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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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Random question for the day, when I push on the brake pedal it seems to be sending a spike through the vans electrics and will occasionally cause the stereo to trip and turn off and restart and you can see the headlights (when they are on) and dash lights flicker/surge whne you push the pedal (i suspect its when the brake light switch is triggered). Before starting on a wild goose hunt, any ideas on what could be causing this?

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Have you recently been playing around with removing / installing trim, and possibly put a screw through a wire? My brother managed that and blew fuses every time he hit the brakes, which being a shared fuse took out half the car systems.

I had the exact same symptoms with my indicator, due to the numpties who installed the towbar running the wiring past the tailgate latch which then got squished and shorted out. Somehow it wasn't enough to pop the fuse but it caused havoc with the dash and stereo.

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Has anyone here attempted to retrofit a later model Nissan igniter ('90s PRW2 style) to an earlier Nissan engine running the button-style Hitachi igniter? Or sort of knows what they are doing when it comes to this sort of thing?

 

Found some pinouts for both setups, but it doesn't appear to be a 1 to 1 retrofit scenario.

 

I had hoped it would be similar to adapting COPs to a MX-5 but nope, not even close.

 

Didn't think so.

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If you have googled that and come up short then it's likely not a common conversion therefore chances of someone on oldschool pulling out the answer in one morning is exactly as you encountered, zero.

You will most likely need to scope both of these units in operation and compare if the inputs/outputs are the same (or close enough). Igniters aren't super smart, but as you know they can have varying degrees of complexity that could foil your plan. If you actually want to do it start learning some shit and start a thread maybe.

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Re dodgy wiring causing random shorts, does the trailer cable happen to pass close to the exhaust? Might be worth checking. One of my EA coons had a similar issue on a family holiday once. It broke the tail pipe off the back of the third muffler somewhere in North Canterbury on the afternoon of Good Friday. We drove on from Cheviot with the windows down for fresh air just in case it was sucking fumes back in. Lost the dashboard lights somewhere in the lower half of the North Island, carried on. Desert road at night unable to see the speedo, still with windows down. Taupo for breakfast, so far so good. Day time again, don't need dashboard lights now. Stopped for juice at Hamilton and no indicators or brake lights working either. Drove on to Northland without indicators or brake lights cos Easter weekend and nothing was open. Described symptoms to ex wife's new husband who'd done his time at the local Ford garage and without even seeing the car he identified the problem having seen it before more than once at his old work. Heat from the broken exhaust had melted the trailer cable and blown multiple fuses. We had just enough functional circuits left for the car to start and run.

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SSD vs HDD (spinny). I have noticed that my mac is indeed much faster, since I rebuilt it with an SSD. However, every time it needs to touch an old HDD, there is noticeable lag when the backup disk, external disc, etc spins up. (E.g. finder = windows_explorer = nautilus). Conclusion: not really, just noting it for anyone's interest. I expect it'll need full SSD all 'round to get the most out of the machine (Lol, a core 2 duo).

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SSD vs HDD (spinny). I have noticed that my mac is indeed much faster, since I rebuilt it with an SSD. However, every time it needs to touch an old HDD, there is noticeable lag when the backup disk, external disc, etc spins up. (E.g. finder = windows_explorer = nautilus). Conclusion: not really, just noting it for anyone's interest. I expect it'll need full SSD all 'round to get the most out of the machine (Lol, a core 2 duo).

SSD is next level awesome in my mac, twice as fast as before, might have to hook up a hdd this arvo and have a play, see if it does the same.

Had a look at external ssd drives not too long ago and the prices are similar to what I was paying a few years back for a hdd.

 

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My little netbook was an aaaabsolute piece of crap with the standard super slow hard drive in it.

 

SSD and it's a whole new machine.

 

Same goes for main PC, even if it's just one you run the operating system and a few core programs on.

 

Makes a world of difference to boot up times etc.

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hi gang,

  i have an '89 hilux with a 3Y that had some head work done by previous owner. i know the guys who did the work so no major question marks there.

it has a leaky dizzy seal i know i need to sort.

it also has a nice ticky tick on startup that eventually fades, a lifter or similar i presume?

 

i am inexperienced in these these thus far, what do i do, and is it cause for concern given a 700ish km round trip for hawkes boes later this month?

 

yo yo.

replaced dizzy o-ring, awaiting results.

noticed a lot of skuzz at the front bottom of engine too, so just fishing for anyone's experience here before i decide i need to pull things apart.. anyone know what sort of seals are present in the front of the 3Y/can i do the crank seal in situ?

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If its the front main it will be doable in place, just a normal metric shaft seal of some kind. Leak could be form the timing cover also, could do both that gasket and then the front main will be easy to do with the cover off the car. Pretty much a easy weekend job if you have the gear to undo/do up the crank pulley bolt and a decent puller to get it off.

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