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Witchcraft! I just replaced the original fusebox with a new magical one from the future which isn't all hot and melty and gives me more than 9 volts at the headlights! Amaze. Represent. Another year of legality. And since all my thread images are poked, here's one so you and I don't forget what she looks like. <3

This year has been a real rollercoaster. I've had far too many projects on my plate (and a lack of motivation to finish them), not much expendable income and a huge life change with my 5+ year relationship ending... So I've been planning on thinning the hoard, moving somewhere else and starting a new life. So when an old, rare 2 stroke bike showed up, the logical thing to do would be to pass on it. Right? WRONG. Enter the Wolf. This piece of Suzuki engineering is 1969-1971 Suzuki T90 Wolf. It's very closely related to a T125 stinger. My dad and I missed out on a T125 last year and we were gutted. It was a green one in "barn find" condition- but appeared to be missing the carbs: Then a wee while ago, @SOHC happened upon this old T90 Wolf that he and his friend used to ride around 15+ years ago. He said it would be available, so a deal was struck and I went to collect it over the weekend. It's a quirky wee beast and has some cool features like a seat that hinges backwards - I've never seen this style before. The seat has seen better days and needs a trip to midnight upholstery so @64valiant can work his magic on it. The frame, forks and motor are all bit dirty and there's some corrosion, but it's surprisingly good for a bike that's been sitting for this long. It needs a headlight, indicators, speedo cable (the thread is broken on the underside of the speedo unit) and the forks will need a bit of love to deal with the peeling chrome. I think a strip and re-paint will be good enough for starters. Eventually I'll strip this bike down and give everything a proper clean up. The frame could do with a blast and re-paint, the tank needs a small amount of rust cleaned up and a re-spray. Overall it's a very solid bike though! And runs amazingly well for something that's been sitting in a barn. All it took was a bit of fuel and it fired into life. Jeah! Rare, old, small capacity, 2 stroke, twin cylinder radness. This should be fun.

Off for the final blast, then refit the bonnet, doors and boot lid and then off to paint woohoo

And nearly a year later...... Oil leak finally got to the point of Greenpeace protestors chaining themselves around the car..... Finally got around to setting up the electric winch I brought off @HKM400 ages ago, wish I had one of these since day one, engine removal was a breeze! Turned out the diff mount had been rubbing on the sump leaving quite a hole, once again the lada gods smiled as it also made a reasonable job of blocking the hole. With the engine out I modified the sump to have more clearance and TIGed up the hole in time for a trip to the hills. Always fun taking the Niva up into the snow Also surprising that i've put chains on it twice this year, that doubles the number of times its had chains in my ownership!

We’d decided we were going to tackle 42 traverse. Which was a great choice for a shakedown ride imo. Adventure50 handled it quite well, 4t motor is just lazy and loves being held wide open to bounce up obstacles. Did a few jumps, bashed through a bunch of puddles, and succeeded at most hill climbs (let down by lack of rider skill mostly) apart from the really wet slippery clay ones (like picture) due to lack of tyre grip, as the SR241 trail tyres just clogged up. Cleared instantly though once back onto the more solid bits of the trail. relocating the airfilter into the frame was good, as it increased the wading depth. However we still had to carry/float the bikes across as a section of this was mid thigh deep. Even made it up to see some snow only issue on the day was I lost the exhaust nuts -my fault for not double nutting/using lock nuts. And could go for some firmer front springs as it bottoms out fairly easily. / less bent fork tubes might help too. however we only did 42 one way as on the way back Andrews bike broke and we had to walk it out. So I need to go back to ride it both ways again. #cape

stories from M lyfe. the heater tap started leaking. the heater tap is inside the passengers foot well. like any true M series connoisseur i know it was leaking within seconds of it happening because i smelt it. i knew, instantly, the the M was about to try and fulfill the prophecy of its lineage, and its tradition, and attempt to BHG. but old M masters like myself are made of sterner stuff than that, it'll take a better trick that that old chestnut to bring the prophecy to life. so, i caught it before it had a chance to get hot, no harm done. MS75 heater taps are vacuum operated, incorporate a 90 degree bend in them and just to really make sure there is no way of substituting it with something available its closed with no vacuum. all available vacuum operated taps that i have found are open with no vacuum. there are no taps available that event fit in the space available, let alone have the right vacuum configuration. so ill just have to buy a gates one, cut and weld the vacuum actuator to be on the other side of the lever and put in the engine bay somewhere. if i can stand up for long enough to do that job ill do that tonight. 2019-09-19_07-33-00 by sheepers, on Flickr

oh oh oh i forgot the coolest part. Had our resident PPSC pinstriper do some subtle tank art for it. PENNY PINCHERS SCOOTER CLUB BUY FOR CHEAPS SELL FOR HEAPS

Donkey deep in the swap now. Finished up wiring on weekend, have put a vaporworx pwm set up on the fuel system. It gets fed fuel pressure, MAP, and ecu on off signal and makes the magic happen from there. I reran the fuel line in a 1/2" line, dead headed set up. Trans and engine are in, changed rear stoppers to disc, also changed pinion yoke to 1350 size, it was 1310. Remade all the front brake lines, replaced all ball joints, tie rod ends, basically all the steering/front end stuff is new. Changed the Instrument stuff to a Dakota digital set up that plugs into the Ecu for all the info. Cert check soon !!

