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got this old bus running again after buttoning up the cooling system, and fitting the tow bar Then backed it out in to the sun for the first time in aaages. leetle bit of rake! will hopefully come down with interior etc installed then proceeded to pull the parts car out of its spot (which is over a bit of a hump and slighlty down hill) with it. YO DAWG! I HEARD YOU LIKE 2300 WAGONS SO...etc I had to get Mrs Azzurro to drive the tow car while I 'steered' the parts wagon (by kicking he wheels, as it has no steering box or steering wheel!) and controlled its forwards momentum with wooden blocks. Seems a shame to put an exhaust on it, but in other news, she said she likes driving it So now its in reach of my air hose and extension cord its dismantling time Unfortunately when emptying the boot out (so i can remove the fuel tank - the one that came in the nautilus has a massive dent in it,) the pane of spare hatch glass smashed lucky i have two more i guess.

Last week i priced up a respray and decided to attack all of the rust, dents and scratches. Here it is with the front guards off, the worst rust was underneath them, and you can see half of it sitting on the ground After i fixed the rust i primed and sprayed rubberized underbody spray on the inside of the guards So anyway the guards are back on now, rust has been fixed, the dents and scratches that have been fixed have been primed and there's now only a few little things to do before its ready to be sprayed. [/center] And ive only been pulled up for one random license and breath test

Another week. Not so freaken sure where all th time went. I mean, I got some shit done, but it doesn't really feel like it was much However, motor is now mounted in the car, gear box bolted up, drive shaft in etc. Might have to modify the clutch slave mounting some how, It clearly isn't right, and my guess is I was in to much of a hurry last time to do anything about it, I suspect the clutch slave movement isn't enough to fully operate the clutch fork. Maybe why I had issues with clutch slippage. Then again its probably fine. So next up is strip all the stuff off the front of the engine for painting. Which I guess is what this week is going to consist of mostly. Need the rocker covers and intake manifold painted so I can sit the loom back on the engine and figure out the few mods to the loom I need to do. As I plan on doing everything in wrinkle finish, I also need to figure out some sort of paint booth where I can use some heat. Oh and My 235 / 40/ 17's turned up so droped all my wheels down to local tire wizard for some fitting Not looking forward to finding out how much space I don't have Rad I know

Here is Ian, my very recently acquired 1980 Nissan Civilian bus. This is going to be our family camper, somehow we will fit four of us in.... There are a few minor issues; some rust, the charging circuit doesn't really work, the gearchange mech is kind of sloppy, there is a short in one of the rear lights, but the major issue is that the standing height inside is a maximum 1.5m. This is unfortunate as I am 1.92m tall. Even my youngest who is 10 cannot stand up in it. Some fairly major surgery will be required to rectify this unfortunate circumstance. There are a few other niggling things to sort out, but nothing important. He is pretty sound though, he drove from Mataura near Gore up to Nelson with no issues apart from the batteries dying from lack of charge. It got a pretty good going over today and i am happy overall. Carjam shows the odo to be dodgy as fuck, but even allowing for that it has probably only done 100,000k. It is indicating 60k... The drive along the south island was achieved pretty much 50/50 by the previous owner and then by Sidewaysickness, who had way more battery issue than the previous owner did during the first leg, but finally got it here late last night. Discuss Anyway, pics;

Oh hang on.. yes.. it's coming back to me.. my past boy racer days back in Blenheim with the young solo mums and spotty teenage girls throwing themselves in a drunken state at my mates rotaries. Yes.. rotary hoes...

