Roman

Romans 2005 Toyota Echo

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@Muncie I've looked at that in the past as something to do for a bit of a laugh once I've got a shed and a hoist. 
It looks like it will work, these cars both have a C series toyota box. 
So ideally you could fit the 6 speed in there with it too. But if not you could swap the bellhousing over and use the echo box. 
But it would be a very tight fit. It would be fun to tune a VVTLI engine though so I might just buy something with a 2ZZ in it at some point. 

In other news I've decided that factory ECU sucks. So working towards chucking the link in it.
So I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out of it. So I can make a small patch loom so its reversable to factory ECU. 

I cant for the life of me find an ECU pinout for the 2NZ ECU though so I've been going through making one up. 
I've just got a few things left to figure out (triggers, circuit opening relay, some lights on dash) then should be able to fire it up without much trouble.

I found a guy that rallies a 2NZ engine in an EP70 starlet for many years, he says factory motors can go 7500rpm for a long time before the rods explode. 

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Butchered the shit out of an ECU to make an adapter, has been a learning experience but should hopefully work ok. 
Once I've figured out where everything needs to go I'll maybe pot it in polyurethane or epoxy or something. 

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It's not easy trying to figure out what's what without a pinout though. 
Like it's easy finding injectors coils, IACV and that sort of thing. 
But I cant seem to make sense of where it gets the key on 12v supply from yet. As stupid as that sounds.
Since things like the fan and fuel pump relay pull to ground on the ECU they all show 12v when the key is on.
Once I've found the triggers and the power supply it should be fairly easy to power it up.
But Toyota ECU seems to spread the supply and grounds around a bit more than aftermarket ECU does.

I found a wiring diagram for a 1NZ engine that should be similar enough to work it out from.
I think I'll make an Alpha-N tune for it first while I gather more data to make the modelled fuel equation work. (MAF and fuel injector settings) 
This will be a good project to finally use my USB oscilloscope. Will be interesting to try the scope method to find injector deadtimes.
 

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Ive ended up finding there are 3 different ecu plug types for this engine. That above looks to be for early ones. Mine is last of that shape echo and has plugs that are 4 pins deep not 2.

Then the next shape after this has different loom plugs again with these fancy looking 2 big connectors. 

Im slowly getting there but it will be a bit more fun once I get the power figured out and its process of elimination for IO.

Its interesting that toyota ECUs have the stop lights wired to ECU. Maybe for upping idle speed if the brake booster is affecting it? 

 

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my 20v junk has the same thing with  the brake lights wired to ecu.   the late model stuff doesn't let you brake an accelerate at the same time. so no line locks in ya new hilux. I assume that wasn't the reason in the 20v tho, since the brakes would overpower the 20v with ease

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Looking at the pinouts it shows that theres an alternator "M" pin which goes to the ECU which is something new to me. 

It looks like this is a PWM signal that shows how much load is on the alternator, so that's cool! 
My other car has a vitz alternator on it but I think it's an earlier 3 pin one. But I might swap it over to one of these too.
As this will be great for keeping the idle stable as I can use electrical load as a load axis on the idle speed controller. 
It's always been annoying to turn on the headlights etc and have the rpm dip on my other car. Because of quite a light flywheel.

It looks like these ones possibly dont need the dash light to energize themselves either as they've got more smarts inside. 
And they regulate the voltage based on engine bay temperature so charge to a lower voltage when engine bay is hot. 
So it doesnt boil the stuff in the battery. I didnt know there was anything fancy about newer alternators but there you go. 

Sounds like some of the ones that are newer again are ECU controlled for how much current they draw too.
So they use feedback from the M pin to regulate the load based on conditions. 
So it will load it up heaps when you are on the brakes but if cruising along on light throttle it'll reduce the charging voltage to reduce parasitic load a bit.
Pretty cool I might see if I can find one of those alternators as it would be fun to play around with.
 

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12 hours ago, Roman said:

Its interesting that toyota ECUs have the stop lights wired to ECU.

Is it something to do with cruise control? Maybe to figure out if there's a mismatch between the cruise control brake switch and the brake light switch.

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10 hours ago, V8Pete said:

Is it something to do with cruise control? Maybe to figure out if there's a mismatch between the cruise control brake switch and the brake light switch.

Yeah that would make sense! 
Not sure if these ever had it though. 

I've definitely notice in my other car that if you are coming to a stop with a low idle and the booster gulps some air or whatever it does, the car would sometimes stall. 
So might relate to that perhaps. 
Either way I guess it's nice that the wiring is already there.

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Nitrous would get this down the line alitrle faster if you have access? 

Also with the G4x could you get some larger injectors for cheap (wrecker maybe) and run e85 with lots of timing? 

From memory 2AZ injectors from a rav or camry are larger

330cc for 2AZ

200 or 220cc for the NZ engines 

Id also take the rear muffler off

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I've got good CC rating and injector deadtime data for Altezza injectors, and I've got 5-6 sets of them here. 
So that would probably be my go-to if bigger injectors. But they have a different plug. I guess I could repin them but for the moment it's nice to be able to plug factory ECU back in.

I fixed something in my wiring that wasnt right, and now I think the circuit opening relay is only working while cranking. 
But it works fine with factory ECU.

It looks like the FC pin on the ECU is what I need to find. But I'm not sure if it pulls the relay to ground or sends out 12v yet. 




 

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Haha not sure if E85 is going to be of much use. 

After a bit of a muck around with the fuel pump and wideband wiring but I got this enough together for some Alpha N doorts with normal airbox etc on it.

MAF used just for logging, surprisingly seeing an increase in airflow above the factory RPM limit. Think it gets to some resonance or something as it starts getting rowdier. 
Maybe it's just valve bouncing or something haha.

Havent started looking at VVTI table yet but will be interesting to see if it changes much on this engine.Capture.PNG.97320aa5f19d73d53efbe895a4878bff.PNG
 

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Hi Dave, could this be the beginning of an NZ race series for Echo/Yaris/Vitz. If so, I approve. Please respond with graphs

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Haha that would be awesome. You can get one with sub 100,000km for 2-3 grand. pretty sweet. 

I got the VVTI working and went out to test the different cam angles to see what gives best full throttle airflow. 
Surprising results! 

(Colour scale is cam advance, red is 40 deg and blue is 0) 

cam.thumb.png.0b552b9e4c905540c50471f8b2d583e5.png

I was hoping there would be a more useful sweep of cam angle in the rpm range it'll be doing at the drags, but looks like zero advance gives best overall. 

Down low below peak torque the situation reverses but the benefit doesnt look amazing. 
It was actually hilarious how slow it became with lots of cam advance at high rpm. 

My theories are that either the exhaust is so restrictive that high back pressure makes cam overlap a problem. And / or the restrictive intake generates pressure drop which exaggerates the restrictive exhaust and pulls intake charge back out. 

Will be interesting to see if changes to intake or exhaust will help make cam advance more useful.

Maybe it needs some silvertop ITB.

I've also still got no idea why the airflow ski jumps up like that, at high rpm. 
I think it might just be that it gets turbulence in the tiny MAF pipe or something.
Will compare it against lambda readings and see if there's actually more airflow or its just a bad MAF signal.

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