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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/10/20 in Posts

  1. Unpicked chassis rails and straightened them up on both sides, floor hammered back up into shape too as it looked like it had been bottomed out or jacked up a few times. split both the bonnet and boot lids to repair them, both have been acid dipped since, along with the front guards. both doors have been blasted around the rear frame, and I hand stripped the outsides. - no pics basically the whole car has been bare metaled and epoxied at this point , and minor repairs have been carried out around various areas of the car The next post I make is where the fun (headache) really starts!
    19 points
  2. Spent the day refitting parts that I don't think will get in the way of fixing the clear coat defects. Really starting to love how this car is looking now.
    16 points
  3. 13 points
  4. Its the fuel flow sensor from a ZT Driving computer, '80's tech at it best (they worked well) I was surprised I could find mine. You may also find these magnets and this pickup coil on the drive shaft for the speed input. The fuel flow unit had a tendency to block.
    8 points
  5. Most of you know the rear door handles are missing thanks to some yank in the early 2000s. Check out the sweet hole filling. I will leave it as is for now incase I decide to find and fit some handles. The brown is the factory sound deadening stuff. Inside the door is pretty solid except for those two spots.
    7 points
  6. A little trick I have used on a borderline hard to start car it to use a set of toasty hot sparkplugs from another car that's just been running / the oven.
    7 points
  7. man what a bitch this has been to do over self isolation time. a second pair of hands would had been extremely helpful today cant wait to get the front all sorted and get it on the ground. just assembling it to get it to the new shop. once it is here ill make new break lines and go over everything else. make sure she is ready to go.
    7 points
  8. So with Eastcapescapade 2.0 looming quickly I decided I needed a reliable lump to power this. Grabbed a new 125 semi auto Lifan from Shore50. And had some DrATV lower engine mount adapters in stock leftover from the 67 Honda build. Were handy to have but needed bending to fit properly - knowing what I know now I'd make my own or redrill the frame next time. Used a Honda intake manifold to get the carb to mate up to the 90's airbox. Had to drill out the intake in the rear rack with a step drill bit to get more air into it though. Did some endurance testing and daily rode it for a bit. Lifan life was great. My exhaust I made for the ATC fit this well. I also used a Trail tech regulator for lighting this time around, getting rid of the battery. Then Eastcape ride happened. Bike went really well, kept up with the pack pretty good. Although it was using lots of oil... later realised I never took the cap off the breather on top of the motor lol. Oil was seeping past the base cylinder gasket and past the valves too, was smokey. Start of the Motu Road Rere Falls with @Shakotom FR140 and @MopedNZ's 62 Honda also 125 powered (manual) Top of a back road forestery road in Gisborne. But then at the end of the second day pulling into Hick's Bay my ehxuast broke where I'd welded the header on - made for a loud ride for the last few KM. And also the rear wheel kinda broke.. half the spokes became really loose and some broke. No way of fixing that to be safe enough for the rest of the ride. So I jumped on @chris r's GN125 he crashed that morning. Jammed the front wheel inbetween a tree to straighten the forks, bled the brakes so they kind of worked. Ripped off the remains of the tacho and speedo. Replaced some missing nuts and bolts others had taken for running repairs that day. Taped in the headlight - job done. Was actually a good bike for the last day. Kept up with the 140cc bikes really well. Was on limiter between every gear change. The engine knock went away eventually. Oh it was also dereg and I had no motorbike license. But coast life no dramas.
    6 points
  9. Sanded and re polished the copper pipe work today. About 4 hours work there. I was lazy and only did the visible side too
    6 points
  10. Repairs went well, two lazy days blocking and sanding with really limited supplies, I’m Stoked to report that it’s all rubbed back and paint will fly this weekend! Sorry the photos are so random
    6 points
  11. A couple of patch repairs here, speaker holes, seat mount, bottom of A-pillar, and the random cut in sill, with bonus golf ball found inside
    6 points
  12. This guy! Bloody hell I cant believe someone can trim the edge of carbon that nicely. Then align it too. Amazing.
    5 points
  13. Also made it into the paper lols. After Eastcape I robbed the Lifan 125 for another project. Then it sat around for months and I eventually sold it. If the frame wasn't so rusty I'd have kept it but I'd also recently aquired another yellow Yamaha Adventure bike I wanted to focus on. So out the door it went. But I still have the ATC125M engine - sitting under the bench for a one day project. Needs rings though, which are NLA although TRX125 quad are apparently the same... Here's a couple of vids of rides I took this bike on. Was a great intro to 4 stroke Honda small bike life.