I thought I better check the ITB adapter to make sure it actually fit. It seemed to not fit initially but then I realized it was just the vacuum barb touching the coolant pipe, this can simply be solved by removing the barb, fitting the adapter and then re-fitting the barb through the gap between the coolant pipe and engine block. Anyway back to work, this time I did the clutch salve cylinder bracket. No pictures of the entire disassembly or cleaning etc, getting a little bored of this painting business: The slave cylinder is located in a kind of unpleasant area, so I decided to rebuild it in hopes of not having to do it later on when access is restricted: A little compressed air easily pushes the piston out: Used Vs. new... glad I decided to do this: New piston in: Finished cylinder: Alright so at this point I was tired of seeing the transmission looking so dirty so thought I would deal with it next. This is how it looked when I got it: In the progress of being cleaned up: Again I kind of forgot to take pictures after getting busy with this, however, once it was all clean I used some etch primer on it: Painted black: Ok next it was time to remove the axles which I had been putting off for a long time. I had never removed axles before and thought they would be a nightmare for some reason, they were actually pretty easy. As suspected the auto and manual axles seem to be identical (bottom one is my original one, middle one is the one I got with manual swap): Also time to drain the oil and disconnect all the engine and trans oil coolers: Chocolate milk as a result of the head gasket failing: So as you can probably guess this is all leading towards removing the engine. I went down to the garage today expecting to do one or two small jobs.. ended up dropping the engine, I suppose it was going to happen one day soon. I had gradually been removing all the accessories/wiring etc. so there wasn't one single big load of work. Soon to be out: I know its a shitty situation having the crane up near a wall like this, had I known it could only work in this position I would have tried to move the car earlier. The reason it doesnt work from behind is because the transmission touches the cranes leg. Because of the location of the diff and the engine lift points it kind of went down a bit crooked: And well that is all I have. At the moment the engine is resting on the ground still partially in the engine bay, I'll get better pics tomorrow but chances are I won't be able to actually get the engine out from under the car until sometime later. Oh, I got something nice in the mail: Again it was too hard to wait so I installed the shift cables even though it would have been 10x easier with the engine out of the way: It feels so right having a manual shifter in there rather then the auto:

My GT Replica is coming along well [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1010.photobucket.com/user/garryhg/media/gt1.jpg.html'>

Also it isn't a k series or an LS so is isn't OS certified...

2T-G with some mild work is easy in blacktop performance zone. Stock for stock they put out the same power/torque figures as bluetops. They are really great motors, just a bit physically large & heavy for the displacement. Have some cents - If it was me I would go 2T-G and aim for a te27 replica instead of the 38th 4age powered ke25 in NZ.

I'm very late to the party here, and I hate to play devils advocate. But shouldn't there be a cup on the bottom of this spring?

only glanced as I tried not to get aids, I'd guess exterior mostly complete, didnt look inside, looks like its only been there 2 days according to stock list (morris 1300)

They're known as Hoes, and they be flocking.

The extent of the problem;

its the alternator! took belt off and noise fucked off as well. thank god its just that and not something much worse.. scort goes down to hamilton to get the twins put on her this week and now a new alternator! happy days at least it wasnt somethng worse..

Wow, new these things are $456.55 +GST https://www.electricaldirectltd.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3700 Some used ones here for starting price $80 no reserve http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/electrical-lighting/lights/exterior-lights/auction-1098249107.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/electrical-lighting/lights/exterior-lights/auction-1098249113.htm

I think it's a good looking bus. Other than the charging issue it gave me it's pretty sound mechanically. I can confirm a few things on it. First and second gear are very well matched to get that thing up to 50k. I laughed when a Tiida decided to take the outside lane at the lights, along with about 4 other cars but then got out launched by some shitty bus. Tests have proven that it will do skids on gravel. Tests have also proven that it can and will go off the clock (indicated 125 kph). This is on flat ground too! Tests have also proven that if you drive for hours at night you need a survival suit to keep warm. But I'm sure some insulation and lining will block up a lot of the draughty holes.

So I have had the brokest summer of my life and done nothing to this wee girl So today I pumped up the tyres and started her up How odd, the alternator did its thing for the 15 miles of driving I did in her When I drive her in warmer weather she doesnt charge at all. I am selling backpacks and hopefully will have her wof and ready for the kid friendly camp

How about now?

Remove fan belt and see if the noise goes away, if it does it's either alt or fucked water pump. /What he said

Take the fan belt off, start it up and see if the noise disappears.

Yes to this. Can so a drag race too. I think you are one of the few to have driven my car with the rotary and the V6? I'm looking forward to trying out an Rx2.

black light's off limits at my place, damn thing would light up like a beacon

Also, for roman

Yeah the factory IRS isnt toooooo amazing in these cars. It would be nice to be able to adjust rear camber to keep tire temps even at trackdays though. But it comes with a whole other set of foibles due to lots of toe change through suspension travel etc. Although its less unsprung weight, it's heavier overall compared to live axle. There's a really interesting race car that I saw in NZPC ages ago, it was like a modern Mazda 6 or something converted to RWD. It had a solid beam rear end with a watts linkage, but the diff head was mounted to the body and it had CVs on the driveshafts which lead to the hubs mounted to the solid beam. It was like a live axle setup but with none of the unsprung weight of the diff head.

