Romans 2005 Toyota Echo

[cletus]

Valve bounce makes a terrible noise. I had a valiant that would do it at about 4800rpm . I was trying to impress a girl one night and I used to shift just as it made the noise, she thought I couldnt drive and was graunching gears 

 

It was auto...

[Roman]

Tyre situation. 
Currently have fitted 155/80/13. These are some random shitters from Pick a Part after someone slashed all of my Bridgestone tyres trying to steal them.

These are just under 10kg per corner for steel wheel + tyre.

I figured this would be quite a small rolling diameter. I couldnt seem to find anything in 13" with a lower profile in a narrow width. 
But: 



Turns out its remarkably close to a 205/50/15. A 195/50/15 is actually smaller overall diameter.
Go figure.
However I have some 205/50/15 Yokohama Advan AD08Rs gathering dust in the garage.
Just that one of the tyres got a gash in it so I parked them up and put R888 on the Carina instead.

The only catch is that just these tyres are 10kg each, as they're super stiff sidewall.

Hmmmmmmmmm

Might try find some light 15x6 or something like that and put just a pair on and bring them along.

[Roman]

Got some wheels with shitty tyres for cheap
14x5.5, hopefully they're light.



I've been working on the tune a bit more and I think I'm about there with the full throttle stuff. 
Since I'm rev limited I've printed some longer trumpets with correct bolt spacing for Silvertop trumpets.
So far so good, will maybe go a little longer again as I've still got a bit of space.
I'll reprint the manifold and trumpets in black later on though so they dont stick out like dogs balls in a dirty engine bay haha.
Next time I'll carbon wrap the manifold part as although it's survived fine so far I'm still a bit nervous about it breaking.
Trumpets will be fine but might make some out of just carbon later on maybe.



I ended up smashing a whole heap more ignition timing into it and it's loved it.
It's made it way punchier on/off the throttle. It's now lots of fun to drive aggressively, and downshifts are great with a dab of throttle.
No knocking on 98 even when it's well past MBT.

At cruising because there's so much throttle area and it needs so little hp to trundle along.
It felt like the cruising powerband is all stuffed into the tiniest amount of throttle movement with the quads.
So to try span this out a bit I've made it run progressively leaner more towards zero throttle and also added a lot more cam advance everywhere at part throttle.
This way it likes staying with the throttle a bit more open for the same amount of air coming in, so it's a bit less twitchy.

I took it on a drive today to Tokoroa and back for a work trip and got somewhere around 4.6l/100km give or take.
Not 100% accurate but it would be within say 10% plus or minus.

I've been learning a fair bit by spending some time tuning Alpha N and ITB setup for the first time properly.
Its been fun.
Firstly doort noises are about 95% dependent on cam overlap. 
More overlap = more noise pretty much!
Retard the came and doorts go away.
I think this explains why some people have fitted ITB and been disappointed by the lack of noise from them. It's a remarkable difference, especially at part throttle.

Its also been interesting observing how ignition timing and cam timing both seem to work together more than I expected.
I guess if you have conservative ignition timing, the gas is still expanding when it's being pushed out of the exhaust and lingering in the cyl. 
So if you have cam overlap it's going to try push out the intake as well. So it limits the amount of fresh air that can come in. 
But then if you advance the ignition timing, you get this happening less. So you can have more overlap without downsides.

And god, isnt this thread just awful without any doort noises to go with it. 
Will get onto it haha
 

[Roman]

Also managed to get almost all of the bottom end back with some extra ignition timing and probably to a lesser extent the slightly longer trumpets. 

Forget the numbers but the shape of the change in lines is legit also according to fuel table.

I think with some non retarded driving it'll have a 16 second quarter in it without too much issue.
Hopefully the acceleration doesnt rip my face off.
 

[Spencer]

Have you printed some headers yet?

[Roman]

Haha nah! 

Next time I'm up in Auckland though I'm gonna have a scout around at Pick a Part and see if I can find a manifold to pillage though.
I've been keeping an eye out on Trademe etc but nothing at a good price as of yet.

[kws]

I love this thread. True trial and error modification at its best. 

Keen to see what happens you open up the exhaust too. 

