bigfoot Posted May 2, 2021 Posted May 2, 2021 19 minutes ago, Roman said: Then one just popped up on Trademe so bought it. hopefully it isnt missing a UJ or something specific to the manual rack (probably is, and I'm stupid for buying this) " If modern cars are anything like my old crap, the p/s steering column may be a different length to allow for all the hydralic bits 2 Quote
kws Posted May 2, 2021 Posted May 2, 2021 Checking Partsouq, it looks like the "intermediate shaft" is different power/manual. https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Toyota&ssd=%24*KwE-ChsCOWJDYlNkOU0NHmZyUlVLOjU4OSs1B3cvfik2L1AqeXkkLjc4dnJ4Y2wVIGVvZG4pNj8mKjMyIy43KD85PTsqeXkuYi8wKTg4OTtnb2Vxc3xiaE1xKjY4ZTYtKDo9Pzk5ZXlrLC9jfy43KioFGhVNQCgnLC9na3dhZy5DSVs9PVglFBwKXkZbKSAtKH42eX0sY39nYCEqKjMyIy43KjNxAAAAAAP7h9E%24&vid=0&cid=2&uid=4535&q= It MIGHT be PN 4529752070 1 Quote
Roman Posted May 2, 2021 Author Posted May 2, 2021 20 minutes ago, bigfoot said: If modern cars are anything like my old crap, the p/s steering column may be a different length to allow for all the hydralic bits Yeah with the Carina, even swapping from a height adjustable column to one that isnt, absolutely bloody everything was different haha. It was also weird that my new gearbox had no speedo drive, just a blanking plate for it. But then thankfully it still had the nylon gear inside the box, so just plonked the other speedo drive in. It would have been a right bastard if that nylon inner gear wasnt there haha. It must run the speedo signal from the ABS unit on the NCP13 model. Maybe because with the big block 1500 motor you're doing too many hectic skids all of the time to rely on the front wheel speed as being accurate. 4 Quote
Roman Posted May 2, 2021 Author Posted May 2, 2021 2 minutes ago, kws said: Checking Partsouq, it looks like the "intermediate shaft" is different power/manual. https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Toyota&ssd=%24*KwE-ChsCOWJDYlNkOU0NHmZyUlVLOjU4OSs1B3cvfik2L1AqeXkkLjc4dnJ4Y2wVIGVvZG4pNj8mKjMyIy43KD85PTsqeXkuYi8wKTg4OTtnb2Vxc3xiaE1xKjY4ZTYtKDo9Pzk5ZXlrLC9jfy43KioFGhVNQCgnLC9na3dhZy5DSVs9PVglFBwKXkZbKSAtKH42eX0sY39nYCEqKjMyIy43KjNxAAAAAAP7h9E%24&vid=0&cid=2&uid=4535&q= It MIGHT be PN 4529752070 Thanks, I had a look on some EPC sites but couldnt find a diagram like that. I'll call the wrecker and see if they've got the rest of the car there still. What's the bet that sensing my desperation this part now costs $600 haha. 2 Quote
Roman Posted May 2, 2021 Author Posted May 2, 2021 Worst case scenario looks like can get one from Ebay. But it will be annoying if this holds things up, cant really put the motor and box back in until the rack situation is sorted.https://www.ebay.com/i/332862014592?chn=ps EDIT: It looks like later model cars that use the electric assisted column instead of a PS rack, some of them use that same intermediate shaft. Might be able to find something at pick a part. phew. Quote
kws Posted May 2, 2021 Posted May 2, 2021 https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4529752020 Maybe an option. Partsouq for that matter is showing 1x of the supersession 4529752070 available too. 1 Quote
Roman Posted May 2, 2021 Author Posted May 2, 2021 Looks like this might have it... will see if I can go have a look this week.http://pickapart.co.nz/eziparts/Display_Vehicle.asp?PriceListID=0&VehicleID=11941&$Location=112105099107097112097114116099111110122&LocationID=4&VehicleDesc=Toyota NCP81 But what an absolute wanker of a part to have to try get out. 2 Quote
Popular Post Roman Posted May 3, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted May 3, 2021 So more fails. My understanding was that if you swap the sump over, all of the bolt holes line up to the gearbox. But what it means is "At least the bottom half will line up" because literally nothing lines up to the engine block It looks like the best compromise is to drill the block. This means all of the bolts will work except for that center top one, which I guess is good enough. It's pretty meaty at the places I've drilled it. And yeah I literally just used a drill, thug life Ahhh well, still making progress I guess. Just need to file out one of the holes a little bigger then I'll have it all bolted up as good as it's ever going to get. Luckily the dowels that were in the motor came out super easily, it turns out that there is a position for dowels that's common to both the gearbox and motor. So that puts my mind at ease for making sure the clutch is aligned to the output shaft correctly, even if my bolts situation is yuck. 17 1 Quote