    4 points
  14. Oh yeah, should finish up the CT90 story. With the 90cc motor dying I was keen to upgrade it so tracked down an ATC125M - yeah the trike. Came up from @Raizer in Gisborne to Tauranga thanks to @Shakotom. It lived in @MopedNZ's mothers back shed for a few weeks until I had a day off to do something about it. I trucked my CT90 down and pulled all the bits off the trike I'd need, then offered the big block up to my 90 frame. Bolts in, just tight around the swingarm and sub-transmission, also the stock foot pegs don't work with pull start. Left the trike carcass in Tauranga and some piner took it away to build up with a Lifan I think. Took my CT125 back to Auckland and got a chain attacthed and had it ridable but uh oh... lots of false neutrals and such. Where have I seen this before.. Yep, the infamous shifter arm issue. But this time instead of just breaking the arm it actually broke the casting of the casing where it bolts on. So I sent the casing away to be tig welded and took the brand new shifter arm from my old 90 engine that I'd already replaced. Got a new gasket set and cleaned the whole motor up while I had the cases split. First time taking one of these Honda lumps this far apart - managed to get it back together though. Used new stainless cap screws (and copper coat on the threads) too.
    4 points
  15. Finished off the rest of the electrics and fired it right up. Did a spanner check and tightened up all the remaining lose bolts. Finally finished!
    4 points
  16. Thanks for that, now i have a spare one!
    4 points
  17. Next scabs to pick we’re on the bottom corners of left rear door. Cut some holes and made some squares. I got a bit keen and things git a bit hot and warped, but managed to tap it flat again. Remember I’m new to this. When grinding down the rear patch I found another thin spot and needed to put a bit more in.
    4 points
  18. Bit more testing today, tried blasting carb cleaner through all the passages but didn't seem like any where blocked and didn't make a difference. Took out a spark plug to test for spark, nothing. Tested the lead and getting spark when held close to the engine. Tried connecting the lead without the old lead-ends jammed on (was just to hold the stripped lead core onto the spark plug) and used electrical tape to hold it onto the spark plug. Again this is just to see if there is any life in it. I'm not normally this cheap lol. Now I can see a spark on the spark plug itself. Maybe the old plug lead ends were causing resistance or something? Did this to all 4 and tried again. Still not firing. Took plugs out again, broke one spark plug....taped it back together lol... and squirted a little fuel into each cylinder. Tried again and now it almost fired again. I think that is convincing enough for me to spend a bit of money on some leads and maybe a new coil and distributor. Maybe an electronic ignition conversion? I then did a compression test since it seems to be turning over pretty well now. Remember this thing was basically seized and I had to use a power bar to get it to turn! My compression tester has always read pretty low but I was amazed to see decent compression numbers and it is obviously dead cold. Three cylinders are 120psi and one is 140psi, not ideal but bloody amazing considering its history. I reckon if I can get it started and hot it will improve, probably not a huge amount but getting some heat cycles through it wouldn't hurt.
    4 points
  19. Jammed the big block back into the bike. Had some issues with the electrics, couldn't get consistent spark. Turns out the kill switch was shorting out inside the handle bars. So I remade the loom and put a 12v battery and relay in for the electric start - was quite lush tbh. Although pull start was hilarious. Trimmed the swingarm to clear the dual range transmission a bit better and also added longer rear shocks from a CT125 farm bike - same as XL125 I think. I also made some foot pegs to suit the wider case. Made this video with a pitbike exhuast and muffler on it. Then I moved to Tauranga and had a better garage to work on things. So in between helping Callum with his green 62 Honda build I made an exhaust for this out of the pitbike header and og Honda muffler. Also note the new seat cover from Midnight Upholstery, won that in a Facebook competition. Comfy. Rode it around a bit, went really well. Low range was hilarious and did instant wheelies anywhere. But the motor was pumping lots of oil out of the breather on top of the motor. Like it would soak your boot in oil after a few mins.
