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One the plus side I labelled the plugs On the minus side they have mostly faded. Dug out the intake piping, surprisingly well made I thought considering that I did it, but needed a good clean up Inside and out. I don't think I had roloc discs back in the day, they are good for this sort of job. Squirted some good old black zinc inside, will do the outside tomorrow then look at my silicone tube and clamp supplies. IIRC the radiator needs to go in first.

So because I have a big job to finish at the moment and am under immense time pressure, I got distracted and had a fiddle in the shed after staying up late last night doing research. This is my 2TG pile. First I had a fiddle with throttle bodies and TPSs. On the left is a TVIS Redtop 4age throttle body and on the right is the 2tg one. The 4age has a potentiometer TPS vs the switch type of the 2TG The 4age inlet manifold is on the left, and the 2TG one is on the right. The bolts are the same width apart, but the 2TG ones have a smaller spacing vertically. There is also a 10mm difference in size between the two TB holes. The nerd that can't weld alloy in me has been working out how to design a bolt-on adapter plate to bolt the 4age throttle to the 2TG inlet, but the logical option is probably to make a weld-on plate that the 4age throttle bolts to. We looked into switching the TPS over, but swapping the whole throttle seems to be less fiddly and results in a bigger throttle, and bigger is better right? The next little mission was trigger wheels. We searched through the shed for old Toyota distributors and found an AE101 5AFE one and a Blacktop 4AGE one. I pulled them both apart and decided the 4AGE one on the right was a simpler setup, but will take them both to Max and see what he thinks. I've read about how ideally you want to run your trigger on the crank due to distributor slop etc, but this seems a whole lot less ugly. Hopefully, we can drop these guts into the 2TG distributor and get a cam and crank signal off it. It will be easy right? (This is what people say when they come to me for website things that don't turn out to be easy). I've found this discussion https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=495&start=100 that relates to a 3SGTE that seems to use the same style of trigger wheels.

If anybody is going to call @yoeddynz a cunt then I'd appreciate it if you put the word rad in front of it. His embarrassingly lame MS paint drawing dumbing it down to my level worked and I now have a proper shift pattern. Happy days.

I took it for a lap of the cul-de-sac, made a couple of wee adjustments. Tuned the idle a wee bit, and then rode it to work. Had to hide out at a mates workshop to escape a rain shower, but i made it. It comfortably does 55km/h on the flat. Its otherwise quite slow haha. The tires are a little larger than the originals and the rear is rubbing on the screws for the little mud flap, so I'll whip that off for the trip home and get some countersunk ones.

It’s been awhile since I built a hot rod. my last one was a ford pop that was chopped 3 inches and channelled 4 inches running a 302 Cleveland. i ran it in black primer for awhile and sold it to a guy in Aussie who painted and upholstered it.

Got some paint on them and baked it with the heater for a while Good thing I have some photos from when I took it apart 7 years ago to refer back to for what goes where. Got one side done, looks better with the pipes painted I must say. Had to stop and tidy up the work area as we have a couple of house viewings tomorrow. I don't usually tidy up until either the stage of the project is finished, or I can't find what I need.

I've registered, for both the event and the sigma.

Entry form is now available. Get involved

While I've got the underside of the car right in my face, I've been using the hammer to close up any gappy seams and straightening edges. Because I can. The seam at the front end of the sills were a bit squashed from jacking so I knocked and pried them back into shape. While doing that I noticed some pinholes in the flat panel that joins the bottom of the front wing to the seam on the bottom of the sill. I decided to remove that panel. It's basically an 'L' shape so real easy to make a new one.(I've made the new ones using slightly thicker metal) The drivers side sill end was quite pitted under that flat panel because debris gets stuck between them. I cut that out too, it's also flat. It was in AMAZINGLY rust free condition in there. It seemed to be evenly coated with a dark grey primer, this shell must have been dunked in a vat of this primer at the factory for it to be in there. Just for good measure I flooded it with Zinc primer. I did the passenger side too, just to check it was in even better condition. A little pitting, but no pinholes. I tried to take a photo inside but my phone didn't want to use the flash.

You didnt tag me but im working on getting it past financial controller

Threw some brass and beeswax on the drawbar. Put some big brass screws through the 2 sections, I knew I was saving those for something. I think it looks suitably vintage

But then I got it out of the shed!

