create for to the layman like me but a lammington eating rocket science level of electronics genius boffin would build in his smoko break.... :geek:

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Posted
2 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

rocket science level of electronics genius boffin

yeah look, if I hear of any, I'll tell them how good a coffee you make ;-)

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Posted

Nice work Alex, I think you may have out done yourself with the pod set up! Not only the fact you can get all these different parts working together but it all looks so factory, but better!

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Posted

Hey Alex, I usually log in roughly every three - four months and have a good old catch up on your build, I found it on page 3?? 

Like I'm not angry but I am a bit disappointed....... 

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Posted

That dash looks amazing. You’re a clever chap! Bugger about the flood damage. I’m picking out in the countryside you’ll have gc neighbours for help and even someone with the right machinery?

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Posted

Yeah in true kiwi fashion the way the broader community of Tasman has come together to help others in need has been really amazing.  Some amazing amounts of random folk offering help and volunteers turning up to clean up other peoples properties.

We are very lucky its at the far end of the property and doesn't affect our yard/workshop etc. Once that tree is chopped up our neighbour will help with his digger/truck and we'll clear enough to make the bottom of the gully presentable again. 

Here's some other pics of the extent of the silt/sand/slash just in our valley alone. The straight bit of the road that leads to the beaches about 2km away is now at least a metre below the level of the fields. Fences have disappeared below silt.

 

Screenshot_20250728_171359_YouTube (Medium).jpg

Screenshot_20250728_222130_YouTube (Medium).jpg

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Posted

The dash looks mint. It doesn't look like it's an add on at all. What prep did you use to get good adhesion for the leather to the alloy and what glue did you use. I am working on the Minx dash as well at the moment.

Not nice to see the mess the weather bomb delivered, we've had to look at the same for a while now as well. That big old tree looks like it could be good timber.

Posted

image.thumb.jpeg.48a202cbe59260424292198ce18d1681.jpeg

Cheers - I wanted the dash to fit in with the original dash top and at a quick glance it seems to. I used the above glue. I keyed the alloy with 60 grit sand paper. I'm sure there's probably better glues out there but with this you can peel the leather off and try again which was handy for some trickier areas. 

The tree has been down a few years so my got feeling is firewood only but will know more soon when I start hacking into it. 

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