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aint no update like a picture less update. things done today or last night in no particular order made a parcel shelf out of 12mm MDF and carpeted it and stuck that it. cleaned the rear seats and put them back in (they will get recovered when all the carpets and that get done) installed the front and rear seat belts painted the rear door cards and put them in painted the front door cards and put them in put the passengers seat in put the new inner and outer belt line seals in pumped another 2 liters of cavity wax into the sills and doors cleaned and painted the sill trims drove it around the block a few times. its starting to look like a car now, I've got to pull the brakes apart so i can match up some seals and then its wof time.

Sooooooooo while I've had the car apart for other stuff. cobbled together an injector test bench so I can work out deadtimes and flow rates etc etc. Took about 4 hours of running tests at various pulse widths and voltages etc last night to characterize the Altezza injectors @ 60psi. At 60 they are awesome and linear right down to 1.6ms which is lower than what my car idles at. Will test a bit lower today and see where they start becoming a problem Hopefully the second set of injectors will take a bit less time, now that I know what the process is. I came up with a spread sheet that helps figure out the dead time, basically you adjust the number up or down until you get a flat line instead of it sloping one way or the other. Deadtime too high: Deadtime too low: Then once I worked out the deadtime for this voltage (13.4v) I could run a simpler test at other voltages, as I already know one of the values. So this time I'm looking to get the flow rate matching at all voltages, once their deadtimes have been excluded. Based on already knowing the value for 13.4v The Altezza injectors are awesomely linear though. (If injectors were non linear you'd see less of a straight line and more of a curve) It will be interesting to see how well my $120 Aliexpress 1000cc single pintle injectors compare, haha. I should probably start putting my car back together though, trackday is next weekend!

Haven't really done a lot with this lately. A while back I fitted a single side draft carb to it (Weber 40 DCOE). Have been fiddling with jet sizes and watching the wideband, but still haven't got it right. Will probably need to cough up some money and get someone who knows what they are doing to look at it. A lot better then it was to begin with though. Sorry for the potato pics, will find a better camera some time. Had a bit of a wiring tidy up, not motivated to do a full wire tuck but have re-routed and hidden some to make it look a bit better. Did a grass khana with it a few weeks back too, was a lot more competitive then I was expecting.

Yawn update. Drive this thing every weekend basically rain or shine. Rain is lols. Made burger meet (in the rain as above), went to caffeine & classics etc Got new rear tyres and found one of the rear wheels is buckled hence the slight motorway wobbles I've had so going to drop both in to Arrow Wheels soon to get sorted. 4th & 5th are pretty noisy but not notchy or anything so just keeping an eye out for a w57/58 to have as a replacement if/when this lets go. Changed the blocks out today for 38mm (had 50mm's) just to get some more clearance in the rear, makes it nicer to cruise now, can hit bumps without worrying about peeling tread off in the arches. Carpark picture shows height as it sits now. Still haven't done the fuel sender or wipers. Will get to that lol. Pretty sure the tune has been locked so can't do launch control or anything without starting from scratch. Might do this as the valve springs were shimmed super tight because it was dropping valves due to harsh limiter and I think this has been changed now so could go to smaller shims so the motors not so noisy.

Success! and i only had to buy a whole car to get them

I'm not sure if this is worthy of a project thread. I got this mower for $250 buy now. Seemed cheap. Picked it up this morning. It had been sitting in a farm shed for ages. All the tyres were flat. I pumped them up and they seem to be holding air, they are full of cracks. Had to remove this wheel to fit it on the trailer. I JUST fit it in the garage. Both sides of the frame are cracked just behind the engine. V-TWIN! No idea how old it is. I think they made this model from 1990 to 2003. The Bonnet thing is missing. It has a big steel bumper now. The battery is stuffed, need a new one. I fucked around for ages trying to jump it off the racecar, but my shitty supercheap jumper cables just started melting. I could only get the engine do do part of a rotation.... So I connected the battery directly and discovered that the problem was that the ignition cuts out when you turn the key too far?! I chucked some gas in it. Still no go. Checked fuel was coming out of the pump. Drained the float bowl. SUCCESS!! It's alive!!! No smoke. It has drive. Doesn't seem to have brakes... The pedal only seems to disengage the drive by taking tension off the drive belt. WTF am I supposed to do on a hill????? Things to do: Replace the fucked fuel hose. Use the big ratchet ties to try close up those cracks and weld some plates over them. New battery(racecar battery is too tall). Replace the front left kingpin bush, it's totally shagged and making the steering have massive amounts of play. Tighten all the loose bolts. Find out why it shreds the belt(according to seller). I think he's just put it on wrong maybe?

