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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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9 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Is that because Mitsubishi rings/valve seats couldnt seal well.enough to hold the valve up?

Yes the air goes right past the rings into the sump and then back up past the rings on the next cylinder and out the exhaust 

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These disposable welding gas bottles, are they any good? Do they last any sort of reasonable time? I have a couple of small patches of rust I need to weld, and have no gas/regulator at the moment and thinking of changing from flux cored to solid wire for this job just to have better/cleaner welds.

https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/O0185

I know the bunnings side D bottles are good value, but $129 + $240 (plus regulator) is a bit much for me since I use the welder once every couple of blue moons.

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20 hours ago, kws said:

These disposable welding gas bottles, are they any good? Do they last any sort of reasonable time? I have a couple of small patches of rust I need to weld, and have no gas/regulator at the moment and thinking of changing from flux cored to solid wire for this job just to have better/cleaner welds.

https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/O0185

I know the bunnings side D bottles are good value, but $129 + $240 (plus regulator) is a bit much for me since I use the welder once every couple of blue moons.

They're terrible.  I used them for a while but they just don't last worth a shit,, far more cost effective to go a proper bottle. If you really want to try it I can send you a regulator for them. 

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Yeah it's bad value for sure. One of those 2.2L cylinders probably costs the same as a full size cylinder refill. Costs a bit more up front, but having a cylinder tucked away means you can weld as much as you want. Could pick up a cheap reg off trademe and a cylinder off there too for not silly money. Test every 5 years ~$100 (with co2 fill) and no other costs other than refills. If you really have super limited need, just give someone a Rutherford to bring their welder over and get it sorted. Rental options when I first started were super limited, so I purchased a cylinder. The bunnings deals seem all good now. $250 gets you a 5KG co2 cylinder delivered (trademe) plus ~$70 for reg delivered (trademe). Bit more than the above combo of 2.2L cylinder + a reg. But you'd get 50 times the repairs done i'd say.

 

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Yup I fizzed thru a couple of those disposable co2 bottles very very quickly then just got a rental 

Surely you can rent a full bottle local and just return it after a month or 2 ? 

16$ a month and about 60$ for a fill is what I’m paying 

 

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On 18/11/2020 at 19:15, Roman said:

Dear people-who-know-things, 

Any advice on a valve spring removal tool? 

Just to follow up, I'd been massively overthinking the complexity of this job. 

(with head on the bench off motor)

Step 1: place stuff under the valves to stop them moving/bending

Step 2: place a 19mm socket with a magnetic thing on the inside, on top of the retainer

Step 3: hit it with the hammer

step 4: Valve retainer thing is off

Too easy 

Now to try the rope trick and get a knot stuck in it 

Might try on a pick a part engine first haha.

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Ive just welded some patches in to remove some rust, and need some bog to smooth out the fuck up from the previous person that tried to fix it. I've never used bog before, so what is the go?

I need to fill and level out where the patches are, and its currently bare metal. Some sort of rust inhibitor would be nice, but dont know if thats a thing? Do i zinc paint it before bog? Im not filling/bridging any holes, so I guess a normal "filler" is ok and I dont need metal or fibreglass? Just this ? https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/septone-septone-car-filler---500g/1332.html#q=filler&lang=en_NZ&start=4

And then its a case of sand sand sand, prime, sand, paint?

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