Roman Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 Oh mannnnn that would be amazing! Thanks ill collect some bits and report back. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 2 hours ago, ajg193 said: Is that with a 3D printed intake manifold? If so, how does it cope with the heat? So far so good. Printed with HIPS material that has glass transition temp over 100 deg. And then 50% infill and really thick walls so its basically solid. It took nearly 3 days to print super slow and hot so layers are strong. In hind sight I should have printed it thin and wrapped in carbon. Would have been quicker and stronger. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 This is so good. Probably another 5-10hp+ in some headers and zaust, buy a box of bends and make spaghetti/mess 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperblade Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 6 minutes ago, Spencer said: This is so good. Probably another 5-10hp+ in some headers and zaust, buy a box of bends and make spaghetti/mess Set of TRD headers on TM for the low price of $1000... Claims 7.4kW(10ps) improvement... https://www.trademe.co.nz/2814713140 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 That's funny I cant see any of the gold plating? Or the diamond encrusted manifold nuts? 3 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 trd tax 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 That 7.4kw is before we bin the cat and fit a 3" zaust! 10KW gainz. On a serious note though the cam phasing will work better again once you open up the exhaust side somehow, especially the headers. Oh and offer that guy $100 for that TRD manifold. 5 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 Surely OS has a friendly wizard who will make you a header for some small change, that TRD one is pretty simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 @kpr and @_Matt are wizards with the metal gluesticks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 I can apply a lot of zappy poo and hope it holds together 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 <insert pic of @kyteler's tattoo> 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 54 minutes ago, Spencer said: On a serious note though the cam phasing will work better again once you open up the exhaust side somehow, especially the headers. Yeah I reckon too. At 6000rpm it looks like somewhere around 90% VE. So if you could reduce backpressure and have an actual tuned length 4-1 or 4-2-1. Then we might be up to say... 95hp at wheels haha. It looks like the shit heap 4-1 stub thing is literally just to get exhaust into the cat converter ASAP. It looks like the prius one is a bit better maybe. Maybe I should just buy that $500 engine... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 It should be a pretty easy exhaust to make, as there's nothing down the middle except exhaust! No driveshaft or other stuff in the way. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 Space savers to go on the rear for drag day? 3 nuts per wheel instead of 4 :p ice on the ITBs? Rear and passenger seat removed 1/4 tank of fuel remove the battery and start with a jumper pack? lower the front tyre pressure to get a better contact patch and increase traction 4 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 It only has 155 wide tyres on it, they are basically a space saver already hahaha. I've got my lithium battery I can fit which saves about 10-15kg depending on original battery weight. intake temp doesnt matter too much compared to air temperature on the day but the printed parts also dont carry much heat. low tank of gas, and seats out for sure. My power hasnt actually started tapering off that much at high rpm, its just that it valve bounces like crazy so I need to be exactamundo on gear changes or I'll get super penalized by low rpm into the next gear. But previously rev limit was 6400rpm or something like that, so shifting a whole 1000rpm+ extra will be great. It's easy enough to wire in a shift light so will do that. 3rd gear goes to 172kph at 7200rpm so there will only be two gear changes happening on the day! Last time this did a 2.5 second 60foot, with a decent jump off the line just sluggy through the rest of 1st. This has steel wheels on it at the moment, I've got a bid on some 14x5 alloys which will hopefully be a little lighter maybe. This was my best run from last time. Left lane obviously haha. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 Are stiffer valve springs a valid option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 Chuck some washers under them. Ghetto grind the cams while you're at it. 5 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 See how much a set of new genuine ones are. They do wear out and loose their tension. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Yowzer said: Chuck some washers under them. Ghetto grind the cams while you're at it. Legit what I did with a lawnmower engine back in the day. Shimmed springs and arc welded then filed cams. /Ling 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 It might be the cam chain tensioners having a hernia. It's fairly violent sounding whatever it is. I've never replaced any of them because I'm a scumbag. Its such a dick punch to replace tensioners and chain, that I'd rather just take the motor out to do it. In order to do anything with cams or springs I'd need to do this, and CBF levels are very high. If this motor has to come out it wont be the same one going back in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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