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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/04/14 in Posts

  1. Just jump every time you need to use it
    3 points
  2. Its a shame that your bags cant lay frame.
    3 points
  3. We quite often discover things wrong with wheel mountings, studs too long / too short, slip on wheel spacers, things that the owners never disclose when they bring their cars in. Sometimes it's just a simple oversight. Sometimes they play ignorant. Ya can't take peoples word on anything so everything gets very thoroughly checked.
    3 points
  4. 2 points
  5. Oh and if your claim about having a high "surface resistance" was even possible then it would have the opposite effect to what you describe. The voltage is a constant so the higher the resistance means the bigger the load. So if you got a shock the current would be higher and you even deader. Voltage doesnt mean shit, the current is what kills you
    2 points
  6. As an electrician I can say that if you are getting shocks then the appliance is not earthed. Electricity is lazy and takes easiest way to ground (path of negligible resistance). So if you get a zap its because you are that easy way. So earth the drill and check all earths back to the earth peg. The voltage is NOT being induced by the magnetic fields. Its a small motor with minimal load, it cant happen. The insulation resistance of the motor is probably low mixed with a poor earth. If you have wired the place (dont care if you wired you first at 15 as it doesnt mean its been done right just that you have been potentially doing it incorrectly for ages) then be sure polarity is correct everywhere, that maximum earth resistance is less than .5ohm and that you have continuity. An rcd probably wont even work if your wiring is incorrect.
    2 points
  7. Go copper my car used to eat exhaust gastkets got copper ones made and have never had a problem since I used Gaspex in penrose
    2 points
  8. ive never seen that written on them before, and ive had a few sets. i would wager that they are exactly the same as a regular casting, and that wording is some sort of arse covering exercise by the manufacturer. like KK said, your option is to find a greybeard that worked at cheviot or knows why the wording was added and see if you have any joy there. the other possibility is to get them approved by the TAC, maybe if you could prove they are the same as one that doesnt have the writing on it, ie same casting thickness and material, they could be approved for use on the road. if you want to pursue that you need to email justin@lvvta.org.nz hes the guy that organises the TAC meetings. or just get some wheels that dont have the writing on them. slotted wheels can be used, if they comply with 2.3 (2) in here http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf good luck, tridens are the ultimate in wheels, im not sure why anyone bothered making any other style of wheel after perfection was achieved, haha
    2 points
  9. Screw getting rid of the cabin, make it the playboy mansion of the seas.
    2 points
  10. one point of this whole project, which is quite contradictory to boat ownership (and we are probably dreaming) is to spend very little on this thing. my brother doesnt have much spare cash (3 kids) and wants to spend most of the spare fun coupons on his car anyway. selling not an option yet, grandpa gave it to us and he would get the shits if we turned around and flicked it off to make $$. hes one of those old buggers who thinks everyone is out to get his valuables te bro is an engineer so we can fix the trailer no problem have already suggested a turbo TD27 with a straight pipe over the back as a volvo replacement. kind of want a rugged boat version of my old valiant. no cabin, flat black, too loud, shitbox looking thing, the opposite of what boaters usually want ha, should put a crappy rb20 with china turbo, RBNAVY REPREZENT
    2 points
  11. Discuss //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44865-dadams-73-ke26-discussion/?hl=ke26 Hi! After deciding that the old faithful 1200 wagon was way to far gone for me to attempt to save on my budget and skill level I decided to go pick up the next best thing, behold, the mighty ke26! Pick it up off a fellow oldschooler up in the 09 area, flew up, talked some shit, turned the key and drove back to wellington with zero dramas, so pretty much the best start you could wish for! Specs are that shes pretty much stock, will kinda. Has a big block 4k with a little head work, mild cam and Weber carb, which has around (at a guess) 10,000k on it from rebuild, 5 speed k50 box, 50mm blocks and lowered front springs with new shortened shocks. Shes no rocket ship but does go fairly well for a 4k. As it was when I got it.. Decided that I wasn't to keen on the 12's and white walls so decided to clean up some ssr star formula's I had in the garage. So out with a bunch of masking and a couple of tins of paint, a set of 165/50/14s and we're back in business. In the process also swaped it up from 4x110 to 4x114.3, so in went some ke30 front hubs and re-drilled rear axles.. Result Yea I know, need to lose another 40mm or so off height, but thats a story for another day...
    1 point
  12. Sounds like my car ticks some boxes there...it's a 1959 Austin A35. I should point out that it's not concourse condition, but I would say it's in pretty good shape. If it sounds like what you are after let me know Here's a couple of photos: \\
    1 point
  13. Being an instrument tech for last 4 years has ruined my electrical knowledge still if his so called high surface resistance is the best earth conductor its going to be a bit more than a tickle
    1 point
  14. I think a read recently also that the later model falcons, XE/XF onwards had a larger front swaybar standard. Went from 22mm to 25mm or somthing like that. Look into that for a possibly cheap upgrade. Using the XG/XH steering boxes is good too. They have a needle roller bearing in the top of the case instead of the useless bronze bush that wears in about 10,000km and gives all that slop when straight ahead.
    1 point
  15. My father fitted a subaru 1.8 flat four under the floor of a launch he built, worked OK and fitted under the floor with no hump or engine box required. Is there a decent sized diesel version of a subaru flat four?
    1 point
  16. Other way man lower resistance = more current drawn. Either way it doesn't matter you only need a milli amp across your heart to kill you.
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. Well Played Sir Always loved the yellow one and was shocked to see the black one with the same plate on display (make the assumption with the 3s power it was the same car) Bloody good work , Always loved those centreline wheels...........