    3 points
  20. It's even an essential item. How bout that
    3 points
  21. One side done for now. Pitman arm is on. Looks lots tidier now at least.
    3 points
  22. 3 points
  23. Managed to get the recaro seats mounted today, didnt take much just original L200 rails, drill one hole on each rail to mount them. Feels so much more comfortable. Still need to rivnut one hole by tunnel for each seat but cant do that until after lockdown
    3 points
  24. With those being ‘done’, I dug another FR50 frame out of my stash and bought it home to make a start on. I need another two stroke scooter to keep the balance in the shed right. stay tuned.
    3 points
  25. Literally the day after selling the clone Z50, I got a message from a mate -Hey I’ve got a rough Z50J sitting here that I only bought for the motor, wanna buy the rolling frame? Slept on it for the night and thought ah, it’s an actual Honda Z50, let’s do it properly this time. Got it home, and assembled it to a rolling frame. Put it in the corner of the shed while I placed a couple of orders for various bits and pieces and waited for them to turn up. then assembled. Ended up with backdated 4L tank, 8x3.50 alloy wheels, undercowl, alloy foot peg covers, Windsheild, lowering the suspension a bunch, fork brace to lower the front guard, OEM style tail light and frame extension. Fairly happy with how this has turned out this time, and it’s at about as far as I can get it during this lockdown. - need access to a welder/vice to make rear indicator mounts. Keyring Details.
    3 points
  26. The clears a bit of a disaster really and reasonably gutted, so many things I'd have done differently in hindsight. But it's done. Drove it into the sun yesterday and it's not all bad news.
    3 points
  27. This is the first time I have done panel work. I am pretty happy with how it turned out. Tell me I’m doing it wrong here:
    3 points
  28. Then BOOM! I was happy with the results - not sure it would last long as its though the hardening on some of the gears and really needs new bearings (complete sets are only $35). I don't have enough bits to put it in anything right now, but maybe someday to see what happens.
    2 points
  29. I realised I hadn't updated this in awhile.. Not much has changed really. My GB's tank was poked, the seams leaked so I picked up a new one which was internally mint but externally a bit fooked. I fixed the dents, Por15'd the crap out of the inside to avoid leaking in this one, painted it myself in a glossy winter grey and added some cool racing stripes for additional HP. Pretty happy with how the colour turned out with the stripes.. Went for that same colourway with gloss black and matt black. Just need to put the drivers side mirror on and it's ready for a warrant check after lock down.. It might be time to flick this one off.. I also picked up a GD250n that had a blown motor.. Got a new motor in it and did a tail tidy.. It had problems with the TPS which I got fixed and went for a WOF. Failed on brakes and fork seals.. Replaced those/got them fixed and rode to work a few times before the mrs decided she liked the look of it and started to ride it Shes hapu so her riding days are over for awhile so this will be going up for sale once lock down is over. A couple months before lock down I nabbed another GN250 that I couldn't pass up on. I intend to fix and flip this. Needed some love/work. The electics were on the piss, the brakes were shot, fork seals were well and truly shot and was just lacking.. well, basic maintenance. Ordered a bunch of parts and it sat in the shed until I could find time to do anything about it.. Low and behold, had some time over the last couple of weeks to tinker with it. This was the state of arrival.. After new brakes, spoke wheels, new bars, new grips, re shaped seat, wiring all sorted, and a whole lot of elbow grease and love.. this is how it looks After lock down i'll go for a warrant check, fix whats required if anything is required (seems OK to me) and flick it off.. The red Hyo is in the shop for a WOF.. It failed on tyres and exhaust had a hole in it, so that's locked up at a workshop currently not being worked on which is all good. Thats really it I guess..
    2 points
  30. On to more recent related happenings, during this lockdown I decided I needed a bit of a challenge, so I retrieved off the scrap pile the OG motor from the deluxe. It had been carefully stored outside in the rain for the last two years - after 20 or so before that under a hedge somewhere. Needless to say it did not turn over (not even a little bit) I the challenge was to get it running without any new parts. Below is the story of that = sorry very picture heavy! There was a nice tide mark! Clutch cover off
    2 points
  31. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/accessories/listing-2595956024.htm?rsqid=e53d334fdec84c6d838f1705684580df-001 are you sure
    2 points
  32. Mostly to bare metal. Didn't get any pics of it just before paint unfortunately, here is about 90% stripped.
    2 points
  33. So mounted the basket wich I think super dope. And used some of the front guard that i had to cut to cover the gap under the light. Gave it some rear breaks wich work ok. And mounted some foot pegs further back. With floor bord still there. Just for a more better position. Gona make a cover for the gap under neathe the seat. And paint the rear panels blue. Or many repaint the whole bike. And wheels.
