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Still on daily duties. The datsun club had a meet at Levels in Timaru last weekend and we did a few laps of the track during lunch break. Didnt miss a beat. then on Saturday night I was thinking of excuses to avoid this respray, and essentially had nothing so on Sunday I stripped it and started undrilling the roof. Not too many nasties, really stoked the side rails are mint considering. It has bust out on both front corners, prefect time to slice this out! The new roof skin weighs 8kg. The red one was 15kg. The amount of bog truely is astounding, and I gave it a layer of rhino-liner on the inside to assist in strength.. and a full size piece of dense underlay because I didn’t know if it would drum. Gonna be so good to not have to drag that around! Won’t be running the towbar next time, so minus another 12kg easy. the bootlid is from the old nickM race car, it’s really really fucking tidy. No rust, one small ‘depression’ near the lock, and came with nice bolts and a nicer-than-my-current lock mechanism. Big thanks again to nick for that, the red one had a lot of time, rust repair and bog in it, and wasn’t in nice shape. I have a fair few areas I’m going to re-do but I’m not going to let this drag out. Will be done before the weather cools down again

Photo props to Jarrod Carruthers

Knocked up a knock box for coffee grounds Scraps of steel pipe, plywood, leather and washing line

Huh.. This car never ceases to amaze me..

I have finally managed to get most of the shaping/repairs done, a few wavy bits and a couple of dings here and there, sorted now. I was also having some problems with leftovers from the old respray reacting with the primer and wrinkling on the roof. I solved the problem by bare metalling the whole roof and starting again, to be sure there was nothing underneath. All good now. So now it's all painted up in filler primer, ready for blocking. It's looking quite good already, pretty crisp and straight. Bonnet and guards not attached properly here, which is why the alignment of the front end is all off. Not bad for a noob effort, I think. There's a tiny bit of fine tuning needed, shapewise, a couple of things which weren't easily visible until it was all light grey. But in general looking pretty good, will block it back and get it as straight as poss, then time for colour, at long last.

Took the sled to Reunion last weekend. The weather fri sat was awesome and there sure were some nice cars there. no issues and it ran like a dream all weekend

IF you can get more TGA people than WHK people to come, i'm sure some of us might come over again?

Stayed up way past my bedtime to get some rear brakes sorted. New shoes and cylinders, drums are still mint but will paint them just because.... Also installed the brake lines on diff, realised I'll need a longer rubber hose for chassis to diff being L300 diff in a L200 theres slight difference. And forgot to get a new bleed screw so will sort that asap

Finally decided to have a look at the cub again Tried a carb of a xl185 (fits straight in!) went good but still what I thought was a clutch rattle figured I’d check the valve clearances as that’s a common issue apparently pulled of side cover to get timing marks lined up and hello a very loose flywheel/magneto bolt and a naffed Key/woodruff Will source a new woodruff and file the rest and see what it looks like can buy a new flywheel/magneto for a couple hundred but hopefully not required vtec lyf!

A few people have asked how im going to fuel this..... An aircraft mechanic at work drew me up a sketch on a paper towel and i think its worth a nudge, essentially my fire extinguisher fuel tank is becoming a "rising rate fuel tank" ive got a -8 fitting on my compressor housing which will pressurize the tank and feed the fuel pump at boost pressure. The fuel pump will then add 1.5 -2psi to it keeping fuel from being blown back up the jet in the carb the float bowl will also need to be pressurized as well to make it work. Going to be Braided speedflow lines everywhere but im going for an Extreme! theme on this thing. I get the speed flow lines and fittings from the bin at work no good for the sky anymore but plenty of life in them for this kind of stuff.

Bit off topic but this is what narrows down my workspace in the shed, currently used as storage it's my 82 lancer gsl that I've owned since I was 18. It's the car that's waiting for me to get this ute legal so it can have some attention.... Used to have a project thread for it but it's gone these days. Has currently donated some engine parts etc to getting this ute done which is how it has sneaked into this thread

just a thought mate but the SC manifold inst blocking a water gallery off ?

If I was to do it again I would notch the frame and get the engine sitting a bit further back, and then just drill the frame to pick up the front engine mount

That's a good point, now i'm old and have responsibilities I can pretty much only do Tuesdays, lols.