    1 point
  19. Good to see these on here! your making me want to build another for track duties
    1 point
  20. Time to put the new engine together
    1 point
  21. Better get some turbos instead, worlds strongest wheels
    1 point
  22. got the head back on, blocks been painted, valves been lapped and stem seals replaced, new head gasket. next up finish cleaning up the timing cover, inlet mani, rocker cover and other alloy bits and start piecing back together. haven't touched the bottom end or gone overboard with it as my plan is to drive it with this engine for a year or two then fit a mx5 motor and deal with cert ect.
    1 point
  23. Depression post.. 50% of this build is on waiting for either parts/work to be done or pay day. Getting pritty tired of this but thats life. On the flip side in our easy 30degree weather in the bay I decided to polish my rim... for my car of course. Before After I got lazy and bought a set of T3 engine conversion mounts, got them cheap so thought why not. Mated a set of landrover rubber mounts (heres the end of my Toyota pureism) to complete the setup. My main set backs atm is just waiting for the engineer to readjust the valve clearances, 3 angle valve jobbie etc and the 2 month back order on the Toda oil pump gear! Getting my Coil overs organized next week and should have my J160 on its way by then too, Ditching my W57 for more ideal N/A ratios. EDIT: Oil pump gear is on its way! not sure what happened there but im not complaining.
    1 point
  24. We grump because we care. Fix sparks, keep building
    1 point
  25. Last pistons finally out, now to bore and hone any nicks etc...
    1 point
  26. At a guess I'm going to say the wiring was done by you and the whole building is a deathtrap
    1 point
  27. Lol. It can't be stored on the earth. The whole point of the earth is that it gets rid of any stray electricities that might escape. I think. Take a photo of the drill please. I want to ascertain that it is/is not suitable for the fab fails thread
    1 point
  28. cletus if you got given a free super-rotten car of a type you're not particularly passionate about, and haven't worked on before, that has to be a trailer pony, and could be used about as much as a track car, and has to live outside, and can sink with your investment/family onboard, what would you do with it?
    1 point
  29. http://www.sv3power.com/?page_id=371 For those who like their downdraughts
    1 point
  30. got the top hose issue sorted by running a new hose under the intake pipe. no more temperature issues! after avoiding it for so long, decided to have a too-too with the tune in the computer. i got myself an innovate MTX wideband to monitor the exhaust (which i rate highly BTW), and installed using only the best quality insulation tape. i initially did a seat of the pants tune, using the hand set to set what "felt" best. the results were far from ideal, and i ended up with a flatspot in the load map once i hooked the laptop up so did it again, and smoothed the curve out. i ended up dialling quite a lot of fuel out right through the range, especially under vacuum. the vacuum AFR's are all now around 13.5 where they should be, but ive left the boost AFR's at around 11.5. they should be around 12. still a bit nervous about leaning it out under boost! the change was amazing, smoother, crisper and faster too. no more black spark plugs either... here's how it ended up after a weekend stuffing around getting it right. doesnt look much, but took a looong time to get right! so all in all, its running heaps better, and i still need to go through the ignition timing yet too. and to prove its not just a garage ornament, i took it to Caffeine and Classics on sunday too.
    1 point
  31. ha. i dont even get that excited about boatery. every time i go on one, something bad happens. like the time i went on the ferry to waiheke and one engine shit itself and they couldnt steer it into the wharf or the other time when i was on the ferry and it hit the wharf so hard the guy with the motorbike fell over and broke his clutch lever or the other time when a mates dad bought a little boat and wanted to go for a test run, and i didnt want to go, but they convinced me, and it turns out the steering was backwards so it nailed the rock wall by the boat ramp. i was relieved because i expected him to stop. but he did not. and we ended up in the middle of mangere harbour doing half donuts while mates dad got used to wrong way steering. eventually it got water in the motor from doing half spins and wouldnt go any more. so we had to drift back to the wrong boat ramp cause the tide was going out and walk back to the car. then go back to my mates place and get a long rope to pull the boat over the 100 meters of soft mud with razor sharp feet slicing rocks under it exposed by the low tide. (mangere bridge for you local daves) or the time i went for a ride in a wakeboarding boat and the owner decided to do some barefoot skiing, and fell off the pole and dislocated his shoulder.
    1 point
  32. Bankruptcy and Masochism are two words that come to mind for boat restoration! Even by OS standards! haha
    1 point
  33. Gets a boat, first thing he changes are the tyres.
    1 point
  34. Check the batons that reinforce the hull. Often they arent glassed and prone to rot. Reckon most of the deck is toast? Hopefully the cabin itself isnt too bad as it looks nice.
    1 point
  35. got my tyres today, have had rims blasted and painted, not long now until chassis will be rolling again, have also cleaned gearbox up and started on drive shaft, have got new hanger bearing and u.j's on the way. also have started pulling down the engine to a short block to clean everything up and replace gaskets ect
    1 point
  36. would costs cover me driving up? nb: my citroen aint british persay, but is pre 1960 and was built in slough. hah
    1 point
  37. The people complaining aren't looking for work. Those of us working don't have time to complain. And this is OS, we're all full time workaholics (or something), otherwise we'd all have sweet rides that were all complete instead of a "projects" thread 18 miles long I wish I knew someone to fit the role, but saying that I'd have them working for me instead
    1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. Found this, screwed up and neglected in a box of parts that came with the bike. IMO this pic is better than any of the spares I got!
    1 point
  40. 1 point
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