Dad's cousin married Max, who has always been our family mechanic and panel beater. He's somewhere north of 70 and a full-time menace and tinkerer. This is his Ke70 wagon that he bought off @Dudley (also a fill-time menace) and proceeded to rebuild half the body of before painting it and tidying allll the things. He got bored one day and had a 2TGEU sitting around that he'd got in exchange for putting a 4age into someone's wagon years ago. The loom had been chopped in half, and being older than fuel injection he thought it was a great idea to replace the injection with twin carbs. Yesterday my brother called me and said "Max has been talking to Pete's friend who built himself an ECU for his car and tuned it himself. He reckons you should be able to do it." Approximately 24 hours later I have all of the EFI gear from the Corolla sitting on the floor in the shed and have read half of the information on the internet about the Speeduino. I've been given a generous (for a Speediuno build) budget to work with and told to get ordering. I've printed out the 2T wiring diagram which is comical after dealing with 1UZ diagrams and am starting to make a plan. So far the shopping list (other than the ECU) includes: IAT sensor (probably a Toyota one) Map sensor (also probably a Toyota one) (so I don't have to run a vacuum line all the way to the ECU and can just run it off the AFM wiring) TPS (maybe 4age as we have a couple of motors sitting around) A wideband, probably Spartan 3 I'm leaning toward either one of these https://www.everythingfuelinjection.com/store/The-Micro-p161480124 https://kiwiefi.nz/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=54 Feel free to tell me in the discussion how far over my head I am. I've wired a 4age, a B16a, an SR20VE, a 1uz and a 3uz and used to do car alarms, so pretending I know what I'm doing.

Bags not the A-class

I have registered and paid.... forgot to put a reference but name on form and bank are the same... Also put my preferred car but that might not be an option... see earlier comment about taking the daily lol. See yall there.

@MightyJoe @yoeddynz @smokin'joe @Chris.QCR @Hannah @Willdat? @Truenotch @Valiant @ajg193 @Sungai Sungai @DRAD1Stylez @EpochNZ @sidewaysickness @datto_610 @igor @SwayBlack @NickJ @nzstato @azzar @Mof @Leone @yetchh @giddaymate @dr.wylde The entry form is up, i beseech ye all to fill in the entry form, and pay the man. Luv you long time

Hopefully turn it into something like this.

I got the charcoal bonnet off a mate who wasn't guna use it i thought it would be funny to put a k&n out the hole just to keep people guessing (nearly got to race in n/a class at summer drags a few years back)

Some years later, seems i have a solution. if it doesn't break; I ended up making the gearbox better replacing a lot of parts, but was never amazing at high rpm. had to shift pretty slow so didn't grind. recently tried some thinner mt-lv redline oil, in an attempt to get the syncro's to grip some more. Yeah it made it worse over the castrol vmx. After sifting through the internet and finding not much other than the old grind some teeth off the synchro. Found a comment saying something along the lines of; "putting double springs in the selector may help with high rpm changes" The spring being what red arrow is pointing at below. Yeah you cant put 2 in there, but some have a coil spring the sits in the middle of the hub so maybe that's what they meant. After looking how it actually works, rather than just replacing parts. The spring presses up against the little keys in green. they have a raised section that sits in a recess in the selector hub(outer part) Now when you go to change gears the selector hub pushes the 3 keys up against synchro ring, which pushes the synchro ring onto the cone, slowing the gearbox down. Until you put enough pressure on the shifter/selector hub, the selector hub cams over the keys and selects the gear. So having a stronger spring on the keys will put more force on the synchro ring before it trys to select the gear. which means it should slow the gearbox down more before it tries to change gears, cool. Will it work who knows. sifting though my pile of gearbox parts I found some bearing retainer spring clips that would work for 1/2 gears. 3rd/4th found some that would work out of some hilux front hubs I dont have any pictures of what it looked like once i modified it them. but ground them down to similar shape as the factor ones as above, just thicker, so more spring pressure. I ground a few teeth off some of the synchro rings also, but i dont this would have changed things much. All this went into my spare t50, with the best selection of 2nd hand junk i could find. So worse base than the one in the car. Result. It amazingly works, can throw it through the gears at 10k easy, haven't been super rough with it yet, but changing pretty fast no crunches, changes nice. only side effect, is its a bit more notchy selecting gears, but not terrible at all. I even used the same oil that come out of the gearbox in the car, for a fair test.

