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Except too spendy and probably half decently engineered.

I want a Tumeke spec broken Chinese scoot with badly attached diesel chugger (+t?) 

600ccScoot.jpg

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8 hours ago, Seedy Al said:

I know they were doing one for a 1kz but were struggling to get shims big enough to accommodate. So thats something to consider if its shim style valves

Would be for my td27t.(push rod) want to see how far I can push the little bastard before it pops

Also are td27 and td42 valves the same tension and size?

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come up with a grind and do it. 

plenty of dudes have done td42s and shit

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What's the go with replacing injectors, worth getting a refurbished (and slightly improved apparently) set over cheap new ones?

There's a place in Kiapoi that do "upgraded refurbished injectors" for what seems like a decent price.

 

Sitting at the lights the other day I got the familiar rough idle back, but instead of a bit of excessive black smoke it was accompanied by extreme amounts of white smoke and a strong raw diesel smell, any touch on the throttle stopped it and after a few minutes on the motorway it stopped again.

Thinking I've got a sticky/dirty injector (s).

 

1kzte, not using coolant, runs well most of the time, fuel consumption has been getting worse recently.

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This may or may not be applicable/helpful for your model van. 

I once looked at (I think) an import 1KZ Prado that'd run a bit hairy at idle, and behaved kinda like over fueling at idle only. Open the throttle, would make power, boost, no smoke, great!

Throttle back to 0% and the smoke would start, rough idle etc. Intermittent of course.

To me it had to be either not enough air or too much fuel, I got all confused and spent a long time looking for a fuelling issue. 

Turns out on this spec of 1KZ, the throttle body is meant to be 100% closed at 0% idle, with a bypass throttle body that is vacuum actuated open and closed to give manifold vacuum and make EGR etc work. Let go of the throttle, bypass butterfly gets turned shut, when engine gets down to idle, its meant to open up. Carbon build up in manifold was making it stick shut sometimes and choke out the intake at idle but not stall it somehow. 

It was a while ago, and I'm probably not remembering things right, and this might not even be right for your 1KZ but maybe get some pics of your intake if you can?

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2 hours ago, Giant said:

Would be for my td27t.(push rod) want to see how far I can push the little bastard before it pops

Also are td27 and td42 valves the same tension and size?

I drove a Terrano once that went surprisingly well.  The owner had ported the head as well as usual exhaust and more boost etc

He said the factory exhaust port is quite restrictive 

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1 hour ago, cletus said:

I drove a Terrano once that went surprisingly well.  The owner had ported the head as well as usual exhaust and more boost etc

He said the factory exhaust port is quite restrictive 

The dump pipe is also pretty bad. It's a right angle bend

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@johnnyfive that actually makes a lot of sense, there is a few vacuum actuators etc on the intake and throttle body etc, will take some pics in the morning.

I've been meaning to try out running a can of diesel intake/egr cleaner through it for a while, would pull the intake but I can't afford to have the van off the road long.

41B3hbkopkL._AC_SY400_.jpg

 

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Try some intake cleaner tbh. Worst that can happen is epic smoke screen good times and you end up pulling injectors Getting them upgraded and disconnecting the wastegate 

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4 hours ago, Raizer said:

What's the go with replacing injectors, worth getting a refurbished (and slightly improved apparently) set over cheap new ones?

There's a place in Kiapoi that do "upgraded refurbished injectors" for what seems like a decent price.

 

Sitting at the lights the other day I got the familiar rough idle back, but instead of a bit of excessive black smoke it was accompanied by extreme amounts of white smoke and a strong raw diesel smell, any touch on the throttle stopped it and after a few minutes on the motorway it stopped again.

Thinking I've got a sticky/dirty injector (s).

 

1kzte, not using coolant, runs well most of the time, fuel consumption has been getting worse recently.

Pull your intake system apart and clean out the carbon chockablock that's formed.

Next, blank off the EGR so it doesn't happen again.

Then get your radiator flushed and replace the viscous fan hub.

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Sweet, might just have to bite the bullet and do it properly at some point soon.

What's your thought on removing the throttle body from the system altogether?

Have been told by a couple of Surf owners that it's only there for the EGR so it might as well be deleted at the same time, was thinking of just removing the butterflys and shaft then capping the holes to keep the boost in.

 

Both upper and lower radiators are only about 2 years old so hopefully won't need to be flushed out though.

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Does anyone have a 6.2 or 6.5 chev diesel hanging around? Im having thoughts about re powering the van 

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11 hours ago, Raizer said:

Sweet, might just have to bite the bullet and do it properly at some point soon.

What's your thought on removing the throttle body from the system altogether?

Have been told by a couple of Surf owners that it's only there for the EGR so it might as well be deleted at the same time, was thinking of just removing the butterflys and shaft then capping the holes to keep the boost in.

 

Both upper and lower radiators are only about 2 years old so hopefully won't need to be flushed out though.

 

When I blocked my egr I just put a ball bearing in one of the vacuum hoses, mine's the full electronic model so if you fuck with it too much it'll throw errors..

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21 hours ago, Raizer said:

What's the go with replacing injectors, worth getting a refurbished (and slightly improved apparently) set over cheap new ones?

There's a place in Kiapoi that do "upgraded refurbished injectors" for what seems like a decent price.

first job i do when buying a diesel, is to whip them out and get the spray pattern checked.

more power and less fuel consumption than if they are sticky/worn etc.

i usually pay around $100-130 per injector for rebuild.. depending on the nozzle

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How do the tacho in ditself cars work? I know a guy with a laurel motor in his car that needs a tachometer.  And I know a guy wrecking a laurel with a Rev counter. Rather than embarking down a snipe hunt to see how it works, I thought I'd ask the OS hive mind. 

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Old ones run off the back of the alternator modern prob run off the computer 

laurel is prob off alternator it will have a terminal marked tach if it does

 

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6 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

will that work on ANY aftermarket tacho ?

my povo spec cruiser dosn't have one factory, and would ideally like one but the full VDO set-up that runs off alternator is hella spendy , and i have working petrol tachos sitting unused

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