h4nd Posted May 3, 2021 Posted May 3, 2021 On 23/04/2021 at 02:19, Roman said: The next shape along (ncp91) has a non ps rack because electrically assisted steering column. Theres no electric PS from this generation (apart from Prius). But I think it runs the pump from the higher voltage battery not 12v. Hmmm but maybe its worth checking. There are poverty spec echos with non PS racks but ive never come across one before. I hear a rumour that MB have electric power steering pump in these? http://www.pickapart.co.nz/eziparts/Display_Vehicles.asp?MakeID=0&SeriesID=6280&LocationID=2&VehicleDesc=Mercedes-Benz 160 1 Quote
Raizer Posted May 3, 2021 Posted May 3, 2021 41 minutes ago, h4nd said: I hear a rumour that MB have electric power steering pump in these? http://www.pickapart.co.nz/eziparts/Display_Vehicles.asp?MakeID=0&SeriesID=6280&LocationID=2&VehicleDesc=Mercedes-Benz 160 1 Quote
Popular Post Roman Posted May 4, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted May 4, 2021 Okay so I managed to find a manual rack car at pick a part. All it cost was 50 swear words, catching hepatitis from crawling over busted glass and about 20 bucks. Not bad. (Also got the rubber boot that goes over it) my manual rack turned up in the post some time today as well so im good to go. Its a big dick punch working on anything in the vicinity of the power steer so im happy to be rid of it. Then ive just been burning the midnight oil taking this gearbox off and on about 20 times to confirm bolt hole stuff and make sure it all goes together nicely. I still need to file one of the holes a little more, then it will be about ready to chuck back in. Hopefully fire up on the weekend or earlier. Im glad the steering situation was easily resolved, because it was becoming disheartening to think getting the motor back in would see significant delays. 32 1 Quote
Popular Post Roman Posted May 5, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted May 5, 2021 I got all of the bellhousing stuff sorted, got the manual rack in (I have to remember to do up bolts on the steering column...) Ends up losing about 5kg with the non PS rack and no pump. Then I got the engine mostly in but there's some weird shit going on with engine mounts on the engine side. (The other two are on the gearbox) The steel mount part on the Prius block is a different shape to the 2NZ one, so I cant swap them over. I am hoping this is because the Prius block uses a 1NZ specific mount that's different to 2NZ one, meaning I just need the different rubber mount and it'll work. But the mount is wanting to sit too far forward currently, by maybe 20-30mm. So it's not sitting in it's proper spot yet, but happy to have it in the engine bay at least. It's actually been pretty easy to work on, a sideways engine isnt nearly as shit as I remember from MR2 ownership. Also I think I damaged the clutch hose so might need to go find a replacement. More hurdles but still making good progress! I think I'm still hopefully on track for engine start on the weekend. To Do list for first fire up: -Sort engine mounts -2 longer bolts and nuts needed for bellhousing -fit starter motor and battery -fill gearbox oil -fill engine oil -Fit CV rack boots properly -fit radiator/hoses/add coolant -EWP wiring -fit intake and shitty exhaust manifold -Setup new base tune file for 1500cc and 2ZZ injectors. 23 Quote
Popular Post Roman Posted May 5, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted May 5, 2021 Okay soooo "The other guy" that did this, looks like he's used the earlier engine bracket, but this means one of the bloody bolt holes doesnt line up (again) Notice how on mine the bolt thats out of line faces "up" On this other same motor, faces "down" (So must be standard 1NZ bracket) There are different part numbers between 1NZ and 2NZ brackets for this, so I dont think my existing one will work. EDIT: Yeah definitely no chance of 2NZ one working, need to get a standard 1NZFE Bracket 14 Quote
Popular Post Roman Posted May 10, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted May 10, 2021 I Zebra'd a new engine mount and also put the factory exhaust manifold back on, as the other one was leaking horrifically from everywhere. Then did a bunch of other things and got it fired up! Pretty chuffed with that, it's a nice feeling to not have it all blow up immediately. I reckon it's gonna be pretty rowdy with these cams haha. I then mucked around for ages and bodged together water and heater lines, filled it up with coolant, then.... fucked up. Despite my previous efforts I managed to wire the waterpump backwards and I think I let the smoke out. I fixed the wiring but now it doesnt work. Will be lame if I have to buy a new one, as they cost as much as this bloody engine