Ogre

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About Ogre

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  • Birthday 30/10/1983

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  1. Ogre

    Floor Jack Oil

    ^Type F is pretty much the same as a universal tractor oil. Universal tractor oil has the friction modifier in it for the wet brakes. 10W hydro is really what you want but the normal run of the mill 46 hydro will do. Just dont want anything that has an EP additive, eg gear oil.
  2. Do this! Used to drive a boat we converted from 496 chev to FG barra and it pissed all over the chev. Gotta be one of the best jet boat engines ive driven with hands down! The barra was pretty much standard apart from alittle more boooooost.
  3. Just make sure she isnt going to get a mouthful of water though inlet after you do epic spins. Are those water cooled ex manifolds? Please do exhaust straight out with no baffle tanks etc. So much more badass!
  4. Buy heat exchanger and fit sand trap or you will be cleaning the POS all the time
  5. Right, i have failed WOF on these little fuckers on my lancer. Sweet as i thought, rip them out, put some new ones in. I thought wrong. They are staked in. Ive managed to press the old one out fine, hoping there may be a recess there for circlips. Once again, i was wrong. Whats the general idea with servicing these? Obviously its not easy to just go get a replacement drive shaft etc. A drive shaft specialist can do something. Surely this isnt terribly uncommon with alot of datsuns and other japs with the staked UJs? Cable ties perhaps? Your feelings on this subject matter much appreciated.
  6. Blatantly plagiarized from another site, but still good info: After seeing so many people asking about the engine swaps available in any of their mitsubishi cars i thought I would start a thread that could potentially become a sticky. There will be some things that i don't know and maybe some mistakes about some of the engines but I can update the original message with any information anyone wants to add. I'll start with the easiest and cheapest first and then you can work out what would be best for you car. Pretty much all of the mitsubishis on this site will allow for the same engines to fit in but there are a couple of small differences between the models that require a little tweaking. Engine options Carb 4g63 2L N/A Carb 4G52 2L Turbo Carb 4g54 2.6L N/A EFI 4g54 2.6L N/A EFI 4g54 2.6L Turbo EFI 4g63 2L DOHC N/A EFI 4g63 2L SOHC Turbo EFI 4g63 2L DOHC Turbo EFI 4g64 2.4L DOHC Turbo 4g54 This engine comes with a few potential differences Narrow bellhousing Wide Bellhousing Astron 1 = First gen of the 2.6 engine found in the early sigma and is most easily identified by rocker cover being flat from the back to the front of the engine Piston Type: Dished Compression Ratio = ??? Astron 2 = Second Gen most easily identified by the raised level at the back of the head. Piston Type: flat or valve relief design Compression Ratio: ?? There are multiple heads available for this engine with the later model Magna heads flowing the best of any of them but that kind of detail on every head would be best for a different thread. The biggest difference is between the Astron 1 and 2 with differences with the inlet and exhaust manifold shapes. Note for the 4-2-1 extractors for the 4g54 that suit the sigma/scorpion/Triton won't fit the galant/lancers unless the 2 pipes are on top of each other as they usually hit the steering box. The steel engine mounts which come with all the RWD engines will suit fine. The galant/lancer may require selecting between the sigma and galant rubber mounts to allow it to sit fine. Carb 4g54 2.6L N/A Flywheel Power output = 85 KW @ 5000 rpm Flywheel Torque output = 195NM @ 3000 rpm Original Vehicles = Mitsubishi Sigma, Scorpion, Magna and Triton Estimated Cost = $50-$300+ Good points:Simple, cheap, easy Bad points: Small power increase, carby system can be unreliable This would probably be the simplest and most affordable engine upgrade possible for any of the cars that don't have the engine as standard. To bolt into the sigma it's pretty straight forward and just sort out the minor wiring for the dizzy and starter motor. For the galants/lancers the clutch fan may require to be changed for some electric thermofans due to space restrictions or on the gc/gd you can just remove the radiator spacer. The easiest option is to go for a a RWD variant of this engine as the FWD from the magna needs to have the timing cover, water pump and inlet manifold need to be changed