Well finally a bit more traction this week or soon to be lack-thereof Turbo & Injectors and miscellaneous other parts arrived from Europe. I need to fabricate a log manifold for the new turbo to bolt up to. Will also need to send the clutch off to beef it up All new intercooler and pipework to be done also. Will change it to a much larger front mount instead of the side mounted setup I am currently using. Should be good.

Had a tune up on the dyno ready for Hampton Downs Im only running the standard engine for now until I have the funds to finish off and assemble the race motor. but 102 HP at the wheels for a standard pinto sounds like fun

So my engine picture broke the social media internets today. Where were we... Right so ordered the linkages today. Should be here Monday.

so as i said in spam some cunts tried to steal this car. they didn't get very far, my neighbour stopped them in the street. but - they fucked the key barrel and somehow they managed to fuck the clutch/driveline to a point where there is no drive at all. wont know what they did until i pull it to bits which will probably be in the next week. Swan insurance have been fucking magical in working with me to fix whatever has been done. at this stage paying for whatever it is in the driveline thats fucked is a given but they also want me to pull the motor apart for a bit of an inspection to make sure they didn't ruin the motor in anyway (they had the thing pinned on the limiter for about 2 minutes which is why my neighbour got suspicious and went out to have a look) so im going to pull the sump off and a couple of caps and maybe the head too. so yea, i have to pull it all to bits but it could be way worse.

Manifold is all welded up. Everything fits nice. Time to make linkages.

Engine mounts. Started out with a few odd shapes cut from 6mm aluminium plate: And after welding: These are the weld-on brackets for the mounts, cut from 3mm steel: The assemblies will sit on the chassis like this: (this is the back view).

so not much has happened just tackling some of the small jobs and fixing some shitty wiring Ever since I got the car it seemed to take forever to warm up but the fans would come on since my sender was in the top hose and the fan switch wasn't I figured the thermostat may be stuck shut and it was when I tested it so , New thermostat , radiator cap and gasket went on. I also tidied up some wiring as the terratrip had a 15 A glass fuse in it and had those shitty push in holders I hate as they can cause bad connections so put in 2x new blade fuse holders and the correctly rated fuses. wired it up some dash switches to power the terratrip and intercom and the intercom seems to work but I need to buy some headsets to test it. Bled up the cooling system and sits rock solid at 180-190 deg F with the new thermostat and doesn't take long to warm up from cold.

All wired for a Link Fury. Once linkages are done will put wiring back on and buy the ecu. Vroom

I agree with Brdflu. it works for other regions. Somewhere like spitfire square which has parking and has burger fuel, mexicali fresh, subway etc not sure how busy it gets but its on the ring road so pretty easy for most people to get to.

In a rare moment of lucidity, I realised the poor old girl lanquishing in the shed under a pile of parts and gathering dust had just celebrated her 45th birthday. She has been parked after overheating a couple of years ago and being put in the 'too hard' basket and forgotten about - apart from my girls who love playing in the 'big car' in Dad's shed. Despite having umpteen other projects on the go (plus wife/kids/work/sports) I decided I needed something else to spend time/money and to skin my knuckles on. Shit pic but it reflects the loss of dignity of the old girl being parked up and used as a bench... It is a factory 302 Fairmont, C4 with column change and fold down seat between the buckets. Had her since I was 18, and despite the mistakes of youth, I still have original 2 barrel carb, manifolds etc tucked away. Now, I could just sort the overheating issue and drive her, OR I could take the chance to pull the engine, tidy up 40+ yrs of use, and add some fun bits while I'm at it - so she can gather her skirts and keep up with the brash young tarts of today. Seeing a 2T engine hoist on sale at The Toolshed with free delivery made my mind up, so I ripped into it last night...