did haha. Depending on the motor type I might just be able to bodge this one to bypass the variable speed and just run it full speed full time. Dunno. Aside from this. I really need to pull the wiring loom apart a bit, because currently the alternator wiring is baked into the loom up top, but it needs to move down lower. Also because the block is taller, my trumpets hit the bonnet now. So will need to make some new ones. However will all 3 of the polyurethane mounts in, it's now super rigidly mounted. So I can hopefully push it close to the available space without issues. But it was awesome to get it fired up anyway. I'm still a few tasks away from being able to drive it, if the water pump isnt fixable it'll be next month that I can buy a replacement. 36 Quote
ajg193 Posted May 16, 2021 Posted May 16, 2021 A friend sent me this picture from trademe. Looks like a setup that would suit your 180 hp target beautifully 2 Quote
Popular Post Roman Posted May 17, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted May 17, 2021 Nice, they probably fit a bit better than the 4AGE ones too. Looks like it has e-throttle? Dreamy. Progress has been slow, it's taken heaps of time to pick the loom apart. Which was mainly just to make the low mount alternator work. But I pulled a bunch of the wiring back through the firewall that's now unnecessary (MAF, IACV, etc) The wiring is still a bit grotty but the motor runs. I didnt fix the old water pump, a brand new one was only $150 so just paid the idiot tax. Good peace of mind to have a brand new one too I guess. Then I've had a few coolant leaks to sort out, nothing tricky but just annoying and time consuming.@Stu is an absolute GC and made me an alternator bracket, just waiting on courier to arrive with it. Exciting! Something funny though, I thought I'd just try get everything lined up and working with the plastic bracket in the meantime. But the alternator wouldnt run... I spent a bit of time troubleshooting before realizing that the alternator usually grounds itself through it's bracket which is currently plastic haha. Hopefully take it for its first drive later this week. The steering is a bit heavy with no PS at low speeds. But I guess I could retrofit the electric assist if it gets tiresome. Or just stop being a wuss. 19 1 Quote
Popular Post Roman Posted May 19, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted May 19, 2021 More frustrations The StuScience(TM) Alternator bracket turned up and worked perfectly! So I got the alternator working fine. So I could run the car for longer and take it around the block. The gearbox isnt shifting very well, I suspected air still in the clutch line but bled it again and same deal. So the gearbox might be a bit stuffed perhaps. It's fine when in gear just very clunky shifting. Maybe there were some other parts that are also different with the different box. Will do some homework. Also I'm getting a crazy amount of trigger errors, the ECU thinks the RPM is spiking high. I'm not sure why yet. It's possible I've upset something with my wiring butchery. Or maybe the alternator being close to the crank trigger is causing interference. Or maybe it's big cams/stiff springs/light flywheel causing some trouble. Not sure yet. It's an annoying issue to troubleshoot because there are clear symptoms but not a clear link to the cause. So as frustrating as it is, I just need to keep eliminating possibilities. The trigger scope results look fine, nothing crazy going on. In any case I was happy to go for a bit of a drive around the block, even though its running like crap. When it's not having trigger errors its good though, definitely feels way different ratios with that new box. 4th gear feels like what 2nd or 3rd used to haha. It might be a good idea to ditch my bodged together loom adapter, now that there's no chance of reverting to the factory ECU. Which is a fun-ish job but just annoying it'll take more time. Ahh well! 20 Quote
Popular Post keltik Posted May 19, 2021 Popular Post Posted May 19, 2021 On the bright side, it might result in more posts in this thread - and I'm OK with that. 29 1 14 Quote
Popular Post Roman Posted May 19, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted May 19, 2021 Okay so last night I had a good triple check through my settings and I think I must have had some filtering set incorrectly on the triggers... As this morning it's working fine So thought I'd just see if it goes okay Yes, yes it does Currently hardly any ignition timing, no vvti setup, no trumpets on it. But it bloody honks along and sounds glorious! Super stoked! 37 Quote
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