Hey Chaps and Chappettes! Well this has certainly rolled around fast! Lets congregate out Eastbourney ways this coming Thursday (20th) from 6.45pmish. Map The weather is suppose to clear up by then, but will make a call on the day if it's still looking shifty. Hope to see people there!

If anyone gives you any trouble for efi you can always visit good engineering ltd and I'll write up a report for you

Popped a egt probe in the manifold for the l300 (4d56t) while it was off, I was going to leave it standard but 86hp is a tad punishing in an auto 4wd van. Have some 2.5" exhaust piping and bends left over so will make a new exhaust too as its super simple on the vans. Getting an intercooler on it is going to be a bit more tricky though but im thinking of mounting a water to air behind the drivers seat

Hey guys Thank you for those who responded to this post and have private messaged me about possible in Chch. Ive now got one a new job Wayne.

Fusebox all working. But not before I realized I'd wired 9 out of 10 relays backwards. Woops. Lucky was easy to fix. Also, I've always hated the idea of an external FPR, its just so big and shit looking compared to the OEM ones direct on the rail. Since I'm making an effort to keep things tidier though, and this will sneak in behind the cam cover and look discrete. Pinched from the Redtop engine's factory setup. Think I'll give it a hoon. Has the secondary benefit of that I can just run a smaller EFI spec rubber return line hose back to the firewall tucked under the inlet. Rather than a full sized AN-6 line from the rail to the FPR. These FPRs all only regulate to 300kpa (43psi) down from the 60psi I've been using. I havent managed to find a 60psi factory FPR, funnily enough because the only cars that run 60psi or higher are returnless systems. So let me tell you a punishing story about why that is. Traditionally, EFI systems have run at around 43psi. If you're wondering why the weird number, 43.5 psi is 300kpa, and no one in their right mind uses imperial units to design things. Anyway, this pressure range is a good trade off between how hard the pump has to work/reliability, how much fuel it can deliver, and good atomization. As you raise the fuel pressure the l/min rating of the pump decreases. So keeping the base pressure lower effectively gives you a higher flowing pump for same hardware = cheap. Look how much flow rate a Bosch 044 loses when pressure goes up. It also means that as you add boost, and the fuel pressure needs to go up to suit. Spec sheets for electric fuel pumps show that most start to creak and lose heaps of flow after 65psi or so, and with reduced lifespan. With 43psi base pressure and 20 pounds boost only means 63psi required at the pump. Which is considerably better than trying to achieve 80psi. So, why do modern cars run 60psi base fuel pressure instead? When emissions rules are really tight, Fuel vapour emissions are a big problem. When you heat up fuel at the fuel rail and send it back to the tank, it creates heaps of vapour. As well as that when you open the gas cap, this pressurized hot fuel vapour rushes out which is also an issue they need to minimize. A secondary problem here is that fuel isnt just made of 1 thing, it's made of lots of different chemicals which have different boiling points. My understanding is that the additives that turn 95 octane into 98 octane, are the first to flash off into vapour. So minimizing the fuel heating reduces your octane level loss over time. The fix for these problems is to make sure fuel that goes to the rail, never gets back to the tank. Hence returnless. But now the problem is that at 43psi, if it sits long enough in a hot fuel rail it reaches its boiling point. So 60+ psi raises the boiling point above where this is an issue. Which is also why they dont vacuum reference the FPR in the gask tank on returnless, because you never want to drop the fuel pressure below 60psi absolute. And a modern ECU can just deal with a varying differential fuel pressure a lot better than old shitters can. So in my case, going back to 43psi will be fine but with lower pressure the injector duty cycle will need to creep up a bit. As at 60psi Altezza injectors are 450cc/min Injector, at 43psi it's only 370cc. So I'll need 21% more injector opening time. Currently I only get to around 63% duty cycle at lots of RPM so that'll end up around 76% duty cycle instead. No drama. I will just need to be mindful of when controlling the fuel pump with PWM, that I'm not setting the flow rate too low that it'll have time to boil the fuel. Although these engines have a fairly well insulated fuel rail compared to some other engines where they are stuck in a valley or whatever. The other problem is that my fuel pressure sensor now has nowhere to go, as previously went into the FPR. I managed to find an AN fitting that has a pressure port on the side, so I'll mount this with the sensor whacked in somewhere after the fuel filter on the inlet hose when it turns up. I got the Bosch E-throttle all working nicely, it's very snappy testing via ECU. It looks like I'll need to ramp down the PID settings a bit compared to Altezza one. Will take some 100hz logs and try fine tune it. Speaking of which, this PID tuning explanation is bloody amazing So now I've gotta sort an E-throttle pedal. I've got two options so far to try, but isnt looking as easy as I'd hoped. First is RX-8 pedal, on the left. Convenient option but it doesnt really fit nicely in the available space. The other issue is that the APS sensors are built into the entire pedal assembly. So if it shits itself, you have to rebuy the whole thing which seems stupid. The other option I've been looking at is a 350Z APS sensor, which looks like a normal TPS but has a little bar on it to be moved by a pedal somehow. This doesnt particularly look like it wants to cooperate with the factory pedal, so need to figure out something else there as well. However it does make it a lot easier to keep a spare and replace if it packs up. But I like the idea of keeping the factory pedal, so if I end up using a cable again to test something I've still got the option. Although I guess I could just refit the factory pedal anyway in that case haha.