got me one these recently but am pulling me hair out - need new crankshaft and piston sleeve+pistons +rings+bearing rebuild kit -else a no go venture - any help with references on websites would be much appreciated takes Mazda AU 1484cc engine - found in Yale forklifts+HYSTER forklifts and some TCM forklifts

Mower inspection weekend¡ uploading pictures

Went in on Friday afternoon to do some more work and things were going well, on track to have the engine in the car this weekend. Until I went to swap the exhaust manifold to the e28 one. This is where things came to a halt, much like a stance car that has hit an unforseen bump. So 9 of the studs came out nicely, either stud and nut or nuts came off. But 3 didn't want to play along, snapping under the nut. There was some stud protruding so I thought it was in luck. However this was not the case. I tried doing the double nut trick, welding the nuts to the studs, vice grips etc. Either the stud would not budge, or it just snapped, leaving me nothing to work with. Still, not the end of the world, time for the drill. So I went about trying to drill them out, which went well on 2 of them, however on the third, the drill bit snapped inside the hole. If my emotions at the time could be expressed in an image, I think this would be fitting: The offending obstruction that will need extraction: If this wasn't enough to set me off, I went to try and buy some tools I thought might work to try and resolve this sinkhole of a situation, such as carbine tungsten drill bits to hopefully drill through the drill bit, every shop I went to was either closed or had nothing. So not only do I now have extra expenses and the awaiting of a very unpleasant task, but my weekend is also wasted as I couldn't do anything further. Which has also delayed my driveshaft as I can't drop it off to be modified until I am sure how long it needs to be, which I need the motor in for. So there you have it. Here I was hoping I could show you all how to do an M30 conversion in a week. Might be 2 weeks now.

too new? still in its box though.. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1066644499

ke10 and early ke2 with leaf front spring i believe had a 3 bolt steering knuckle. would be same ball joint as a KP. dont have vented disk tho. EDit: and they look totally different with ball joint sitting outside of the 3 bolts. So its not corolla knuckles.

We have a retarded looooong relatively steep hill here and had to go up it a few times on a few cruises. Unfortunately i was in the putt-putt... (1159cc single brl down draft with single exhaust manifold.) Amazingly tho i was able to do 100kph up the hill... and then some daw 115 at one point. But it would only do so in 3rd. Would easily redline out in 3rd yet in 4th it would struggle and id drop below 80kph before id knock it back and get moving again. Didn't want to hold everyone up on a freeway lol. So i gave up and left it in 3rd and sat on 100kph. Doubt the little engine liked it much hahaha.

Oh yeah regarding hills. I shot up the Nelson side of those big hills to Blenheim holding 80-90 right up the backside of slow tourist traffic in my 1159cc no worries and out to 100+ when I got a chance. Had wound lots of advance into it and didn't look at the temp gauge!

I chuckled at hoping for 70hp in the internet world of 800hp engines I'm hoping for 30

I would be happy with 70 on the DCD. The head is stock apart from a skim but having more compression and a better cam should lift the power somewhat. I would think with a sidedraught it will get more but at the sacrifice of some drivability. Perhaps. Oldschool dyno day needed. Anyone cracking triple digits gets sent home...

https://www.restorationonline.com.au/

pullstring switches all the way.

Found an E36 radiator that fits perfectly between the chassis rails so made some mounts and now it's in. Also fitted my engine mounts and adapters. The adapters needed a couple of small alterations before everything lined up 100%, somewhat like a custom-made suit, if you will. Also sideways mode has been activated with the installation of the LSD: I also replaced the center bearing in the driveshaft but the front needs to be modified as it's not the same as the e34 one, meaning it doesn't like up with the guibo. And this one's entitled "A new perspective":

This car wont have a borg warner rear, that was only some NZ new / Aussie assembled / etc cars. Anything out of Japan has Toyota T series or F series etc. (Which is a good thing, the Borg Warner stuff was junk)

It's a few days past yesterday but work got in the way of playtime. Couldn't be bothered sealing the gaps so in it went anyway, I ran it in the drive with everything all assembled and thermostat in there and it is rock solid at 80 degrees so that's nice. I started unwinding tape, gauges, switches and misc wires and removed this stuff that doesn't do anything except make me angry. Next? uhhhhhh probably more wiring. Maybe even have a go at sealing some gaps in the floor/firewall so it isn't 420 every time I drive it.

