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i gave the injectors a spruce up and a coat of paint. then attached new injector seals and put it all back together. its starting to look about right. I've still got the bottom windage tray to attach and the fan shroud, both of which need a good clean up and a coat of paint. im also missing the proper oil cap for this rocker cover and i need to get a hose to make the breather pipe with. Mikes got the oil cap so i just need to get it off him and paint it. next is to start on the interior so ill do the heater box and put that back in first i think. 2016-03-16_06-27-44 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-03-16_06-27-59 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-03-17_05-38-51 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-03-17_05-38-58 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-03-17_05-39-12 by sheepers, on Flickr

Just picked up a Volvo 240 Wagon, 2.3L of raw Swedish fury, a car so good it outlived it successor in production. The Soviet's being the fine connoisseurs they were, decided this was the model they must have for their embassy and so it was purchased, by them, new in 1988. 363,000 KM's later (the odometer stopped working shortly after) here it is: First job is to get it road legal..

Hurpa durp cunts on Fb who heard it thru a friend of a friends rotahoes pitty pup xbox with no controllers that no more certs for rotavans were being issued

you have to have a semi believable reason as well like camo door cards are illegal cause if you open the door and a cyclist rides past, they wont be able to see the door cause of the camo and they might injure themselves. thats a dangerous fitting

I'm a stupid moron, without looking at the date properly I went there tonight. I just saw Wednesday, and thought sweet. It didn't stop me from parking up and having burger fuel for dinner though. When it comes to this Mirage, I just don't seem to think properly. Argh. So impatient to show it off. Grrrrr

Picked up the old sled on Saturday. Will get it running and send it back for paint. Should be fun.

Camo door cards cant be certed - Max, 2016 There we go, I've started a rumor. Fuck i hope this takes off

Here's a video with the straight pipe, needs a tune still. Will try and do a better one once the mufflers on.

Can't get a cert coz it's a hackjob

Every day is a school day when Phil is around.

I'll supply my snake for charming. It'd be cool to stick to the original outdoor plan. Last meat before daylight savings ends. I'm happy for the cods to decide though.

Rain or shine, tonight guys! Seeya then

only if the original spring seat was designed to fit a spring with an unformed end, ie the spring end isnt shaped so its flatter. ie if the spring looks like this you could cut it but if its like this, then NEIN NEIN NEIN

Finally Splashed out and bought my Smiths Gauge Cluster Marking it out to replicate a works style dash Smiths Water temp is still on its way will swap out the VDO for Smiths one shortly Now time to wire it all up

second after slam in importance, was clean it, as its filthy. every bit of trim i pulled off had cockroaches and spiders under it. so i stripped the whole interior, put a bug bomb in it, and waterblasted the whole inside and ''fixed'' the seat, with 2 t-shirts and some duct tape

Can donate distinctly average projector.

So I want these doors solid, I'm just not completely disassembling them like the shell. That said the bottom hinge on the drivers door needs some major work, some numpty(me) tried to drill out the pin about ten years ago, removed runningboard, jack car up on one side and drilled straight up, sept the car was on a angle this it's self would be bad enough, having to drill out the rivets in the door, fit a new hinge and then suss out nuts and bolts to hold it in place, but I can't. Because someone at some point folded this door right round and half ripped the rivets out, and then welded everything back together. So. This is stuffed anyway, so off it came. See how I skillfully drilled out half of the pin! this is looking from the bottom of the door, there is even less meat left on the top of the hinge. I was hoping to somehow fix this half of the hinge and just use half of the new hinge, but everything is so bent and twisted it really needs replacing. after thinking long and hard about the easiest, fastest or best way to fix this thing, I did this. and chopped the inner panel, hinge and all, out. started removing rust and hammering the folded door skin flat, something I couldn't do with the inner panel in the way. Also cut this out of the other end on the bottom of the same door. very krusty in here. removed parts and new hinge from this angle you can see how far the hinge has pulled though the door. it's going to take some work still to separate the hinge without damaging the door panels shape. Again, What have I done!! started making a patch for the bottom corner, might have to wait till the weekend till I can cut the hinge out of the door panel. Also finally welded up what must be the last rust hole in the body, on the passenger rear quarter window sill. and just a wide shot of the shed just to prove I haven't cut the whole thing into tiny chunks. my names Angus and that's my story.

Made the exhaust, was too loud as it only have one Coby resonator and just a straight pipe out the back. So decided to make a muffler for it, since I couldn't find anything the style I liked. So here's my guide to making a muffler haha Press some end caps. Drill a lot of holes in some tube and then louvre them. Weld on baffle for the expansion chamber. Wrap tube in stainless steel wool and then stuff with fibreglass. Weld on end caps Polish. Then fit. Is all welded now and have painted the tube black, just waiting for some flanges to go just in front of the diff, otherwise I'll have some difficulty trying to get it over the diff to fit.