from the RWD version to fit anyway. EFI 4g54 2.6L N/A Flywheel Power output = 102 KW @ 4750 rpm Flywheel Torque output - 220 NM @ 4000 rpm Original Vehicles = Magna Estimated Cost = $200-$500+ Good Points: Cheap upgrade, affordable, better power and fuel efficiency Bad Points: Wiring can be a hassle, Some custom fabrication required. This option is using the Magna EFI inlet manifold and factory computer. To do this swap the throttle body to the opposite end as it makes it easier for the inlet piping. Also you can use this manifold on a Astron 2 head or can mod it to suit a Astron 1. Probably best to use the Magna head as it would typically flow much better then any sigma head. You can choose to use the factory wiring loom and computers or you can spend a little more make wiring a little easier by changing to a aftermarket computer. There are two different inlet manifolds available from the two different generations of Magna's. The TN/TP is the earlier and smaller manifold and plenum chamber but will fit into the galant/lancer much easier. The TR/TS model have the larger plenum but require the runner to be shortened to fit Galant/Lancer. Both will fit the Sigma. Draw Through Carb 4G52 2L Turbo Max Power 116.4 KW @ 5200 rpm Max Torque 235.3 NM @ 3200 rpm Original Vehicle = GH Sigma Turbo Estimated Cost = $500-$800+ Good Points: Straight bolt in engine Bad Points: Difficult to find, Often need work to get running, replacement parts difficult to find, narrow gearbox only This engine originally was from the original sigma turbo although very few actually still exist as complete factory. They come with a Single throat side draught Zenith-Stromberg carburetor and Garrett Air Research T03 turbocharger. This engine is a simple swap but only comes as a narrow block so only the 2L manual gearbox or any factory auto can be used. EFI/Draw Through Carb 4g54 2.6L Turbo Max Power = Varies depending on Modifications Max Torque = Varies depending on Modifications Original Vehicle = Overseas Starions (or sigma turbo running gear) Estimated Cost = $500-$(how big is your wallet) Good points = Good power vs cost, Bad Points = Carby can be difficult to tune, EFI more expensive The only vehicle that came with engine standard was the starion located overseas and are very hard to find over here. Usually people build them from the previously mentioned 4g54 engine. All of the equipment from the carb sigma turbo can be altered to suit this engine easily and is typically the cheapest option. The next step up is to go for the EFI option where you use the magna inlet manifold. The factory magna computer can apparently be used up to about 8 pound of boost but most people use this stage to upgrade to an aftermarket computer system. The exhaust manifold can be gotten from the sigma turbo (modded), 2.6L starion (note: this isn't to be confused with the locally delivered 4g63 starions). The other option for the exhaust is full custom manifold. 4g63 2l SOHC N/A Max Power = 75kw @ 5500rpm Max Torque = 157Nm @ 4750rpm Original Vehicle = Sigma/l200/l300/Scorpions(some had twincarb 4g63GS),Chariots. Estimated Cost = $300+ Good Points = This would probably be the simplest and most affordable engine upgrade possible for any of the cars that don't have the engine as standard.Narrow Gearbox)apparantly some l200s and l300s are wide,yet to be seen) Bad Points = Hard to get power over 150hp, hard to get high RPM, No sidedraft style bolt on manifold available.Standard carb is crap. EFI 4g63 2L SOHC Turbo Max power = 132 KW @ 5500 Max Torque = 214 Nm @ 3500 Original Vehicle = Mitsubishi Starion,Sigma GSR,Magna. Estimated Cost = $600+ Good Points = Good Upgrade potential, Wide Gearbox, factory turbo Bad Points = Poor factory electrical system, unreliable factory injection This is an option to be considered if you are looking for a bit of extra power and plan to do further upgrades in the future. It has a little less power than the 4g54 turbo but it is already in a RWD setup so fits into all of the RWD cars easily and the gearbox is stronger with a hydraulic clutch. The computer system is very dated and can be very unreliable due to it being 25 year old eighties electronics and also has a pretty crappy fuel injection system. Often replaced with an aftermarket computer and go to a multipoint setup. It has plenty of potential for upgrades such as the multi-point inlet manifold can be used from the Y2 sonata or L300 and the L300 head can bolt on and retain all the factory manifolds. Or the head can be replaced with VR4, EVO1-3 and sonata 2L DOHC heads but this requires a