Did more work on this very neglected and long forgotten project Finally finished welding all of the various frame parts. Fitted chain guards to protect the rider from a flailing chain blow to the kidneys! Two motors....mmmmmmm....tasty!

my mate Adam who is a link tuning wizard gave me a hand to get the e throttle sorted and get it idling and running ok. its getting hot fast which is concerning. the radiator is 11 years old so maybe needs a clean/re-core. ill keep fucking around with it. but anyway today i drove it. it goes mint and makes the whurry noises. tune is rough as fuck at the mo but its good enough to do a couple of Ks and see how it behaves, if i can keep it cool. 2020-02-14_07-18-56 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-02-14_07-19-05 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-02-14_07-19-12 by sheepers, on Flickr

I think you're looking for the word "niche". I was confused about what this had to do with female children of your siblings.

Okay, it's no secret I'm into some pretty niche things. Gopeds, drift trikes, lowrider bikes, skateboarding, gokarts, tallbikes, etc...etc... none of them are popular in NZ by any stretch of the imagination. Now this is about as niche as it gets. 39cc of polini awesomeness! It puts out 6.5hp and sounds like an angry beehive!!! Pops wheelies when the powerband kicks in...its mental. I picked it up a few years ago, with the goal of cutting it up and putting the motor on a goped. As it turns out, its basically the grandfather to the pocket bike craze and is highly collectible in Europe, some selling for over €2500. So needless to say, I won't be cutting it up anytime soon. The clutch fucked out, so I brought this "high performance" clutch. Well if the goal is to add excess weight to the rotating assembly, shift the engagement rpm down low where it's not making power and decrease speed, fun, your will to live as much as possible...then yes, this clutch excels in all those areas. I had other goals, like simply returning it to being awesome like it once was. So, I brought a Chinese clutch for a 49cc kids motorbike, that didn't fit either, then modified it to fit the polini by adapting the new clutch arms to fit the polini hub center. I cut the arms down in the lathe, to fit the polini bolts. Drilling to lighten the arms, this raises engagement rpm. Shortening the springs to put more tension on the arms, this further raises the rpm. Drilling the arm spring pockets to remove the shit casting marks to allow smoother operation, and allow the much fatter polini springs to fit. Back in and running like a dream! I know its ridiculous...I know. However its definitely one of those things that fits the saying "don't knock it until you try it". Not in the way someone may say having sex with men feels awesome "don't knock it until you try it"... no, nothing like that. This is more in the have you ever driven a rotary category... it's only purpose is to make you smile.

Have updated. never used to be able to edit posts but now can :/

Bump. Third Wednesday of the month is tomorrow.

Not much Happening since I tucker it in the shed, we've been focusing on the Datto & Nat's 2020 but here's a big Happy Birthday to the Avenger Brand! Which turns 50 today Love 'em or hate 'em there's a cult following around the world : and more on the road here than in the UK! (its not just me)

Flywheel/stator kits are cheap on ali and mine only took a month to show up. Also whats the go with earthing the stator? Iv got the same issue of low voltage output

This is indeed that car. Although it wasn't overheating then.