Its all Certified and all the paperwork has arrived -Warrant -Rego -Authority Card -Motorsport Licence -Club Membership -Rollacge homologation sticker and the logbooks good to go which makes for a very happy Driver (me) and Co-driver (dad)

There in the road, straight ahead, sparkys starlet had stalled, the 12a was dead. He couldnt stop, chuffing the meth pipe, atleast the kp wont get, impounded tonight.

i really hope thousanddollarsupercar has locked himself in a room with his piano and is filming an epic rap battle video... i wanna see some of you cats perform these raps

More foamer rubbish. You probably can't see it from the shitty Instagram photo but I finally have a use for my genuine jay-de-em Toyota plate surrounds. (Transportation office: 熊谷 - Kumagaya, Saitama Prefecture). Just around the corner from the yard, mayte! Discuss: http://oldschool.co....1-sc-chit-chat/

Hey little rota is your daddy home? Did he call AA plus is he on the phone? Mm-Hm, you got a bad design Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Tell me now baby is he good to you? And can he nang on your limiter like I do? - Oh no, I can rev you higher Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Sometimes, it's like someone got a drill, baby, edgy and dull And cut a bridge port through the middle of my skull I blew up the bellhousing when I revd until its dead Had a flywheel running through the middle of my head Only you, Rotary desire Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire

Not as bad as Rotary puns, which just keep on going around.

Last bits of setup If all goes to plan , its coming to the monthly oldschool meet on Wednesday

many hours later.... Its all back together and running

So Yeah

Starion has two bolt knuckles.

I remember this car was for sale when we were selling the one at our work. I believe it was starion front coil overs.

After picking mjrstars brain and finding the parts needed I converted the 1ggte from distributor to CAS today so I tgjoight I would just pita quick how to on here. The distributor is way to big and in the way and iI waned to to run wasted spark any way. Big arse dizzy Difference between dizzy and 1ggze CAS And as you can see the CAS won't fit with the 1ggte thermostat housing. So you need the housing from a 1gge as they sit lower.here the differance between the 2 The new housing bolts up the same and the heater pipe bolts straight up as well the only thing is there went any coolant pipes for the factory turbos. Also the top 2 bolt holes need to be drilled out as the 1ggte bolts are thicker. The top edge all so needs to be ground down a wee bit so the cas fits. I used my milling machine. My milling machine Now plenty of room Job done

So the very day the dirty old bitch got an alignment and i had decided some sweet summer cruising was in order the power steering decided to become a bit dog, working then not working etc. I decided the first thing I would look at was the pump as it needed some loving anyway, it was only being held on by 1 bolt when it needed three; That pump was a right cunt to get off, I had to remove the radiator to get to the lock tab on the pulley nut to remove the pulley cos the stupid fucking brits thought that the mount bracket needed to be nuclear bomb proof rather than just slot the fucker so you could just lift the pump out. The pump is a beautifully made bit of kit, although about 3kg worth for unknown english reasons. I am remembering why I fucking hate british vehicles and love boring Toyotas, that is 1/4" folded and welded steel plate; I have purchased the parts car shown in a previous post and went to Takaka to collect a few bits, but I stupidly forgot to take all the tools I needed to remove the pump off the parts car. My poor little truck was shitting its ring out coming back over the hill I must say, it was second gear most of the way up... a ton of steel on an 1800 townace ute will do that. Now, the innards of my pump were actually pretty immaculate once i stripped it, in fact they they looked like new, so I decided I could utilize my mediocre machining skillz to make a backing plate to attach more bolt holes, rather than waste an afternoon going back over the hill; Some time consuming blunt holesaw action; Turning the shit to the size of the spigot on the back of the broken mount Matching the plate hole positions to the existing hole and half holes, I tapped the new holes to match the half holes, I figured the half holes would do something then. Et voila! I wont be able to crank those bolts up hard cos it is only 6mm mild steel with the equivalent of an M10 going through it, but it will be heaps better than before. I put it all back together tonight, I gave the rad and the engine a bit of a flush before reassembly and used a slightly longer V belt on the pump drive as it was a bit short to get on and off easily. It has not fixed anything power steering wise but at least I know that the pump is ok now. So fucking stoked I got an alignment approx. 4 kms before need to pull the steering rack to fix it, top planning there dickhead. /end transmission