    2 points
  34. 1, I had the hood laying on the lawn out of the way, he wasnt watching where he was going. 2, nope, he was nearly twice my weight LOL 3, yup, he has to bend over to get through doors. And yes, from my experience a glass part has to be considerably thicker. My suggestion is to get some glass and some cf and start playing around. You need to fool around for a bit before committing to a big part anyway. Ali express cf is great.
    2 points
  35. Fuck I was super stoked when my package arrived from the USA under lock down.... FUCK!!!! So I ordered 12x1.25mm Wheel Studs. They sent 14mm Wheel Studs. Fuck. Fuck Fuck. Fuck. I swear, I am cursed with incorrect parts. Life as a mechanic has been painful, daily battles with Repco and BNT and parts departments. Waiting for urgent parts that only turn out to be incorrect, not what I asked for or even put into the wrong box. Just dumb shit. Anyway it's safe to say I've developed a complex and this shit kept me from making any progress in the shed today. (Just went and sulked instead) Sent them photo's etc etc, but seeing that it's the USA, I can't see it being sorted anytime soon, let alone at all. Rant over.
    2 points
  36. Since then I have been riding it when I can and have done over 1500 K on it now. A couple of trips out with the wife. Also got worried about the state of the OG wheels so built my self some new ones.
    2 points
  37. Continued from previous. Another protracted battle then followed with more nuts and bolts. There is a sill trim that runs along the bottom of the cab that is in two sections. A short section attached to the lower rear cab and a long section that runs along under the door, and ends at the rear of the front wheel arch. These trims are thin aluminium and were already quite wrinkly. Removing them has destroyed them. They would be quite easy to remove if the bolts weren’t rusty and seized, but the brackets are quite flimsy and will not stand up to high torque situations. Finally, having extracted all the bolts, the rear cab lower half lifts away, and is a bit awkward to remove without a helper, as it is a decent weight, and the galvanised sill frame now has no rear support, so you can’t put weight on them. It’s a good thing Land Rovers are not fast, the seat belt mounts don’t look like much. But hey, there’s a sticker that says they are approved by Her Majesty so they must be OK. Factory toolkit: Exploratory choppy-chop. To be fair the end caps were just about weet bix anyway Til next time
    2 points
  38. Oh my Lordy. Made some plates with the intention of plug welding them to the firewall. Got stuck in to the welding which was quite fiddly under the dash. Was smoking a bit and got to the point where the smoke was a bit worrying, so hunted round to find source and sure enough, fire! Couldn’t find it but could see orange glow. Went into full panic mode and ripped inner guard liner off to find the fire on foam attached to back of firewall. Put it out but I think it took a few years off my life. Anyway bolted pedal up and it’s not in a great position. When you hit brake pedal the side of your shoe catches the throttle. Will be great for heel/toe but maybe also bad for doing an Audi5000 and jamming on the throttle while panic braking. I think moving the go pedal back toward firewall and across to the right a little bit might fix it, but I’ll do a test drive before I make changes.
