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Ogre

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  1. Ogre

    Floor Jack Oil

    ^Type F is pretty much the same as a universal tractor oil. Universal tractor oil has the friction modifier in it for the wet brakes. 10W hydro is really what you want but the normal run of the mill 46 hydro will do. Just dont want anything that has an EP additive, eg gear oil.
  2. Do this! Used to drive a boat we converted from 496 chev to FG barra and it pissed all over the chev. Gotta be one of the best jet boat engines ive driven with hands down! The barra was pretty much standard apart from alittle more boooooost.
  3. Just make sure she isnt going to get a mouthful of water though inlet after you do epic spins. Are those water cooled ex manifolds? Please do exhaust straight out with no baffle tanks etc. So much more badass!
  4. Buy heat exchanger and fit sand trap or you will be cleaning the POS all the time
  5. ^This. Its a multigrade but only just. Weirdo Euros...
  6. Full syn 75w85 gl4 oil + all the other things everyone has suggested
  7. 4g63 SOHC , bolts in, even bolts to to the gerbox you have but would suggest getting a 5speed to go with it. Easy as. Many people on here have done it before.
  8. ^ I totally understand where you are comming from and pretty much agree. I need to take my oil salesman hat off sometimes... I must say that i have found going to a mineral/semi does seem to fix some issues, and thats what i have recommended a number of times to people that arnt the usual retards when it come to engines etc. The other thing is changing oil brands and grades all the time. If you change to a diffferent grade or brand then the new oils additive package will strip the buildup from the other brand inside your engine and this can do all sorts of weird shit. Often will take 2 or 3 changes with the same brand etc for it to settle down.
  9. I dont want to get into this, but 5w40 and 15w40 are no different in viscosity in an operating engine. At start up at -10 degrees maybe, but after 1 min there is no difference. There is no way that you should go to anything thicker than a 40 in a modern engine like that. From factory they are made to have a 30 yeah? I would stick with what the engine was made for. What ever the issue is it has nothing to do with the oil. The only thing changing the oil specs will do is either lesson or worsen the issue to a small extent.
  10. Have you always used the same brand and grade of oil? Penrite, Valvoline are crap. All the second Tier oils are, anything thats from Ozzy is a re-refined oil. Ie, second hand. Eww. Put a 5w30 Castrol, Mobil, Total or somthing in it. See what happens. Does the oil smell like fuel at all? Does it seem to use oil after a longish drive and not so much on shorter drives?
  11. Yeah this is cool. "292 degrees advertised and 13.5mm" is what i had on a cam with this engine. Bigfoot has it in his lancer now. Was a good cam. Plenty more top end and was still perfectly drivable and didnt drink fuel.
  12. No problem. The parts i have are the tan interior im pretty sure. "Megatowers" I used a bit of 75mm long 100x4mm tube, took about an hour to weld, clean up and paint. Doing this also means i can achieve a shit load more slam if need be. I recon 50mm long would be more than enough even. If the car is FULL of people and stuff it actually gets so low after bumps that those tiedown loops next to the lower rear arm location point hit the ground. Bits of road and sparks flying. Pretty LOL but probably not the best thing. Thats why i think 50mm would be better.
  13. Oh this is fantastic!!! How much travel do you have in the rear before bump stop? There is an easy fix with modifying the top of the strut tower. Did it on my XE and made the thing alot nicer to drive. If you find any louvers let me know, been after a good one for a while. Ive got an XF parts ute if you need any little parts. I pretty much cant use and body panels or interior on the XE.
  14. Lancers are bloody narrow, the colts mind you are abit wider. There are two easy options i can remember that would be an upgrade. 10bolt sigma wagon diff. Are l200s 10 bolt coz that would be good too. The rear axle out of a libero. Turbo ones are LSD, but i think they are an 8bolt centre? Pretty much if its the right width it will work. Only other thing to consider are ratios and how difficult it will be to fit the driveshaft to it etc. leaf rears are easy.
  15. http://www.sigma-galant.com/
  16. Some drums have two threaded holes that you can use. Screw bolts in and it pushes the drum off. I guess you could drill two holes, and thread it with a bottom tap and that could work. Kinda last resort stuff though.
  17. I really suggest getting a multimeter. Learn/watch some videos on how to use it and what things mean and it will serve you well in the future. With older cars and the old wireing it is a great skill to have. Learning to put in a head unit is propably one of the best ways to start. There isnt much you can stuff up.
  18. Yeah sounds good, fire things back up for the start of summer. We can carry on with it being the last Thursday of each month, with it being this Thursday. Perhaps to short notice and we can do this first one abit latter? What about venue? Go with burger fuel on Te Ngae, or somewhere new? Lets hear your feedback guys so we can make this work.
  19. Interested to see how the deeper pot works, been thinking about using another cylinder to make a pot too. I dont like the brake rotor idea. Every time i go to the rubbish dump i take old cylinders back home lol. Also wondering what effects diameter and length of the secondary burn chamber has.
  20. The oil thinning out as everything gets hotter is really the only issue. Im yet to come up with a really good simple way to regulate flow. Mines pretty crude and uses alot of oil. But i have unlimited waste oil so i dont care. Alot of other guys get really obsessed with economy. All i want is max heat and not bellowing smoke. To light it i just get some paper or something with alittle kero, once there is some heat in the system it slowly winds up. To make a really simple one, all it is is a bowl, a top plate with a few small holes. A pipe with holes in the side to reburn the hot gases and thast it. The rest is all about some way of transferring heat or whatever it is you want to do. There are some good videos on youtube too.
  21. Thought i had a bunch of bookmarks but no. Here is a link to one of them though http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-week-build-your-own-waste-oil-burning-garage-heater.678222/ http://www.dripfedwasteoilheating.com/ http://www.garageplansetc.com/waste-oil-heater-plans.html http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=230930
  22. Ive run mine on kero/diesel/petrol concoction for an hour or so as well, AND OMFG!!! Half of it had turned cherry red.
  23. They use shit all oil, like 500ml an hour or something. When i was "tuning" mine i found the flames would "blip" out the sides like that too until i starting covering up the holes in the base plate above the pot. Seems to draw the air through better in the flame tube. I need a better flu like yours has. Its really important to have the flu as big and long as possible to get the draw going. Ill post up some links to websites about making them when i have the time. There is a fair amount floating around. The dimensions of everything dont seem too crucial. If you can get your head around the whole fuel to air mixture and tuning the size and amount of holes in the tube/base plate which im sure most on here would understand, its easy. I might get mine cranked up this weekend and take some pics/vids. Motivated to have a play with it again now.
  24. Ive built one of these also, pretty much exactly the same as the above. Have placed a radiator in it to heat water for my hot tub. Kinda works, still improving it. Amazing how much heat you can get out of these things and fairly simple to build. Sounds like a bloody jet plane taking off which is a huge bonus.
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