Popular Post Roman Posted May 28, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted May 28, 2021 This chapter is called: I blew up my motor but shit that was good . So the VVTI issue. I realized that I would be able to get the front plate off the VVTI pulley, and then hopefully wiggle free the spring and the locking pin without removing anything else. Thankfully it worked! Then put that front plate on, and done. Then fire the motor up, advance the cam 5 degrees - success! The cam is moving, finally. Excellent. However - with more advance I ended up hitting valves into pistons - at around 20 degrees advance. Bummer! This motor must have smaller valve cutouts than the non hybrid engines I guess. I should have checked this, rookie mistake. So in some ways it was good that the locking pin was stuck, otherwise I probably would have done this on day one instead of lots of fun doorting around. It doesnt sound catastrophic, I dont think any valves have broken off. But the motor turns over like it's got no compression now. So probably tweaked the valve heads. But it's not crunchy sounding and it turns over freely. If anything I'm a little dissapointed that it's come to a fairly inglorious end, rather than sent to valhalla at 8800rpm blaze of glory. The options from here once the head is fixed or replaced: -Keep as is, run with no VVTI (boooo) -Cut bigger reliefs into the pistons so full VVTI can be used (hooray) but slightly less compression thanks to cutouts (boo) This all sounds like a bit of a downer, but my general mood right now is I'm fizzing about what an awesome success this all was. As a proof of concept, and a reasonably cheap project to keep me entertained this has been completely excellent. What I've learned is that there's no way I'm going to have the discipline to keep the revs on this motor below 8k when it loves to still rev up past that. So it would have been a matter of time until rods exited block. Also since I now know that I will have to remove pistons for machining some cutouts, I can replace rods at the same time with cheap stronger ones. This gearbox is a bit clunky and it could really do with an LSD. So while it's all apart for LSD install I can see if the shifter forks are a bit beaten up or something, and replace with parts from my old box which is buttery smooth to shift. So I've learned some stuff that would necessitate engine/box removal regardless. There will probably some slow progress for a while, but I'm super happy with how it's all come along. My goal is to get the car awesomely sorted for a December trackday and OS drags if they'll let me pest peoples eyes and ears with an Echo again. A++ would do hybrid motor doorts again 38 7 Quote
Roman Posted May 28, 2021 Author Posted May 28, 2021 No idea yet. Just hopefully whatever requires the smallest amount of notching out of the block. Quote
Yowzer Posted May 28, 2021 Posted May 28, 2021 Once again, AliExpress has you covered NZ$ 38.62 3%OFF | 1NZ 1NZFE engine connecting rod for Toyota AVANZA ECHO /ECHO VERSO VITZ YARIS 16V 1497cc 1.5L 1999- 13201-59057 1320159057 https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMxtAUd 2 Quote
ajg193 Posted May 28, 2021 Posted May 28, 2021 https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/product/toyota-yaris-echo-vitz-platz-belta-vios-1.5l-1nz-fe-140.8mm-connecting-rod-high-performance-4340-en24-h-beam-conrod.html $280 a set 2 1 Quote
Roman Posted May 29, 2021 Author Posted May 29, 2021 Haha, that's excellent! Still blows my mind how plentiful and cheap aftermarket parts are for this motor. Definitely not something I've been used to. 1 Quote
Popular Post Roman Posted May 29, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted May 29, 2021 I've had a look through another person's build who managed to use Prius pistons okay with same cams, and apparently VVTI working without any trouble. It looks like the important difference is that they used the earlier version of the engine with the 13:1 piston, not 13.4:1 So I tried to find some pictures of an early 1NZFXE piston. Aqua motor on the left, early prius motor on the right. Top of the picture is intake valve cutouts, tells the story! Can see that its definitely got much bigger valve cutouts and pretty much the whole piston shape is a bit different. It almost looks like the shape near the intake valve would give better flow around the valve perhaps at low lift near TDC? Although it would be a bit of a bummer to have to use 13:1 pistons instead of 13.4:1, (Even though both of these numbers are ridiculous) I guess if I