Spencer Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 You cant compare the modern cars, they get so much better all the time and the rules are constantly making changes to reduce the aero so the racing stays exciting (the wings have shrink shit loads). The modern cars could do insane shit with more/different wing, the rules opened up for under-body shit, exhaust in the rear wing and all that jazz. Fan car FTW though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Linux photo upright, and date / time correction (you know, actual cameras, and timezones). ubuntu default photo editor ... ... doesn't save changes to file .... bug list... \blah blah ..."everyone else doesn't honour the exif rotate flag". Marked "will not fix". Fuck you linux. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 was rocket propelled downforce ever tried? 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 Wile E. Coyote gave it a go a few times. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Thinking about adding a second battery to a van, wanting to keep it isolated from the main battery, any reason I couldn't use a couple big diodes to stop it draining the main battery but still let it charge off the alt? Have seen the proper kits, but surely there pretty simple/can be made cheaper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Vsr is best option. Need big are diodes and you'll get a volt drop across them so batteries won't charge as well 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 I was putting in some lower spring to some mac struts last night, and noticed that the top hat and strut centres are eccentric - in my head this has an impact on caster and camber, but not sure where to align it initially (one of the 1st stops once car is back together is alignment) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 What's the car? Depends how many bolt holes it has but I know (for example) with the sw20 mr2 you can turn the strut top 180° to add caster and in turn (lol, pun) increase front end grip. (It's been a few years, hope my memory is right) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Would an overtightened cambelt whine hard like pingin gilliez? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Would an overtightened cambelt whine hard like pingin gilliez? Yes. 3sfe cambelts like doing that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Hah Engine in question is a 3sfe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Crank up a standard V belt tight enough and it'll sound like junior gillez! /really should loosen my alternator belt a bit, but CBF removing drivers seat and floor again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Yes. 3sfe cambelts like doing that Really? replaced belt and water pump in the caldina and its whining hard, being that its spring tensioned should it be backed off or left as is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Tensioner needs be set at 60* past tdc or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Better check this before is causes trouble then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 What's the car? Depends how many bolt holes it has but I know (for example) with the sw20 mr2 you can turn the strut top 180° to add caster and in turn (lol, pun) increase front end grip. (It's been a few years, hope my memory is right) Its an st215 caldina. It has the plate you bolt to the strut tower and is fastened to the threaded strut. This holds down a plate/hat below it thats on top of the spring. Its this plate/hat thats eccentric to the strut hole. I might need to grab a pic to explain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Tensioner needs be set at 60* past tdc or somethingThats on the hydro tensioners innit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 question for some peeps Thermo fan switches I'm looking at putting a Radiator hose inline adapter thing to run my thermo fan, ie, fitting in a thermo fan switch. 2jzge Thermostat opens at 82 degrees I would safely assume you wouldn't want a switch that closes below this temp, as thermostat would constantly be opening and closing, So what sort range do you people think I should be looking for here? was guessing something along the lines if this http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/483/switches-and-sensors/2014/thermo-fan-switches/283/TFS111 open at 95, closes at 90. Seems like reasonable temp range..... I understand there are other factors here to consider, ie fan efficiency, but I assume it would be a good place to start? Just to add, fan is like a 16 inch jobbie And yeah. that, is my story. Any suggestions would be epic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 pretty much what you are thinking Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Yup you're on to it Al, closing at least a couple degrees above what the thermostat opens at is the go, fan will be running all the time otherwise, the rad can take the heat by itself (puhuhu) for a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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