Pop the top rad hose off and fire it up, as soon as the thermostat opens it should projectile vomit the coolant out pretty quick. That'll tell you quickly if it's a flow issue or not

just checked the photos and the head gaskets are definitely on the right way round. water pump is genuine toyota, i would hope its made correctly. still scratching my head on this one....

my son and i have got another little project pick it up yesterday

Fuck, totally just overheated it.. Was taking it out for a smash after just getting rid of a big flat spot off idle, was just cruising after the fact when I smelt a bit of hot oil. Having just done a skid (and giving it an oil and filter yesterday) didn't think to much of it. Gave it the boot out of a round about and it stumbled a bit.. bit odd. Got home it was really smelling and the tappets were noisy, smoking from the breather and the hoses were soft. Fucken blew a small bypass hose off the water pump, it was only held on with a wire clip and I never thought much of it since its been there for god knows how long.. Anyway put a new clamp on it and slowly dribbled water in while it was idling and the temps came back, noises also stopped.. Hope I haven't warped the head. Its o-ringed for boost so it shouldn't blow gasses, just oil and water.... Typical. Haven't had a lot of time to work on this, but have done a couple of minors.. Like extending the accel cable so it's in a nice wide curve. Don't get the vibration much now except for it'll randomly kind of buzz around 4-5k I think it's where it comes through the firewall and connects to the pedal somehow. Plumbed the fuel pump better, previously was just lots of hoses.. Then it wouldn't run... Ahhh, what now? Whoops.. Forgot about that bit. Bought a k&n filter so I don't suck some small dog in while I'm ironing out the bugs, By the way you can see the offending hose just under the thermostat housing above. Fixed the broken stud on the bonnet, not sure if I trust its strength.. I then trimmed and tapped the thread back on it.. Gonna take it in for a wof this week and if it passes I'll then stick the wideband on it and getting it running at its best. Reason being is I don't want to weld the bung on this exhaust only for it to be failed.. Might just get a no weld bung as eventually I'll bin this exhaust. Was gonna turbo it for nats but I decided without cert insurance is void so I'll do it when I get back.. Good times..

Edited for PC correctness

Another goped build. Needs tuning to run right, but I lack the space to get it up into powerband where it wants to run. Its showing real potential though with a newly found ability to drift it. It's going to end badly, probably with another broken arm like last year when I taught myself how to do goped wheelies until failing epically...but yolo✌ Specs: Model - Goped Sport Engine - 23cc Zenoah G23LH (rebuilt with new bearings, seals, cylinder, plug, gaskets, piston and rings) Carburetor - Walbro high performance 167A Exhaust - Dominator expansion chamber Spindle - ADA 0.75" (way to big off my small driveway). Other - velocity stack, air filter, aluminum tank mounts, upgraded engine bolts etc... Nothing over the top, but given room to work the powerband it will be a weapon!

Tell Hannah to come out to the swap meet and debate with the Barries about such things as whether Japanese cars are classic, what is the best rust prevention paint, how to warm up your car or not, what carb design is the best etc etc...

Hi team. me again. So we left it with i brought a solar panel for the bus. Well i wasn't to sure on how to mount it up so i called in for assents of @Geophy and @mark105. we all got busy and made some stuff work. kombi roof racks do not hold a greg that well, but it was the only way to get up and put the rivnuts in. all mounted and ready to go. we ran the wires down and through the roof and popped out under the back seat to the unit that sends the power to the battery. for some reason i dont really have any pictures of this but ill post some next time. the following day i parked it out side and thought id see what the solar panel would actually do, in over cast weather it was still pulling current and you could see the current change from different light. if you cant tell i was excited and had to share my news with @Ned as soon as the sun came out to play you could watch the voltage go up. this app im using is from a ABM2 Bluetooth Battery Voltage Monitor. which i needed to tell @UTERUS about. so that was all done and it was pretty much time to go to wagnats. so i thought with 20 hours before my little holiday i should really remove the engine. i had been meaning to do this for a long time to put the correct tin wear on the back of the engine so it would seal the engine bay. see how the current one is tapered, we yeah it was letting air in. so three hours later and replaced a rubber seal she was back in and running ready to go. the following day we got up and headed to wag nats. 1st stop was in te kuiti to drop off some seats to a friend. Leaving te kuiti there was some road works and everyone decided to pass me around 80-110kmph and showered me in stones managing to put 2 large chips and one crack into my windscreen and another into a fucken headlight. all for me to fucken follow all the assholes for the next 2 hours....... can you tell how happy i am about this situation. any who made it to wagnats wagnats was the best note, good old Jack Daniels boxes floating around haha Shout out to @Brimmy for those last two great photos and the solid amount of even better photos in the wagnats thread. we are off camping again this weekend and maybe to a vw gathering in tauranaga. we will see how we get on. till next time.