More progress from the last couple of weeks, I got the rollcage all welded up It went together pretty well, I haven't made one before so lots of measuring and re-measuring but I got there in the end. So all this effort was pretty much for these little bits which are the bosses that make the upper seatbelt mounts that go into the main hoop here So all done and in place it looks like this I have a couple of things to finish on the mounting plates inside the car and then it is on to the exhaust.

dosnt even look like the back seat has been sat in what a score So the deal is 3 owner car first owner from 1970 1973 mileage 25000 mls 2nd owner from 1973 to 1994 mileage 81000mls 3rd owner from 1994 to 2015 mileage 81600 has been parked since they bought it about 22 years in a dry shed. it has a few little bumps and scapes but overall very tidy and original. So got it home and washed it drained all the rank as rotten fuel out (that shit smells bad) cleaned out the fuel lines replace perished fuel line. Added water in the top which in turn all fell out the bottom radiator is rotten as well. but anyway fitted 2nd hand dissy and coil that i knew were good as it had no spark cranked for a bit and away she went sounded like a tight little engine under all the exhaust noise that is also rotten. but progress. So the bad thing are the shocks are stuffed the bushes have all perished and the brakes are siezed but as ive been collecting ford parts for a long time i have most of the bits requred to fix it so all in all i think i have a real sound project.

So a bit has happened just haven't had time to update. Noticing the V12 engine mount pattern is the same as the 1UZ, so I ordered a set of 1UZ to M series engine mounts from xcessive racing in the states. I measured the differece in V angle between the mounts bolted onto the engine and the subframe (seeing the v12 is a different degree to the 1uz). The differece was 18 degrees, so I got an engineer to bend the mounts out another 18 degrees. Now they are the same as the subframe. I now need a 30mm engine mount I can adapt and that side is sorted. Managed to score a 1UZ Celica with an R154 so figured I would take the R154 out and sell the rest. So now I had a R154 and the 1UZ clutch and flywheel. These bolted straight onto the V12. I figured I might as well save the hassel and splashed out on a R154 to 1GZ bellhousing. So now everything is bolt on. Made some wooden engine mounts as a dummy and sat the engine back in. Tonights mission is dummy everything up and fit the engine box in. According to my tape measure, the factory gearbox mount will bolt to my R154 and the engine will sit in the middle of the engine bay. I would have preferred it to sit back a bit further ,but 25mm isnt going to kill handling or asthetics. Still leaves me plenty for radiator. Have also cleaned up and painted the rocker covers in my traditional wrinkle black. Will try and keep up with updates as is moving pretty fast now.

Picked this bad boy up a few weeks ago. 1GZ-FE from a Toyota Century 5.0 V12 These things make 480nm and 400 of that from 1200rpm!!!!! This should be fun. So next mission once work slows a bit is to whip the M series out and dummy fit this in. If it doesn't clear the bonnet I'll look at going down the ITB route. So far the plans are going to be to run a link and R154 and try and run it stock otherwise to see what it's like. Then later start playing with the engine. But as said before if it doesnt fit height wise I'll have to start playing earlier. Here we go again.

Mmkay, so I've had time to tinker and found two cylinders were intermittent. Changed out the old sparkies for new NGK's and replaced the oil which looked pretty yuck. Here are some more photos for y'all: Interior is super clean bar a couple of rips in the seats. I dig the red and black. very 70's.

Been continuing getting some work done on this. Got pretty much everything bolted on and was doing well when I managed to snap off an inlet stud in the head. Bit of a pain in the arse, but hopefully my mate can give me a hand to sort it with an easy out. Did a round headlight conversion on it today, pretty stoked with the outcome! Managed to get a grill pretty cheap off trademe, the buckets are universal between square and round headlight then just needed to get some retainers. BNT couldn't get anything, so went to palmside. They didn't have any new ones in stock so got some 2nd hand ones cheap from them instead which worked out well for me. Got some new crystal headlights off trademe. Pretty stoked with the outcome. One of the existing headlights had had moisture in it, so needed re-silvering or replaced anyway. The whole conversion round worked out to be pretty cheap too, very happy with it.