[Roman]

 

[bigfoot]

Makes cool honda noises

[fuel]

holy crap that sounds amazing! you can dort right passed the po-po and they are going to have no fkn idea where that Honda is.

[M Night Shamalayan]

What the fuck hahahhahaha. 

Incredible

[Roman]

This is pretty good fun to money ratio 



Should have about 500% more grip haha.

In other news.

This upgrade spring set shows that it works for 1NZ and 1ZZ engines

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brian-Crower-BC1330-Single-Valve-Springs-Kit-for-Toyota-Scion-1ZZ-FE-1NZ-FE-/201314439693

Buuuutttt 1ZZ engine apparently has stiffer springs from factory. So might be a cheap way to cure my rpm issues, is go steal some 1ZZ bits.

Have read some other stuff though and it says 1NZ/2NZ dont valve bounce by 7000rpm and factory springs even work ok for bigger cams.
So maybe it's my timing chain and tensioners having a hernia. 
Which I should probably replace anyway 

 

I DONT WANT TO

[AllTorque]

Timing chains do stretch on these, especially if not serviced well. They aren’t hard to do in place. Just watch out for the timing marks on the cam pulleys as there are a few.

Keep up the good dorts.

[Bling]

The clip is much better at 2x speed, just sayin'  

[a.craw4d]

Don't know if you can google and find it but in the latest engineering news magazine there's a nz company developing high end race engine stuff. They 3d printed the intake runners to fit between a profile cut ali flange and their off the shelf throttle bodies. Epoxyed the inside surface to seal it then tested it to 100psi. Fairly sure it was only 2mm wall thickness with like 3mm thick ribs.

Remembered it when you mentioned 3d printing and carbon wrapping.  I'll try find the article today.

This could well be the future of oldschool.

[a.craw4d]

Hopefully you can read this.

[a.craw4d]

[Roman]

Hah very cool! Never heard of Ultem 1010 before. 

In other news, I've heard rumours but never seen it done till now. Look how well a 2ZZ fits in these. Glorious! 
 

[kyteler]

2ZZ no shit? 

[Roman]

Wheels and tyres on. Ride height that would make @ajg193 beam with pride.



At first the new setup was very dissapointing as they still skidded up super easy off the line - but it turns out this was just getting all the marbles off from the last time they were used at a trackday. 
They got much better after a bit of a scrub through some backroads and a bit of temp in them. 
It's now got hugely more cornering grip, more grip from standstill, but there's still problems with getting off the line.
 
It now either bogs quite heavily, or, it spins up the left hand side wheel. Then once it's spinning you have to back right out of it to get it back.
Both options are slow. boooo. I dont have the budget or will to live needed for an LSD install.

Being primarily an ECU weirdo my first thought goes to setting up launch control for it, so it can cut cylinders until it gets grip again while staying on full throttle.
But you can never fix a physical problem with software. only band aid it. So forget that for now and fix the physical problem first.

I think it spins front left because of the motor and fatty driver on the right hand side of the car.
The very soft factory springs exaggerate this imbalance.
I've been thinking about how I might be able to even up the grip. 
First I was thinking maybe I could preload the front swaybar. The links arent adjustable but it would be possible to use some shims under and over the swaybar bushes to rebalance it. 

Then I was thinking that when the car launches, if the front left tries to lift its the rear right that resists it. 
So maybe I could put a spacer on the right rear spring to preload it some more. 

Then thinking further... Maybe I could just fuck around with tyre pressures instead and forget all that haha.
Will see if I can get it more even just with pressures, then look at next easiest option. 
It might be that this all pretty much just goes away with some stiffer springs. 

Also these have quite long rear shocks, I might have a fossick around in the parts bin at Dads place and see if there are stiffer substitutes of a suitable length.
If a stiffer rear shock could stop the front lifting until its up to say 30kph then it would probably be problem solved.

Also, will make a canbus dash again learning from stuff from Carina. 
For starters I've just got simple communication going, so sending stuff both ways and testing it works. 
I'm using the Instant Fuel and Driven Speed values to get a L/100km figure that I can import back into the ECU logs. 
So CAN ANV1 with a reading of 612.6 means 6.126 L per 100km.
Handy for trying some different settings to find best economy.
But will add a screen and some nerdy features soonish.