new custom exhaust manifold. Note - Rwd engine(eg starion/sigma) are wide block, FWD(eg sigma turbo/cordia) are narrow block EFI 4g63 2L DOHC N/A Max power = 102 KW @ 5800 (AMG 4g63 = 125KW @ 6750rpm) Max Torque = 180 Nm @ 4000 (AMG 4g63 = 191Nm @ 5000rpm) Original Vehicle = Hyundai Sonata Y3 94-98 (g4cp), Mitsubishi Galant (4g63) Estimated Cost = $500+ Good Points = Good Potential for upgrades, great torque curve Bad Points = Custom exhaust extractors, Narrow gearbox This engine is only available from the front wheel cars so this means narrow gearbox only. It bolts into any RWD Mitsubishi easily by just using the RWD 4g63 engine mounts found in the starions and also the l200 utes with the 4g63 N/A SOHC. There are a couple of difficulties modifications needed to the water pump, thermostat and inlet manifold but there is a large about of information available on the http://www.projectzerog.com/ website and forum. The full workshop Hyundai manuals can also be found on this site http://www.hmaservice.com/ so you work out all the wiring and computers. EFI 4g64 2.4L SOHC N/A Max power = 82 KW @ 4500 Max Torque = 193 Nm @ 3500 Original Vehicle = Hyundai Sonata Y2 88-93 (g4cs), L300 Van (4g64), NZ new Sigmas/Galants. Estimated Cost = $500+ Good Points = Good potential for upgrades, more torque then 4g63,Narrow Block. Bad Points = L300 engines hard to find in good condition, EFI wiring complexity This is really only an option to consider if you are itching for a bit of extra power and plan on in the future going to a twin cam turbo. It bolts into any RWD Mitsubishi easily by just using the RWD 4g63 engine mounts found in the starions and also the l200 utes with the 4g63 N/A SOHC. The extractors can be gotten kinda easily as they have the same bolt pattern at the SOHC 4g63 found in the L200 and L300 but the factory electrics have the typical complexity associated with factory computers. The biggest difference between the sonata and L300 engine is that the L300 is easier to put into the RWD configuration but does cost a bit more. The Sonata one requires swapping the throttle body and a magna thermostat housing. The full workshop Hyundai manuals can also be found on this site http://www.hmaservice.com/ so you work out all the wiring and computers. EFI 4g63 2L DOHC Turbo Max power = 148 KW @ 6000 Max Torque = 279 Nm @ 3000 Original Vehicle = Mitsubishi Galant VR4 Estimated Cost = $2000+ Good Points = Great power output, Bad Points = Narrow Gearbox, Popularity has driven the cost up, Mod’s required to fit, Custom exhaust manifold This engine is considered to be a great upgrade but it does have the price tag to go with it. It bolts into any RWD Mitsubishi easily by just using the RWD 4g63 engine mounts found in the starions and also the l200 utes with the 4g63 N/A SOHC. It is only a narrow gearbox though but you can use the bottom end from a starion and change the pistons to have a wideblock. It’s more drivable then the 4g54 but more expensive too. The upside to the populatity is that the potential is there for much more power due to the availability of plenty of aftermarket off the shelf parts. EFI 4g64 2.4L DOHC Turbo Max power = 200kW+ Max Torque = ??? Original Vehicle = Combination of vehicles Estimated Cost = $3000+ Good Points = Potential for big power Bad Points = Most expensive option This is probably one of the most expensive options possible for a 4 cylinder Mitsubishi engine but is also one with a lot of potential. This is pretty much the most expensive engine available for the Mitsubishi and few people actually have the balls to go for and engine like this. You can use a lot of off the shelf parts for this engine but you need to have the stroker crank which you can buy after market but it’s much cheaper to go for a sonata 2.4 or L300 2.4 bottom end with vr4 oversize pistons and the DOHC head from the Y3 sonata, vr4 galant or Evo 3. The biggest benefit of this combination is the benefit of the torque from the longer stroke and the benefits of the flow from the twin cam head. You can use the factory DOHC inlet manifolds but most choose to go custom due to already spending so much on the engine already. Pics: 4g54 Turbo in Starion 4g63 SOHC RWD in an EX (triggers project http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=13789) 4g63GS from GSR Sopporo in an EX (In my old EX http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=3136) 4g63 DOHC N/A RWD in a Sigma (quad throttlebody injection) 4g63 DOHC Turbo RWD in an EX (ke30s project http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=10955&hilit=lancer)