2 months later i have all the bits to rebuild the bottom end. the heads are already finished and i have them back. parts, 9 to 1 CR Ross forged pistons (the cunts will not change the value of the parts on the shipping invoice so keep that in mind when deciding to use them or not) eagle H beam rods and ARP rod bolts ARP main cap studs and bolts new genuine Toyota oil pump theres heaps of other shit too but you get the picture. block will now be bored and honed to 88mm. rotating assembly will get balanced and ill get the short block back. then its reassembly time. good days. or maybe not good days. going in to hospital to get back surgery in about a month so that will fuck all progress for a while............... 2019-09-19_07-59-37 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-09-19_07-59-22 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-09-19_07-58-23 by sheepers, on Flickr

One of the things i was busy with was a job interview, and i only bloody got it, so gotta prepare for shifting everything 1400km south So gotta get this thing ready to be transported, or maybe enven driven. So to access the drivers side mans turning it around. It only fired up and drove down the driveway and a lap of my test track, and even did a wee skiddy on the way up the driveway I uncovered this in the rear door in 2017 when i derusted this side. What the hell. There were a few other blebs on the outside and bottom so ive swapped the handles and interior stuff over to another door Its from the 125 i wrecked from Levin, ive used a few panels from it now. Rad stickers and brush painted light blue over midnight blue, actual patina! Fits real good I will repaint the rear quarter, front a-pillar and a couple of other minor primer spots on the body but im not touching the rear door so to the front door i think its more effort fixing the rust (and all the bloody bog and sanding that goes with) in the front and rear lower corners, and elsewhere, and the hinge is a bit worn or bent. so ill swap the interior of this over to the light blue front door to match the rear. It isnt much better shape really, but might fit and close a bit nicer.

I actually like the rude rude as white bonnet look haha. 2pac likes it and that’s all that counts.

Mounting the fuel tank was today's job, got it mostly done, little bit of welding left to do. Fuel filter and pump will go in the spare wheel well and I'll make a cover that goes over the top of the well I need to sort a sealed cap and a spill ring, and an extra fitting on top for a return

So I did the upper ball joints as well.. ..but it wasn't those. The push/pull play at 6 and 12 o'clock was still there. So I looked at how to adjust the wheel bearings.. I was expecting it to be horrible but it was easy, and now the play is gone. Should have done that first. Alas, the vibration is still not quite gone. It's probably just something I have to live with in a British car which has made it all the way to..... 200,000kms. So I got a new obsession instead. The engine doesn't run all that well - it has a random half-stumble at idle and low rpm.. You can see the misfires by watching the shaking of the motor, and although it appears to smooth out if you raise the rpm sufficiently, the higher engine speeds could possibly be disguising the problem. The car has also never really started that well from cold. I checked the spark plugs and they looked amazing to someone who has never owned fuel injection before. I looked for bad connections and vacuum leaks, since the ECU directly reads manifold vacuum (in V12 cars, the ECU is in the boot and its vacuum line has to run the whole length of the car, because why not... ). Nothing stood out though. Several tanks of fuel system cleaning pills didn't help either. Today I took off the airflow meter and cleaned it, and this did make an improvement. The raise in engine speed on startup is more pronounced, and the idle speed seems to have raised slightly which makes the car coast better / makes it not decelerate as aggressively when you lift off the accelerator. But just like my reduced 80kph vibration, the shaky running issue's still detectable. I'll try a compression test and then randomly change every ignition system part, idle valve, fuel pressure regulator and injector before giving up in 6 months from now. The Jag let me know what it thinks of my diagnostic skills:

Not immediately build related but after seeing this stuff article @myk00l ( https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/115722682/worker-to-clean-up-christchurch-hoarder-house-begins ) I managed to get in touch with those involved and a sad sight awaited me. Three 110R wrecks All realistically too far gone to save due to rust, the guy told me they had driven into the site three years earlier but I found that verrry hard to believe. There was also two 120L models (one half converted into a rally car) and one solid looking one that apparently only has ~50,000kms on it before the head gasket blew and it was taken off the road. A guy in Dunedin who I've been in touch with has a 120L that he and his son are doing up but were struggling to find parts (was quoted $2,600 for a windscreen from Smith and Smith!). I managed to save the white 120 and will be taking it to Dunedin this weekend when I go down to pick up the Sabre. It's surprising solid considering it's been of the road for ~ 20 years. Almost don't want to let it go! Would come up good with a proper scrub! Also found a loose half axle sitting in one of the cars that I'm reconditioning to put into the Sabre after the fuckery I endured trying to replace oil seals without the right tools / knowledge. Aim is to have it on the road in time for the Mcleans Island swap meet.