I got the viva all ready to run through final compliance and a hot Rodder friend offered me a couple of old ford Ys at the same time and I’ve always wanted to build another hot rod so had to make a decision. The vivas gone to a great home so made the sale a lot easier for me. I need to learn how to chop a roof and am excited for the challenge.

Of course you can sweetie. I've got a few spare cars that are all legal for then. And will no doubt have more by then.

wow, massive chub forming for this. in the words of sumpson, registered like a sex offender. hey @DoBro Jesus me and markku would be very keen on enquiring if any of the wounders fleet would be available to make this a more interesting trip. you can ask Als mum for a reference on how i treat other dudes rides

I live on a very loose shingle beach, all manner of 4x4s get stuck here all the time. We have a basher SWB V6 Escudo on 33x10s for beach duties, it does well but its a turd grubby thing and I want to replace it. W163 is pretty high up the list for replacements as I am a Benz foamer. So, what are they like on the loose stuff? I worry about buying a 2 ton 4x4 and it not being usable here. I'd probably stick some 315/75R16 all terrains on the stock rims and lift as required for clearance. Doit?

Probably should have them, because of bias ply Hoosiers on the back, but when those are worn out I might try some drag radials , so would need a radial on the front

The last stretch to finishing this hasn't been without drama of course. I seem to have chosen the wrong model when buying parts from IMPEX. i.e "Its the square headlight model" *orders the square headlight from IMPEX* FUCK IT. "Oil tank cap is broken" *orders oil tank cap from IMPEX* MOTHER FUCKER. (Luckily the lid off a tin of thinners kind of nearly fits) The next issue was, that after I ran it up in the video above, I took off to work... and then in the afternoon got a text from a grumpy wife because the entire house stunk of petrol... Turns out the rubber gasket on the fuel petcock doesn't seal any more, so I've made a paper gasket which seems to be doing the trick for now.

There are things to learn before you commit, I really should update this thread properly with the gl tales. I would say if you don't mind spannering your own vehicles (you are on os clearly...) they are really coming into quite good value for money territory compared to anything suitably capable/comparable. I think this is what scares people most about owning Mercs is they hear horror stories of repair bills. But that's from people who don't know which end of a hammer to use.. Cost of parts is pretty reasonable through rockauto. I've done more than I expected to due to buying a less than mint example, had I have been a bit more patient I would have brought better with probably a bit lower KMs (brought at 210, now around 232 in 9mths) Hasn't let me down. Is a very easy car to live with, plenty of grunt and good on juice.

Cube speed shortshifter

Will do some reshaping to the rimu drawbar once the glue sets, and make some kind of hook set up. I have an eye bolt mounted to the back of the trike. Also painted the tray, will probably rivet it on using the original brackets. Painted the white part just before it ruined heavily, so it's not very nice. Oops. Might line it with some wood or something nice rather than paint again

Real soon? Well, the pieces were with SGS for a year or so due to delays on both sides (mostly mine) but I got them back with the requisite paperwork so that's good. Then they sat around another few months getting rusty again, so they went back in the molasses tank. I made an effort over Easter to deal with all the rusty / cleaned up bits and pieces around the garage. Things flash rust really quickly when taken out of the molasses tank. Lift makes a handy hanging rack. Couple of coats of Durepox should keep things tidy for the next few years. I intend to get some new lower balljoints and assemble the front suspension (at least) so I can move the thing around. Next update in 2+ years.

Pulled the leaking valve cover, misplaced gasket would be why it was so bad Nothing to see here. Ever get the feeling that your new parts (on the left) aren't as good as the old parts? I think I'll hang on to the old cap, even though it's a bit damaged. Might see if there is a more $$$ option on Rockauto next time I order.

Sunset at 5:45. Bromantic

Ahh ive always wondered what the point of those drag specific front tyres was. (For rwd)

I have just now hit submit on the entry from. See you all there.

Used a D shackle and a pin from a door hinge out of a 1930s bungalow. Will attach it with a bit of sink plug chain or something sonic doesn't get lost

I still hear waylon jennings good old boys when i see that airbourne picture.

Sounds like a hoot. Here's a couple of pics for potential purchasers. This thing really Flys.

Yeah my stock V50 goes great, speedo reckons I get up to 65ish on the flat and has no problem keeping up with urban traffic which is perfect for commuting/pub and general residential pesting. I have approximately zero interest in lifan (2 strokes 2 many!) but am keeping an eye out for a V70/90 or a PW80 donk to bolt in. I really need to update my thread with some V50 pics and miscellaneous tales of woe...