spent all that effort getting rid of a lamp post at your house, then build one at your new house

I looked harder: Fully Dressed With Fluids: 163Kg And it's not a commodore motor LY7 dry - 168kg

you reckon, very similar weight to a complete, dry manual V6 Commode motor with loom and bell. sub 200kg on a pallet . but back on topic, bored and stroked 2tg on sides for period doorts

made some hub centering rings for the wheels. the front stub axel sticks out a bit and the wheel cap wouldn't fit so i made the front ones with a cap type thingo built in. 2016-05-30_08-46-29 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-05-30_09-00-04 by sheepers, on Flickr

Ever since I was a pimply faced, 18 year old, screech, I've had a dream of getting a bmw into what is the worlds biggest bmw mag, Performance BMW UK. Fast forward through about 5 or 6 bmws later, and I flicked my build thread through to the mag, not expecting much. I almost shat myself with excitement when I got quite an enthused reply from the editor. The main problem she was worried with, was, who would do the photos? I excitingly replied, as I had just the guy. In steps our favourite krump dancing, banana spinning, camera snapping gentleman, Richy. On the day of the shoot, Richy boots me out of bed to get that golden shower of light out in Pohangina, and after some hatchback carting for the rolling shots by Waggy tail times, and some skids from Cam, we were complete. Thanks Richy, me ol' pal. Boy oh boy it took some time for the magazines to finally get here, but I tied my hands behind my back and resisted from downloading a copy, so that for the first time, I could turn the pages just like I imagined as a little shitbag. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/29495-sparkles-bmw-of-supermega-happy-hell-yes/

Trying to put up a photo of the diffs the longer one is out of a alb car and the smaller is not. The snout has the clutch in it

greg has done an amazing job on the seats and carpets. im super happy with how its come out. he's still got the back seats and the head rests (the one in the picture hasn't been done yet) to do and he'll drop them in to me on wednesday night. the front seats are so so so good. I'm really amazed at how good it looks!! can't recommend Greg and his team at Midnight Upholstery highly enough, super high quality work that really shows his skills, thanks Greg!!!!!!!! 2016-05-28_04-25-07 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-05-28_04-25-16 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-05-28_04-25-34 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-05-28_04-25-43 by sheepers, on Flickr

for some reason i cant see any of your pics. even the first ones.

^ You forget you're on oldschool, the home of polishing turds

In the scheme of things its cost neutral to buy a standard motor to get it going. Because you sell it again when you swap the good motor in. Biting off more than you can chew is the #1 reason why projects fail.

Success! and i only had to buy a whole car to get them

Made quite a bit of progress on the rusty hole othis week hole made a lot bigger had a few people at OS Nats say that they wished they had the tools to do body work, and that i must have some mean ones. Ah, no not really! my grandads hammers, some gilbow shears and a vice. oh and cut of wheels and flap discs! But ill show you how i do it. mmm whats another for pirate treasure? This is my template. Yum for small bits like this (whicn is most rustwork usually) just picked apart, cut off the rust and remake, Use cereal boxes as template material as it bends like metal but is easier to cut and trim. Once the carboard fits without forcing it, transfer it to steel repeat the folds, trim till it 'falls' into place this is the boot floor corner - bit of a wiz with teh power file and thats ready to be stuck on This is the basic process but a bigger simple shape template made and sheet ready to cut- i use some Gilbow shears i got at a second hand shop, they are great. sheet being folded, on a bit of I-beam. Just tappy tap tap with the hammer, all of a sudden it will be done. For small bits i use the vice, but man I wish i had a folder, much neater (and quicker!) valance section nd a bit from the base of the d pillar remade from "templates" valance etc ready to weld underneath also tapped in the stenthening indent by clamping the edge on the i-beam and using a cold chisel, You could make a template to tap around too, but meh it was a square. Again just tappy tap tapperoo till its suddenty done.

brought this to push people who annoy me

Now you see it Now you don't One of these things is not like the other - compression when cold was 160, 155, 30, 120 I also found this, the balance shaft belt had actually snapped and was just about tangled up with the main cambelt And engine block stripped bare as it was sent off to the engine shop. Will be coming back bored out to suit the HKS oversized pistons, balanced rotating assembly, deck re-surfaced and balance shafts eliminated. Next step is to dismantle the DASH engine.