machine the valve recesses on current pistons it might end up at that anyway. But with all of the hassle of getting that done. One additional benefit would be that I dont think the earlier motors used the troublesome low tension piston rings. If that's the case then it also solves a bunch of other potential long term issues. So, if starting this over. An earlier prius motor really would be the better option in every way. Dont need to drill the block and swap the sump to match up to the manual box. The engine mount bracket fits properly. The normal engine accessories can fit in their normal spots. Valves do not hit pistons. Mechanical water pump, so blowing a fuse doesnt blow your motor! So there's no real advantage to the 2012 motor at all. Apart from that I found one for cheap with exceptionally low km on it. 13 Quote
Yowzer Posted May 29, 2021 Posted May 29, 2021 Just carve out the pistons and send it. That 0.4 of compression isn't gonna make fuck all difference when it's already in the 13s, unless you plan on using South island spec 100+ octane. Which I know you are. But still, it'll be fine 4 Quote
Roman Posted May 30, 2021 Author Posted May 30, 2021 Nah I CBF with E85. Especially now that gull pulled out of having it at the pump. My thinking was that if new pistons are cheap enough its a lot easier to swap them than machine them. Especially if putting some other rods in. Especially if they have better piston rings. Either way, will figure it out! It will be interesting to see what the piston tops and combustion chambers look like after some high rpm carbon removal haha. And sensibe AFR with no EGR. Im just having shed wiring and some new concrete done this coming week, some time after that I'll whip the head back off and see whats going on. 9 Quote
Truenotch Posted May 30, 2021 Posted May 30, 2021 20 hours ago, Yowzer said: South island spec 100+ octane They're building an NPD station around the corner from my house at the moment. Looking forward to that 100+ octane goodness. 7 Quote
87creepin Posted May 30, 2021 Posted May 30, 2021 Can you elaborate on the aftermarket support for these engines pls? Asking for a friend. Quote
Roman Posted May 31, 2021 Author Posted May 31, 2021 22 hours ago, 87creepin said: Can you elaborate on the aftermarket support for these engines pls? Asking for a friend. Basically, because it was a motor released in America it's got a big aftermarket compared to something like beams 3SGE which was only released in Japan. Like on Aliexpress you can buy anything up to and including a whole engine brand new. On Ebay there are cheap rods, pistons, turbo manifolds, etc. Cams and springs were expensive-ish but plenty of people have made big hp on factory cams with forced induction. Seriously just have a browse on Ebay under 1NZFE. There's so much stuff. At least compared to what I'm used to! 2 Quote
RUNAMUCK Posted May 31, 2021 Posted May 31, 2021 I must have missed it, What ECU are you running? Quote
Roman Posted May 31, 2021 Author Posted May 31, 2021 Link g4+ stolen from Carina. It already had 1nz triggers/vvti setup correctly in it as a selectable option. Too easy! 7 Quote
Popular Post Roman Posted June 10, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted June 10, 2021 Time to work on car stuff has been stretched a little thin, but have made some slow progress. Took the head off, and found yep, valves bent. But no other damage. Valve seats looked fine and so did pistons. Cool! So for now I'll just fix it up and drive without VVTI. I pulled the valves out of my 2NZ motor (same part number) and sent the head off down the road to the engine place to lap the valves in and refit the valve springs. Hopefully get it back by the weekend maybe. There was another Vitz RS at Zebra so I went and pinched another C56, hopefully this one is a little more enthusiastic about going into gear. I'm getting pretty good at pulling motor/box out of these things. It's much easier once you know the order of things. I will keep current box in for now, and fit LSD into this spare one and check all of the synchros in it while it's apart. If they're bad, I will pinch the ones from my standard Echo gearbox as that thing shifts gear wonderfully. Assuming they're the same. Also just before my valves went asplode, I bought these for some lols / traction. Two of the tyres are a bit chooched but will hopefully do a trackday or three with them on the rear. (that does hardly any work anyway) Havent tried them yet but should be a laugh. 16 1 Quote
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