Went to pickapart and replaced the missing air bleed hoses. Fixed a few other coolant leaks. Now it's good. Bought a big syringe pump thing to fill the gearbox with oil, managed to do this notoriously messy job without spilling a single drop of gearbox oil! Miracle! Until I realized that the drain plug wasnt screwed in properly, and itwas on an angle - so I had to undo it and quickly straighten it and tighten it up. So gearbox oil everywhere still. Damnit, haha. Then I think I've still got some fairly massive air leaks, I dont have any gaskets or sealants at the moment so I'll pull it all apart and sort that a bit better. I managed to get it idling at around 1000rpm, but only because I've leaned out the fuel table so much. Again an easy fix, just time consuming. Then another cool milestone, and to be honest something I was dreading a bit - testing the clutch. Everything's good! I drove the car forward about a meter, then reverse about a meter. Which is officially the furthest it's propelled itself in about 6 or 7 years. It's still ear splittingly loud, and dear god it sounds like a straight piped RB or something dreadful currently. Ugh. Will buy some mufflers this week if I can, so I can keep making some progress without making my brain bleed. Then also have enough of an exhaust on there that I'll be getting okay readings on the wideband. Small steps but all in the right direction currently. nother

Bit of a bitter sweet update. After the last monthly meet the 2l decided to run a bearing on the way home leave me stranded on the side of the motorway. I managed to source a gamble na 1600 motor of a friend so whipped that in and after the legend himself @RUNAMUCK worked his wizardry swapping out the dizzy and timing the motor up I was back in business again . Have taken it for a wee drive around the block and the motor seems to be happy enough. Old water pump was shot so picked up another and slammed it in. Oil change and some new plugs and hopefully it's smooth sailing from here on in I also put some guard mirrors on it. Damn they're useless but they look the part

The steel wheels on it are very heavy. When it did its quickest time it had some very light cragar super tricks on the front. They were popular in the 70s but the internet reckons there's not many around these days because they were prone to failure. I bought them ages ago from a guy who took them off his car because they made creaking noises when doing tight turns, they were very cheap. They weigh as much as a bag of chips and are a bit sketchy, also the tyres were right on the limit speed rating and load rating wise. Plus I had to run a 5mm spacer which I did not like. I only did 2x passes with them on and didn't like it So I've had my eye out for a second set of wheels suitable for drag racing Being an impressionable teenager in the 90s who read street machine magazine a lot I've always wanted a set of weld draglites. They don't come up often second hand, I found a set a while ago but they were not wide enough. You can still buy them new but they are pricey Picked these up today, 15x5 and 15x8. Tried them on then got the tyres off, they are very fucked. They need a polish but should tidy up well Anybody know a good polishing place in south auckland?

Then I painted it red because that's the first tin of colour I pulled out of the cupboard.

Found the misfire. This was after I took the injectors out and had them clean and flow tested, new filters and seals. $175 later in platinum plugs

Lets see Muffler replaced, I left the other side there as it didn't look too bad Pulled the door trim off to put a speed nut on the self tapper holding the wing mirror Got some Rock Auto Looked at a grotty engine

You can talk, I turned up in a Golf last time...

I will bring random people like usual.

Gotcha ta. I made a new list of what needs to be done before LVV and added it to the bottom. I'm going to try and book in over the next few days to give me a deadline. Right after I swap this perfectly serviceable ball joint for an inferior Chinese one which in my experience has a 25% failure rate during install.

Made it up to Waihi Beach the Whangamata OK. Parked near the beach, and then in the slamfest on Saturday (bit damp that day). New paint is a big improvement.

A bit over 6 years since it came apart. I bolted the front suspension back together without many dramas Put the steering back in Enlisted a helper to tighten up the caliper mounts And moved it! Out of the garage then winched back onto the lift. Will drop the engine/box back in before fagnats hopefully.

Annual-ish update? I need to get this at least rolling to move it. Bought some new lower ball joints - I think the reason the old ones crapped out is that the come with no grease in them (facepalm) Managed to break a 1" chinese cast press plate using my 10 ton chinese press when trying to get the second one together. It was a bit out of alignment, so probably exceeded the point loading. Visited a friend to straighten up the press tool, then used his press to jam it together. Went in easily. Hope I can remember what goes where, it's been a few years