Spencer Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 If you spend like $150 on a decent controller you can just use a normal thermistor (the gauge one) and set the fans up to come on/off at any range. I have found using switches can be hit and miss as every application is different. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escorto. Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Its an st215 caldina. It has the plate you bolt to the strut tower and is fastened to the threaded strut. This holds down a plate/hat below it thats on top of the spring. Its this plate/hat thats eccentric to the strut hole. I might need to grab a pic to explain That is just to make more room for wheels. Won't affect camber/caster.Is the bottom spring seat offset too? Just match them up. Usually towards the centre? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 In my old ute I added a manual fan switch as well for stationary load tests. Easy to do because the thermal fan switch switches the relay to earth so just run another wire into the cabin to turn in on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 If you spend like $150 on a decent controller you can just use a normal thermistor (the gauge one) and set the fans up to come on/off at any range. I have found using switches can be hit and miss as every application is different. I had considered this, but then I found my rear tyres are going to be like, $250 to $300 beans. So would rather go for the cross my fingures 40 dollar option haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 door frames and seals - '64 coon leaks like the sieve that it is. front door window frames are bent outward and seals are barely contacting the body around the window frames.. anyone successfully bent window frames back inward before? how'd ya do it? I'm worried I'll break something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Wind window down. Knee against door catch. Pull top of window frame. Profit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 sweet as, chur. i see a bit of nothing nothing frameless doors in my future 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Roof chop it. You'll have to redo the frames anyway. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 That is just to make more room for wheels. Won't affect camber/caster. Is the bottom spring seat offset too? Just match them up. Usually towards the centre? yep pretty sure bottom is eccentric too, i never got a pic, will do over weekend, i see what you are saying though, it will just change the spring's eccentricity with the strut, and its the strut which is the linkage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Yea Manu just bend it in, have done this a few time times. Are the seals new though? no point bending it in for old seals. Check general door alignment first though, if they have been off there's a high chance they are on crooked and exaggerating the problem. Or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 worn door hindges from a constant stream of hotties getting in and out / Joes Mum 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 all of the above may apply, except for the hotties. cheers yeah seals are old as the hills but i can see the frame is out of wikkity wack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Are the frames 1 piece with the door? If so take alot of points of reference measurements Bending You probably know what a bicycle frame bending tool looks like? Use something like that to tweek it, easy as. Can make one from a 2x4 and shape it to fit the door so it doesn't damage anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Something interesting about driving with a live axle that I've noticed over the last while. I start going into a corner and the car will roll a bit. But then as roll increases I think the shock on the inside reaches its limit of travel and you can feel it start to pull the diff up off the ground.Something like this It feels like the cars rear roll centre is at the centre of the car to start with, then moves to the outside wheel once the inside wheel starts getting pulled up off the ground. But it's two very noticeable characteristics before the car will lift and inside wheel or start oversteering. You can feel when the car gets to that "wheel lift" point (and try keep the car below that point) well before its lost traction or anything like that. IRS is for quitters 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 IRS is for people who bought the correct Carina to begin with. pewhuehue 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 The IRS ones are flappy arm though? He's probably better off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Yeah the factory IRS isnt toooooo amazing in these cars. It would be nice to be able to adjust rear camber to keep tire temps even at trackdays though. But it comes with a whole other set of foibles due to lots of toe change through suspension travel etc. Although its less unsprung weight, it's heavier overall compared to live axle. There's a really interesting race car that I saw in NZPC ages ago, it was like a modern Mazda 6 or something converted to RWD. It had a solid beam rear end with a watts linkage, but the diff head was mounted to the body and it had CVs on the driveshafts which lead to the hubs mounted to the solid beam. It was like a live axle setup but with none of the unsprung weight of the diff head. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 That is interdasting. Sounds similar to a de-Dion setup but with a watts linkage added? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Just used the ol' wiki and the '98 Ford Ranger EV seems to have done similar to what you mention Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 At first I was like "Why the hell would you go to all of that effort to end up with a weird liveaxle/non liveaxle thing instead of proper IRS" But then realised it had a whole heap of scope for adjustment on all of the suspension links to adjust roll centre, traction from link angles etc that you probably couldnt do with a mac strut or whatever. I dunno, maybe it was still a well engineered stupid idea. But it was definitely something unusual that caught my eye. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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