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Romans 2005 Toyota Echo


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12 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Is it the same engine as in the BB (I could look.... but meh) because @Slacker_Sam. fitted a supercharger kit to one of his BBs. It goes well and makes all the right sounds.

Yeah same as a BB. 

Dont get me wrong the supercharger is a good easy solution for these cars to get a bit more power out of them. Certainly better than a 6000rpm limited NA motor with factory ECU.
The gains from water meth injection to cool the air charge are incredible!
But then it's annoying to have to keep a tank topped up.

@87creepin 205hp is a big number! Hopefully I can make 3/4 of that.

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51 minutes ago, Roman said:

Also, my plan to use good tyres as a poor mans LSD hasnt worked too well. 
There isnt much weight over the front left so it spins it up real easy which is annoying. 
So will have to make a start on getting that other box sorted.

Got a welder? just weld up the open diff :p

Can you move any weight in the bay around to help get more even weight distribution over the front tyres?

Open for a front splitter? for more down force (not great for take off obviously)

Did you work out how to get vvti working?

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VVTI is technically working now, it was just a jammed locking pin in the pulley that was stopping it from working. 
But I'm leaving it disabled because otherwise I'll hit valves into pistons again... I will build a V2.0 motor on the side using the earlier engine that bolts to the gearbox correctly, and has the correct valve cutouts. 
Then swap it in with the LSD gearbox I'll put together on the side as well. I've still got the notchy gearbox in it, so I can work on my (hopefully) good one separately and get LSD fitted. 
If it was a RWD car I'd be more inclined to just lock it, but since you have to pull the whole box apart anyway, may as well jam an LSD in there.

Yeah it's only at low speed where wheel spin is an issue, so really needs mechanical fixes not aero. 
There's not much weight that can be moved around. 
If I can fit some shims under/over the right rear spring, it will shift the weight forward onto the front left.
Or maybe preload the front swaybar with some shims on one side.


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2 hours ago, Spencer said:

Best project on oldschool :)

LSD is the only way with a light front tugs, will be all sorted after that.

For sure a decent plate lsd and sticky rubber will transform the car, in the dry once above ~30kph my honduh will pretty much accept any throttle postition in any gear with whatever steering angle you wish to apply without a hint of wheelspin. 

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On 21/05/2021 at 21:39, Roman said:

I converted to manual rack haha. 

Does this mean you now have an unconventional belt run? Occasionally if you have pulley diameter which is near to belt free span length (just a pair of pullies not 3 triangulated) harmonic disasters can happen, I have seen early evos repeatably shred a brand new power steer at a certain rpm on a modified belt run. 

May or may not be related to your bolt coming undone rather than just an rpm thing. 

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Yes! That could be relevant. 
The power steer ran on its own belt, so removing it didnt make a difference. 
But this motor never had an alternator, or any other accessories. so its got a custom bracket for an alternator only.
The non hybrid motors go crank > alternator > waterpump  > aircon pump. 
So a lot more belt wrap and belt length. 

The alternator bracket that @Stu made for me is nice and sturdy (thanks again) however my tensioner arrangement is really crap currently. 
I've just fitted a fresh pulley and bolt, lots of loctite that I'll let sit for 24+ hours. Have also hopefully done up a bit tighter than last time, with an extension bar on.
If this keeps happening it might be a reason why I need to consider going to the earlier motor sooner than later. (As it will need belt for waterpump > alternator > idler)


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15 hours ago, cletus said:

/or just drill and lock wire the bolt to one of the threaded holes  

I would recommend against that one (althought it was my first thought too).

I doubled the RPM of my TF125 and it started vibrating the exhaust bolts out.

I lock-wired them, but then they still loosened just a fraction, and everything chatters without being able to come all the way off which totally fucks all the threads and mounting faces.

Cletus patented locking device looks like a very good solution though.

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I reckon a camera in there would be key to see if its engine harmonics or the belt/pulley setup harmonics causing the issue if that makes any sense.

Maybe you are in need one of the most misunderstood and popular internet shit fight topics the harmonic dampener front pulley.

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I took it for a trundle this morning, nothing crazy on RPM because I didnt want to stuff another pulley straight away if it was going to.
But I figure while the gas level was low I'd go weigh it again at the dump.
I've taken a few extra bits out, but then also changed the wheels/tyres.
I'd like to get a more accurate idea of current power figure as I've only been guessing what to input into virtual dyno, based on last time I weighed it.
I figured it was probably around 830kg now.

However without driver, low tank of gas it's 870. Which is about same as last time, even though I've taken more stuff out and there's less gas. :scratch:
So these wheels and tyres must have added a bunch of weight back. Maybe the 1500 motor is a smidge heavier too.
I cant remember if I was still on the factory steel wheels when I took it there the first time. But the 13" steels are massively lighter.
I will do some checks to see how heavy Reflexes are to the 14" china wheels.
Definitely feel a lot heavier. But semi slicks are pretty heavy too compared to a normal tyre.

So that's stink news because it means with 32 litres of gas to fill it back up, it's 894kg which is way over what I need/want it to be.

However the good news is this means my actual engine power figures are better than expected.
Updating the weight and virtual dyno figure now shows it is somewhere closer to 135-140hp at the wheels. 
Which I think makes sense given it's up to 66% duty cycle on 2ZZ injectors at 55psi.

So good news in the motor department but bad news overall.
Because it would have been easier to keep improving the motor than it is to lose the weight needed to get the power/weight to where I would like it to be.

13x5.5" steel wheels with 155s are ~12kg each 
14x6.5" china wheels with direzzas are ~15kg each 
14x6.5" Reflex with R888R are ~17kg each

R888R are 8.1kg each in that size.
Direzza are 7.7kg each in same size. 

So this means 
China wheels are 7.3 kg each 
Reflex are 8.9kg each. 

So can potentially ditch 6.4kg worth of wheel weight for "free" by putting R888 on my other wheels.
Neither of the sets of 14" wheels are particularly light.

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