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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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1 hour ago, chasinthemirage said:

Fairmont has a coolant leak from one of the heater bypass hoses. I cut the end off the hose and replaced the clamp. Leaking less than it was but still weeping. The metal pipe is fairly crusty but it's a bit of a nightmare to get to as it's under the inlet manifold. Any ideas?

You're fucked. I've just recently replaced all those hoses on mine. You'll have to take the manifold off to reach anything. Check the distributor cap, rotor and leads while you're in there.

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I was doing a timing belt job on my 4afe corolla and re-used the hollow locating pin. I didn't put it back in properly and unfortunately the pin came out and have to re-do the job. 

Said pin fits in this highlighted bit 

4Th82A9.jpeg

However I can't find a part no for a new one so off to the wreckers it is. 

I've been told to 'flare' it out before installing, is there any other tips as this is my 2nd timing belt job and 1st with a spring tensioner.. 

Or do I tap a thread and install a bolt perhaps? 

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Yeah the bit your after is part of the oil pump.  They usually stuck in there pretty good, not something that would just come out.   hole maybe flogged out and may need to look into other options, if just falls out. rather than the factory part

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On 21/09/2022 at 19:19, HighLUX said:

Remove pipe wire wheel then build up with Jb weld sand and sealing again

Sweet will give this a go, cheers!

On 21/09/2022 at 19:37, igor said:

You're fucked. I've just recently replaced all those hoses on mine. You'll have to take the manifold off to reach anything. Check the distributor cap, rotor and leads while you're in there.

I was worried that might be the case, managed to do the hose by forcing my arm through a gap but it wasn't easy. Might give it a birthday while I'm there.

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25 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

Sweet mother of jebus this is a life changer

 

 

Eh? What does "locked in place" actually mean? I've only had drills slipping with larger sizes if they get caught on a dag. But I've never had the ratchet chuck come undone by itself.

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I've bypassed the heater in the Fairmont as it's more admin than I have time for at the moment. I've run a hose from the outlet from the thermostat housing to the coolant hardline that runs around the back of the engine and goes to the water pump, bypassing both the heater tap and core. Because of where it has to run through the inlet manifold it's got a fairly tight bend in it and is on the verge of collapsing on itself. The original bypass that links the two pipes is still in place so there's a small but constant coolant flow, if the hose that I've added does collapse will this cause any issues? I can't see it being any different to having the heater tap closed (which is no longer fitted) but it's been a sec since I've done any car stuff and I want to make sure I haven't missed anything.

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7 hours ago, mjrstar said:

Pinion angle, driveshaft length etc.. Has all been covered off yeah? 

yup yup .

 

I did actually notice the clutch fork has no movement when i looked at it this morning.

makes me wonder if the offset of this flywheel is incorrect... 

or an issue with the master and slave combo.. they are a matched pair of s1 rx7 units.

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What actually happens @shizzl by the first post you did it sounds like motor runs.

But when put in gear and try to drive the drive line binds up. Does the motor stall like it's being jammed too? 

Surely if it's in gear with your foot on the clutch and it still runs there should be nothing wrong with the clutch arrangement

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