    2 points
  39. Have wanted a Mizuno Works wooden shifter for a long time but decided it was money better spent elsewhere for now and made one. I had some kauri or rimu? recently machined for a furniture project that I ripped into 30x30mm strips 250mm long. I planed the corners off to get as close to round as possible before centre drilling- apparently not- the base out to 12mm and winding in a m12x1.25 bolt with hex head cut off and put the cut off end into my cordless drill It took 3 attempts to get one usable due to drilling the first one wayyy off centre and in a straight line and splitting the second. Ended up with 185mmx22mm finished size and have just applied some linseed oil which is a fairly close match to my steering wheel. Wanted to put the other half of my factory stereo back in but seem to have misplaced it so swapped out the silver cassette bottom half for a pocket instead. The black ties in with rest of interior better than the silver anyhow. My only other plan for interior is to have a leather shifter boot manufactured. Sadly the place who did my last one has caught fire back in October and doesnt look to be reopening
    2 points
  40. Some of the UK readers of this forum may have already see this episode of car SOS- its a goody. The Imp they restore is like Hannah's first classic car , a 1974 Imp super painted in Prairie wind. A little car we enjoyed immensely and what made me always want another... The episode can be watched here.... https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7t30c3
    2 points
  41. pulled the pin yesterday and painted the exterior. the basecoat went down beautifully. but i really made a hash of the clearcoat. quite alot of sags, and in hindsight, the lighting in the garage was shit so i couldnt see them forming and i think i was holding the gun too close. really took the fun out of it, however all it means is a bunch more colour sanding which ill tackle in a while once its gone nice and hard. on the plus side, the thing looks dead straight, really happy with the sanding job. have un masked it, which was a tour of all my fuckups, but ultimately itll come up awesome. the colour is amazing and i cant wait to see it in the sun.
    2 points
  42. The eagle eyed amongst you will notice the hub and spindle is still covered in O.E rust, dust and grease. I am getting some later model units to go on with vented brakes. Just need to wait until after the lockdown to collect.
    1 point
  43. Okay, my first attempt at installing a remote oil filter/cooler was in risk of getting a friendly love slap from the drive belt. It looked okay and ticked most boxes, but its placement put the hoses way to close to the rear belt...as in pretty much on it with only 5mm gap, so on deceleration it could slap the oil lines, which would not be good. So I made V1.2: But I wasn't in love with it. It seemed a bit back to front to me. Plus the aluminum was a bit thin and I wasn't too sure about its resistance to fatiguing? So on to V1.3: And I'm calling it a win. It now has the maximum amount of clearance required and still sits outside of the frame, so when I dump the oil...it wont spill all over the nice bits. Here's V1.0 and 1.2 about to be archived:
    1 point
  44. Mostly strip disc on the grinder. Used a wire brush attachment for the grinder and drill to get some of the bits round the seams. Manual sanding with 80 grit for the rest. No worries mate, I'll probably have heaps of questions when it comes to reassembling it!
    1 point
  45. So got bord and painted the tank and rear fender and exhausts. Havnt put on the sisy bar as of yet want too make it better. But likening it without it hmhm. After all the tidying up a couple rides. And the startermotor craped out hahha oh well in lockdown anyway..
    1 point
  46. 1 point
  47. everyone loves a bit of diamond plate. I spent ages drawing stuff attempting basic maths, thought i had everything worked out right. Then after I cut the plate I released it was shorter than I had planned. I dummied up the nixies and it'll work out with reduced spacing Used all the tubing I had and one bit short Failed at brazing so soldered it (poorly). it stuck well enough to survive a drop off the bench as I didn't let it cool down enough. I'll finish it off when I get some more tube
    1 point
  48. They started off looking like this!
    1 point
  49. This thread has inspired me to dip my toe into the world of composites.. (please don't use any of the below as advise just observations from a noob) First attempt on a headlight mould to make more headlightly type things for my pos racecar.. no idea if I'm doing it right.. or if it will release properly.. if it does the next step will be to use the mould to produce a headlight blank. If it doesn't I'll need to figure out why and try again. . Made an edge barrier out of junk, cleaned sanded, cleaned etc.. Laid down 7 coats of wax -/ mould release. 2 coats of PVA. 1 coat of moulding Gel coat, next time I will use a bit less than 2% catalyst as even on a small thing like this I ended up in a hurry. 2 layers of 200g cloth. 2 layers of 225 chopped strand 1 layer 450g chopped strand. (No idea if that will be strong enough) What I noted is that working the cloth required scissors to get it to shape nicely whereas the chopped strand behaved better when pulled apart.. When the mat wasn't behaving more resin seemed to help. The little roller thing I purchased isn't much good dabbing with a brush was the successful method. Be prepared to go through a fair few brushes and mixing cups etc and set up a covered area on your workbench. And use disposable gloves etc... It's hard to tell if you are pushing the first layer of mat through the gel coat- I reckon the inside may have signs of this if I get to split the part open. If it turns to shit I will delete this post and deny having done any fibreglass work..
    1 point
  50. brought this to push people who annoy me
    1 point
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