Is there such a thing as a road legal rotobongo?

dude its not Indian Jamaican day.

Myth. Not sure how that story got started

VR-4 head will bolt on to the block but would need a change in pistons, manifolds, front timing components (crank sprocket, balance shaft sprockets, oil pump, water pump, tensioner/idlers, covers) and even a crank shaft change as his will certainly be the earlier 'short snout' crank to suit the thin SOHC timing belt. Later SOHC engines share the same crank as the DOHC engines.

Also its my birthday tomorrow and since I cant make it tonight I would appreciate a moments silence Thanks

i'd go for a floppy gym sock over the V can, it's unique, flea from the chillipeppers would roll it as a costume, and you can use it to clean the dipstick. cool starlet. yeah forget the shiny bolt-on bits and throw your money at making the car sweet to use. trust me, it'll make sense in a couple years.

Belated, but part two of the trip to Sheeper Garage Pty. Co. Ltd Inc. included the smashing together of a gearbox crossmember to hold the T50 in where the K40 used to live. Project_KP61_4AGE (1347) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Project_KP61_4AGE (1330) by Richard Opie, on Flickr You can see the pickup points for the original crossmember, and the gearbox mount on the trans itself pretty easy. So we need to make that, bolt up to over there.... Project_KP61_4AGE (1320) by Richard Opie, on Flickr By the time I arrived Sheepers had already fashioned up a jig of sorts and started on the modifications to the TE71 crossmember that came with the gearbox. The mount points on the KP floorpan are at different heights, so the new pieces needed to accomodate this. Project_KP61_4AGE (1314) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Project_KP61_4AGE (1299) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Then the extensions/whatever were glued onto the crossmember. I quite enjoy taking photos of welding... Project_KP61_4AGE (1155) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Project_KP61_4AGE (1207) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Project_KP61_4AGE (1189) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Then simply chop up some pieces of steel for gussets, weld the gussets to the crossmember, and after finishing one side it should look something as per the example above. Project_KP61_4AGE (1180) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Project_KP61_4AGE (1167) by Richard Opie, on Flickr This was the other side being checked for size before final welding. Project_KP61_4AGE (1144) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Then once it's all stuck firmly together, the end result after a few hours work was this fine looking specimen here. Solid as a rock. Project_KP61_4AGE (1120) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Engine and gearbox is firmly mounted! This crossmember will get some further strengthening but for now all is super! Thanks again Sheeper!!! Thanks for reading.

New head.

Some sneaky hoodlim broke into my wag and left a bottle of scrumpy on the front seat. I suspect a goatish character.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BDCwse7Soxk/?taken-by=akiwijoker spraks pic is here https://www.instagram.com/p/BDC2pcmuA_B/

I got given an old billboard canvas today. Whack it up on the side of a shed. Projector. Win. Dunno how you'd do sound though without pissing off the neighbours Bluetooth chain some UE Booms? Probably fit about a good dozen cars in the yard at my shed. Maybe more. Dunno if screen would go high enough. Low cars at the front.

Good good.

This could be irrelevant, and totally unscientific in every way, with no recorded data, or even adequate testing done other than feel. But I installed a trans cooler in my Hilux Surf after a hard day out on the beach in the sand climbing sand dunes etc, I could feel the heat in the car coming off the tunnel was immense. Since the install of the trans cooler (still plumbed into the radiator aswell), I have yet to feel the same immense heat from the tunnel, in the same or even slightly hotter weather conditions. As I said, totally unscientific, but reel woorld gainz wur hed i buleve.

Word on the street is rotorbongos can't be certed anymore for some reason. That rumors been going round for years

i'm gona take a frypan, fire, sangs and bread. tie in with this as you will.

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Beaver is onto it. It's a common L-series (6 & 4) issue, the factory manifolds have heat shields for both carb and EFi, yet when people upgrade their fuel and air, introducing more heat, they often remove said shield. Solutions: 1. A basic heat shield between the headers and the intake and carburettors (you can buy fancy aftermarket baller shields for the 6) 2. Header wrap 3. Header coating 4. A combination of 1 and 2/3. Unless your fuel lines are closer than the carbs, it's more likely to be boiling in the carbs before the lines would be affected. You could try some basic reflective heat shielding on the fuel lines first before committing to braided lines. TBH, I don't think you need braided lines.

Would it not be a lot cheaper and easier to try fitting an exhaust/heat shield ans see if that helps?