I was thinking of getting a site. But that means I'll have to go through all my crap.

Update - rod tune complete and now the 51 IDA is singing. If anyone is off to Reunion next week come say hi - I’m there Friday to Sunday. The brake master sht itself and leaked on the RH chassis rail.... I ordered another master (Mazda 808) and we bled it last night. That and found that I was missing a lower rear calliper bolt so I’ve replaced that. fresh VTNZ WOF today.

Sounds good thanks Mark! Lee went for a bit of a reccy down at Matata today and after a bit of a chat to the camps down there, we have decided that although id said Murphys Motorcamp it isnt the most ideal spot for the overnight stay and apologize if anyone has already booked there but we are going to use the DOC camp right in Matata itself. https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/bay-of-plenty/places/matata-area/matata-campsite/ The camp caretaker is happy to rope off a whole corner of the camp for us to have to ourselves and its only a couple of mins walk to food/booze etc Its only $8 for the night pay when you get there spec and hot showers/proper toilets but no cabins so its gunna be camping/sleep on the groun, I believe there are a couple of options for indoor sleeping within Matata but if you want that its upto yourself to sort that. It looks like a lush spot to stay Corner of the camp for us: We are putting together an entry form which should be out this weekend to get a gauge of interest

New ragtop cover for the ragtop time. Brought the bug inside work, took the old cover off and had fun removing all the sticky duct tape glue, fuck that stuff. All the parts layed out. Cut the new cover on the esko, perfectly square cad cut. Sewed the hems over and added slits for the bow to sit inside as factory, the old cover didn't do this so you had to be careful not to end up with a parachute attached to the roof. All mounted, I added some thick felt to the front bow, not sure I like it, if it doesn't pack down I might remove it, looks to chunky. Looks sweet folded back. Will now start thinking about the inside headlining.

Thanks to @Raizer 's tip on sandblaster cabinets being cheap at the moment I went and got one today. Makes cleaning up crappy old parts easy I had to get a bigger compressor as well, supercheap has a special going on those at the moment too, $550 including an air hose

So we did a shuffle on the weekend Yeah I acquired a Blue one that's been shed stored since 1997, figured it was the second Best one I have so deserved a shed spot and OFC the Wifes Datsun too now to start piling boxes on all of them!

PPSC just shoved mircrowave pizzas between the barrel and carb on their weapons. Such a great Kiwi idea. Approx 2 hours riding and your pizza is nice and dusty for road side consumption with either a super fancy craft beer or a lion brown. No in between,

Sorted tyres, was running fine but had a rattle then started missing/carb troubles luckily my new longer/firmer shocks arrived for the *cm50t, should of got a sticker made up.... i like how my rego just says honda motorcycle 10L tank + 5l should hopefully get me through a day?!

New rear Tyre sure does feel clunky/notchy when it’s rubbing my butt did some hitting and bending got a longer chain and thinking I’ll order some longer shocks (325mm firm vs current 300mm floppy boys) 5 days to go (and I’m working 4 of them....)

Oh yeah got one of those bike scissor lifts of trade me for $127.50, wish I’d bought one years ago

Turns out it kinda fits the back have installed og longer shocks back in then went to install brakes but the drum bar? Didn’t clear the Tyre so stole one of the dirt bike that’s longer and welded a kink in it bought a shinko 700 4.60-17, juuuuust fits the front (should buy on for the back too) what it kinda looks like atm (Didn’t take one with longer rear shocks) 3 weeks till Ueraweras.....

I had to do a wheel bearing for my warrant. Otherwise good!