Finally got the sump back on. Remembered that I had another set of bolts when I bought the sump so I cleaned them up.

Front brakes ready to bolt on VJ spindles, new discs with 3mm off the od thanks to @RXFORD, then @RUNAMUCK kindly supplied some wheel studs to replace a couple that got mangled on the way out, reco surf calipers, new wheel bearings, aussie valiant lower ball joints which have a shorter steering arm for more hektik drifts, and repco had some new dust caps

Righto, so ive been driving this to work every day for the last month ir whatever. Hasn't missed a beat. Its fucking slow. Fuck me is it slow but that's not such an issue, it's fucking cool and I like driving it. The front end is a bit all over the show If you have to hit the brakes on the motorway so ive replaced all the bushes. Castor arm bushes and upper inner bushes were completely fucked. Im fairly certain they were original ones. I'll do the back next weekend and put thre disk brake diff in at the same time.

so 1 x generic falcon tap and some cutting and welding and we're back in business. tap is in the engine bay and its fairly ugly but there isn't fuck all i can do about that. 2019-09-19_08-00-10 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-09-19_08-00-03 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-09-19_07-59-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-09-19_07-59-47 by sheepers, on Flickr

Rust repairs and painting gives me the shits, would much rather be doing exciting things... like smokey 11's Anywho, some more progress, back bumper was hiding some gems which needed dealing to.

left that alone for a while, i was in a huff and also busy with other stuff finally gave it a wet sand and filled all the shitty little fisheyes with icing, and put another pretty thinned coat of blue down and it turned out much better pulling off masking tape is the best. then lashings of dinitrol.

My shakedown went well.

sooo we moved into our new pad. i sorta half unpacked my shed and then got the itch to do something motorcycle related. Im taking the GP125 on the Te Uruwera ride, and decided to use it on DGR also, so what better idea is there to completley strip it down 2 weeks before DGR and then have it sandblasted and powdercoated right? bai felicia Got it back from the blasters yesterday and took it straight to powdercoaters after i put sacrificial bolts into all the threads. Hes gunna have it ready next monday maybe so might have to take a day off work next week to smash it together before DGR. Gave the cylinder and head a lick of paint and scraped back the ends of the fins while I was at it. I had all the bits for the '82 Z50R sandblasted at the same time so i can start restoring that for the young fulla now too, excite.

Decided to get off my arse and install the efi, after the last run to hanmer I got sick of the flat spots and rough running.. Got all the gear out to hook it up. Got this far.. Then realised the injector plugs I grabbed from pickapart 5 years ago were wrong and they're for high impendence injectors, so I need to back out and get some others. Also while I'm out there I need a Nissan vg30 tps for the vg30 tb. I also need to buy an Oxy sensor, an ignitor and ballast resistor for the injectors. Speaking of injectors, still haven't been able to find any info on the denso's I have. 195500-0285 is the code if anyone knows.. Bought a new battery today as mine is about 2007 and doing random slow starts..

kinda boring update. hadn't changed the thermostat forever, so thought would try a lower temp one. seen on engine masters they made some more power running cooler water temps, so cant hurt to try.. new one is meant to be 68 degrees. but seems like more like 76 degrees. the stock Toyota one is 82deg and sits bang on that under normal conditions So yep, robbed. as you would expect no change in power, with only a 6 degree difference in water temp. but did confirm what have been seeing with oil temps; 20deg more oil temp is consistently another 3-4kw. that's going from 80deg to 100deg. faster engine is spinning more gains. in other news, some time ago i put a china alternator on it, because cheap. have been fighting broken bolts and alternator brackets for awhile. which i assumed was my crappy bracket that i made too lightweight. turns out old mate was on his 2min lunch break and this alternator skipped the balancing stop on the production line. spinning it up with my impact driver which maybe spins at 2000rpm it wanted to jump out of your hand. so yeh at 20k rpm... note windings held together with string

This evening I removed all the brackets from the TS frame to turn it into a TM frame, I also welded up the pillion footrest mount holes in the swing arm and shortened and bent the rear frame loop up more, frame is ready for blasting and painting. I am going to be lazy and the swing arm and shocks can stay on, I will take it apart after blasting and painting and clean the shit out as I will be replacing the bearings anyway, shocks will go to the scrap.