Wow. Learnt something new today.

lights have a bit of a loophole, if lights are modified at a cert inspection, then we have to check they have a relevant standard on them. however at a wof inspection, they only have to comply with the requirements of the virm- which doesnt include checking for a standard marking. so we get quite a few cars that fail on lights with no std, they put stock ones in, get cert, put lights with no standards on again, get wofs 4 eva

http://www.jwspeaker.com/products/categories/headlights/

Lol what he said, they are fucking disgusting.

Show us ya crack/s

As stated earlier I’d ditched the original rear lever action shocks and replaced them with a somewhat over engineered set of angle iron brackets to convert to telescopic shocks. (All the better for performing Rigamortice’s legendry “one wheeler peelers”!)…. On closer inspection when removed, the brackets were very rusty; steadfastly resisting the temptation to fabricate a new set I gave them a few days in the phosphoric acid bath (this is supposed to be a restoration project after all). With all the rust removed they looked not only serviceable but had a cool interesting grainy texture to them, a bit of rust proofing and they’ll live again….. The only challenge now is to identify the shocks. Fitted during the 70’s I’m simply at a loss to remember where they came from, (both Rigamortice and I are living proof that if you can remember the 70’s you weren’t there!). We now offer up a free, slightly sat on chocolate fish to anyone who can identify them or suggest a suitable replacement. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/49843-sr2%E2%80%99s-1947-vauxhall-%E2%80%9Crigamortice%E2%80%9D-discussion-thread/

Another update - this was in the March 2016 issue of Mini Magazine (comes out in early February in the UK). Still won't be on the shelves here until about May

Danny was well and truely ready, even had time to redo the decals on his hog 20151209_080134 by Hayden Rowe, on Flickr this is just a test mock up to see if it worked, hense the rough job 20151209_080120 by Hayden Rowe, on Flickr 20151210_103712 by Hayden Rowe, on Flickr WOF time 20151219_124158 by Hayden Rowe, on Flickr Both passed, my was a very friendly pass.

I bought a used radio flyer on trade me for $50 and decided to make it look a bit better and give it to my boy for his birthday. One thing lead to another and now its a candy red low riding radio flyer

So kind of spent way too much on an original Japan market brochure for my car.... 32 pages of glorious early 80's awesome!

Well, Oldschool Nationals 2015 weekend was a hoot. Those that were there will know. Those that weren't there missed a long weekend of good mates, sweet roads (including gravel), hooning, boozing, yahooing. Holy hell was I surprised when prize-giving rolled around on Saturday night and the Eterna picked up Best Sedan. Shit the bed! There was a heap of other sweet Sedans there and it is honor to get the award. After driving the hell out of the car here is how it sits in the garage.

also, I got a wideband for fathers day. Care to comment? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28333-poo-mans-1981-mitsubishi-sigma-turbo/?hl=poo

So, I'd gotten the car, and needed to plot a course for what I wanted to do with it. I had to decide between 3 options. A full, back to original resoration (as you can see in the pics there'd been an attempt to make her look more like a Supra, rather than the XX she is). A fully modified, all out performance car, packing a worked 2JZ (NA), or a kind of middle path, with the car lightly modified, but fully able to be brought back to 100% stock. The middle way was the one I chose.... So I decided to theme my build as a modern interpretation of what I would likely have done to it IF I'd had one back in the mid-late 90's. So I started collecting parts.... here's the shopping list: Rabid Chimp intake kit, Cusco strut brace, King low springs, KYB gas shocks, Technafit brake and clutch hoses care of George at Raptor Racing, vintage style steering wheel (unknown brand), TRD vintage style gear knob, Rabid Chimp rear suspension brace, Whiteline sway bars front and rear, and that's about it! Meanwhile I considered what I would do regarding the body. As previously mentioned there were some less than perfect repairs that had been done in the past, but I wasn't quite ready for a full bare-metal restoration, so I decided that I'd get a repaint done, and have the repaired areas tidied up. I eventually (like when my kids have grown up) plan on doing a full strip and rebuild, but I figure what I've done should keep her well enought for the next 20 years, given a little care. I had to decide on what colour to go for, as I wasn't particularly enamoured with the red/black, and I'd always thought they'd looked sharp in white or silver. In the end though I decided that it'd be best to keep the colour standard. So in late 2011 I sent her off to GT Refinishers. It was great to deal with someone who understood the fact that I was fixing up an 80's Japanese car. Other places either just saw it as another job, or just really weren't interested. I'd been feeling a little undermotivated with the car and the build, but after getting it back from paint I was revved up, and really started to appreciate the colour, I don't think I'd have any other colour on her now! More to come soon!

One of my workmates has a Starion and has been hoarding parts. I was complaining to him that I get a heap of tyre shake if I spin the rear wheels. Now I've managed to get him to sell me a Nolothane bush kit and a short shifter. I just need to find the time to fit them.