So yeah, I still own this. it ended up getting a full Brake rebuild, new fuel tank etc and some other odds and ends. I have been daily driving it along with the EB Civic. It ended up getting a part respray on insurance thanks to a young driver that pulled in front of me causing a crash... luckily I know of a few parts cars so the insurance company happily repaired it its currently waiting on me to clean up the surface rust on the back of the new bumper and fit it.

Brake lines sussed, and i got a box of stuff plated too. Also OCD me decided that mint condition inside the rear brake drums is a requirement!!!

Subframe in and it fits like a glove - way bigger deal than it should be since i mocked my front end graft repair with one of the later subframes which doesnt have the correct floor mounts for the earlier type. Need to strip the rest off the yellow shell I have and fit up the brakes next.

Hey everyone, submissions for t'shirt and sticker designs will close on Friday 27th, with judging finishing on Monday 30th. So get those designs in! Or you may just end up with this guy on your chest

Sooo when I was chasing out all the threads I managed to put the wrong pitch M10 tap through one of the bellhousing mount holes. So had to invest in some thread repair kits. OUCH! My wallet. I got an M6 at the same time because there are some stripped threads on the gearbox. ...the gear lever retention plate thing is held down by four M6 bolts and all the holes are stripped.

So @GuyWithAviators and I impulse decided we needed to go on an adventure, Id wrangled a Friday off work so the date was set. I made a seat just to get by. -hand beaten pan and custom duel density foam, and glued that on. Loaded the bike onto the trailer and shot down to meet Andrew.

It was sunny, so I painted... Getting ready for assembly, I need to pull the cones to replace with some better ones I have here. Also, found a set of new shocks that I received from somewhere.... #biwinnning

Bit of the old grease on the top of the IDA filter then lower the bonnet gently down, capturing the initial lower outline of where the cut needs to be. I need to get a couple extra bits to complete this like the thin black trim for the hole edge. My original red bonnet will remain mint so that I can chop and change the look at will. I noticed it was vibrating towards the front at 100km therefore I had a good look at it when I got home. The factors glue holding the frame to the skin was separating. Now we pumped a load of Wurth glue in the areas of concern and it all should be sweet after the glue tacks off.

Pop in for a coffee on your way through. Then take the west coast and have a coffee at 808s place once over the haast pass. Then stop by at crazy Tim's for another coffee. Sorted.

Awesome! I'm hoping to get to a ride or two before the end of the year. Hopefully I get it howling up to the original 68mph (best around the block was 70kph, but it'll get there). Found a headlight and gauge assembly from a T125 for $50. I've bought it and hope it will arrive this week.

So this happened today - purists please look away. I have a spare RX2 s2-3 bonnet that has just been gagging to have an IDA hole cut into it.... this was the result

Gave it a very quick sand and applied some old clear coat I had lying around. Looks like it might work.

Back from holiday so called Stephen again, very friendly guy. Said he thinks this car might might be the one which the Redcross bought new to raffle off in Wellington. He thinks he should have some kind of paperwork. But it will take a while to look through, it was 40 years ago lol. Ask me to call him again in a couple of weeks. Wife has been sick since we got back so haven't had any time the last few days to work on cars, had the kids play on the driveway so I could have a look at the distributor. Thought maybe the points were stuck. Looks like its oxidized, moved ok. Then the boy sprayed the girl with the hose so I didn't look any further.

@Tumeke i got the last 241 in 18" off richard, but im only running it on the fron as they chew out pretty quick on the rear. I brought this shinko 244 (far right) for the GP for this ride, its 18x3.00 but then i stumbled upon the NOS 18x3.00 trials tyre (on the left) which im gunna run in the interest of period correctness. Those 244's are available in a heap of sizes and are good tyres, i run them on my XR. can probs sell you that one if ya want as i likely wont use it now but probs easier for you to grab one local.

What’s wrong with points? A new set and condenser work fine. Cheap, easy, no hassles.

The best thing to use is a head temperature sensor. @peteretep has one on his street magic that works quite well. The thermocouple usually has a little terminal that goes under one of your head bolts and gives you an idea that your motor is running hot. Also taking the time to get a safe tune beforehand makes all the difference. You want it a step or too below the point where it's just too rich.

How long had you been running that filter for? The cold air mixed with not running a factory air box would result in a very very lean mixture. By the way, I reckon you should keep this bike ~100cc.

Nah you just had a dick of a wof guy, they've never been a requirement.

What are you doing this weekend?.. I finished assembling the 139 tonight, It even plugs right into the nifty loom! I just need to repin the starter plug and replace one crimp and its good to go. Next on the list for the nifty is square up the engine mount and figure out a rear shock or hardtail of some description. Currently the front of the motor is right under the old nifty shock mount. I'm starting to pre stretch the tyre with bits of wood in a attempt to make it easier to mount

More a shake off than a shake down?

Only if you mention it in public searchable forums...